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Thread: Wavetrac LSD Install in E39 540. Partial DIY with Pics

  1. #1
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    Wavetrac LSD Install in E39 540. Partial DIY with Pics

    I wanted to get LSD for this car for a while. I was very leery of the used M5 units at this age so I went the Wavetrac route when I saw a decent sale. The Getrag 420 has a pretty low first gear, so I felt good staying with the 2.81 gears. Top end cruise rpm stays nice and low.


    1 Wavetrac.jpg2 Wavetrac.jpg


    This is not a complete DIY, but covers most of the job in some detail. I used some other great diff threads (Topaz540 and others), my Bently, and various web searches. The job is not too bad with a few special tools. Took me two days taking my time. I am going into the job assuming I will not need to touch the pinion at all and that my stock carrier bearing snap rings will yield the correct gear lash. If you need to mess with the pinion, you will need to set pinion depth and verify gear pattern. A more involved job. If stock snap rings do not yield good lash, then you need to source new ones. Mine worked out fine, and so do most from what I read. Gear pattern should be very close to stock if the lash is very close to stock and the pinion depth is not touched.

    Special Tools: Dial indicator with Magnetic Stand, Bearing Puller, Really Large Snap Ring Pliers. All the rest was standard stuff.

    I suggest you follow some other DIY's on Diff R&R, but here are the basics:
    1) Remove exhaust. Some don't, but I can take it off in 15 minutes these days. I think its worth having the space.
    2) Unbolt rear Drive Shaft and Axle half Shafts CV joints from Diff. Be careful not to strip the E Torx bolts on Axles. I almost stripped one. Remove axles.
    3) Unbolt front and rear diff support bolts. 3 total. The one rear one is tight. I used a vice grip on a socket to hold it. Leave bolts in, but loose.
    4) Support diff with jack and secure. Remove diff bolts and partially lower diff. Move reward enough to disconnect DS CV joint. Cover CV with bag.
    5) Lower and drag out.
    6) De-grease and wash diff unit very good. Don't want to open it up when dirty. Drain the old fluid out.
    7) Pop out the output flanges. Takes a little force. Remove output seals and then unbolt rear cover.

    4 Seal Pull.jpg


    3 Initial Dissasembly.jpg


    8) Check the initial gear lash. Set up dial indicator as close to tangential as possible. Rotate ring rear and measure lash. Mine had 0.003" of lash. Spec is 0.0025" to 0.0055" from what i could find.




    Continued

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    Part 2

    Gear Lash

    6 AsFound 1.jpg

    7 AsFound 2.jpg



    9) Remove bearing retaining snap rings. These mothers are strong. You need a large snap ring pliers for these. Critical: Be careful to mark and segregate left and right snap rings, bearings, and races. Each ring has a special thickness to set the bearing preload and also the gear lash. Remove the outer bearing races. These just slide out. Be careful to not ding the bearings or the gears as the carrier will be loose at this point.

    8 Snap Ring.jpg



    10) Remove the carrier. Tilt and twist it to get it out of the case.

    9 Carrier Removal.jpg

    11) Remove ring gear bolts using impact gun.

    10 Ring Gear Removal.jpg

    Continued

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    Part 3

    12) Carefully drive ring gear off of carrier using a brass drift. It’s on there with a snug press fit, but comes off without too much hassle. Heating the ring lightly may make the job go easier, but I did not need to. If doing this again, I would switch step 11 and 12 and remove the bearings first.

    11 Ring Gear Off.jpg


    Ring Gear still looks like new at 143K miles.

    12 Ring Gear Detail.jpg


    13) Remove bearing using a puller. I ended up trying the standard type large bearing pullers, but the inner part was touching the cage, so I switched to the two jaw puller. I used a pipe cap to push against. Bearings come off without too much hassle. Again light heat may help here, but I did not need it.

    13 Bearing Pull.jpg

    14) Clean up. Degrease and clean ring gear, ring gear bolts (some buy new ones, I re-used my old ones), bearings, races, and snap rings. Wipe clean inside of gear case and bearing holes. Inside of case is nicely coated with some epoxy or something.

    15) Wavetrac ready.


