DIY: Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement (M62TU)

[BlackBMWs]

Here's a DIY Garrett wrote up for replacing the Main Timing chain tensioner for M62TU motors. I pulled it out of a thread for easier reference in the E39 DIY section. :cool


Here is the very complicated procedure:

1. remove air box. One visible bolt holds the box to the chassis. One hose clamp to the hfm and one hose clamp to the intake tube (down under the box).
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01636.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01637.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01638.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01639.jpg

2. remove tensioner. the tensioner is down below the valve cover on the left side of the motor. There is an A/C line that runs right in front of it (making it a bit difficult to access).
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01640.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01641.jpg

Put a rag under the tensioner, as it contains oil and some will spill. Using a 19mm socket (long or short w/ wobble extension), unscrew the tensioner.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01642.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01643.jpg

It is under some spring and hydraulic pressure so it will kinda pop out once it is unthreaded. Remove it, the old seal ring and the rag. Clean-up any spilled oil on the motor (even a little bit will stink once baked).
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01644.jpg

3. replace tensioner.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01635.jpg

Take the new tensioner with new seal ring and try to place it in the bore without getting the new tensioner dirty with crud as you feel around for the bore.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01644.jpg

The new tensioner is under a bit of spring pressure, so you will have to press it into the bore with some force and compress it to the point where the threads will engage, while at the same time turning it clockwise to screw it in. This takes a little bit of dexterity/coordination, but you'll get the hang of it. Once tight, give your wrench a good solid tug to get her "good-n-tight" and deform the seal ring.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01643.jpg


4. replace the airbox.
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01639.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01638.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01637.jpg
http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01636.jpg

5. start the motor. You'll hear a bit of noise for a few seconds and then it should quiet down nicely. Let her idle for a little while and then check to make sure there is no oil leaking from the seal ring.

Tag team fixed. :cool

[Fiziks]

Awesome, I'll be doing this soon. Can a mod move to the DIY section?

[jamesdc4]

Excellent job!!!

[Orxan4ik]

is M62 the same?

[jamesdc4]

is M62 the same?
Orkhan,

From some of the threads I read on this, I believe the guide rails are slightly different, but I don't know about the tensioner. I'll PM Garret and see if he knows and post back. :)

[Orxan4ik]

Orkhan,

From some of the threads I read on this, I believe the guide rails are slightly different, but I don't know about the tensioner. I'll PM Garret and see if he knows and post back. :)



James, that is for the input man - you always come through (: would you also happen to know the part number for the tensioner? This way I could check if it's the same for all years. Sorry for being lazy, I'm posting on my phone (:

[jamesdc4]

James, that is for the input man - you always come through (: would you also happen to know the part number for the tensioner? This way I could check if it's the same for all years. Sorry for being lazy, I'm posting on my phone (:
NP, man! :)
Both Garret and Rich didn't know for sure if the procedure is the same for the M62, but they both thought it would be similar.
I couldn't find the part number either because I ran out of time. I'm building a play set for my kids right now and they are demanding it be done last week. :rolleyes
One thing is for sure. I never stop learning on this forum. I just discovered that the E39s up to 9/1997 have the M60. I didn't know that.

[Orxan4ik]

NP, man! :)
Both Garret and Rich didn't know for sure if the procedure is the same for the M62, but they both thought it would be similar.
I couldn't find the part number either because I ran out of time. I'm building a play set for my kids right now and they are demanding it be done last week. :rolleyes
One thing is for sure. I never stop learning on this forum. I just discovered that the E39s up to 9/1997 have the M60. I didn't know that.

I have 5/97, its M62 :D

[tcbond]

This is what I needed! I'm in Europe and it's hard to get information and parts....at least not as easy as in the states!

[jamesdc4]

I have 5/97, its M62 :D
Yeah. I double checked on realoem and they are all M62s. WTF? Nevermind.

[f355spider]

I am curious as to the success rate for folks that replaced this, if it solved the cold start rattle?

[Orxan4ik]

I am curious as to the success rate for folks that replaced this, if it solved the cold start rattle?

not really, however the old one had less tension than the new one. Then again, everything new WILL have more of an original characteristic than anything used, so idk. For $50 bucks and 10 mins, I say do it.

[pimpstaty5y]

Thanks for the write-up. Which part number did you use. I am looking to replace this part as my 540i does also make the rattling/grinding noise on startup. However when I search timing chain tension I get a few options.

[Bucky540m]

what website have you guys been going through to get the tensioner?

[BlackBMWs]

what website have you guys been going through to get the tensioner?

I got mine at www.eactuning.com (http://www.eactuning.com). I had questions and spoke to Jared, who's always real helpful... :cool

[pimpstaty5y]

Took me about 30 mins earlier today to get it done. Best part is it solved my cold rattle/grinding noise 100%!

[RDR-EURO]

Just finish installing my new timing chain tensioner on my 540i. Now when I start up my car. It is rattle free and it only took 10 mins to installed!:redspot

[pimpstaty5y]

Update: Car still rattles on startup :mad

[BlackBMWs]

ny plastic debris in your oilpan? :(

[sarum]

FYI:
I was able to do it with a deep socket and without using a wobble extension
for those without a wobble extension, you dont need to buy one.

but if you have one it makes it easier so you should use it

also
a small tip for using a wobble extension most mechanics know and do,, and that is to put some tape around the wobble knuckle so it only wobbles a little and not a lot :)
some people will know what i mean when trying to use that extension and it binds on itself cause it moves too much

[flipwils11]

Bought the new tensioner weeks ago and finally got motivated to put it in last night. Very easy, about 30 minutes of work. I was motivated to do it by some of the testimony and info on this board which helped a lot, even though I didn't think I had any noise from my car.

My car just turned over 70k.

Having the airbox out was a good opportunity to clean out some sand and grime sitting in the bottom of it, and refill my high intensity headlight cleaning fluid tank as well.

Gearing up for the marathon valley pan gasket (and other "as long as we're in here" items) replacement soon, also using great info available on this forum.

[f355spider]

Replaced today with new tensioner and aluminum sealing washer. Nasty noises on first start up. ;) All is well after it filled with oil. Not sure if this will really save us from impending disaster of the timing chain rails, but for $54 in parts, what the hell, it may have bought a bit of "peace of mind"... :)

[ganzibye]

very nice write up but when do i need to replace the tensioner?

[billzcat1]

Hello All -

Still bored and thought of providing possibly useful tidbits of information. I had the "marbles on startup" that plagues many M62s and on the advice of the search, replaced the timing chain tensioner.

The job was simple. 4 clips on the airbox lid, 2 clips on the MAF and the lid comes off. Then there is one hose clamp and one 10mm bolt for the airbox bottom and it slides right out making plenty of clearance to access the tensioner. 19mm socket, 1" extension, and a 3/8" ratchet and it was out. 5 minutes out, 5 minutes in. Solved the problem!

