Auto to manual swap guide

[xatlas0]

Hello all.

This thread is for anyone contemplating an automatic to manual conversion, also called the auto->manual swap. There are many differences between body styles and submodels in those bodies, so I will try to keep this general until I get to those specific models.

In any swap, there are a few major parts you will need:
Pilot Bearing- get it new, and you must have it. It goes into the transmission inlet on the block.
Flywheel: depending on how much cash you have, you may as well get a lightweight flywheel. They are more expensive, but they improve drivetrain efficiency as well as making the engine much more responsive to throttle input.
Pedal Cluster: now you need three pedals. Big shock, right?
Transmission: the primary component. Get a good one.
Shifter linkage/Stick Assembly: pretty much what you will be using from inside the car. This is an item that is usually upgraded with a short shift kit. Get one, as it is usually regarded as one of the best mods one can do to their car, aside from chipping.
Guibo: a device designed to absorb vibration; it is pretty much a rubber torroid. It bolts to the transmission and the driveshaft. Get one new.
Clutch: Get a clutch kit, rather than an individual clutch, as it will save hassle. Sachs is the standard, with several other brands being used in racing and high-power applications. Very important to feel of shifts. The kit should include a Throw Out (TO) bearing, pressure plate, clutch, and possibly an alignment tool.
Clutch Master and Slave cylinders: These make the clutch pedal actually do something, so they are important. Clutch slaves usually start to go around 100k miles, masters around 150k.

Lastly, while not always a part, the driveshaft may need to be altered to accommodate a manual transmission. In most newer (e28+) 5-ers, driveshafts for manual versions are still readily available. Depending on the alterations required, this can cost anywhere between 150-500$, so it is not a negligible factor.

More often than not, the stock manual version also came with a differently-geared differential. It is not required to change differentials to get the swap to work, but since you will be down there, may as well put in a Limited Slip Differential (LSD) to make the car handle better. Entirely up to you.

Basics:
The transmission must bolt to the motor-This is not as simple as it may sound. Before you buy anything, you must be absolutely certain that your transmission will bolt to the motor. Conversion plates are not unheard of, but they are extremely expensive and must be custom made. In other words, lots of money. Save yourself a lot of hassle and either go with a stock transmission/engine combo or go to a pick & pull and test it yourself.

Onto specifics:

I’ll start with the E28, as it is a fairly simple car, and there is an excellent walkthrough already made for the chassis.

There were 3 main models of E28, the 535/533, the 528i, and the M5. The 524td is a very rare car stateside, so I’ll leave it out. The good news is all these cars have interchangeable transmissions. In other words, the 528i transmission will bolt up to a M5 and a 533/535. Also, this body style got BMWs strongest transmission to date, the Getrag 265. This transmission has been known to handle serious (400+) torque stock. Hence, it is sought after quite a bit by enthusiasts. There is a list of various transmissions used in 80s BMWs on Metric Mechanic’s online catalogue, as well as some good reading about the various transmissions. (ratios, reliability, etc.)

This is the easiest modern 5-er to do the swap on, as the electronics are downright simple compared to even an E34. If you are planning on building a fire-breathing custom 5-er rod, get a 528i/5, 1981 model year. This will give you the Getrag 265 and a cheapo motor to pawn. It should also be the easiest car to find and be the cheapest. But I digress.

Walkthrough:
http://www.e28planet.com/DaveKanTransGuide/index.html

Hopefully that walkthrough answered most of your questions.

Onwards, to the E34!

This is the second easiest to swap, mostly because the electronics are pretty unobtrusive. The most common swap is for the 540, as they only made it for 2 years, one of which they offered a manual. Thankfully, one of our wise forum members posted a parts list for the swap. As for the actual procedure, it is much like a normal swap. Do the mechanicals, sort out the electricals.

Originally Posted by Will Allen
Since someone asked ( and I know I looked for this all over the place before I did it! ), here is what I can come up with for all of the parts used in converting my 94 540ia to a 540i/6:

6-speed transmission (msrp ~$5k)
clutch master and slave cylinders
flywheel ( msrp ~700 )
driveshaft ( msrp ~$700-800 )
pedal cluster
shifter and linkage

This is everything I "got" from a donor car via the internet.
In addition, I was invoiced for this from the mechanic:

21 52 1 159 350 fluid hose ( $37.50 )
11 14 1 729 836 gasket ( $5.90 )
11 14 1 710 247 crankshaft seal ($52.25 )
25 11 1 221 822 (2) shift bushing ( $12.40 )
23 70 1 092 201 cross member ( $37.11 )
23 70 1 141 614 (2) trans mount ( $34.20 )
11 21 1 720 310 pilot bearing ( $18.06 )
18 21 1 178 340 (2) exhaust hanger ( $17.00 )
26 12 1 226 657 center support ( $100.20)
25 11 1 222 651 mounting ( $19.37 )
25 11 1 222 365 shift a ( $23.26 )
MTL redline synth mtl ( $18 )

Labor for me would have been $930, which includes reprogramming the reverse lights and the passenger mirror tilt-down stuff. Alas, the tranny I bought was bad, so I had to pay another $600 for diagnosis, removal and installation of a brand new 6-speed.

I still need a shift knob and boot, too.

Hope this helps someone.

-- Will
1994 540i/6 w/Dinan catalogue.

E34 manuals are pretty rare overall, so don’t be discouraged if you can’t find one. The transmissions for the other engine types (M20, M50, M50TU, M30) can be taken from other cars with the same engine. For example, the transmission from a M50 powered 1992 325 will fit on a M50 powered 525. As a side note, the transmissions from the E28 will bolt up to any M30 powered E34, as the E28 used the M30 motor as well. (Gotta love an engine that was in production from 1968-1993) The other motor, the Motorsport S38 can also bolt up to M30 transmissions.

Now for the bad news- E39:

Ah, the E39. An excellent car, right up until the point where you try to mess with it. This car is wired more than a mobster’s phone. Quite simply, with the car values as they sit and the increased number of manuals floating around, it is not worth it to do a manual swap on an E39. All told, a swap in an E39 takes more than triple the time it does on an E34 or E28 because of the electronics, even though mechanically, it is the same procedure. In order to get the E39 to even turn over after a swap, you have to replace the dash cluster, the DME, and fake out the car into thinking the late transmission computer is still spewing signals.

In other words, it costs nearly 8k in parts, regardless of model. (Assuming new parts) Yep, costs the same to swap a 525 as a 540. Lame, isn’t it?

E60 and beyond: I fully expect BMW to make the car give you an electric shock to prevent you from doing any upkeep on the car. It only gets worse from the E39.

