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Thread: 96 BMW 328is LS1 to LS2 Conversion Bimerok

  1. #1
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    96 BMW 328is LS1 to LS2 Conversion Bimerok

    The parts are arriving, so I figured it is time to start a new thread about my new journey of converting my existing 1996 e36 LS1 swap to an LS2. I was asking myself, what is the reason for converting perfectly fine running LS1 swap to an LS2? Is there something wrong about my current set up? No. Is it not enough power for what the car is being used? No, it has plenty of that. Is there something that I don't like about my current set up that prompt me to start LS1 to LS2 conversion? The answer is No again.

    The reason why I'm doing the swap of my swap is because I wanted another project. The project that is not a very big undertaking and the one that would not require me to get another "toy". I wanted something fairly small in scope at this time that would still occupy me. Most importantly, I needed a project that would keep me from going insane from my work and have me thinking about something else after work I like my toy and the way it evolves, the way it's set up and wanted to make sure it stays and is not going anywhere.

    As always, I will try to take as many pictures as I can and answer as many questions as I can to make this as helpful thread as possible. Unlike the time of my first thread, now there are a lot of LSx swap posts since then and you can see what is being done by different fellow swappers, but I know every bit of information counts when it is your first swap.

    So finally I found a great deal on a 2005 LS2/T-56 out of GTO with only 34K miles. That officially started my new project. My current LS1/T56 is up for sale including some of the set up that will be a big help to someone who is thinking about e36 LS1 swap of their own including wiring. Here is the link to For Sale thread with more details on that.

    Right now my LS2 is sitting in the shop, waiting for the start of the project. It was a somewhat local deal and the best part it was still in the car and running. This gave me ability to come over to check it out, start the car and all. I got it obviously with all wiring, PCM and Accessories. The C1 connector for PCM to chassis interface and the DBW pedal connectors were all obtained with the full lengths of the wires and not as just short pigtails. Full intake with air box, driveshaft, 3 pedals, full clutch hydraulic with master cyl, etc. Also few parts that my cousin needed for his GTO, all came as part of the deal with this motor. Some of the stuff can be later sold to recoup some of the money. This is how it currently sits.







    Since I have already done LS2 swap before for my cousin, it won't be starting from scratch for me. It will be a lot easier since I should already know what to expect, what needs to be modified, wiring, etc... The mounting and the exhaust stuff should all still work for me without changes. It's the smaller stuff that needs to be modified when doing LS2. As soon as the motor got delivered, I went into parts gathering mode and they started to arrive a little by little. So as more parts arrive, I will be putting out more updates. Then once all of the parts I need and want to install arrive or when the current LS1/T56 sells (whichever is so sooner) I will start the removal process of my current set up and installation of the LS2.

    Last week I was out of town on work related trip, but when I got back, I had few boxes waiting for me. Always feels like a child during the New Years season



    The first thing that needs to happen is change of an Oil Pan from GTO style to an FBody style. Previously for my cousin's car we got just an Oil Pan and oil pick up tube then modified it along with the windage tray. This time around knowing this, I got the whole original GM Oil Pan Kit. It comes complete with Oil Pan, Gasket, new bolts, Dipstick and Tube, correct windage tray and oil pick up tube.





    Knowing the deficiencies of the GM oil pan in high G situations I decided to upgrade the oil pan baffle to Improved Racing piece with door traps. Read a lot of good reviews about it and it is a quality made aluminum piece. Also a lot lighter than stock steel that come with fbody pan.







    Removing the original oil pan baffle and installing the Improved Racing baffle was a straight forward and easy thing to do while your oil pan is in your hands and not on the car. All you do is unscrew seven 10mm bolts, lift the original baffle and drop the new one in. Screw the bolts back.





    Drop in the new pan baffle.


    Screw all of the bolts back and you're done.


    Since I had no problems and liked my set up, same as last time I got a brand new GM LS7 Clutch and Flywheel. The new slave cylinder is also ordered, but did not arrive yet.




    Another item that needs to be changed when using GTO style T56 is shifter cup that will let you convert back to fbody style shifter. So that arrived as well.


    And of course you need an fbody shifter itself instead of GTO that sits too far back. After reading some reviews, I went with MGW short shifter. The piece looks amazing. Great machining and stout construction. Anodized aluminum looks amazing. Should feel and function well.