I did pause in the middle of the job to take a picture of old vs new. The way that the tensioner works is that it is supplied with oil pressure to press on a large plastic guide that the timing chain slides against. It's pretty much the same way timing chain tensioners have worked for a very long time. This maintains proper chain tension while the car is running. However, when the car is shut off, the oil pressure slowly drains out of the tensioner unit and develops slack in the chain. To combat this, the tensioner has a spring inside that takes up the slack when there is no oil pressure. In the new unit, this spring was robust. In the old unit, the spring felt non-existent. Check the difference in free-length! Old on the left, new on the right. It's pretty obvious the difference this will make in the function of the device.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj154/billzcat1/DSCF0298.jpg

Sorry for the blurry pic. For some reason my camera wouldn't do a fill-flash so I went with the steadiest hand I could.

On startup, it made quite a clatter for 3 of the longest seconds of my life, then immediately quieted down once it built pressure. In retrospect, I should have soaked it in oil like a hydraulic lifter to fill it with oil before install and it probably would have prevented the clatter.

I am pleased to report that the cold-start marble effect is nearly eliminated. I say nearly because after sitting 3 days (I have been sick and haven't left the house) it made roughly 1 click on start up. It is almost imperceptible and is 99.5% better than before I did the job.

This may be more than anyone has written about the timing chain tensioner, but I hope it proves useful to someone. Now that I know how bad the old one was, I wish I had done this job sooner.

[CSMBlack-540i]

Thanks for the nice writeup. Glad you're feeling better. However, this was covered 6 months ago in the DIY section by Rich aka BlackBMWs. It's a sticky there.
(http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233696)

[billzcat1]

Yes, I read the DIY. I added my commentary and the one picture I thought mattered. This job does not need 20 pictures to explain. ;) I mostly wanted to comment on how the tensioner functioned and how that related to the new/old units.

[BimmerBreaker]

Great before/after picture, interesting stuff

[02540ico]

Great info, thanks!

[mvolpigno]

Thanks for the post, I've had the "marbles problem" for a while now, and have been trying to figure out what was behind it. I've suspected a Vanos issue, but this sounds like a reasonable cause. As easy a job as you describe it to be, might as well get after it.

Mike Volpigno
2001 540i / 6

[pimpstaty5y]

I replaced this a few months back, the rattle went away for a few startups but came back later, and my car still makes the rattling noise on startup :dunno Anyone have any suggestions for this? Other than replacing the guides :help

[billzcat1]

Easy AND fairly cheap.
11317531813
$58.70 from www.bmwpartzdirect.com

[jubjub]

I just replaced mine today. billzcat did you open both units and compare the springs? The new one had a different design spring and it was about a 1/2" longer than the old.

[02540ico]

I replaced mine Wed night, about a 15min job. I had a slight, muffled rattle on startup after sitting 6-8hrs or more. No rattle Thur morning! :)
Hopefully I get no rattle tomorrow morning when I fire her up.

[billzcat1]

No I didn't look at the springs. I could tell it had one because it did have a slight springy-ness but I didn't pull it apart to look.

[firehawk618]

Mine is doing this same thing, at least I hope so!

Does it kinda sound like a rod knock / rattling for about 1 second when it's started cold?

Oh yeah, thanks for the explanation / photos!

[patrick houston]

Thanks for the tip, I have been looking for some PM to do on the car. Any excuse to wrench lol.

[billzcat1]

Mine is doing this same thing, at least I hope so!

Does it kinda sound like a rod knock / rattling for about 1 second when it's started cold?

Oh yeah, thanks for the explanation / photos!

You got it! I also noted a considerable improvement when I did my first oil change. I went from whatever goo the PO had put in there for some Amsoil 5W-40 European Formula. It felt good to put good oil in this car. It didn't cure it, but it did reduce the noise ~50%. This job would be the cure.

The DIY explanation has about 2 dozen pictures of the job. The most important one from that DIY is...

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp105/BlackBMWs/540it%20-%20DIY%20M62TUB44%20Timing%20Chain/DSC01643.jpg

...because it shows the location of this part (front, passenger side of engine) and one way of attacking it. If you have a short 1-2" extension, it will be easier than with the wobble joint because you can easily compress the spring as you tighten it into the hole.

[firehawk618]

I did some work to my car today and removed it. Definitely needs a new one. While I had it out I stretched the spring a little bit and the rattle at idle got much quieter for a few minutes then back to normal rattle.....ordering one now.

[billzcat1]

It's probably not going to cure your rattle at idle. M62s naturally have a bit of valvetrain noise, but a full-on rattle at idle might indicate all your guides are bad. The rattle this cure is the the brief rattle on start-up as it builds oil pressure and tensions the chain.

The timing chain guides aren't the end of the world. A friend of mine had a 318i with the M42 motor. Fundamentally, the architecture is pretty similar to the M62. Anyway he got it at 210k with the worst timing chain rattle ever and upon teardown, we found EVERYTHING in the timing chain system was broken/damaged. Guides, tensioner, crank gear, cam gear, chain. Replaced it all and the motor ran like a freakin top even though it had been driven into the ground by the idiot previous owner.

My point here is that while doing preventative maintenance is the right way to go, BMW builds these motors pretty robustly and you probably won't do any irreparable/major damage by not addressing it immediately.

[jamesdc4]

Thanks for the nice writeup. Glad you're feeling better. However, this was covered 6 months ago in the DIY section by Rich aka BlackBMWs. It's a sticky there.
(http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1233696)
I'm not sure why this thread was never towed to the DIY section. :embarrasm
*towed*
:)

[CSMBlack-540i]

I'm not sure why this thread was never towed to the DIY section. :embarrasm
*towed*
:)

:coolBecause you m:rolleyesds fell into a food coma from too much TURKEY! :devillook

[jamesdc4]

:coolBecause you m:rolleyesds fell into a food coma from too much TURKEY! :devillook
Hey. At least I somehow managed to add it to the DIY Quick Links list. :stickoutt

[gofishkie]

Can anyone tell me where I can find the DIY for a different E39 motor, ie: M50/2?

[f355spider]

Now that it has been a couple months since I replaced the tensioner, I can report that my car is largely cured of the cold start rattle. It used to do it on about 25 to 30% of my cold starts. Now it does it probably less than 10% and the rattle is VERY faint. Well worth doing for me.

[boondocksaint]

I didn't have a cold start rattle but I do have a bit of a rattle once it's warm. I just did this anyway for preventive maintenance. I tightened it down but I did not give it the "solid tug" at the end. Do I need to unbutton it and do this? It seemed to be lenty tight, and I observed no leak from that area.