So, in summation, the last 5-er you can realistically do a swap in is the E34, it is not cheap, it is not for the faint-of-hands, and should run about 3-6k depending on the quality of parts used.

[Gunslinger]

One additional point - the rear end ratio in the auto is far, far higher in the e34 525i auto than the manual - if you swap that, you'll need a new rear diff as well.

[RecklessKelly]

I've been told by several people that the "big six" motors have a different bellhousing pattern than the "baby sx" motors. ie. A 535 tranny won't bolt upto a 525/528 engine. can anyone confirm this?

[xatlas0]

I've been told by several people that the "big six" motors have a different bellhousing pattern than the "baby sx" motors. ie. A 535 tranny won't bolt upto a 525/528 engine. can anyone confirm this?

I took the trans from an 81 528e and bolted it to an 87 735 M30 in my E9. It fits. However, if, for some reason, it doesn't, you can actually remove the bellhousing on the 265 and swap it with the bellhousing from another M30 based one. If you get a 260, then the bellhousing is not easily swapable. If you mean taking the trans from a 3-series car, like a 325 or 325e, those might work, as the clutch sizes are the same. (228mm) Any M10 based car will not work, however, as their clutch size is smaller, meaning the bellhousing is smaller. I highly doubt they changed the block specifically for the 528e over the 325e, so I would say those cars had the same bellhousing bolt patterns, and realoem says they both used the Gertrag 260 as their trans.

Like I said, try to make sure everything bolts up first, before you buy. A pick-n-pull would help the most with that, as then you can just measure everything.

[RecklessKelly]

I have confirmed it, a transmission from an M20, WILL NOT bolt up to an M30, and Vice-versa. The diameter of the bellhousing is different, the bolt pattern is different, and the M30 tranny bolts to the motor with a couple of 8mm bolts while the M20 uses all 10mm bolts. Like xatlas0 said, you can swap the bell housing on the 265, but the 260 series tranny's are one piece housings. I've found a 260 series in an '85 528e that is M20 patterned and ready to go in soon, very soon.

On another note, if you have an early e34 (89-91) you might have the clutch return spring mount on your pedal assembly already, meaning that all you need is the clutch and brake pedal from your donor car.

[Ken21]

sorry to bring up an old thread but xtalas....i would need some of your help ^^

my 540 has auto tranny with step. and is dying now....the torque converter is going too...so rebuild my whole tranny ( included some kind of upgrade )is around $4-5k plus labor.....than i just told myself to just spend some extra to get a 6 speed...since i am going to supercharge it...and i am going to replace the tranny to manual sooner or later...and i know with all this money i throw into...i can just get a 540/6 but here in Hong Kong....i dont think you can find one lol.....

so i have some questions :

1. is $10k enough to do this swap ??
2. which 6spd tranny should i get ??
3. will the m5 tranny works ??
4. i am going to get a m5 cluster so the cluster problem is solve ...right ??
5. do i need to replace my driveshaft,halfshaft and ???
6. and any info from you would be great

thanks

Ken

[Mohamed 525i]

Great info. guys from all of u and I hope this will help everyone here starting from me


thanx


Mohamed

[xatlas0]

sorry to bring up an old thread but xtalas....i would need some of your help ^^

my 540 has auto tranny with step. and is dying now....the torque converter is going too...so rebuild my whole tranny ( included some kind of upgrade )is around $4-5k plus labor.....than i just told myself to just spend some extra to get a 6 speed...since i am going to supercharge it...and i am going to replace the tranny to manual sooner or later...and i know with all this money i throw into...i can just get a 540/6 but here in Hong Kong....i dont think you can find one lol.....

so i have some questions :

1. is $10k enough to do this swap ??
2. which 6spd tranny should i get ??
3. will the m5 tranny works ??
4. i am going to get a m5 cluster so the cluster problem is solve ...right ??
5. do i need to replace my driveshaft,halfshaft and ???
6. and any info from you would be great

thanks

Ken

1. Honestly, I am not sure. I do not know what kind of labor rates you guys have over there, so the 10k value is pretty meaningless. I would suggest finding a shop and getting an estimate that you can hold them to.

2. There is one type of transmission used in the V8-s, the Getrag S6S 420G. You can use the M5 trans, you can use the 540 trans, you can use the 840 trans, if you can find a manual one. You may even be able to use the trans from an 850CSi, but I would make sure that fits in the tunnel and mounts properly before you buy one.

3. Answered in 2.

4. Perhaps, perhaps not. It will still probably need to be reprogrammed.

5. Yes, you will need to replace your driveshaft, as the auto and manual transmissions are different lengths. You should not need to replace your halfshafts unless you chnge to a M5 diff, and even then, I would imagine it is optional.

6. Hope it helps.

As a side note, if you want to get the requirements of such a swap straight from someone who did it, call up a shop here called Performing Imports, in Alpharetta, GA. Ron performed the E39 540 6 speed swap, so he can tell you everything that is required.

[Ken21]

1. so the m5 6spds is same s the 540 6spds ??
2. both m5 and 540 trans will fits in the tunnel and mounts properly into my 540....right ??
3. can i use a m5 driveshaft ??

[Ken21]

what's the rough est. cost of parts alone ?? i will get the parts used but will get some new parts for some MUST new parts

[xatlas0]

1. so the m5 6spds is same s the 540 6spds ??
2. both m5 and 540 trans will fits in the tunnel and mounts properly into my 540....right ??
3. can i use a m5 driveshaft ??

The M5 trans has beefier internals (supposedly) than the 540 version. They both have the same model number and are designated by the same names in realoem, so I am not so sure.

The trans you are considering went into the E39 body style, and I kinda doubt they moved the block around too much with the M5 when compared to the 540, so all the mounting hardware should mate just fine.

I suppose you could use a M5 driveshaft. It would probably be cheaper to find a 540i/6 driveshaft, though, since M parts are usually more expensive than their standard counterparts.

As for used parts costs, I really don't know what the market is like in HK. Around here, I can get a used 540 6 speed trans for 500-1000$, but I happen to have a good pick-n-pull relatively close to me. They usually run for about 1-2k in working condition in the US.

The costs of parts alone varies with the required electrical components. Like I said, the electronics drive up the parts cost significantly, usually often doubling the mechanical parts costs. Plus, the HK market is probably different than the US market for these parts.

[Ken21]

i don't think i can get any parts in HK...since there is almost none E39 540/6 in HK ( less than 5 )....and those who drives M5 won't sell the tranny...so i can only get all the main parts from either taiwan or US....is there anyway you can help me to get it ??