    That's all for parts that currently arrived. Still waiting on some smaller items to be delivered such as clutch hydraulic lines and remote bleeder, few fittings, etc. I will be providing more updates as stuff appears and some progress is made...
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  2. #2
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    ahhh that baffle and shifter... too bad they will not be visible after the installation.

  3. #3
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    Let me know how you like your shifter...I'm still debating my Hurst in terms of how well it shifts. If you are looking for cheap mods to the ls2, the intake and tb can be ported for good gains. Apparently the ls2 intake was a step backwards in design and flows worse.this is why ls3 heads/intake work so well on this engine

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    ...there are a lot of LSx swap posts since then and you can see what is being done by different fellow swappers, but I know every bit of information counts when it is your first swap.
    Yep...thanks.

    Tipsy

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    Subscribed!

    Good luck!

    Doug


    '97 M3/4

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    Subscribed

  7. #7
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    I figured I would do a small update.

    Almost all of my parts that I was waiting for now arrived. I am now ready to start my swap from LS1 to LS2 pretty soon. So below are few more pictures of parts received (I know, not the most entertaining stuff )

    Few miscellaneous pins and water temperature connector.


    BMW Oil Pressure Switch for the dummy light and the water temperature sensor in all of its glory


    I decided to order a brand new set of ARP header bolts as the new OEM ones that I got for my LS1 swap few years back got all rusty.


    Here is a little Tachometer conversion box to be used with LS2 PCM. Fairly small and neat.



    One of the biggest parts debacles that I had to deal with was the stupid slave cylinder for my clutch. Last two LSx swaps that I did, there was no problems getting a new OEM AC Delco slave cylinder. This time around this was not the case. First one I ordered on ebay came in ACDelco original box with ACDelco and GM part numbers, but when I opened it, I knew right away that this was not an ACDelco slave. I've seen them few times before and knew how the part should look. So I sent it back to the seller for the refund and ate the return shipping.

    Second time around I decided to order it from RockAuto. Again going for ACDelco part and what do I get? Exact same ACDelco original box, with all the part numbers, but the same "other" brand clutch slave cylinder inside. Now being really pissed about it, I call RockAuto to see what is going on. The rep has told me that ACDelco has this practice, where if they are running low on parts or for any other reason, they are using third party parts and just throwing their warranty on it. Go figure.

    After some further research online, I figured that they are using brand called "Perfection Clutch" or "Duralast", which can be had a lot cheaper from your local Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone. Here is how it looks.




    Being really pissed off about not getting the part I was expecting the second time and sending it back and eating another return shipping charge I decided that the next option that I would go with would be Sachs. So I went ahead and ordered that from RockAuto. This time the part came directly from Sachs and I am glad that I went with this brand. It looks way better than ACDelco part or that "other" brand that ACDelco is using now. As you can see on the picture below, this one has way better design. There is a seal that rides along the center tube and the bearing wraps around, both of which helping to reduce dust contamination and penetration that these lave cylinders are known for. Also the bearing itself is made by SKF in Argentina.





    Now it was time to prepare the slave cylinder fittings for the clutch lines. Here is the original female fitting that is replaced with a male fitting that will accept the SS line



    The pressure line fitting is installed


    Now similar process for the remote clutch bleeder line. Unscrew the original type of bleeder and screw this fitting in


    Both fittings are installed into clutch slave


    Now just attach the lines on to the fittings and it is all ready to be installed with the new clutch



    This is all I have for now. If everything goes as planed the engine transplant should be starting in 1.5 weeks. However if time and schedule will permit, I might do some preliminary work over this or next weekend. The oil pan replacement and clutch replace would be the preliminary work that I would like to knock out before hand.

    As always, updates to come as more progress happens.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  8. #8
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    Just wondering where you got your supply side fitting for the slave cylinder?

    I've had two of those fittings from Speedway Motors that didn't fit the slave cylinder that came with my monster clutch kit. As far as I know it is an F-body slave cylinder. Not sure if my problem is with the fitting or with the slave cylinder.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ckpitt55 View Post
    Just wondering where you got your supply side fitting for the slave cylinder?