[jamesdc4]

Now that it has been a couple months since I replaced the tensioner, I can report that my car is largely cured of the cold start rattle. It used to do it on about 25 to 30% of my cold starts. Now it does it probably less than 10% and the rattle is VERY faint. Well worth doing for me.
Same results here.

[f355spider]

What I don't understand is why the BMW dealers and independent repair shops are not aware of this fix. Granted it does not seem to fix the problem 100%, but I would guess at least 50% of the time it does...my car started doing it around 60k or 70k, and I did not have it replaced until 130k or so. Obviously this must be a wear part that should be periodically replaced.

[Camarok]

Subscribed

[08BMWreloaded]

can anyone confirm if this is the same procedure for the M62's?

thanks

[Toms540i]

can anyone confirm if this is the same procedure for the M62's?

thanks

yes its the same

[08BMWreloaded]

Thanks for this DIY! Just did mine today on my 540iA. Took me 30mins.

[BlackBMWs]

So, I've replaced tensioners on my M42, M30, M50 and M62TU. Basically all the same procedure once you get to it. Solved a cold startup rattle on the M42 at 140k. Same for the M50 at 200k.

Easy and quick to do. :cool

[m5james]

very nice write up but when do i need to replace the tensioner?

Good question that never got answered.

[billzcat1]

Replace when you hear a brief start-up rattle which quickly quiets itself. There isn't a specified service interval.

[m5james]

Thankfully my 98 7 has a completely rebuilt engine w/ no VANOS, and my 01 X hasn't had any engine issues as of yet. This is just good preventative maintenance for a decent price while already tearing into an engine or while doing simple things like changing the oil and/or air filters.

[sickdeathshappe]

thanks everybody, i got a diagram from the website: www.bmwpartscounter.com (http://www.bmwpartscounter.com) #9 is the tensioner. however, i was wondering if anybody replaced the whole assembly. i got the cold rattle noise, sounds like a pulley tensioner but im pretty sure its the timing chain tensioner because the noise goes away after a minute, being the oilpressure builds up. what do you think?

I found a spring that supposed to be the spring for the timing chain tensioner, is this right, http://www.eactuning.com/ssf/part_number_search/11%2041%201%20706%20809 they want 4 bucks.. Is it supposed to replace the tensioner's spring?

[Geralt]

I found a spring that supposed to be the spring for the timing chain tensioner, is this right, http://www.eactuning.com/ssf/part_number_search/11%2041%201%20706%20809 they want 4 bucks.. Is it supposed to replace the tensioner's spring?

Have you compared it with the old OEM spring? It WILL be a bit longer, but it also gives me one idea. A lot of us changed the tensioner to get rid of that phukin' rattle on startup and it almost had no effect (more or less). What if you put another spring that is even more longer and stiffer. You know....., just to push the tensioner even more against the chain. Keep it there for a few days and listen to the engine upon startups. Anyone interested, huh? :devillook

BTW: The spring in the pic doesn't look like the one from the tensioner if I remember correctly.

[boondocksaint]

I gotta wonder about some things. I replaced my tensioner in January, and I now have a rattle for about two seconds upon startup that sounds like chain slap. Are new tensioners known to fail? Is there some particular way the tensioner is supposed to be installed, like is that hole in the metal piston supposed to face a certain direction? Something's definitely fishy, and I can't see why I'd have the noise with a new tensioner after it was gone for two months.

Any ideas?

[handson]

Hi everyone. I just registered today but I've been snooping around for quite some time.

I posted earlier but it doesn't seem to have made it through. So here's my second, shorter attempt:

Regarding the chain tensioner, is it possible for it to also cause an oil leak?

I'm not a BMW owner yet, but I'm considering a very clean 2001 530i 5spd auto with 132, 600 miles and an front engine oil leak that spans the steering rack onto the inner part of the CV boots on both sides (had it on a lift at the dealer but splash pan was in place). My brother thinks it's an older leak (kinda gritty/grimy) but there is some new oil over it. It also has the described "cold start rattle".

I'm hoping the leak could be something as minor as the tensioner (worn seal ring perhaps) and not a front main/crank seal. Or should I be looking somewhere else on the engine? Or forget this candidate all together?

This is a really great site. Thanks for any help.

John

P.S. I also have my eye on a 1999 528i 6spd manual, 116,200 miles. Checking it out on Saturday.

[m5james]

The M62 is the V8, and you're asking about the I6. You'll have better luck using the search feature and/or spending time over on the 3 series boards when it comes to engine issues. They share the same engine as both of the cars you're talking about, not to mention there are thousands more 3 series cars out there vs just about any other BMW on the road.

[boondocksaint]

Well, here's something folks can check if the noise/rattle is intermittent.

Make sure your oil filter is properly seated. Mine was not. Apparently there's a check valve underneath it or soemthing. Anyways, I (knocking on wood) haven't heard the noise since my indie reseated my oil filter and such. He says it's good to go. So far, he's right.

Not saying this is common. Just saying to check it if you aren't sure.

[P11]

I just installed my tensioner today and I wanted to give everyone a little tip to help eliminate the 5 sec startup rattle. Before installing the tensioner open it up to the point where you can see the spring and fill it 50% of the way with fresh synthetic oil, reassemble and install. (don't worry if some oil comes dripping out...the point is too create pressure in the spring chamber)

[supark]

anyone know of a DIY write up on replacing the guide rails?

[sickdeathshappe]

Hey I was wondering because of this rattle, Does that mean the guide rails, timing chain, tensioner all need to be replace? because its worn? i got 48K miles

[Luftpost]

Make sure your oil filter is properly seated. Mine was not. Apparently there's a check valve underneath it or soemthing. Anyways, I (knocking on wood) haven't heard the noise since my indie reseated my oil filter and such. He says it's good to go. So far, he's right.

Can anyone expand on this??

[CSVT1214]

I just wanted to report on my tensioner issues:

I bought a new tensioner earlier this year to install to try and eliminate a random timing chain rattle on startup. A few people have posted saying when they removed their original tensioner, there was little to no resistance when compressing the spring inside the tensioner. After they replaced with a new tensioner, the noise was gone....

I removed mine and found the old tensioner and new tensioner had the exact same resistance when compressing the tensioner by hand. The springs both felt exactly the same. I decided to reinstall my original tensioner and planned on looking into other causes.

I didn't end up selling the new tensioner I bought so during my recent oil change I figured I would throw the new tensioner in for the hell of it. It couldn't hurt. They both still felt the same, but I installed it anyways.

The noise is gone! I'm kicking myself for not installing it sooner. The point of this post is to let everyone know the spring pressure may not have anything to do with the tensioner being bad. It works on oil pressure so the spring is not the critical part of this.

[autophile]

The noise is gone!