$500 to $1000 for a 540 6 speed tranny sounds good to me....i don't mind paying a little more for a better conditon one....

as for the electronics ....what do i really need ?? a new DME ?? all the wiring ?? re-program my car by GT1 ?? i would say 80% or more parts i will get is from the US...there is nothing i can get in HK...except E36 tranny...

[xatlas0]

i don't think i can get any parts in HK...since there is almost none E39 540/6 in HK ( less than 5 )....and those who drives M5 won't sell the tranny...so i can only get all the main parts from either taiwan or US....is there anyway you can help me to get it ??

$500 to $1000 for a 540 6 speed tranny sounds good to me....i don't mind paying a little more for a better conditon one....

as for the electronics ....what do i really need ?? a new DME ?? all the wiring ?? re-program my car by GT1 ?? i would say 80% or more parts i will get is from the US...there is nothing i can get in HK...except E36 tranny...

Shipping will be your biggest "lame" cost, more than likely. To get some of the parts, I would suggest Strictly German. It will be rather difficult to get them to trust that you aren't a scammer, though.

As for the specific parts required, I am unsure, I have heard conflicting reports. That is why I suggested calling Performing Imports, as they actually know.

[Ken21]

can you get me a tranny and driveshaft ??? plz....

[Johnnb]

This is awesome information for sure but I don't know if I could handle all the work and just buy a manual from the start. :D

[hydra.]

I've been looking at using a Getrag 265 for a twin-turbo V8 project and I've got a few questions I'd like to ask:

- First off will the 265 handle ~650lb-ft of torque in a 3500lb car assuming it is driven sensibly with no 6000rpm clutch drops and all that other nonsense? I've heard of 700bhp Turbo I6s with a Getrag 265, but I've also heard of E21s with M90s breaking trannies...

- Does anybody know if it is at all possible to mix and match ratios between the 265/5 and 265/6? Ideally I'd use 3rd and 4th out of the /5 CR box as 2nd and 3rd respectively, coupled with a custom, taller, 1st gear ratio. But this is just wishful thinking at this point...

- Is the Getrag 280 any stronger than the 265?

- What is the shaft spacing on these trannies? Should give me a good idea of how strong it is. Are there any parts (gear ratios) interchangeable between 260,262,265,280, etc trannies? I live overseas and Beemer trannies can be had for a dime a dozen here...

[ifixm]

That is the transmission from the E39 M5 and it can handle 650lbs of torque and well over 700bhp.

[xatlas0]

I've been looking at using a Getrag 265 for a twin-turbo V8 project and I've got a few questions I'd like to ask:

- First off will the 265 handle ~650lb-ft of torque in a 3500lb car assuming it is driven sensibly with no 6000rpm clutch drops and all that other nonsense? I've heard of 700bhp Turbo I6s with a Getrag 265, but I've also heard of E21s with M90s breaking trannies...

The unit itself i quite strong, based on all accounts. The most common source of failure is synchro failure. The 265 used studier synchros than the 260. The main thing that affects synchro life, however, is the driver, as many people have reported failing synchros in E39 540s and M5s. Proper upkeep of the transmission is also important. I have a 265 used in an E28 528i and it still shifts smooth after almost 200k miles. (in my E9) If you want to have transmission "built", there are several people that can do this, like Blaton or Metric Mechanic.



- Does anybody know if it is at all possible to mix and match ratios between the 265/5 and 265/6? Ideally I'd use 3rd and 4th out of the /5 CR box as 2nd and 3rd respectively, coupled with a custom, taller, 1st gear ratio. But this is just wishful thinking at this point...

I do not think the internal components of the CR and OD boxes are interchangeable, as the shift forks were different and the shift pattern different. As such, the shafts and gears in the CR box are arranged differently, and I doubt they would mesh well in the OD setup. You could try though, or give someone like Metric Mechanic a call, as they can do custom ratios in their transmissions.



- Is the Getrag 280 any stronger than the 265?
Some have said yes, others no. It doesn't help there are several versions of the 280, each with different strength ratings. I'd use the 265 for the ease of replacement and cheapness of rebuilding, personally. The seperate bellhousing is quite nice.



- What is the shaft spacing on these trannies? Should give me a good idea of how strong it is. Are there any parts (gear ratios) interchangeable between 260,262,265,280, etc trannies? I live overseas and Beemer trannies can be had for a dime a dozen here...

For internal dimensions and schematics, I think you'd have to get a rebuild guide. Hm, I think I still have it up, if you are interested. It is from the factory blue books:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/getrag%20265%20rebuild%20procedure1.pdf

[hydra.]

So does anybody know the shaft spacing on these trannies?
It seems VERY small in the rebuild manual...
What's the input shaft diameter for M30 Beemers? 10splines x 27mm?

[xatlas0]

So does anybody know the shaft spacing on these trannies?
It seems VERY small in the rebuild manual...
What's the input shaft diameter for M30 Beemers? 10splines x 27mm?

Based on this:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD13&mospid=47408&btnr=23_0588&hg=23&fg=15

it does appear the input shaft is 27mm. I don't know the number of splines, unfortunately.

[hydra.]

Using the diagram in the rebuild manual, and using the input shaft diameter as a reference, shaft spacing is around 72mm which is pretty damn small for a tranny supposedly this strong! I found that the shaft spacing is ~2.625 times the outer diameter of the input shaft (at the OD of the splines)

[hydra.]

Another question for you guys, how do you tell a 265/5 CR box apart from a 265/6 box? Does the dogleg box housing have a "262" casting number whereas the OD box doesn't? I may have found one locally, for a very favorable price too, and just wanted to be sure since I couldn't find any ID tags... Thanks!

PS - the "262" housing in question is a 3-piece

[xatlas0]

Another question for you guys, how do you tell a 265/5 CR box apart from a 265/6 box? Does the dogleg box housing have a "262" casting number whereas the OD box doesn't? I may have found one locally, for a very favorable price too, and just wanted to be sure since I couldn't find any ID tags... Thanks!

PS - the "262" housing in question is a 3-piece

Many of the 265's have a 262 cast case. The unit is identical to the 262, expect for that third section, which they added for the other gear.

In terms of telling the two apart, other than checking the part numbers, you could o a quick test by hooking up a shifter to the unit and feeling for the gates, since the shift pattern of the OD and CR boxes are different.

[ToppedOut525i]

Yea this thread helps me out alot... If you wanna manual E34 just buy another E34. Price sounds like the same unless you get some mad deals on the tranny and various parts. I'll stick with my auto :D

[hydra.]