    I've had two of those fittings from Speedway Motors that didn't fit the slave cylinder that came with my monster clutch kit. As far as I know it is an F-body slave cylinder. Not sure if my problem is with the fitting or with the slave cylinder.
    +1 Part numbers for both slave fittings?

    Tipsy

  10. #10
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    The F-Body and GTO slave cylinders are the same. The only difference is the pressure line connector fitting.

    For the pressure line: Russell 641001 Clutch Hose Fitting -4AN. I got mine from eBay.

    The fitting for the remote bleeder: Aeroquip FCM2967. -4AN Hose Fitting to size 10mm X 1.5. I had one laying around from my previous swaps. Originally got it from HRPWorld.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the tip on the SACHS slave cylinder. That will be my next replacement.
    John
    E36 LS3

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maynor View Post
    Thanks for the tip on the SACHS slave cylinder. That will be my next replacement.
    No problem. Hopefully it will live up to the expectation
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  13. #13
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    Who'd you order you order your LS7 clutch kit from? I ordered a take-off LS2 waterpump from Scoggin Dickey. The price was right but the packaging left a bit to be desired. The box was torn and the pump was sticking out. I'm a bit reluctant to order from them again.

    Tipsy

  14. #14
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    I got it from GMPartsDirect.com

    The part number for the kit is: PKC6LS7CLUTCHKI

    Here is the direct link: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...KC6LS7CLUTCHKI
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    I got it from GMPartsDirect.com

    The part number for the kit is: PKC6LS7CLUTCHKI
    Thanks. I'll give them a try.

    Tipsy

  16. #16
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    The weather was beautiful this weekend, so I got some work done on the motor in preparation for a "big push" next week. Sunday headed to the shop and separated the transmission from the engine to put my new LS7 clutch, new slave with hydraulic lines, and oil pan/windage tray swap.

    Again, nothing too complicated, have done it quite a few times by now. On to the pictures...

    Transmission is separated


    Bellhousing is cleaned and new slave cylinder with hydraulic lines is installed


    When the clutch was removed from the engine, it looks as though it was just replaced. It looked almost brand new with almost as much material on the clutch disk as my new LS7 clutch. So if anyone is interested in almost new LS2 clutch, let me know I have it for sale as a complete package of Flywheel, Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate and pressure plate bolts.

    When the flywheel was out it revealed a nice 6.0L label The dirt that you see on the picture was from the oil pan gasket and was obviously all cleaned up prior to assembly....




    Anyway, next was replacing the pilot bearing. Initially we couldn't find the right bearing removal tool, so we tried to use the old packing grease method and clutch alignment tool, which worked many times before. For those who don't know, it is packing the opening of the bearing full with grease, than taking an alignment tool and do a quick hammer blow and the grease just pushes the bearing out. But in my case the bearing was in pretty tight in there and wouldn't even budge... After trying few more times, we finally decided to look through the unlikely drawers and finally found the correct bearing removal tool and did it a normal way. Mucho fun Here is another silly video of the process;




    Once we got done being silly with the pilot bearing and cleaning that mess up, the new LS7 clutch went on. Here you can see the flywheel installed and torqued


    The clutch disk and pressure plate installed and torqued


    The only thing left for the day was the oil pan swap, so off the GTO pan go


    Then LS2 windage tray and oil pickup tube are unbolted


    Engine looks nice and super clean inside


    Now the F-Body windage tray and oil pick up tube are bolted on. Notice the difference between LS2 GTO and F-Body, where the latter one is a little bit shorter and has provision for oil pickup to be mounted on the other side from where GTO style used to mount. Shorter windage tray will be compensated by the F-Body oil pan design that sits really close in that section.


    And finally the new F-Body oil pan is being put in. When doing oil pan on these engines, don't forget to put dab of silicon in 4 areas where front and rear covers meet the block.


    Next week I'm hoping to start taking my LS1 engine out and putting this one in...
    Last edited by bimerok; 08-02-2015 at 09:37 PM.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  17. #17
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    Lookin good! Have you done any upgrades to the trans internals or plan to?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    Lookin good! Have you done any upgrades to the trans internals or plan to?
    No upgrades to the trans. internals and not planning on any. I don't see a reason for that.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  19. #19
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    Time for another update...