    14 Wavetrac Ready.jpg


    16) Install ring gear. Use a ring gear bolt to ensure gear is aligned with bolt holes. Bolt will a tad short for this, but it’s doable. I suggest to get a few M12 x 1.5 x 35 mm long bolts to assist to get the ring gear install started. Tap with a brass drift or non-marring hammer can help. Use bolts to evenly pull the ring onto the carrier. Be careful not to cock it. Heating the ring gear in a 200 degree oven may help here, but I did not need it. The Wavetrac has some flats on the right side to hold the carrier in a padded vise while you tighten it. I put red locktite and went to 110 Ft-Lbs. I read that’s what others have done with success. These are grade 12.9 bolts and are very strong. Spec is 100 n-m plus 50 degrees for the bolts. I did not follow this.

    17) Install bearings. I preheated these in a 200 degree oven to help. I used an appropriate sized socket to carefully drive them onto the carrier. Do not push on the cage or bearings, just the inner race. They tapped right on.


    15 Wavetrac Done.jpg


    Continued

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    Part 4 of 4

    18) Carefully install the completed carrier into the diff case. Be careful to not ding the bearings or gears. Hold the carrier into position while you insert the outer races. This will hold the carrier into the proper position. Insert the snap rings. Be sure which is left and which is right.

    16 Snap Ring Installed.jpg


    19) Check gear lash, same as step 8. I got 0.004” of lash. Perfect!

    18 As Left 2.jpg


    If yours is less than 0.0025” or greater than 0.0055”, then you will likely need to stop, figure out what thickness snap rings are needed, get the new rings, and see where your are. Wavetrac says they have these in their shop and can overnight if needed. There may be other sources (diffsonline). This is the only way to move the ring gear closer or farther (left/right) from the pinion. I’m not sure how to calculate the required thicknesses, but I know the total snap ring thickness (left + right) should be the same as what you started with. This sets the bearing preload. Assuming the stock preload is good. From what I’ve read, BMW carriers are pretty consistent on the machining, and so is the Wavetrac. This is why most installs go in without lash issues. I am happy where mine ended up.


    20) Apply thin bead of sealant and install rear cover. Snug up bolts, but don’t torque yet. Let sealant cure, then torque fully. Install new output shaft seals and pop in the shafts. Pre lube with gear oil.

    19 Cover Sealer.jpg

    21) Paint it up to show you actually did something down there. I like the way this grey looks.

    20 Painted.jpg


    22) Install in reverse order. Most is straightforward. An extra set of hands is useful to guide in the diff and align the dive shaft. You can remove the heat shield and center bearing to get the driveshaft out of the way, but it’s not needed.
    Some notes:
    Wipe clean and re-grease drive shaft CV joint. Install a new gasket in the joint. I used a NLGI #2 fully synthetic grease made for CV joints. Stuff a load of it into the diff input flange.
    When tightening the axle bolts, its helpful to have another person set and release the parking brake as you go around.
    Consult Bently or TIS for torques. Be carefull on the e torx axle bolts.
    Level the car and fill with 75-90 GL. Make sure the oil does not have any limited slip additives.


    Thoughts: Adding LSD to the SC’d 540 is awesome. The rear end feels so much more planted now. Traction control is staying off a lot more and I can really lay the power down.
    I like how this torsen style lsd feels so far. I am used to the clutch style lsd’s and this is a bit different. On the clutch styles that I have driven, the rear wheels seemed to scrub more in the turns under hard power. This diff allows each wheel to supply the power to the ground, but still allows some variances in the wheel speeds around the turns. Less scrub it seems. These are just early observations. I need some time on it for a full review. So far, so good. No funny sounds or vibrations in the cabin!
    All Done. Also- setting my new Vibrant Ultra quiet resonator into position to measure for mandrel bends/pipe I need to buy.

    21 Installed.jpg



    I’m just happy the stock shims worked out and I can get onto the next project. Headers and full exhaust. Time to get my welding skills back. Been a long while.
    That’s it.
    Last edited by philly98540; 09-15-2014 at 05:02 PM.

  5. #5
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    Looks good Philly, nice post. Looks like we have the same IR air gan and dial indicator.
    Just got back for the GTO LS1 transplant to the E38, engine mounts need to be modified. The ones he bought aren't right.
    Haven't done much with my M5 bumper yet.