The tranny in question is sitting on a shelf @ my local BMW breaker yard sans shifter. He's offering it for an absurdly low price which leads me to believe that he doesn't quite know what he's got there, and I have no intention of alerting him either, so I'm not too keen on trying it out with a shifter, and would rather stick to visual clues. Now the tranny in question is a 3-piece unit, and has a 262 casting number on the intermediate housing (the one between the bellhousing and the tail housing). I don't quite recall if it was sand-cast or die-cast but I can check tomorrow. Is surface roughness a surefire indication of tranny type? I also recall reading that the tailhousings of the /5 and /6 boxes were different, but I don't know the difference, so I'd really appreciate it if somebody were to enlighten me. Remember, we're limited to visual cues here, and the tranny is missing any sort of ID tag

[xatlas0]

The tranny in question is sitting on a shelf @ my local BMW breaker yard sans shifter. He's offering it for an absurdly low price which leads me to believe that he doesn't quite know what he's got there, and I have no intention of alerting him either, so I'm not too keen on trying it out with a shifter, and would rather stick to visual clues. Now the tranny in question is a 3-piece unit, and has a 262 casting number on the intermediate housing (the one between the bellhousing and the tail housing). I don't quite recall if it was sand-cast or die-cast but I can check tomorrow. Is surface roughness a surefire indication of tranny type? I also recall reading that the tailhousings of the /5 and /6 boxes were different, but I don't know the difference, so I'd really appreciate it if somebody were to enlighten me. Remember, we're limited to visual cues here, and the tranny is missing any sort of ID tag

I'm going to guess he doesn't know what it came from either. The 262 cast case means very little, as the actual 262 I removed from my CS has the exact same case as the 265 OD I put in. Visual cues will make this interesting. Try these pictures to get an idea:
265/5:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=5331&mospid=47199&btnr=23_0014&hg=23&fg=15

265/6:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=5331&mospid=47199&btnr=23_0072&hg=23&fg=15

265/5= CR box, 265/6 is the OD box.

[hydra.]

xatlas0,
First off thank you for being so helpful, I really appreciate it.
From the ReamOEM diagrams, it appears that the /5 has a longer intermediate housing than the /6, or is that an illusion? According to MM, the intermediate housing on the /6 is 97mm long, so could that be used as another identifying feature as well?

[1989E34.535i]

I got a 89 535i and I pull a getrag 260 from a 87 535i in the junk yard.Will this tranny work?Also can I use the pedals and other parts like the clutch,clutch lines drive shaft,and anything else?Help me out.Also how do you tell if its a 260/5 or 265 tranny?Mine starts with 262.0.0510.90 jdmnt1@hotmail.com

[1989E34.535i]

I pull a getrag tranny from a e28 1985 535i,it has a removeable bell housing.I wanna know if it will fit in my e34 1989 535i.Im doing an auto to manual swap.Also what pedals clutch and driveshaft can fit in my e34 after I put in this tranny? jdmnt1@hotmail.com

[xatlas0]

You picked up a Getrag 265, since it has the removable bellhousing. Very good, as it is stronger than the 260 which would have been the original trans were it a manual.

The pedals will work fine, as long as you use the E34 pedals. The clutch master and slave cylinders need to be both E28 and E34, such that the slave cyl needs to be E28, while the master needs to be E34. This will give you proper meshing with the E34 and proper functioning of the trans. Your driveshaft will have to be a custom cut. Check realoem for the driveshaft lengths. Since the E34 did not get the 265, and the 260/265 are different lengths, you will have to have yours cut or extended to fit the 265. Your shifter linkage will also take some tweaking.

[1989E34.535i]

I have a e34 1989 535i and im looking to swap it from auo to manal.I pulled a 5 speed tranny from a e28 1987 535i,it has the removeable bell housing and the numbers on it is 262.0.0510.90 can this tranny work on my e34 535i and can I also use the clutch,and flywheel?And what about the driveshaft do I need to get the one from my auto shortened,or is there one that will fit with no mods??????:help

[1989E34.535i]

I have a e34 1989 535i and im looking to swap it from auo to manal.I pulled a 5 speed tranny from a e28 1987 535i,it has the removeable bell housing and the numbers on it is 262.0.0510.90 can this tranny work on my e34 535i and can I also use the clutch,and flywheel?And what about the driveshaft do I need to get the one from my auto shortened,or is there one that will fit with no mods??????:help jdmnt1@hotmail.com

[xatlas0]

I have a e34 1989 535i and im looking to swap it from auo to manal.I pulled a 5 speed tranny from a e28 1987 535i,it has the removeable bell housing and the numbers on it is 262.0.0510.90 can this tranny work on my e34 535i and can I also use the clutch,and flywheel?And what about the driveshaft do I need to get the one from my auto shortened,or is there one that will fit with no mods??????:help

You can use the clutch and flywheel from either the E34 or the E28. The driveshaft will have to be custom, as the 265 was never used on the E34. I don't remember if the 265 is shorter or longer than the auto in your car now, so that will determine if it needs to be shortened or lengthened.

[Mark185]

I have hired a reputable mechanic to convert my 1995 525iT to manual transmission and the hardware swap was successful. He says there is a problem with the electrical changes. My car has a production date of 10/1994. He says that the late production E34 models have Active Stability Control version 5 and this causes additional problems with the conversion. Has anyone on the Forum performed this conversion for a late model E34 like mine? Does anyone know the specific electrical changes that are necessary? My mechanic is speculating that the ASC computer needs to be reprogrammed and local dealers probably won't touch this for legal liability reasons because it is not a combination that was sold in the USA.:help

[xatlas0]

I have hired a reputable mechanic to convert my 1995 525iT to manual transmission and the hardware swap was successful. He says there is a problem with the electrical changes. My car has a production date of 10/1994. He says that the late production E34 models have Active Stability Control version 5 and this causes additional problems with the conversion. Has anyone on the Forum performed this conversion for a late model E34 like mine? Does anyone know the specific electrical changes that are necessary? My mechanic is speculating that the ASC computer needs to be reprogrammed and local dealers probably won't touch this for legal liability reasons because it is not a combination that was sold in the USA.:help

You could remove the ASC, it is a fairly common mod to some of the early 90's (and late 90s) E36-es. In terms of reprogramming it, I think that would only be doable at a dealer, or you could try to snag one from a Euro model.

[mose121]

You could remove the ASC, it is a fairly common mod to some of the early 90's (and late 90s) E36-es. In terms of reprogramming it, I think that would only be doable at a dealer, or you could try to snag one from a Euro model.

Why don't you just use the sedan parts. You don't need to go to the dealer or find a euro model. The sedan and wagon are identical in those regards.

