Engine Oil

[DeddMoneyDave]

What is everyone running here, besides the bmw 5w30 and mobil 0w40 (which doesnt test out well from what I've seen)? Anyone do oil analysis with different oils in a 540?

[TarHeel E39]

I use Castrol Syntec 0w30 that is made in Germany. It is also referred to as GC. It meets LL-01 standards.

I would consider using Mobil 1 5w40 truck and suv or delvac 1 5w40 if I was burning through any material amount of oil. Even though it is not rated as the 0w40 (which is a fine oil in its own right) for BMW use, it is not much different and has a strong additive pack.

I recommend that you go to bobistheoilguy and do some research there.

[Ride]

I run GC too. :D

Can't find the green one anymore though. So my stock is all gold. Those people at BITOG are nuts.

[nightkrawler]

5w30 is recommended by bmw for 2 reasons, 1) correct operation of the vanos system, faster the oil gets to the vanos at startup the better. 2) maintain their estimated fuel(mpg) usage. imo, 5w30 and below is too thin for most ambient temps.(if i lived in siberia i'd use it). im currently running 10w30 and will be switching to 15w40 in the next few days for the summer. if you read your owners manual, it specifies 15w40 for "summer" conditions, least the one for my model year does. but this topic has been beaten to death and everyone has their own opinions, its like discussing politics, lol. use what you want for your own engine.

[mnchvgs79]

Amsoil 10w40 ;)

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/amo_qt_300pxh.jpg

[Skeet 528i]

just got my analysis back from Blackstone labs on 6K miles w/ow40 mobile 1

response said...go for 7K miles b-4 changing - antiwear additives were still at far better than normal levels for the 6k miles.

was very pleased at these results. my 528i has 136k miles and still runs buttery smooth

[gtx510]

I run GC, you can get it at Autozone and Advanced Auto. Most people seem to like it better than M1 0W40. Less ticky-ticky noise from the top-end.

I haven't seen M1 5W40 in a long time. Mobil changed it to 5W30 and said they'd come out with a new 5W40 but I haven't seen any on the shelves yet, and I checked Wallyworld last week.

If an oil meets the LL-01 spec it's either a thick 0W30/5W30 or a thin 0W40/5W40. With a HTHS around 3.5? Whatever the HTHS # is it's high for a 30wt and low for a 40wt.

I don't know about running a dino 15W40 HDEO (Deisel oil) in a newer BMW. Being a bit thick at start aside, HDEO's don't have low sulfated ash percentages like the LL-01 oils. Know I don't remember if and when BMW stopped the Nikasil cylinder linings but sulfur is tough on them, sulfated ash....
I'd use a Mobil, Exxon, or Halvoline 10W40 instead if you really wanted to run a dino oil. I think that's what I'll be using when I run some Auto-RX thru the engine.

And I won't think of running a dino oil beyond 5k. 3k is probably about right, even if it was a "million mile" oil designed for SLOW-spinning deisel engines that run bypass filtration and don't dilute the oil with fuel.
*end rant*

[nightkrawler]

Amsoil 10w40 ;)

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/amo_qt_300pxh.jpg

just did my oc with their 15w40, great stuff! engine idles much smoother and quieter. nikasil? no, they dont use that anymore, they switched to alusil sleeves in certain engines. that whole deal was a lot of internet hype and bs. my friend has an e34 with the nik engine with 160k on it and his last cyl leak down test showed a max loss of 2% in the "worst" cyl. the prob they had was mainly with cars that were driven short trips that never really got up to temp. they would then be parked and the unburned fuel would sit in the cylinders causing the prob in some cars. the fix was a dme chip upgrade which cut the fuel on the last 2 cycles of the engine when the car was shut off, to burn any residual fuel and to raise the operating temp of the car. after this was done there were no more probs, least at our dealership. again, internet propaganda, just like the e46 m3 main bearing recall. when people hear they can get a new engine due to a recall, what do you think they're going to do..??

[dagoo98]

Mobil 1 0W-40 is the way to go. It's BMW approved, and the car runs smoother than when it has BMW syntethic.

[mookish]

5W-30 and SAE 5W-40 - From the Manual

160421

[exmaxima1]

[FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]
5W-30 and SAE 5W-40 - From the Manual

Things change since the manual was published. Mobil 1 is approved for 0W-40, and should outperform 5W-40 over a wider temperature range.

[nightkrawler]

you have to consider what type of engine you have also when deciding on an oil. vanos or non vanos is a big variable, vanos engines are recommended to use the lightweight oils for correct operation of the vanos units. especially in cold weather/starts, the faster the oil gets to the system the better.
im non vanos and my manual says 15w40 for basically "summer" temps, thats what i just used for my oc, amsoil 15w40, and the car runs/idles much smoother and quieter. if m1 0w40 is so fantastic then why dosent bmw use it in any vehicle?? all the new ///M cars are using 10w60.. i put that 0w40 crap in my audi a4 when i had it and a week later i had lifter noise. even for a turbochraged car it's on the light side. it's too light for temperate climates imho, if i lived in the arctic then i might use it. i dont understand why everyone loves m1 so much, there are far superior oils available. only pro in my book is that you can get a gallon jug a walmart for $20, i guess thats it. though for 8qts of amsoil i paid $55 w/tax at napa, so for about $12 more you can use amsoil instead of m1 and get a much better oil.
its not even worth discussing this topic cause its like talking politics or religion, everyone has their own opinion and its not going to change, not to mention its been beaten to death anyway...

[forsaken]

I would run GC if I could... But since I can't I am running Amsoil 15w-40 euro.

Oh Yeah, I love BITOG!

