ABS Code Descriptions Needed

[TexasBMW]

ABS light continuously illuminated and I had the ABS codes read by a local shop. They advised the codes 17, 33, 113, 114, 120.

Codes 17 and 30 refer to a defective inlet/outlet valve per his machine manual, but it doesn't specify which one, although none are likely repairable in any case. Probably a new ABS pump.

Codes, 113, 114, and 120 refer to wheel speed sensor defects per his manual, but don't identify which wheel.

Does anyone have more detailed descriptions which point out which speed sensors are bad?

ABS quit w/i a few days, from intermittent to continuously illuminated ABS. It's hard to believe all these components failed simultaneously.

Does ABS reset and check for faults on each start-up?

Thanks

[DeanP]

I had fault for one wheel sensor, the dealer told which one, after I replaced it the light went on it's own. Sorry I can't break down the codes for you. Maybe there is way to tell which code came first and fix that.

[Shoe Coupe]

I got a code 17....stupid crappy BMW abs pumps.

[TexasBMW]

ABS Pump Repair (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125355&highlight=abs+bleeding)

See above link for ABS pump repair. I suspect the thin film circuit was not the problem, rather he had a "cold" solder joint. Solder is notorious for cracking and losing electical continuity at a solder joint. It's a fatigue problem due to thermal cycling usually.

I plan to check the used pump I purchased and "touch up" the solder joints if needed. A good magnifying glass is needed to inspect the joints.

Here's another link I found on diagnostics for the Teves Mark IV ABS pump.

Teves Mark IV Diagnostic Manual (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125355&highlight=abs+bleeding)

I found that attempting to print the manual caused squares to be printed instead of text. However, if you print page by page, it prints fine. This was a google-find.

good luck

[Wayne@PelicanParts]

If you're getting all of these failures, it may be the controller, or the wire harness that goes to the ABS controller. You're right - it's unlikely that this would fail like this all of a sudden. Have you done any recent electrical work on your car?

-Wayne

[TexasBMW]

Nothing near the ABS controller. I had the ignition harness connector near keyswitch come loose and kill the car dead as a hammer. I took a while to find the problem and loose connector, but I was working on the opposite side from the ABS.

I did do some poking around on that side trying to locate the Ignition Lock Relay (theft protection) and could have disturbed something.

My plan is to pull the ABS controller and attempt to verify the wiring links to the ABS pump and verify the sensor resistance to the connector. Is this possible w/o an adapter harness and breakout box? From the resources above and Bentley I know the pin locations and what to check.

Regards

[TexasBMW]

I've repaired my 94 318is ABS unit,... finally. The keys were finding the diagnostic manual for the Teves Mark IV and the ease of releasing the 55-pin connector to the ABS controller. It has a very nice hinged latch which releases the connector w/ little effort and plenty of "slack" harness to allow you to drop down and use the connector as your own break out box.

I ran the diagnostics in the manual using wire jumpers to cross-connnect pins of the 55-pin connector. Everything checked OK except the Rear Axle Inlet Valve (solenoid). It showed 500 ohms when should have been 6-8 ohms. The earlier post by Matt325 in the following thread suggested the likley fault was the thin film wiring to the solenoids.

ABS Repair Thread (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125355&highlight=abs+bleeding)

I removed the ABS w/o too much difficulty. I found it necessary to remove the intake box/duct and lower the evaporative emissions cannister from it's mounting to gain access. Surprisingly, the tubing connections to the ABS were not super-tight as I've frequently found on other vehicles. I was able to easily break w/ regular open-end 11mm wrench. The supply lines from the brake fluid reservoir are a PIA due to the permanent hose clamps which must be released w/ a dremel tool to grind away the retaining tab. Hoses are still very hard to release.

On my work bench, I opened the ABS pump/valve assembly by removing the base cover. This exposed the 6 solenoid valves and thin film wiring harness. It was not apparent which was the Rear Axle Inlet valve. I had to check resistances across each until I found the failed valve. A close visual w/ a powerful magnifying glass revealed no obvious flaws in the solder joints or thin film circuit. I got intermittent results by touching the thin film circuit. I tried re-soldering with no improvement. After reviewing Matt325's photos, I was unsure of the wiring arrangement and did not want to take the time to re-wire the entire solenoid set. It's very tedious and difficult to splice in wire as he's done. Wire must be restrained to contact pin to allow soldering and in tight quarters it takes time, a surgeon's hands, and patience to accomplish. I tip my hat to Matt's patience. I decided on a hybrid scheme. I clipped the damaged thin film lead short and covered ends w/ tape and bridged two wires over the flawed thin film circuit to the single solenoid. Still took me an hour to accomplish to my satisfaction. I re-checked all the resistances to the outlet plug on the ABS pump/valve assembly (Bentley is handy here to identify the connector pins by the numbers on the connector. )

Re-installation was uneventful, except for mighty exertions and loud oaths to coax the supply lines from the brake fluid reservoir back into place.

After installation, I rechecked all resistances to 55-pin connector again. All OK. BTW, I found all the wheel sensors checked OK.

I was bitterly disappointed when I started the car and dreaded ABS light did not go off. Then I remembered an incident during breadboarding on the 55-pin connector. I accidentally grounded the power lead (pin 2) briefly and had forgotten. When I checked, I had burn't out the ABS 10A fuse. New fuse and finally NO ABS LIGHT.

It's been a long pull, but I've learned a lot about ABS. Fundamentally, ABS is quite simple. The BMW 94 318is, Pump/Valve assembly is 6 solenoid valves and a pump. Once the 55-pin connector is available, it's easy to check the health of this unit, and wheel sensors. The Teves Mark IV manual I found provides the specs, but even w/o you could puzzle your way ahead w/ the Bentley wiring diagram.

Regards

[Shoe Coupe]

I cant seem to find the Teves Mark IV manual you mention in these threads anywhere, is it an actual manual or a write up that mat325 did?

[TexasBMW]

Teves Mk IV Manual (http://www.autodiagnos.com/multitester/manuals/teves4eng.pdf)

Here's the link. I forgot to include. Let me know if you need any help.

regards

[Shoe Coupe]

Thank you so much texas bmw!


Question for you, I had the ABS 50 pin connector disconnected from the ABs computer when i was trying to mess with it and I cycled my ignition without the 50 pin connector being plugged in, is this going to cause any problems or unnecessary ABS codes that shouldnt have gone off otherwise?


In otherwords, by accidentally leaving the abs connector off and cycling the ignition did i screw anything up or cause any unncessary codes?

[dave45056]

The Teves link is dead. Can someone e-mail the doc to me at ordway.dc@pg.com?
Thanks!

[Shoe Coupe]

sure I have it still

here you go

http://personal.linkline.com/sevan/photos/teves.pdf

[vpg]

what is code 71 abs system

[medic1dl]

You're better off without the ABS. Just take the light bulb out of the cluster so it's not shining in your face.

[mrgraybeard]

Thanks very much for the link to the Teves troubleshooting manual. I've been searching the Web for weeks for information like this.