  6. #6
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    Great post Philly. Glad the install went well.

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    Very cool. Glad it worked out smoothly.


    Regarding the Vibrant Resonator (it seems a lot of people are using it). Besides weight reduction, what are the benefits over the stock y resonator?

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    Epic write up Chris! Nicely done, both on the job and the writeup. I would totally do one of these myself now. I regret not doing some bling paint to mine when it was out, but i have that spare so hell i suppose i could build another up.... I thought about at least doing the cover while it was off and i soda blasted that but then i didnt want powder or paint to inhibit whatever minor cooling happens viathe finned cover.

    Agreed on the clutch v "torque biasing" style - my M3 def squeals the tire a bit on tight turns while the quaife does not. Also seems to me at least just from street driving that under power the geared type has more of an understeer inducing "straighten car out" effect (at least until you break traction) than the clutch type which seems more handling neutral. This is not exactly a bad thing, makes on-power corner exits very tidy and controlled when you get used to how to incorporate it.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Looks good Philly, nice post. Looks like we have the same IR air gan and dial indicator.
    Just got back for the GTO LS1 transplant to the E38, engine mounts need to be modified. The ones he bought aren't right.
    Haven't done much with my M5 bumper yet.
    Thanks Jim. I love that IR gun! I think it got to be almost 30 years old by now. Good luck with the LS1 job. I'm looking forward to seeing your M5 bumper spray job. I'm sure you found the correct bonding primer and are gearing up for some painting.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Schitzo View Post
    Great post Philly. Glad the install went well.
    Thanks!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by GreenTiger View Post
    Very cool. Glad it worked out smoothly.


    Regarding the Vibrant Resonator (it seems a lot of people are using it). Besides weight reduction, what are the benefits over the stock y resonator?
    On the exhaust, I'm shooting to reduce overall backpressure. I'm hoping this Ultaquiet resonator helps keep the noise down some vs. a simple bullet type res. For now, I am re-using my 3" magnaflow muffler in the back. I think its going to sound really good, but it may be a bit too loud when done. If so, I am eyeing up the Dynomax VT muffler as a possible solution. It has a spring flap thing to reduce sound at low loads, then opens up. I think a lot of the new BMW's have this flap muffler design.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Epic write up Chris! Nicely done, both on the job and the writeup. I would totally do one of these myself now. I regret not doing some bling paint to mine when it was out, but i have that spare so hell i suppose i could build another up.... I thought about at least doing the cover while it was off and i soda blasted that but then i didnt want powder or paint to inhibit whatever minor cooling happens viathe finned cover.

    Agreed on the clutch v "torque biasing" style - my M3 def squeals the tire a bit on tight turns while the quaife does not. Also seems to me at least just from street driving that under power the geared type has more of an understeer inducing "straighten car out" effect (at least until you break traction) than the clutch type which seems more handling neutral. This is not exactly a bad thing, makes on-power corner exits very tidy and controlled when you get used to how to incorporate it.
    Thanks JC!! I was tentative going in, but once I saw the lash was good, all the pressure was off. Big Whew!!

    Bling paint would be gold like Topaz' job. Grey, er, not so blingy. I did a very light coat on the rear cover so cooling is not hurt too bad. I don't think torsen diffs create as much heat as clutch type, but who knows...

    Looking for some good miles ahead on this. I'll post up some more comments later.
    Great upgrade for any 540.

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    Great job and thanks for posting Philly.

    It would be great if you can give some review later.
    I'm interested to hear how does it perform and does it shudder when you're on it at tight corners etc..

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    Beautiful write up.

    How is it working for you? What are the specs on it? It seems like a bargain at some. $1,100!

    I currently run Jim Blanton 3.46 LSD. I couldn't be happier, aside from 80mph/3,200rpm and the $$ : )
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    On the exhaust, I'm shooting to reduce overall backpressure. I'm hoping this Ultaquiet resonator helps keep the noise down some vs. a simple bullet type res. For now, I am re-using my 3" magnaflow muffler in the back. I think its going to sound really good, but it may be a bit too loud when done. If so, I am eyeing up the Dynomax VT muffler as a possible solution. It has a spring flap thing to reduce sound at low loads, then opens up. I think a lot of the new BMW's have this flap muffler design.
    Interesting. Didn't know the Y-res was a source of restriction. Interested in videos of the new setup!