[ifixm]

I have hired a reputable mechanic to convert my 1995 525iT to manual transmission and the hardware swap was successful. He says there is a problem with the electrical changes. My car has a production date of 10/1994. He says that the late production E34 models have Active Stability Control version 5 and this causes additional problems with the conversion. Has anyone on the Forum performed this conversion for a late model E34 like mine? Does anyone know the specific electrical changes that are necessary? My mechanic is speculating that the ASC computer needs to be reprogrammed and local dealers probably won't touch this for legal liability reasons because it is not a combination that was sold in the USA.:help

You need the ZCS coding key from a manual car to recode the cluster. You CANNOT just put a cluster in the car, the Vin has to match and you cannot re-code the vin. We do these conversions and the time and the electronic conversion is the hard part. Doing the mechanical part is easy, any one can do that.

[buldogge]

ZCS?

Does this apply only to ASC equipped cars or is it a production date thing?

I have a non-ASC '95 (need to check prod date) 525iT on its way to a S50 drivetrain swap.

TIA


You need the ZCS coding key from a manual car to recode the cluster. You CANNOT just put a cluster in the car, the Vin has to match and you cannot re-code the vin. We do these conversions and the time and the electronic conversion is the hard part. Doing the mechanical part is easy, any one can do that.

[ifixm]

ZCS?

Does this apply only to ASC equipped cars or is it a production date thing?

I have a non-ASC '95 (need to check prod date) 525iT on its way to a S50 drivetrain swap.

TIA

No, this applies to all vehicles. ZCS is German for Central Coding Key and is needed to identify the vehicle to all control units. Instead of making a bunch of different control units, BMW only makes one, and the ZCS turns on the options installed in the vehicle. Without the ZCS the control unit will continue to look for the transmission control unit and send the system into default. It is also not an option just to leave the transmission control unit in place, since the control unit compaires the wheel speed with the transmission output shaft speed, as well as the input shaft speed in corolation to engine rpm's. It simply will not work without recoding the instrument cluster.

[buldogge]

So...Can the ZCS be re-coded option wise, as necessary, by a GT-1 or Autologic (I have both at my disposal).

Simply put...Can you lay out the necessary parts/procedure for the electronic side of the manual swap.

TIA

BTW...PM or email me please if you don't feel like putting this out there for some reason.



No, this applies to all vehicles. ZCS is German for Central Coding Key and is needed to identify the vehicle to all control units. Instead of making a bunch of different control units, BMW only makes one, and the ZCS turns on the options installed in the vehicle. Without the ZCS the control unit will continue to look for the transmission control unit and send the system into default. It is also not an option just to leave the transmission control unit in place, since the control unit compaires the wheel speed with the transmission output shaft speed, as well as the input shaft speed in corolation to engine rpm's. It simply will not work without recoding the instrument cluster.

[ifixm]

So...Can the ZCS be re-coded option wise, as necessary, by a GT-1 or Autologic (I have both at my disposal).

Simply put...Can you lay out the necessary parts/procedure for the electronic side of the manual swap.

TIA

BTW...PM or email me please if you don't feel like putting this out there for some reason.

Sadly the ZCS code is a binary code kept secrect by BMW and not available, but you can trick it - you need a doner vehicle. If you can find an exact model as yours with the 5 speed - including all the drive line options you vehicle has i.e. cruise control, traction control, ASC and so on - copy the ZCS code with the GT1 and then down load it into your cluster. You cannot just swap clusters - you have to have both vehicles on site to do this.

[buldogge]

So... The donor is just "lending" its code to the formally auto equipped car, correct? The reading and storing of the code by the GT-1 will not affect the donor vehicle...correct??

Options to be matched:
Tranny (manual as wanted)
Traction control/ASC yes or no depending on vehicle
cruise control

Anything else to worry about???

TA


Sadly the ZCS code is a binary code kept secrect by BMW and not available, but you can trick it - you need a doner vehicle. If you can find an exact model as yours with the 5 speed - including all the drive line options you vehicle has i.e. cruise control, traction control, ASC and so on - copy the ZCS code with the GT1 and then down load it into your cluster. You cannot just swap clusters - you have to have both vehicles on site to do this.

[ifixm]

So... The donor is just "lending" its code to the formally auto equipped car, correct? The reading and storing of the code by the GT-1 will not affect the donor vehicle...correct??

Options to be matched:
Tranny (manual as wanted)
Traction control/ASC yes or no depending on vehicle
cruise control

Anything else to worry about???

TA

The donor vehicle will not be affected in any way. With the GT1 you do the cluster replacement coding. read the coding from the donor car, then hook up to the converted car and download. The only thing is that you will have to enter the doner cars vin# into the converted cars cluster otherwise you cant download the coding. Feel free to call me at 770-641-6202 and I will try to help you.

[buldogge]

It's going to be a few weeks before the swap probably, but I might take you up on your offer then if its OK.

TA


The donor vehicle will not be affected in any way. With the GT1 you do the cluster replacement coding. read the coding from the donor car, then hook up to the converted car and download. The only thing is that you will have to enter the doner cars vin# into the converted cars cluster otherwise you cant download the coding. Feel free to call me at 770-641-6202 and I will try to help you.

[E34N]

Mods... can we get this sticky'd??? there have been tons of swap questions and apparently no one knows how to search..

[E34N]

bump to vote sticky...

[Mad Dragon]

The M5 trans has beefier internals (supposedly) than the 540 version. They both have the same model number and are designated by the same names in realoem, so I am not so sure.

According to ETK:

M5 -
S6S 420G - TBAF 23 00 7 501 757

540i -
S6S 420G - TAGS 1 < 09/96 M 23 00 1 222 695 (superseded by 488)
S6S 420G - TBAA 1 < 09/96 M 23 00 1 434 488
S6S 420G - TAGZ 1 09/96 - 09/97 M 23 00 1 434 246 (superseded by 488)
S6S 420G - TBAA 1 09/96 - 05/00 M 23 00 1 434 488
S6S 420G - TBAG 1 >05/00 M 23 00 7 508 410

[ctrlaltdl]

Does anyone know if I can swap in a 6-speed from a e39 540i into my e34 540ia with a drive line from a e34 540i6?

[xatlas0]

Yes.

[ctrlaltdl]

So it bolts up to a M60, same length, and driveline bolts up to?

I've been looking for a 6-speed for a e34 all this time, but I should've been looking from an e39, which is more plentiful.

[xatlas0]

Based on what I have seen, it is the exact same transmission, albeit with an extra sensor or two. That said, you will liely have to get a custom driveshaft anyway, since E34 540 shafts are not very common. You should be able to have a driveshaft shop modify your original one to suit the application for ~300-500$.