Is it still gone? I have an intermittent rattle on startup, and would like all the input I can get on whether this will cure it.

My 540i is a 4/99 build date with 116k miles.

[m5james]

Run 0w40 Mobil1 oil, maybe do an engine flush with Seafoam, and if all else fails, at least the tensioner replacement isn't a hard job and a far cheaper fix than replacing the VANOS.

[jnyost]

I just wanted to report on my tensioner issues:

I bought a new tensioner earlier this year to install to try and eliminate a random timing chain rattle on startup. A few people have posted saying when they removed their original tensioner, there was little to no resistance when compressing the spring inside the tensioner. After they replaced with a new tensioner, the noise was gone....

I removed mine and found the old tensioner and new tensioner had the exact same resistance when compressing the tensioner by hand. The springs both felt exactly the same. I decided to reinstall my original tensioner and planned on looking into other causes.

I didn't end up selling the new tensioner I bought so during my recent oil change I figured I would throw the new tensioner in for the hell of it. It couldn't hurt. They both still felt the same, but I installed it anyways.

The noise is gone! I'm kicking myself for not installing it sooner. The point of this post is to let everyone know the spring pressure may not have anything to do with the tensioner being bad. It works on oil pressure so the spring is not the critical part of this.

While the spring is the thing that people notice the most, don't forget that the clearances for the piston could be different from your old vs new. That will also improve the tension it applies.


Is it still gone? I have an intermittent rattle on startup, and would like all the input I can get on whether this will cure it.

My 540i is a 4/99 build date with 116k miles.

If you haven't replaced it, I would. They changed the spring and improved the design. It's easy and worth doing.

[f355spider]

Is it still gone? I have an intermittent rattle on startup, and would like all the input I can get on whether this will cure it.

My 540i is a 4/99 build date with 116k miles.

The part is around $55, and potentially can also protect your chain rails from damage as well. Whether it gets rid of the start up rattle or not, consider it "preventive maintenance".

It worked for me on my 540. It greatly reduced the incidence of the start up rattle, and the few times it still happens, it is much quieter.

[dbautomotive]

Hello,

New to this site and to BMW.
I build, repair, and customize many other makes but, like I said, new to BMW.
My 99 540i all of a sudden started making a noise like a rattle or even a bad tick (can't really decifer) from right in the front of the passenger side head like under the oil filler cap.
Could it be the tensioner? would it be a good place to start?
Please help, its a wicked cool car and I just want it to be somewhat nice to me... at least until I get more familier.

Thanks,
Eddie

[ozibimmer]

Hi Guys
I am going to change my tensioner this coming week, My question is I have that normal tapping noise that the M62TU V8 is known for but my noise continues while the car is warmed up. The previous own had the Guide rail and Chain replaced as well as Vanos Solenoid seal replaced.
Has any of you guys that have the continue tapping noise noticed a long term noise reduction from changing the Tensioner.
Also does the Tensioner replacement kit come with all the seals needed or do I have to order them as well.
Any help would be great
Thanks guys
Addam

[FR540I]

Was there a rattling noise that developed before replacing tensioner. What I read on this forum that the VANOS may be bad. Researched all nite and could not find info about 1999 540i VANOS only tensioners and guides.

[polecat]

i did the repair also
I had a rattle last winter and when i reved the engine it souded like something broke loose the rattle got really worse
I thought it was the oil beeding from the tensioner i GUESS ill have to drop the pan and check for plastic in the oil pan :(

[bosanci28]

so to clarify this for me,

are this tensioner's oem? that we purchase from online?

i have a 2001 bmw x5 v8 and i have the 3-4 sec knocking/rattle then it goes away,

(i have 170k miles)


i had the x5 for about 1 year 1/2 and did change oil with some full syntetic brand and oil filter some brand from kragen,
and few days ago when the time come up to change oil ,i purchased the oem bmw filter and oil.
so now i want to test few days if that knocking/rattle went away,,from what i was reading in the forum,oil may have to do with it also.

but i may change that tensioner also,now are they oem or any of them are okay to buy?

thanks....

[boondocksaint]

11-31-7-531-813-M36 is the part number. Febi makes them aftermarket, which (for this particular part) are rated excellent according to PelicanParts user reviews (though I don't know how that data is aggregated). Some of their other stuff is meh. ~$60, plus get a new seal for a buck or whatever. Seal PN: 07-11-9-963-355-M131.

The part number on realoem is 11317531813 (the same one) but it lists for $80.

Just ask EAC Tuning or another forum vendor for assistance to make sure you get the exact right part. They're pretty helpful cats, and that's the way I'd go.

[ptikkala]

i did the tensioner replacement and the old one had dead spring. but now when i cold start the engine i hear rattle for second. Didnt do that with the old one :(. ive driven the car after the change about 10miles, wondering if it just takes time to "settle" there or is there something wrong. There is no oil leaking from the tensioner hole. Thanks in advance. Good guides -> easy job! Thanks!

[Mighty Shilling]

Just did this today. Easy job. Took all of 10 minutes including coffee break. As I was pulling the old one, I had the new one soaking in oil. New one went in just fine and there was no rattle at start up. Used an OEM tensioner I picked up at the dealer for $62.14.

[topaz540i]

this fix doesnt seem to address the rattle.

the rattle isnt actually the chain. its the vanos gear wobbling on the camshaft.
there is a new Beisan Systems vanos kit coming out soon.

[jnyost]

this fix doesnt seem to address the rattle.

the rattle isnt actually the chain. its the vanos gear wobbling on the camshaft.
there is a new Beisan Systems vanos kit coming out soon.

We've had several customers replace the entire camshaft sprockets and not have it help. Only one customer that I can remember came back and said that it helped.

[fullthrottle540]

Got the febi for $65 out the door, at my local euro parts store.

It made a hell of a difference in engine sound! My engine no longer makes a ticking noise. It just purrs now.

My old tensioner (100k miles) was stuck closed!! Literally had no spring action!!

Thanks for posting it. This job is a MUST DO for e39's and only takes 30 minutes!!

[chillax5]

Does this fix the tap noise at warm idle? Or is it strictly a cure for cold start rattle.

[guttershark]

My old tensioner was stuck closed as well, with the spring compressed.
I would say I had 1/2 - 1 second of start up noise, maybe 20% of times.
Now I have maybe 1/2 second noise, about 5% of times.

[BEAST 5]

Which way.does the.spring go the.larger.size facing.the.outside.of the motor or the smalle

[swooshdave]

Which way.does the.spring go the.larger.size facing.the.outside.of the motor or the smalle

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/Cars/8f11205e.jpg

[jnyost]

Which way.does the.spring go the.larger.size facing.the.outside.of the motor or the smalle


http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/Cars/8f11205e.jpg

That's the old style spring.