  13. #13
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    I do have a halfway decent selection of those available. I also have thick ones that you can machine down until you get where you need, if you are out of adjustment.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    18) Carefully install the completed carrier into the diff case. Be careful to not ding the bearings or gears. Hold the carrier into position while you insert the outer races. This will hold the carrier into the proper position. Insert the snap rings. Be sure which is left and which is right.

    16 Snap Ring Installed.jpg


    19) Check gear lash, same as step 8. I got 0.004” of lash. Perfect!

    18 As Left 2.jpg


    If yours is less than 0.0025” or greater than 0.0055”, then you will likely need to stop, figure out what thickness snap rings are needed, get the new rings, and see where your are. Wavetrac says they have these in their shop and can overnight if needed. There may be other sources (diffsonline). This is the only way to move the ring gear closer or farther (left/right) from the pinion. I’m not sure how to calculate the required thicknesses, but I know the total snap ring thickness (left + right) should be the same as what you started with. This sets the bearing preload. Assuming the stock preload is good. From what I’ve read, BMW carriers are pretty consistent on the machining, and so is the Wavetrac. This is why most installs go in without lash issues. I am happy where mine ended up.


    20) Apply thin bead of sealant and install rear cover. Snug up bolts, but don’t torque yet. Let sealant cure, then torque fully. Install new output shaft seals and pop in the shafts. Pre lube with gear oil.

    19 Cover Sealer.jpg

    21) Paint it up to show you actually did something down there. I like the way this grey looks.

    20 Painted.jpg


    22) Install in reverse order. Most is straightforward. An extra set of hands is useful to guide in the diff and align the dive shaft. You can remove the heat shield and center bearing to get the driveshaft out of the way, but it’s not needed.
    Some notes:
    Wipe clean and re-grease drive shaft CV joint. Install a new gasket in the joint. I used a NLGI #2 fully synthetic grease made for CV joints. Stuff a load of it into the diff input flange.
    When tightening the axle bolts, its helpful to have another person set and release the parking brake as you go around.
    Consult Bently or TIS for torques. Be carefull on the e torx axle bolts.
    Level the car and fill with 75-90 GL. Make sure the oil does not have any limited slip additives.


    Thoughts: Adding LSD to the SC’d 540 is awesome. The rear end feels so much more planted now. Traction control is staying off a lot more and I can really lay the power down.
    I like how this torsen style lsd feels so far. I am used to the clutch style lsd’s and this is a bit different. On the clutch styles that I have driven, the rear wheels seemed to scrub more in the turns under hard power. This diff allows each wheel to supply the power to the ground, but still allows some variances in the wheel speeds around the turns. Less scrub it seems. These are just early observations. I need some time on it for a full review. So far, so good. No funny sounds or vibrations in the cabin!
    All Done. Also- setting my new Vibrant Ultra quiet resonator into position to measure for mandrel bends/pipe I need to buy.

    21 Installed.jpg



    I’m just happy the stock shims worked out and I can get onto the next project. Headers and full exhaust. Time to get my welding skills back. Been a long while.
    That’s it.
    I do have a halfway decent selection of those available. I also have thick ones that you can machine down until you get where you need, if you are out of adjustment.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
    Great job and thanks for posting Philly.

    It would be great if you can give some review later.
    I'm interested to hear how does it perform and does it shudder when you're on it at tight corners etc..
    Thanks! It's about time I gave a little back to this board for all the help it has given me. Maybe some will take the plunge now. Not too hard of a job and less costly than the M5 diff route. No clutch pack rebuilds, or driveshaft/axle mods needed.

    As of now, the diff feels really quite nice and smooth back there. Under tight turns under power, there is no shudder. I well try to remember to post another update in a few months.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by GreenTiger View Post
    Interesting. Didn't know the Y-res was a source of restriction. Interested in videos of the new setup!
    Not sure if there is either, but I did measure 10+ psi back pressure pre cats, and 4 psi post cats. But this at supercharger full power redline. Looking to change the whole exhaust to help this go down.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by bimas View Post
    Beautiful write up.