You will want to use the E34 540 flywheel and clutch, though, as they are larger than the E39 version.

[legendary]

One thing...have we confirmed that the car won't start? I PM'd Dave sometime last year, and this is what he said:



That's not true. The cluster will be looking for the trans computer and it won't be there anymore, so it'll show "TRANS FAIL SAFE" but thats it. The car will start and drive just fine. I believe you can have your cluster re-coded for a manual trans and that will get rid of the error message. I've still not gotten around to dealing with the error message but it only displays the error when I first start the car so it's easy to blow off.

I think I have about $7500 in the swap. My old trans wasn't worth anything; yours might be in good shape, low miles and such so that you could get some cash for it. Maybe even let a buyer drive the car to verify the trans is in good shape before you pull it out.

Dave


Quote:
Originally Posted by legendary
Dave, what went into making your 740i a manual?
I have looked into that, and seems like it is an unbearable chore for the e39 540i. Is there something different on the 740i from the 540i?
Thanks!





I see. Thanks Dave. I originally was looking around and was told that if certain things are not done, the car won't even start. There is a thread here stating something to that affect as well. Did you also have to have certain wiring done to make it work as well? (i.e new dash or wiring transplant from a 540i?)

Also, how much did you end up spending when it was all said and done?

Great job BTW



Thanks for your time!

Leon

Now, I am not doubting what you said, I just am looking at some custom work on this 540i, and wanted the manual to support the F.I. things that are coming to it shortly. Thoughts?

[xatlas0]

Based on a local shop's work, the cluster had to be replaced mostly because of EWS, rather than normal "computer checks". So when he removed the old trans and associated computer, the computer threw a hissy fit because it didn't see the trans computer. Then they hooked up a trans computer, and EWS went nuts. Then they hoked up the original trans computer, and the thing went into limp mode. So, to combat all this, they replaced the cluster with a manual one, and recoded the EWS for the new cluster.

[legendary]

Based on a local shop's work, the cluster had to be replaced mostly because of EWS, rather than normal "computer checks". So when he removed the old trans and associated computer, the computer threw a hissy fit because it didn't see the trans computer. Then they hooked up a trans computer, and EWS went nuts. Then they hoked up the original trans computer, and the thing went into limp mode. So, to combat all this, they replaced the cluster with a manual one, and recoded the EWS for the new cluster.

so does the cluster have to be from the same car, or just from any 6-speed equipped 540i?

[xatlas0]

so does the cluster have to be from the same car, or just from any 6-speed equipped 540i?

I think it was from any 6 speed 540. The EWS can be recoded, the requirement of the trans computer cannot. You can call them up and ask, if you'd like.

http://www.performingimports.com/

[legendary]

thanks man!

[Username in use]

Did a search & found this thread, which is closest to what I need to know.

I have two E34s, a '94 525iT wagon with automatic and a '95 525i sedan with manual transmission. I am planning to convert the wagon to manual and will be doing an engine/trans swap as well. The swapped in engine and trans will utilize a stand alone control system, so I will not need any OEM controls per se, but of course will connect electrical & sensor outputs as needed to interface with the car. I will also convert the sedan to automatic using the corresponding wagon parts.

After reading through this thread, it looks like I can use the mechanicals between the cars OK. My concern is the electronic side. If I swap the clusters will this eliminate or greatly cut down on any headaches? Of course, I want all the gauges to work & no warning lights on.

Also, I'm figuring the holes for the slave cylinder & shift lever are there on the automatic cars so there is no drilling or cutting involved? I did this on a Toyota & it was very simple from that angle due to the pre-drilled & threaded holes.

Thanks in advance.

[AK540i]

What has to be done to fit the 420G from the E39 with M60B44 to E34 with M60B40?

[yeokpd]

Has anyone tried an tranny swap for the E60 5er ?

[E34Mekanik]

Planning on doing a 6-spd swap in my car. In the event of tranny swapping urge...just be glad you have an E34! It's good to know you guys know so much about it, and I'm looking forward to surgery day.

[Cozmo540i]

hey guys, im new to site and im looking to do a 6 speed swap in my 2001 540i im a tech for bmw so iv got all the programing tools and oem tools. right now im saving to do it but im aldo trying to get a list of what i need and tips to do it.

[legendary]

welcome...I think this thread has all of the stuff you need. Good luck and keep us posted

[stevep5791]

I just did this conversion and love it. All in all it wasn't too bad. The car didn't start at first, because the Anti-Theft Drive Away Protection Module located under the left dashboard was not getting the signal from the Transmission Computer that the car was in Park. Once I was able to correct that, the car started and ran great. One remaining issue is that the Engine Computer is generating a Communications Error (and check engine light) because the Transmission Computer is not talking to the (now removed) automatic transmission. In California, this is preventing me from passing the emissions test, even though the emissions measurements are all good. If I remove the transmission computer, the car still starts and runs, but I still get errors. I'm now looking into what other signals I need to generate for the transmission computer to turn off those lights.

[legendary]

Steve P:


Can you share with me an insights or lessons learned from your project?
What parts did you need in particular to complete the swap?
Also, do you have any pictures or anything you can share with me?

I want to do this in the next few weeks or so. Thank you sir.

[nemesis1379]

Atlas I have a 1992 535i and it is a 5 speed getrag 260 with a M30 engine I want to swap that old 260 and install a 265/6 from an old 635csi my question is will I have to change the drive shaft as well or will the same one be ok.

[shafiqnawaz]

hi all

pls tell me what is problem in my BMW E34 525I 1992

i am receive messege OBC " CHECK CONTROL OK "

again and again. what it is ?

and one thing more that today i change engine oil and after start my car i hear sound inside engine very strange , just like " TUK,TUK TUK " this sound not continue

pls reply soon
i am waiting now .

[shafiqnawaz]

how replace fuel pump in bmw 525i 1992

[cdh]

I just did this conversion and love it. All in all it wasn't too bad. The car didn't start at first, because the Anti-Theft Drive Away Protection Module located under the left dashboard was not getting the signal from the Transmission Computer that the car was in Park. Once I was able to correct that, the car started and ran great. One remaining issue is that the Engine Computer is generating a Communications Error (and check engine light) because the Transmission Computer is not talking to the (now removed) automatic transmission. In California, this is preventing me from passing the emissions test, even though the emissions measurements are all good. If I remove the transmission computer, the car still starts and runs, but I still get errors. I'm now looking into what other signals I need to generate for the transmission computer to turn off those lights.

DME and IKE need to be recoded to indicated that the car has a manual trans instead of auto.