[aspensilver540]

Easy, DIY works the same for M62 mine is 3/97. Thanks MadDog, BlackBMWs and co.

[mifesto]

should it even matter which direction? compression will occur from both sides equally regardless i would think. for example i've seen some coilovers out there that offer both inverted and standard setup(for exame BC coilovers) but springrates doesnt differ.

[CR1777]

Just got around to do mine...car has 71k. Took me only 10 min, took me longer to get my "Ratchet when it slipped out my hands..lol" :shifty

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h284/cr1777/IMAG1634.jpg

[Craiga06]

That's the old style spring.

What's up with the unusually high shipping rates for this little part? $18? Seems a bit much.

[jnyost]

What's up with the unusually high shipping rates for this little part? $18? Seems a bit much.

Website pulled each part from a different warehouse. We combined them and credited your card.

Thanks!
Jared

[Craiga06]

Website pulled each part from a different warehouse. We combined them and credited your card.

Thanks!
Jared

Y thank you good sir

[dahno1]

Got the febi for $65 out the door, at my local euro parts store.

It made a hell of a difference in engine sound! My engine no longer makes a ticking noise. It just purrs now.

My old tensioner (100k miles) was stuck closed!! Literally had no spring action!!

Thanks for posting it. This job is a MUST DO for e39's and only takes 30 minutes!!
Hello,
I'm located in San Diego as well, just wanted to know ,where did you purchase your Timing Chain Tensioner?



Thanks,Dee

[cnelson]

After this replacement my car now has a strange noise for awhile after startup and my check engine light came on?? :(
Any ideas??
Maybe didnt tighten enough??
Didnt get a new seal either didnt look worn at all though

[monkeyking]

did mine today, 10 mins & it was done. definately much more quiet at startup.
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j408/m5port325i/IMG_20121216_080421.jpg

thanks!
cheers,
larry

[Alicantor]

When does the new tensioner design was introduced ? Before or after the end of production of our e39 ?

I'm asking since I will pick up my 540i in about one week and it is a 4/2003 production.

[jnyost]

When does the new tensioner design was introduced ? Before or after the end of production of our e39 ?

I'm asking since I will pick up my 540i in about one week and it is a 4/2003 production.

Every one I've ever changed was an older design. I don't know when the new one came out. I think it's just been within the last few years.

[Only1Balto]

this fix doesnt seem to address the rattle.

the rattle isnt actually the chain. its the vanos gear wobbling on the camshaft.
there is a new Beisan Systems vanos kit coming out soon.


What if your car is pre-vanos and still makes the rattle though?

I need to do this ASAP.

[Tim88]

After all of the help I have recieved from this forum, I thought I should try to contribute. Even though this thread is pretty old there may still be people like me out there who are just now needing to do this maintenance.
The instructions on the first page are very good, this is a straightforward DIY. However, I found that the easiest way to install the new tensioner is to start it by hand rather than using a wrench.

I started out using a wrench and socket and after about 5-10 minutes of frustration I decided to change my strategy. I got the wrench out of the way and put pressure on the center of the tensioner bolt with my left thumb. I then used my right hand to twist until the threads started to catch. I got it about 1/4 to 1/2 turn started with my fingers, then put the wrench back on to finish it the rest of the way.
I was able to get the threads started in about 10-15 seconds using my fingers.

I replaced my old tensioner with a Febi unit that has the longer spring. The only tools I needed for the removal and install of the tensioner was a 3/8 socket wrench with a 19mm deep socket. I had some chain rattle on startup that went away after about 3 seconds.

[Only1Balto]

Did my tensioner today. Pretty easy, no issues. I bought the genuine BMW part off ECS tuning and I was hoping to see a different spring than the one that was already in my car. Maybe a revised spring or something- but they were both the same. The used one did sit a little lower than the new one though- so I'm happy with that. Didn't have any issues to begin with so nothing to report really.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p172/SVPrelude/BMW/IMG_20130330_162202_703_zpsb88a0568.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p172/SVPrelude/BMW/IMG_20130330_162343_587_zpsa6c83d9d.jpg

[motorade1]

So the new Febi part is a little different than a new OEM one?

[bin01123]

With the M62 motors being 8 cylinders, is there 2 tensioners needed or only 1?

[bin01123]

463196

Replaced mine yesterday. The old tensioner on the left was stuck in and there was no play with the spring. I soaked the new one in one before I installed it. Less rattle on the first startup after the install and on the startup this morning the rattle was completely gone.

[mikracer]

Ordered a tensioner today. I've read a few threads that said the new tensioner is compressed for ease of installation. Can anyone who has recently done this confirm that this is true?

[bighman209]

Ordered a tensioner today. I've read a few threads that said the new tensioner is compressed for ease of installation. Can anyone who has recently done this confirm that this is true?

+1

Update: just did it and no issues whatsoever. I didnt need the wobble piece. I just used a deep 19mm socket tool, 8" extension and 3/8" ratchet. Oh and a rag for the oil that leaks out

[m62love]

I have a question and its probably off topic and in the wrong place but i need help. And I cant find what I need in a search.. my car is a 97 540i v8 146k miles. has been great no ticks knocks or rattles of any sort. well this morning it sounds like the timing set just fell apart randomly and its now constant still running perfect though. No im not driving it and only let it run long enough to hear the problem. My question is is this going to be a definite guide failure or could this be a tensioner??
Thanks in advance!

[jnyost]

I have a question and its probably off topic and in the wrong place but i need help. And I cant find what I need in a search.. my car is a 97 540i v8 146k miles. has been great no ticks knocks or rattles of any sort. well this morning it sounds like the timing set just fell apart randomly and its now constant still running perfect though. No im not driving it and only let it run long enough to hear the problem. My question is is this going to be a definite guide failure or could this be a tensioner??
Thanks in advance!

The only true way to tell is to drop the oil pan and look for plastic chunks.

[m62love]

The only true way to tell is to drop the oil pan and look for plastic chunks.
Thanks for the reply I just wanted to make sure there wasn't an easier quicker way.

[jnyost]

Thanks for the reply I just wanted to make sure there wasn't an easier quicker way.

Do you have a bore scope? You can snake that in through the oil fill cap. It's usually the middle "U" shaped guide but sometimes the passenger's side can break.

[m62love]

Do you have a bore scope? You can snake that in through the oil fill cap. It's usually the middle "U" shaped guide but sometimes the passenger's side can break.

I can get my hands on a scope, However if it came down to it.. Would it be worth my time to take the valve covers off and get a closer look from the top? Or is the best bet from the pan/underside. Thanks!

[boondocksaint]

I can get my hands on a scope, However if it came down to it.. Would it be worth my time to take the valve covers off and get a closer look from the top? Or is the best bet from the pan/underside. Thanks!

