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Thread: M30 crank nut - removal.

  1. #1
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    M30 crank nut - removal.

    Any suggestions for this 36mm bastard?

    4/1990 JDM 535i/5 swap (122,000 kms) - 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette (children-bus) - 1989 Honda Civic Wagon (only 464,000 kms - haha!)

  2. #2
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    1989 BMW 535i/5spd Swao
    Impact Gun/Socket or crank hub bmw tool or my dad used a pipe that has chains on it (not sure what it's called) to lock the hub while i used a breaker bar with a 4' extension off a floor jack to break the nut (and my back) haha
    Bruno
    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    02/1989 BMW 535i 5spd Converted

    (AMR)Association of Modified Rides - Auto Club

  3. #3
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    I used a breaker bar with a pipe and my fat ass hanging on the end of it.

  4. #4
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    So far I am at 100% fail.

    4/1990 JDM 535i/5 swap (122,000 kms) - 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette (children-bus) - 1989 Honda Civic Wagon (only 464,000 kms - haha!)

  5. #5
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    Use the biggest impact wrench you can get your hands on. Don't use an extension on the socket because an extension will absorb the impact.
    Current Garage:
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  6. #6
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    92 535i Touring, 02 X5
    Is the engine in or out of the car?

    In- put the breaker bar with 36mm socket on the nut and turn the breaker bar until it rests on the drivers side frame rail. Bump once or twice with the starter and the nut will loosen. Before all the whiny pussies start with the "it will ruin XXX..." bullshit, the flywheel and starter have the mechanical advantage on this one.

    If the engine is out of the car invest in a flywheel lock and a good length of pipe:

  7. #7
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    Engine is in the car. Head off, pan off, just the timing cover left with the chain zip-tied to the pulleys.

    4/1990 JDM 535i/5 swap (122,000 kms) - 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette (children-bus) - 1989 Honda Civic Wagon (only 464,000 kms - haha!)

  8. #8
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    You are not SOL yet. You need a crank hub tool:



    Sir Tools has it for $70.00. Or look to see where you can borrow one. Or drop the transmission and use the previous tool shown.

  9. #9
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    I have the said tool, let me know if you'd like to borrow it.


  10. #10
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    Awful kind of you.....but I have very little patience for time.

    4/1990 JDM 535i/5 swap (122,000 kms) - 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette (children-bus) - 1989 Honda Civic Wagon (only 464,000 kms - haha!)

  11. #11
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christoffer View Post
    So far I am at 100% fail.
    how fat are you? and how long of an extension do you have? do you have the flywheel locked?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racerhoze View Post
    how fat are you? and how long of an extension do you have? do you have the flywheel locked?
    how fat are you? Not very.

    how long of an extension do you have? 36"

    do you have the flywheel locked? No.

    4/1990 JDM 535i/5 swap (122,000 kms) - 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette (children-bus) - 1989 Honda Civic Wagon (only 464,000 kms - haha!)

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by CO535i View Post
    That's doable! Thank you!

    4/1990 JDM 535i/5 swap (122,000 kms) - 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette (children-bus) - 1989 Honda Civic Wagon (only 464,000 kms - haha!)

  15. #15
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    It's not hard with the proper tools. I have the holder too, but it's already loaned out. Using the starter or an impact wrench would be silly since you can't reinstall it that way. You should at least think ahead that far. You need a big 3/4 drive torque wrench or a torque multiplier and regular sized torque wrench. I wouldn't say the torque is critical, but you should at least get it close and no one is able to estimate 300+ft.lbs. so you will need a torque wrench.

  16. #16
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    I think you can use a screwdriver to lock the flywheel. Personally I took the starter out and had a friend jam a pry bar against the teeth of the flywheel. Having the flywheel locked is the first thing you need to do. If that doesn't allow you o break it free, get a longer extension. I had about 6 feet of breaker bar + pipe. If both of those fail, get fatter, I weighed about 260 then.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racerhoze View Post
    I think you can use a screwdriver to lock the flywheel. Personally I took the starter out and had a friend jam a pry bar against the teeth of the flywheel. Having the flywheel locked is the first thing you need to do. If that doesn't allow you o break it free, get a longer extension. I had about 6 feet of breaker bar + pipe. If both of those fail, get fatter, I weighed about 260 then.
    Any problems associated with locking the flywheel? I've done the same until someone told me that you can stress the crank that way. Any truth to that or is it a myth to be busted.
    demet
    88'535is, 88'M5, 89'535i, 01'525it

  18. #18
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    I don't know about damaging the crank, but I know for sure you can break the flywheel teeth. Considering the difficulty of replacing the flywheel vs. finding the right tool, I would reccomend finding the right tool.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Layne View Post
    I don't know about damaging the crank, but I know for sure you can break the flywheel teeth. Considering the difficulty of replacing the flywheel vs. finding the right tool, I would reccomend finding the right tool.
    You won't break the crank but the force required to break free the crank nut seems considerable enough that I'd NOT try holding it with a single tooth of the flywheel.
    A long bar against the ground and bumping the starter is a crude method but has been effective for me.
    Last edited by ross1; 04-13-2011 at 12:23 PM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  20. #20
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    Perhaps it was a bad idea, but I did not damage my flywheel, and 60K later my crank seems fine. (knocks on wood)

  21. #21
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    Christoffer,
    So how did you get the nut off? CO535i setup?

    Thanks

    Jim

  22. #22
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    Removed the radiator and used an electric Dewalt impact. So relieved.

    4/1990 JDM 535i/5 swap (122,000 kms) - 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette (children-bus) - 1989 Honda Civic Wagon (only 464,000 kms - haha!)

  23. #23
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    1988 BMW 530i
    I built the tool out of 1/8" plate and some square tubing. Took half a day but it made the job painless!
    I first tried bolting the tubing to the sandwiched 1/8" (so 1/4" total) plate but it started to twist, so I reinforced it with some angle.


  24. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    NC
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    92 735il

    36 mm crank Bolt

    We just removed that 36mm on our 92 735iL M30/B35 motor. Motor was stripped down to a block with crank / rods pistons and flywheel. Block sitting upside down on two pieces of steel square tubing. 2 flywheel bolts removed and lug nuts installed with 3 ft crow bar levered for CW rotation looking at the flywheel. Another crow bar through the block to help hold it from lifting . Son on a 1/2 breaker bar with 3 Ft of pipe on it. It took all his weight (About 165 lbs) on the breaker bar . Nut would not come loose. Pulled the oxy/acetylene torch out and got the nut near red hot still took all his weight then finally popped and was free. I am not sure what that torque spec is but seems it was awfully tight for something that retains a hub with key.
    We are parting the block down so if anyone needs some Hi compression B35 STD size pistons / Rods / Crank or a bare block LMK

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