    Since I'm missing out on most of the track fun this season so far due to this project, I couldn't resist and still go out on the track and at least run (literally) NJMP Thunderbolt

    Just after Turn 1.


    Before the bridge near the straight away. Check out that camber LOL


    Every third Thursday of the month NJMP has non-motorized event where you can walk, run, roller skate, etc on the track. Good healthy activity that let's you see that rambler strip up close

    Ok, that was Thursday, now update from this Saturday. Well, yesterday I finally started disassembling everything and taking out the outgoing LS1. I slowly started at around 11:30 or 12 o'clock. Got the car on the lift and bumper, exhaust, drive shaft started to come off..





    Then slowly moved to remove more of the fascia to open up the area for the harder part, which is removing the headers from the engine...








    While everything was removed and disconnected, I labeled every wire so that the new owner of the engine would know where it goes and what it is used for. Also anything I disconnected on the chassis I also labeled. Even though it is not too complicated and I've done it several times before, having everything labeled makes re-assembly a lot quicker.

    The task of removing headers from the engine is not pictured as it was a little time consuming and involved task. They are tight fit and it takes some magic to get to all bolt and shuffle engine around to get them in or out... So once they were removed, and double checking that nothing else left connected to the motor the engine was ready to come out.



    Now a little pull and the beast is out...







    Here is just a random picture of the exhaust and some of the front fascia parts...




    That concluded the Saturday for me. Sometimes today, I will get back to the shop and start on the stage 2, which is installing the LS2... More updates to follow...
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  20. #20
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    Lift = jealous.

    Tipsy

  21. #21
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    Love the track pictures. Too bad you did t run the chicane.
    John
    E36 LS3

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    Lift = jealous.

    Tipsy
    Yeah, lift is a life saver... Done few swaps without it, including my initial LS1 swap and I'm not looking forward to doing one without lift anymore

    Quote Originally Posted by Maynor View Post
    Love the track pictures. Too bad you did t run the chicane.
    Hehe... Figured if not on the car, at least on foot... BTW I did run the chicane, I just did not stop to take a picture. I was trying to keep up with my wife


    Now on to the swap updates... Sorry it might not be well flowing post as I had couple of beers at the end of today, which typically not happening often. So here we go...

    On Sunday we had a long day. We were prepping the LS2 engine for going into the car and some work on chassis. We started with the sensors. I had to take my custom oil pressure gauge sensor and remove it from LS1 and transfer it over to LS2. Then drill and tap the little receptacle for OEM BMW dummy light pressure sensor.

    Next the oil level sensor from FBody pan came out and oil temperature sensor went into its place instead. Once that was done, the passenger side head received the BMW coolant temperature sensor instead of the block off bolt. (Sorry, not pictures for above...)

    All these little things eat up so much time that it's not even funny.

    Next move was to install some of the heat shielding on my new clutch line as it is passing in close proximity to exhaust and I also decided to put some self-adhesive heat shield in the trans tunnel. This should definitely help to reflect some of the heat. Love the way this material handles.




    Next up we moved back to the LS2. In order to relocate shifter to the f-body location, we had to replace the shifter cup. So here you can see the GTO style is still on the trans and the f-body style next to it, ready to go in. It is done simply by knocking out the retaining pin, sliding the shifter cup out. Placing the new one on to the selector rod and putting the retaining pin back.



    Cover it up with my new MGW short shifter.


    Then finally, after all that, the LS2 jumped off the pallet and started moving towards its new home in my car, while the LS1 jumped on to the pallet...





    Finally it made into the car. Sitting on the mounts with headers on the motor and all bolted in.





    And we finished the night with the engine, headers and steering shaft all installed.



    I am currently running one day behind on updates. Pretty tired and falling asleep as I try to proof read this. Sorry, but update from today, will have to be done next time....

    It will involve installing GTO drive by wire pedal
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  23. #23
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    What is the heat reflective material? I want to do the same. And possibly some sound deadening as well.

    Tipsy

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    What is the heat reflective material? I want to do the same. And possibly some sound deadening as well.

    Tipsy
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSP-721202
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  25. #25
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    DEИVEЯ, CO.
    Posts
    768
    My Cars
    95 M3 6.0 Litre
    Always happy to see the updates to this thread, also great progress!. Looking forward to more updates

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