[mookish]

its not even worth discussing this topic cause its like talking politics or religion, everyone has their own opinion and its not going to change, not to mention its been beaten to death anyway...
That's what I say, the "oil" question has been around for too long, I wondered the same thing but instead of asking here and risk starting a war, I just did my own research...i.e., I read the manual. And just for fun I went to the BMW dealer and asked the same question and the mechanic said without even pausing for 1 second, 5w30 synthetic. So for those who say that things have changed since the manual was published, It hasn't changed at the dealership. And I'm sure BMW tested their engines to death in all kinds of climates and operating conditions before coming up with their recommendation. So I'm going to stick with them on this one.

The page I attached a few posts up is from the 2000 E39 5 Manual, It says Approved oils are in SAE classes 5W-30 and SAE 5W-40.

This page is from the 2004 E60 5 manual (525, 530 & 545)...and it says the same thing, so things haven't changed that much...
160575

[exmaxima1]

[SIZE=2]
So for those who say that things have changed since the manual was published, It hasn't changed at the dealership. And I'm sure BMW tested their engines to death in all kinds of climates and operating conditions before coming up with their recommendation. So I'm going to stick with them on this one.



The mechanic said 5W-30 cuz that is what they sell. If you only want to use a BMW-approved oil (LL-spec), and you happen to like Mobil1, then you need to use their 0W-40. I do not believe that M1 5W-30 meets the LL-spec.

And all the boutique oils, like Amsoil/Redline/Purple something, may not be BMW-approved.

In any case, I've used M1 5W-30 for years and never had any problems with it. I recently switched to M1 0W-40 and see no difference as well. I'm quite sure something else will fail on the car long before the engine wears out due to oil.

Matthew

[mookish]

The mechanic said 5W-30 cuz that is what they sell.
MatthewNot true, I was at the dealer on other business and I told the mechanic that I was going to do my own oil change soon and I wanted to know which oil I should buy. So there was nothing in it for him or BMW.


I'm quite sure something else will fail on the car long before the engine wears out due to oil.
I agree, if you change you oil regularly, each and every 3000-7500 miles, the very last thing you'll need to worry about is engine wear due to oil, and all those minor differences in oil will be negligible.

[crown14]

I have to agree. Within reason, any fresh oil is better than running your engine with old worn out, broken down oil in it.
That being said, I am not saying its cool to go down and buy a case of 75W90 and pour it in your car or anything. A few weeks ago I scored 10 quarts of Syntec 5W50 on craigslist for $10 from a guy who thought he had bought 5w30 for his Camry. Will I risk putting it in my 540i? Hell yeah, even if it isnt what the powers that be preach. The fact of the matter is, in 3 months it will be coming out wether or not I have put 3k miles on the car because I like to change it that often.

anyway, rant over

[nightkrawler]

im a bmw tech and i pour that 5w30 crap in engines all day long, will i use it in my car... nope. i dont care what bmw recommends, redline for example is probably one of if not the best oil redily available.. screw castrol.

[exmaxima1]

will i use it in my car... nope. i dont care what bmw recommends, redline for example is probably one of if not the best oil redily available.. screw castrol.

Would BMW honor a warranty issue if you use Redline, as it is not an approved oil? I understand that your own car is not under warranty, but what if it was a CPO with a warranty?

Matthew

[nightkrawler]

i'll have to check on that matt, warranty specs isnt my forte.

[gtx510]

I've heard that manufacturers would have to prove that the engine failure was related to the oil that you used. Like if it were too thin and you spun a bearing. If it was clearly a manufacturer defect they should have a tough time blaming it on the oil.
You ould always change the oil before you when back to the dealer? Even go thru the effort of pouring the metal shavings down the dipstick tube?


If you guys like M1 0W40 you should love Castrol Syntec 0W30. It's cheaper, and better. It's even made in Germany, hence the nickname, GC, German Castrol. For those on the thicker-thicker thing, M1 0W40 is barely thicker but I think it thins with miles more than Castrol. Seriously, this one time Syntec is better than M1. And I've noticed less valvetrain noise with GC compared to M1 0W40. Try it for yourself and see.... Most Autozone's and Advanced Auto's should carry it.

Yes, Redline is WAY better. So is Motul. But neither are that easy to find. Especially the 5W40. At least around here.

As far as using thicker oil is concerned it'll only protect you're engine more, but could hurt your mpg's a touch. FWIW, I like the thick stuff but good choices are tough to come by and I don't think most engines or climates need it.

[nightkrawler]

i love 15w40, and if i couldn't run a synth i'd run rotella, thats an excellent oil. redline, amsoil, etc aren't that hard to find, least around here.

[gtx510]

I was never too fond of Rotella. I like Delo and Delvac better, less valvetrain noise.

[MontanaRob]

5w40 Pentosyn

Also I found this on another board FWIW

Pour pt/Flash Pt/TBN/Visc at 40C&100C/VI
Motul 0W-40:::::: -60C / 438F / 10.8 / 73.2 & 13.3 / 186
Motul 5W-40:::::: -39C / 442F / 10.3 / 83.1 & 14.0 / 173
Pentosyn 5W-40: -48C / 464F / ? / 90.0 & 14.0 / 160
Amsoil 5W-40:::: -59C / 449F / 12.2 / 83.6 & 14.5 / 182
Liqui-Moly 5w40: -41C / 446F / 9.5 / 92.0 & 14.8 / 168

[gtx510]

IIRC, Motul 0W40 is LL-04 (& LL-01) and the 5W40 is LL-98

I've seen conflicting info on whether Liquimoly/Lubromoly is LL-01 or not. I'd like to get a bottle to check the label.

Going by the spec's above all the oils look good but Amsoil should last longer, higher TBN and viscosity.