    How is it working for you? What are the specs on it? It seems like a bargain at some. $1,100!

    I currently run Jim Blanton 3.46 LSD. I couldn't be happier, aside from 80mph/3,200rpm and the $$ : )
    Works very good so far, but limited miles. Model number is in first post (see box label).

    Jim Blanton stuff is good, but too steep for me right now. Too many other projects on this car.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by diffsonline View Post
    I do have a halfway decent selection of those available. I also have thick ones that you can machine down until you get where you need, if you are out of adjustment.
    Thanks for confirming. I thought you had some. Can you add any detail on how to pick new snap ring thicknesses if the lash is off?

    Say lash is 0.009", and you want to get to 0.004", reduce right side snap ring 0.0xx mm, and add 0.0yy mmm to the left snap?

    - - - Updated - - -





    Update to DIY- I used Motul 3000 75w-90 synthetic gear lube. This is the recommended oil for the Wavetrac from their website.

  15. #15
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    Great job. Now to the headers and the beast is complete.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW540san View Post
    Great job. Now to the headers and the beast is complete.
    headers... and M5 steering box... and custom custom homebrew exhaust... yeah Philly's got a wicked backlog of projects.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW540san View Post
    Great job. Now to the headers and the beast is complete.
    Thanks Z!! Almost got the exhaust fingered out. I have my parts list of mandrel bends and tube ready to buy. Switching my MIG tank to trimix and getting some 308LSi wire. Got some new cut off wheels and abrasives. I'm close... I just hate going dual 2.75" to the HJS cats, then combining to just one 3" to the back. Just no damn space for duals on this this car without doing the major trunk mod... Uggg. I'm sure the single 3" will be fine with smooth bends and straight through resonator and muffler, but still bugs me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    headers... and M5 steering box... and custom custom homebrew exhaust... yeah Philly's got a wicked backlog of projects.
    ...and M5 front bar, and just picked up my set of fresh 275/35-18 A/S-3's on my style 65 square set up. The money is flowing out the door....
    GG- I'll sure be hitting you up for your expertise on the M5 box coding. You got that dialed!

    Loving this Wavetrac so far. First gear is back in style baby! Wham! the car scoots now. First was not all that useful before. Grabbing second full on is a jolt on a whole new level. Now I know what I was missing!

  18. #18
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    Damn Philly those are some sick mods you've done to your ride. When you can post a video of how she runs, supercharger, exhaust, and a launch or burnout to see the Wavetrac in action.

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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    Thanks Z!! Almost got the exhaust fingered out. I have my parts list of mandrel bends and tube ready to buy. Switching my MIG tank to trimix and getting some 308LSi wire. Got some new cut off wheels and abrasives. I'm close... I just hate going dual 2.75" to the HJS cats, then combining to just one 3" to the back. Just no damn space for duals on this this car without doing the major trunk mod... Uggg. I'm sure the single 3" will be fine with smooth bends and straight through resonator and muffler, but still bugs me.
    Single 3 should be adequate but I hear ya' on the duals. Which HJS are you running? Them some 'spensive kitties!

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mannyf540 View Post
    Damn Philly those are some sick mods you've done to your ride. When you can post a video of how she runs, supercharger, exhaust, and a launch or burnout to see the Wavetrac in action.
    I need to buy a GoPro and some car mounts! Maybe some day...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Schitzo View Post
    Single 3 should be adequate but I hear ya' on the duals. Which HJS are you running? Them some 'spensive kitties!
    Thanks for the confirmation on the 3". Just seems too small overall and a shame, sort of, to do all the work, and still its a single.

    Cats: I got similar ones to the HD 9095 0165's. I have a friend in the tuning biz who gets the HD cores at wholesale, they welded on the cones in his shop. I got a good deal and that helped me swallow getting the HJS vs some of the other metal ones out there. Still a bit too steep, but it will pass OBD2 all day long. Smile.