The pan lets you see the bottom of the U and will obviously contain any pieces or residue from wear. I recommend it. I did it to my old 540i. It's very simple and just costs you a gasket and an oil change.

[m62love]

Thank you all for helping so much. One more question and i will leave you all alone :) where can I find the best deal on the guides that i will be needing?

- - - Updated - - -


Do you have a bore scope? You can snake that in through the oil fill cap. It's usually the middle "U" shaped guide but sometimes the passenger's side can break.
I am on your website and you have fantastic pricing :) very surprising. what all would you recommend replacing?

[jnyost]

Thank you all for helping so much. One more question and i will leave you all alone :) where can I find the best deal on the guides that i will be needing?

- - - Updated - - -


I am on your website and you have fantastic pricing :) very surprising. what all would you recommend replacing?

http://www.eaceuroparts.com/content/tech-articles/bmw/bmw-m62-and-m62tu-timing-chain-rails-parts-list/

[mrturbo524s]

I want to take a minute and say "thanks for this thread". I have an 02' 540i with 104,000 miles and the ticking noise at start up had become progressively louder. I ordered a tensioner and installed it in about 15 minutes. They do come preloaded, I fiddled with mine and it became "un-loaded"...lol. It would have been much easier had I not coon fingered with it. Once installed, I started it up and it worked perfectly.

[Paulpaim]

I fixed my tensioner problem and it works great. no more ticking noise and running smooth. it just cost me $3 for a new spring instead of $80.

here is the thread of how i did it my self:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2077724-3-e39-540i-m62-timing-chain-tensioner-spring

[m5james]

thanks everybody, i got a diagram from the website: www.bmwpartscounter.com (http://www.bmwpartscounter.com) #9 is the tensioner. however, i was wondering if anybody replaced the whole assembly. i got the cold rattle noise, sounds like a pulley tensioner but im pretty sure its the timing chain tensioner because the noise goes away after a minute, being the oilpressure builds up. what do you think?

I found a spring that supposed to be the spring for the timing chain tensioner, is this right, http://www.eactuning.com/ssf/part_number_search/11%2041%201%20706%20809 they want 4 bucks.. Is it supposed to replace the tensioner's spring?

New link for this, I can't find just the spring replacement vs the entire thing for $60 on eBay.

[jnyost]

I found a spring that supposed to be the spring for the timing chain tensioner, is this right, http://www.eactuning.com/ssf/part_number_search/11%2041%201%20706%20809 they want 4 bucks.. Is it supposed to replace the tensioner's spring?

New link.
http://www.eaceuroparts.com/parts/part_number/11%2041%201%20706%20809

This is NOT the spring for the tensioner and only listed as an updated link to a previous post. It is for a control valve near the oil pump in some I6 engines.

[m5james]

The spring in the picture isn't the same as the ones shown throughout the thread. Am I missing something?

I like the idea of doing this to keep tension on the chain as my 98 740iL motor ate itself alive once the timing chain guide came loose (poor rework by a company that head replaced the headgasket prior to my purchasing the car), but at the same time I worry if this renewed pressure is a good thing since there are stories of tensioners breaking into pieces. It's stopping people from having rattle, but at the expense or increasing pressure on an already worn out chain guide.

[jnyost]

High spring tensions aren't the death of the rails. It's the smacking of the rails when the engine starts and dies that causes failure. I'd rather have a tight chain than a loose ones, especially with aged rails.

[m5james]

Bought and received the spring, have yet to do the work. As I stated though, the spring in the pics and what I received are two different looking items. Doing a Google search using the part number provided, it lists I6 engines, not the M62TU. Once again, am I missing something?

[m5james]

Bump for jnyost.

[m5james]

http://www.eaceuroparts.com/parts/part_number/11%2041%201%20706%20809

Ordered this based off your link, for the third reply now...it's different! Please give me the correct part number. VIN ending in LH13219.

- - - Updated - - -


http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/Cars/8f11205e.jpg

Hoping yuou're still on the boards, but where did you orders yours from? I've been given the wrong part number as you can see by my picture above.

- - - Updated - - -


Which way.does the.spring go the.larger.size facing.the.outside.of the motor or the smalle

Based on the spring in the picture, it can only go one way as the smaller end sits on a little nipple while the larger end just sits inside the assembly itself. Reverse it compared to the image below, that was taken just for the sake of comparison that EAS gave me the wrong part #.

[jnyost]

Bought and received the spring, have yet to do the work. As I stated though, the spring in the pics and what I received are two different looking items. Doing a Google search using the part number provided, it lists I6 engines, not the M62TU. Once again, am I missing something?

James,

I'll look up the spring and see what it fits.

It should be noted that someone asked for a new link to a part number mentioned earlier. I have no idea what they were using the part number for, nor am I suggesting it fits anything in particular. That's why I quoted that member's post.

I'll edit the post to reference that the link is just for the previous request.

[m5james]

It was I that asked for a new link to the replacement spring via your website. I bought what was in the link, and while the picture in the link is correct and what I received, I had no idea the size differences of the spring in pics vs having it in hand. I included in my post the size difference, which is nearly 2x larger than the current spring in my tensioner. Per the part number in the link you provided, every search I come up w/ says that spring is for an I6 engine, so even if there was some random miscommunication, an I6 spring shouldn't have been linked in an M62-specific thread in the first place.

In the meantime, I've stretched my stock spring back out, fought it like hell to get it to go back in, but ultimately I'd like to get the correct spring replacement.

[m5james]

Bump for an update so I can get this done before driving from Seattle to Hollywood and back for Bimmerfest.

[m5james]

Bump, again...Bimmerfest is only a few weeks away.

- - - Updated - - -

Bump, again...Bimmerfest is only a few weeks away.

[Flounderasu]

They don't sell the spring alone for the V8's. Only sell as a complete assy.


Bump, again...Bimmerfest is only a few weeks away.

- - - Updated - - -

Bump, again...Bimmerfest is only a few weeks away.

[m5james]

Jnyost?

- - - Updated - - -


They don't sell the spring alone for the V8's. Only sell as a complete assy.

I don't understand why Jnyost would post any part numbers of just a spring onto a thread that is specifically intended for V8's then...waste of my time and money now.

[jnyost]

I don't understand why Jnyost would post any part numbers of just a spring onto a thread that is specifically intended for V8's then...waste of my time and money now.

I updated a link that someone else posted. I didn't just grab a random spring number and post it. It could have been an ABS module for all I know. It was just an updated link to an original post. Sorry, can't take credit for someone else's research.

Amber emailed you an RA the other day. Just throw it in an envelope and send it back.

[spclinux]

So I finally did it, easy DIY job.
I spent more time trying to recover the cap that fell down to the engine floor.