[legendary]

hi all

pls tell me what is problem in my BMW E34 525I 1992

i am receive messege OBC " CHECK CONTROL OK "

again and again. what it is ?



pls reply soon
i am waiting now .




:)

That means that everything is OK.

It means no faults have been found....so stop pressing it

[BNVE325XI]

Hi guys I have 02 auto AWD 325xi and want to swap to manual, is this possible please help

[attack eagle]

ask in the correct forum. how would I know anything about a 2002 325xi?

[Bakhtiyar]

Hi
I have a bmw e34 540i auto transmission, however i want to swap it to manual transmission I know that I need a Getrag S6S 420G but I searched many BMW used parts shops and I looked the gearboxes I couldn't find the gearbox name on the transmission I mean Getrag S6S 420G, but on the gearbox there are alot of number like 1222 452 9 11 225 and many others, could you please tell me how can I make sure the gearbox is a six speed Getrag S6S 420G gearbox. thanx in advance

[clutchplate]

I've just done a Manual conversion on my E39 540i Steptronic, now a E39 540iM ... I must be honest, it was DAMN easy...

pulled the steptronic box out, removed its module, installed a custom made flywheel and an E46 M3 clutch, new slave/master cylinder, Made up a new hydro pipe from the master to slave cylinder, had the driveshaft extended and balanced for the manual box, the box comes from an E34 540iM.. ALL that was neccesary to get the car to start was bridge one wire from the starter relay to the ignition positive wire... it was the blue wire incase anyone is wondering. then the car will start, take it to your nearest BMW dealer and get your modules recoded to manual.
as simple as that... the only other thing I had custom made was the rear support bracket on the gearbox, we made a really heavy duty one with really big and heavy duty rubber mounts because the car is getting twin turbo'd... also getting biggass poly urethane engine mountings installed very soon, before the turbos.

:) I wish everything success and happyness :) the Manuals are MUCH more fun than the auto's :)

[clutchplate]

Ok, I spoke too soon. recoding is not as simple as it first looked to be..

I see on the E46, when using the GT1 with sss, you can go in and change any of the SA codes... it lists them for you individually 3 digit numbers seperated by commas, but on the E39 when using SSS, it only gives you one 16 or 17 digit SA number, which seems to be some kind of binary or hex string. 00098c910ca...etc something like that. instead of 202,258,3....etc...

does anyone know of to change the vehicle order, or the SA codes for the E39... It only allows me to change that one 17 digit SA code it has. but how do you decrypt or decode, or change that SA code sothat the car knows the SA code 202 "steptronic" is no longer there and replace it with 207 "6speed manual"...

when I'm driving now, if I go over 2300rpm for a few seconds, the car goes into some protection mode and cuts my power down to 50% and the car just gurgles allong, no other problem appart from trans prog failure.. just this dumb protection mode..

anyone have this before ?

[cdh]

Yes the mechanical part is easy. The coding and wiring to get all the pieces working correctly can be a PITA. The e39 and e38 use the GM portion of the ZCS code to indicate vehicle and trans type. The e46 use the SA portion. You can use either GT1 or Progman/SSS to change the ZCS code. What you change it to can be determined by the cars MFD/VIN. That is not stated. Once the ZCS code is changed, that takes care of the IKE and you just have to re-program the DME. Enjoy.
Craig

[fiama]

This thread help me alot.Its anice place to be here.I got answer for what i was looking for.

BMW Headlights (http://www.headligh*****)
BMW LED Tail Lights (http://www.ledtaillights.biz)

[clutchplate]

shot cdh, only saw your reply now ... I've managed to sort it out allready.. my 50% limp mode problem was due to bad sensors and a flywheel ringgear issue...

by chance, I found a manual e39 540i in a scrapyard, wrote down its vin#, popped into the closest BMW and had them pull the GM/SA number from PuMA, and I compared the manual GM number to me GM number and noticed the 4'th digit if I remember correctly was different, after figuring out GM was the basic options codes. I changed my digit that indicates what gearbox it is to the manuals digit, and I re-calculated the checksums with NCS expert ..

I used NCS expert with a edibias cable to recode IKE, EWS, DSC with the new GM number and checksum, and recoded all the other modules except the DME with NCS expert... so at this point all errors were gone and dash was clear... after this I used the GT1 with Progman(sss) (thanks to my buddy Gez!) .. to reprogram the DME... at this point if you have not wired in the clutch sensor yet, do not fear. turn the key and hold it there for exactly 4 seconds, it will bypass looking for the clutch sensor and start anyways. have a look at the wiring diagram for your dme to wire up the clutch sensor to avoid this problem..

all is 100% now, vehicle order changed, all errors gone, no modules reporting looking for the auto box anymore..

by the way, after we updated the software on the DME from auto to manual software, the car gained SO MUCH POWER ITS NOT EVEN FUNNY. wow, what a difference... wadamn !

[540ess]

Clutchplate, did you manage to get the reversing lights to work too, as they should be? And how?

You see, I have all the hardware to transform my 97 540ia to manual, but have not started the job yet. Looking for some information first :)

As I understand, did you not have to tell the DME the new GM number?
I do not want to reprogram the DME as you did, as it already have software for my ESS superscharger, and the car got real throttle wire so I guess there is nothing more to get..

The start relay, did you just set + from ignition lock start position to pin 8 on the relay (blue/black wire) not kutting anything?

The NCS expert, is it a program all BMW dealers should have?

Thanks for any reply

[flumoxed]

Great guide, I'll keep this thread in mind if i decide to do a manual swap (maybe in a few years :D)

[clutchplate]

Hi 540ess :)

this is what I had to do ..

to get the car started after the auto to manual swop, all I did was bridge the positive ignition wire to the black/blue wire you speak of, I did not cut the black/blue wire, simply just sheer some plastic off it and bridge it to any positive ignition wire.. that will get the car to start, but you will have the "trans fail program" error message come up on your display when you switch the car on..

I don't know how your going to get your reverse lights to work without re-programming the DME, IKE(kombi) and EWS..

see what I did was, I got a Edibias cable, read the GM/SA/VN number off the EWS and IKE with the "NCS Expert" program.. and then I changed the GM(standard equipment) number sothat the car thinks its manual, then I used NCS Expert to calculate new checksums. Then I used the Code Module function in NCS Expert to Re-Program the New GM/SA/VN numbers into the IKE(kombi/cluster) and EWS modules...

After I did that, I use the bmw GT1 (dis) with the SSS software to re-program the DME.. see you have to re-program the IKE(cluster) and the EWS first because when you program the DME the SSS software reads the GM/SA/VN and VIN numbers off the IKE and EWS modules...