  21. #21
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    Hats off to your commitment. You won't believe this but as I told Jim, I've sold the headers. Damn X5 had to show up for sale and I couldn't pass on that deal. You know how much you're into with exhaust related stuff and I simply couldn't put all that money into crt that I have no plans going the FI. I'm still glad and proud that I helped get the best deal ever on SS headers.
    - - - Updated - - -
    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    Thanks Z!! Almost got the exhaust fingered out. I have my parts list of mandrel bends and tube ready to buy. Switching my MIG tank to trimix and getting some 308LSi wire. Got some new cut off wheels and abrasives. I'm close... I just hate going dual 2.75" to the HJS cats, then combining to just one 3" to the back. Just no damn space for duals on this this car without doing the major trunk mod... Uggg. I'm sure the single 3" will be fine with smooth bends and straight through resonator and muffler, but still bugs me.

    - - - Updated - - -



    ...and M5 front bar, and just picked up my set of fresh 275/35-18 A/S-3's on my style 65 square set up. The money is flowing out the door....
    GG- I'll sure be hitting you up for your expertise on the M5 box coding. You got that dialed!

    Loving this Wavetrac so far. First gear is back in style baby! Wham! the car scoots now. First was not all that useful before. Grabbing second full on is a jolt on a whole new level. Now I know what I was missing!

  22. #22
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    AndoverRockport MA & Intl
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    My Cars
    E46M3Cic E39.540iT E84X1
    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    ...and M5 front bar, and just picked up my set of fresh 275/35-18 A/S-3's on my style 65 square set up. The money is flowing out the door....
    A/S 3's? Yawn. Weak. i wanna see PSS at a minimum, son.

    (Points for the square though)

    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    .GG- I'll sure be hitting you up for your expertise on the M5 box coding. You got that dialed!
    Anything you need holmes. Looks like a few more mid-atl biz roadies in the cards, and if not i'm always up for a trip to see my sis down RVAE34's way... Let me know when yer ready. Im sure you will anyway...

    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    Loving this Wavetrac so far. First gear is back in style baby! Wham! the car scoots now. First was not all that useful before. Grabbing second full on is a jolt on a whole new level. Now I know what I was missing!
    Yeah ya do. Now ya see why ya liked my car so much...

    Quote Originally Posted by Schitzo View Post
    Single 3 should be adequate but I hear ya' on the duals. Which HJS are you running? Them some 'spensive kitties!
    Absolutes. Philly gots the Blagojevich golden kitties. Bastiche. Wont even share w his buds...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Lansdale, Pa
    Posts
    7,043
    My Cars
    98 540 6, SC'ed, 16psi
    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    A/S 3's? Yawn. Weak. i wanna see PSS at a minimum, son.

    (Points for the square though)
    Backhanded compliments accepted. Got em on last night. The fronts are just barely missing the strut tubes with the 3mm spacer. Like only 1mm of clearance! I hope the strut tubes don't start wearing. They do look nice! I do need this car as my daily, so A/S-3's are perfect. Maybe PSS next time...

    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Anything you need holmes. Looks like a few more mid-atl biz roadies in the cards, and if not i'm always up for a trip to see my sis down RVAE34's way... Let me know when yer ready. Im sure you will anyway...
    I sure will!!

    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Yeah ya do. Now ya see why ya liked my car so much...
    Aye! LSD is a very nice upgrade.

    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Absolutes. Philly gots the Blagojevich golden kitties. Bastiche. Wont even share w his buds...
    You know I would if I could!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BMW540san View Post
    Hats off to your commitment. You won't believe this but as I told Jim, I've sold the headers. Damn X5 had to show up for sale and I couldn't pass on that deal. You know how much you're into with exhaust related stuff and I simply couldn't put all that money into crt that I have no plans going the FI. I'm still glad and proud that I helped get the best deal ever on SS headers.
    - - - Updated - - -
    I understand Z. Lots of priorities in life, and you got to do what you got to do. Good luck with the X5.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    In the wood
    Posts
    3,858
    My Cars
    02-530 stick Blown
    Hey Chris, I'm too lazy to look through but where did you get your diff? Thanks man.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Tx.
    Posts
    4,133
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    02 bmw 540
    Mod bargains has a good deal on them sometimes.

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