The old tensioner was stuck shut no movement at all, pretty bad..
M62tub44 2002 156KM 98MHP Grey Mtech.
I had no rattle at start-up at all.
I had idle warm engine rattle.

Few seconds of clatter at first start, then down, I do notice quieter idle 70% down, but the ticking is still audible.
Suspected chain rails and/or Vanos. I guess Ill start with the Chain rails...

Good luck!

[tar.bz]

Noticed mine has a bit of a shutdown rattle. Startup is fine and its damn near silent under normal running.
Worth replacing this part as a remedy to the shutdown rattle do you think?

VANOS was supposedly serviced, but it could have been 6 years ago...

[agentrnge]

I replaced my tensioner about a year ago. It had the same effect as others. First startup with empty new tensioner resulted in an "OMG I killed my engine" kind of noise for a few seconds, then quiet. It reduced the frequency and severity of the start-up rattle. Previously it would rattle badly 10% of starts, and mildly on 20% of starts. With new tensioner it went to Mildly 5% of starts, and never a bad rattle.

In the last month or two I noticed the frequency of mild start up rattles were going up. A few posts, as well as in this topic, mentioned doing a seafoam oil treatment to possibly help clean out specific oil passages that might be prone to gunk up that feed the tensioner ( and vanos bits ). I did that last week. I ran ~2/5 of a bottle in my oil for 35 miles over about 45-50 minutes and put the rest in the gas tank just before a fill up. some idling. Never over 3K. 98% under 2200 rpm. oil came out dirtier than usual that is for sure. So far the start up noise has remained quieter. Not sure if its just new oil or if the seafoam made a difference. I was due for an oil change ( ~8k on m1 5w30).

[e39power3]

98 is when the m62tub44 came out. In Europe there's a m62tu 46 witch is 4.6 it's a very hard engine to find.

[Mobenzo]

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=463196&stc=1

Replaced mine yesterday. The old tensioner on the left was stuck in and there was no play with the spring. I soaked the new one in one before I installed it. Less rattle on the first startup after the install and on the startup this morning the rattle was completely gone.




Ok.here is my situation. 2002 bmw x5 4.4

i got home last night. A lot of clacking noise.

turns out it's a floppy timing chain.

can I buy a tensioner and install it without disassembling motor?
it cracks all the time, should I even bother? Will it help?

[98OrientBlue]

I installed a new tensioner a couple of months ago, and followed the Bentley guide. Page 113-81 lists the torque for the "Chain tensioner to timing cover" as 65Nm (about 48 ft lb). At the time, it felt really tight, and I don't think I pushed it much past 40 ft lbs.
But, I recently discovered the BMW Workshop Manual site and found out why the torque felt so wrong. It says to tighten only to 40 Nm, which is about 30 ft lbs! Has anyone else made this mistake?!?

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_series_e39/540i_m62_sal/2_repair_instructions/11__engine_(m62)/31__camshaft/9_ra__installing_and_removing___replacing_piston_f or_chain_tensioner_(m62)/

[dme88]

Yes, but as long as you didn't strip it, you should be fine.

[Plattus1000]

Just did mine after reading all this. I'd ordered the tentioner a while back but wasn't sure I wanted to get into it. Turned out to be easy and it quieted down my "marbles" Now I need to bulk up on vanos knowledge. I'm timid on that front.

[JimLev]

Replacing the vanos o-rings is actually pretty easy. You just need to time the engine after you put the vanos units back on the cams. Timing kit is required.

[AquilaBMW]

Replacing the vanos o-rings is actually pretty easy. You just need to time the engine after you put the vanos units back on the cams. Timing kit is required.

You better believe it!

[RAZ1777]

I’ve run into a recent problem when I changed the timing belt tensioner on a M62 engine withOUT VANOS.

Backround:
1997 540i 6 speed
190,000 mi. as daily driver
2nd owner, first 68,000 mi. was mostly highway
Always serviced, I do all of the regular maintenance
Oil report 5,000 miles ago did not raise any alarms, but did increase some elements from 35,000 miles previous (molybdenum, boron, magnesium). No other contaminates in the oil.

I just installed a new timing belt tensioner, even though it was not making any chain “slapping” noise. I filled it with oil before installing. It started quietly and ran fine for 8 miles at 30-40mph but started “slapping”, plus now idles lousy and very rich. I re-checked all connections. I tried re-installing both the old and new tensioners, but the same result. It seems odd that it was OK for the first few miles and then suddenly the new and old tensioner are not doing their job correctly.
Is there a way that the tensioner could not be working correctly, allowing the chain slack to cause this?
Why would the tension be OK for a few miles?

I really hope it’s something simple since any major work will be cost more than its value at this point.
Thanks for any help or guidance.

BobZ

[JimLev]

How did you get the tensioner installed if you filled it with oil, it won't compress enough to screw in the cap?
A small bit of oil is fine, the spring supplies the tension before the engine is started, then when running the oil pressure fills it and supplies the additional pressure needed.

[RAZ1777]

Since the oil leaks out its' side holes as it compresses, it compressed enough to screw it in.

p.s. Jim, great job on this newsgroup!

- - - Updated - - -

Here's a question. In which direction is its' piston oriented? I assume the correct way is with the "flat" side in first, i.e. towards the chain tension rail?

[JimLev]

Razz, this way. (my tu engine old and new tensioner)

http://home.comcast.net/~jimlev/Tensioner2.JPG

[RAZ1777]

Yup. That's exactly what mine looks like on the M62. Any other thoughts why the rails might have failed when changing the tensioner?

[JimLev]

Maybe just coincidence?
You could pull the bank 2 valve cover and take a look inside, won't be able to see a lot but it might give you some insight to the problem.
You could also pull the upper timing cover for a better view.

[nikatkimber]

Yup. That's exactly what mine looks like on the M62. Any other thoughts why the rails might have failed when changing the tensioner?

If they were already on their way out: cracking, brittle, pieces gone already; then adding more pressure with the new tensioner won't help, in fact it could cause them to fail sooner.

[Wheel Da Beast]

^^^^^ This totally just happened to me.... I read that it would be a good idea to change the chain tensioner to prevent the guides from prematurely failing. It just so happened it was the main reason why mine failed @ 128k. Now, I am on the forums non stop for the last week gathering information to tackle the chain guides!!! IMO if you have over 100k and no chain slap or little chain noise don't change it. That's until your ready to change those guides or you'll be surprised by a metal to metal sound coming out your engine bay at a in and out drive thru. lol

[madmox]

Holy crap. I've been thinking about swapping my tensioner out the next time I'm going n there. No indication of problems, just as a preventative measure. I have 70k on my 2001 6 speed. Should I replace or not?

[RAZ1777]

Madox, the tensioner has external access so no need for any disassembly. Did mine at190k miles and minimal slap, but still needed replacement when compared to the new one. Unless you are doing high revs, I wouldn't expect that it needs to be done at such a low mileage.