You can buy Edibias/INPA cables on Ebay, but the GT1 is very expensive, ALL BMW dealers will have the GT1 and SSS, but they definetly won't have the Edibias cables, because only the BMW factories use that.

So your best bet is to buy the Edibias/INPA cable from ebay and re-program your modules, and then goto bmw to get the DME re-programmed.. unfortunatly you have ESS software :/ .. which is a pity..
what you can do is get the ESS guys or wherever you get the supercharger from to give you the Manual version of the software for your DME. I don't know how it would work :/ what exactly does the ESS tune entail ? is it only software/a chip ?

on the other hand, what you could do, take the sensor wire from the reverse switch on the gearbox and run it thru a relay, and connect the relay sothat it switches on your reverse lights directly...
that is one easy fix that you could do, or get any auto-electrician to do for you.. if you had the manual software on your DME you could just wire the reverse light switch to the DME directly.

the only other thing you have to do if you updated your software to manual is to run the clutch sensor to the DME. the pinouts for this are on the BMW WDS(wiring diagram system) all online.

If you can send me your GM/SA/VN numbers, I can re-calculate them for you with the correct checksums.. It took me 2months to figure out how to do all this :/ .. was a mission, but afterwards it all seamed so easy. Lol.

I hope you come right, send some pics :) or a video.. would love to see your car with that supercharger :)

[sammcj]

I just PM'd you this but I think perhaps it might be handy for other people to see if they're having problems too:

Hey,

I saw your post about GM/SA coding.
I have done a Manual trans swap into my 1996 E36 328i Coupe (OBD1)
We recoded my GM to say that it is now a manual (we compaired mine with a few off other DME's on the net) and reflashed the DME.
We also reprogrammed my ZCS and we tried to program the Kombi but it didn't respond because my car is OBD1


Problems I'm having:
-DME is still trying to talk to the trans computer, giving errors saying the solinoids aren't responding etc...
-Car is revving up 600~RPM during gear changes.
-Might be lacking a bit of power?
-Hesitation at low RPM (there are no vac leaks)

Any help you're able to provide me would be much appreciated, this has been doing my head in the past few months.

11b20700(b) changed to 11a20700(8).

[Thradya]

Does anyone have Dave Kan's transmission swap guide saved somewhere? The site is down and I can't find any other guide :|

[540ess]

I just PM'd you this but I think perhaps it might be handy for other people to see if they're having problems too:

Hey,

I saw your post about GM/SA coding.
I have done a Manual trans swap into my 1996 E36 328i Coupe (OBD1)
We recoded my GM to say that it is now a manual (we compaired mine with a few off other DME's on the net) and reflashed the DME.
We also reprogrammed my ZCS and we tried to program the Kombi but it didn't respond because my car is OBD1


Problems I'm having:
-DME is still trying to talk to the trans computer, giving errors saying the solinoids aren't responding etc...
-Car is revving up 600~RPM during gear changes.
-Might be lacking a bit of power?
-Hesitation at low RPM (there are no vac leaks)

Any help you're able to provide me would be much appreciated, this has been doing my head in the past few months.

11b20700(b) changed to 11a20700(8).

I have now recoded my e39, but the DME is still looking for the auto. I still have auto software in the DME, so I guess there is the reason. The only problem I have is that the cruice controll does not work.(same reason I hope)

[HawaiianKong]

I don't normally bump an antiquated thread (this would be my first), but there seems to be a lot of fragmented information across this and a few other threads regarding the electronics side of an auto-to-manual swap.

For the following, assume that one will not be swapping engines, using a standalone system, or doing anything else electronically abnormal:

1) For earlier model E34 cars ('88-93), after the mechanical side is completed, all that's needed is a new cluster and you're set, right?

2) For a later model E34 ('94-96), the information I'm taking away is that only the DME/cluster need to be reprogrammed with profiles from the DME/cluster of a manual E34 car, correct? Or are there more/less modules to contend with?

3) Would the reprogramming of these two modules keep the cruise control and ASC functioning correctly, or would these be separate cases?

4) With the '94-96 cars, I'm taking away that simply swapping the mechanical parts and then bypassing the Park/Neutral interlock will allow the car to start and run, but you will gets error codes plus reverse/mirrors/cruise will not work, correct?

If there is any more information to be had regarding only the electronics of an E34 swap, please let me know. I have the means to begin a swap soon on my beloved wagon, and not only would I like to do it correctly and methodically, but I'd also like to put together a detailed and comprehensive step-by-step write-up similar to what Heavy Throttle had done with a 240sx SR20DET/MT swap (now defunct). For example, I'd like to include steps such as "If you have a '93 or below, stop here", or "if you don't care about transmission error codes, you can take this shortcut..."

Thanks in advance and hoping for a reply!

[e34Mpower525i]

anybody know what the difference between an e34 525i m50 nonvanos manual and auto driveshaft is? thanks

[HawaiianKong]

anybody know what the difference between an e34 525i m50 nonvanos manual and auto driveshaft is? thanks

Length. The auto trans is longer, and therefore uses a shorter driveshaft.

[attack eagle]

posted 7/06

anybody know what the difference between an e34 525i m50 nonvanos manual and auto driveshaft is? thanks

yes, length, rear flange and if getrag DS front flange.

but you already knew that, so why did you post here? laziness or attention seeking.
posted 6/29

The getrag in my 525 e34 went bad so I bought a zf to put in it as everyone know the zf has a bigger output flange so I was thinking i'd just get the driveshaft out of an m3 e36 and it should bolt up but I've been hearing its not long enough anyone know if this is true and or any solutions? Dunno if I could just change the output flanges without taking the whole trans apart? I would appreciate any help thanks. Also heard a rumor that m50 non vanos e34s came with a zf don't know if anyone knows if this is true or not if so could just use one of those Driveshafts

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=24713850

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1880809

[Bgbimmer21]

A/E on a roll today!! lulzing

[bobush]

Hello. I know this is a very old thread but if what you say is correct I may have wasted the last 3years fitting a bmw motor into a jag mk2. I fitted a 1996 e39 / 6 cylinder tds motor complete with its auto box into my 1967 jaguar mk2. The ecu had to be chipped to remove the ews system to get the motor running. It runs fine. My project is almost finished and hope to connect the prop in in the next week or so. I have no drive at the prop. No foreword or reverse. The gearbox eco is fitted to the car but there are no speed sensors dash or abs fitted as its a 50 year old car. I'm hope there is a way around getting the box to work as I have spent lots of time and money getting it to the point of "almost" completion. My only option may be suicide!! How can i work round the auto box electronics?