[madmox]

Thanks raz. I knew it was a non-invasive job, had never seen mention that it could actually make things worse. Thought it was akin to a cdv delete, like if it hasn't been done, do it now, because it's a cheap and easy way to possibly prevent chain guide slap.

[ViolinARC]

Just did this on my new-to-me '03 540i M-Sport. As you can see from the old vs. new comparison, the 72k mile TC tensioner spring is greatly compressed, which could be the leading cause of TC slack, allowing the "floppy" chain to damage the TCG's. This is the best 10-minute preventative maintenance you could perform to prevent premature TCG failure on your ride IMHO...

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa49/ViolinARC/IMG_0254_zpshmxzl5sb.jpg

So you can see the location, I snapped a couple of pix using my mirror. The external TC tensioner is just under the front right VC's corner...
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa49/ViolinARC/IMG_0258_zps0vgg0std.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/ViolinARC/media/IMG_0258_zps0vgg0std.jpg.html)
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa49/ViolinARC/IMG_0257_zpsszazlhq3.jpg (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/ViolinARC/media/IMG_0257_zpsszazlhq3.jpg.html)

[dannyzabolotny]

The spring actually isn't all that compressed, it was actually a design change in recent years. The older tensioners that originally came with these cars had a shorter spring, but BMW noticed a lot of complaints about startup rattles due to lack of oil pressure in the tensioner, so they made the spring longer to compensate for that. I had a 2003 540i/6 M-Sport as well, and I compared the original tensioner spring to the new tensioner spring:

575075

[ViolinARC]

The spring actually isn't all that compressed, it was actually a design change in recent years. The older tensioners that originally came with these cars had a shorter spring, but BMW noticed a lot of complaints about startup rattles due to lack of oil pressure in the tensioner, so they made the spring longer to compensate for that. I had a 2003 540i/6 M-Sport as well, and I compared the original tensioner spring to the new tensioner spring:

575075


Damn...they literally doubled the length of the spring! :eek:

[dannyzabolotny]

Yep, they made it significantly longer. With the old tensioner spring, it didn't provide much tension when it wasn't full of oil, so on cold startups the chain would slap around pretty violently, hence the startup rattle that everybody complains about. The new, longer spring gives the chain a little more tension when there's no oil pressure, therefore it doesn't slap around as much on cold startups. That's why it's always recommended to change the tensioner on every 540i that still has the original one. You changed yours a while back on the 2000 540i, and that may have been a contributing factor to it running for 230k miles on original chain guides.

[Richb134]

Hello everyone! First post although I have been stalking the site for the past month or so. Incredible information here! Purchased a pristine 01 anthracite 540i ablout 2 months ago. Love the car! Just turned 100k. 2 owners who took impeccable care of it. Regarding the tensioner replacement, is it to my advantage to pull the fuel pump relay to "prime" the tensioner before the first start? Also, need to find the torque spec on the tensioner unless someone knows it. Thanks in advance for all of your future (and previous) help.

Rich

[ex1988shark]

First post for me. Have a 2001 540i6 with 172K miles. Had it for 6 months/10K so far. Changed the tensioner 2 days ago. The old spring was the the longer newer style, and only slightly shorter than the new one. So I still have the slight rattle on start up for approx. 1 sec. I am guessing the chain is stretched enough now that the tensioner can't take up the slack without oil pressure.
Anyone ever tried putting a "spacer" in one of the bores of the tensioner to make the spring "longer"?

[JimLev]

It's most likely your vanos. Have the guides ever been done?
At 172k your living on borrowed time.

[ex1988shark]

It's most likely your vanos. Have the guides ever been done?
At 172k your living on borrowed time.

Thanks for the quick reply. I don't know if guides or vanos were done, and i'm not afraid of tackling either, just want to troubleshoot and plan accordingly. It only just started with the rattle recently, so previously I was crossing fingers the work had been done by a PO.

[JimLev]

It only just started with the rattle recently, so previously I was crossing fingers the work had been done by a PO.

I wouldn't count on you assumption. Lots of peeps sell the car at high mileage like yours before they have to replace the guides.

[f355spider]

I wouldn't count on you assumption. Lots of peeps sell the car at high mileage like yours before they have to replace the guides.
+1, without records or a tear down inspection, assume nothing. What PO wouldn't tout the fact they spent thousands fixing the car when later selling it?

- - - Updated - - -


It's most likely your vanos. Have the guides ever been done?
At 172k your living on borrowed time.

Maybe, maybe not. I had the start up rattle (intermittent) for years. I changed the timing chain tensioner at around 90k miles and 170k miles preventively. My guides finally let go at 260k miles (DEC 2016)...what a racket! ;) Just turned 265k miles recently and life it good....on new guides, new tensioners, new chains and rebuilt vanos.

[ex1988shark]

So I had my TCG's and VANOS done at my local indy. I have about 800 miles since the work was done. I'm still intermittently hearing the rattle at start, and some noise at idle. Does anyone know of a link to a video of what this motor might sound like with high miles and a properly operating VANOS? This is what mine sounds like. https://youtu.be/dfYPBfnIDvE

[XAlt]

Working as intended

[aamer415]

BIMMERONLY did my chain guides and vanos. There in fremont,CA, Great job and great on the price!

[88M6]

I have two 2002 540, mine topaz 6spd 97k,wife's Sterling AT 103k
replaced both ,hers is stone silent never rattles,mine still rattles cold start fairly consistently .
what gives? Should I be concerned? I am!
TIA

[harrysdad]

Gents - I just did the same to my 540i. The old tensioner was collapsed. The new one was much longer and had much more spring to it. The car is running great after the change.

My question is about the old tensioner. I took it apart. Cleaned it thoroughly with brake clean. Lubricated it with motor oil and now it appears to be functioning again. Does know if something mechanical causes these to fail or it it simply dirty, contaminated oil clogging some of the passage ways?

Does anyone know the most common reason for the failure of this important part?

[breakz187]

You have to pull the fuel pump fuse and let the engine stop once its ran out of fuel. Then try and start a few times to get rid of all fuel pressure. Only once this is done you replace the tensioner. The idea is to be able to turn the engine without fuel on startup with new tensioner installed. This allow oil pressure to build, so that you dont have sloppy chain guide on initial startup that will do lots of damage to old guides. Then install the fuel pump fuse and off you go.

[CarbonCleaner]

Just performed TCG and full chain replacement. VANOS gears were refurbished by JimLev. Can't recommend him enough. I used the Schawben M62tu Timing tool kit. I was a bit nervous due to horror stories regarding CEL and codes related to timing. None of that has happened and I'm confident if somebody were to use them and follow the directions related to timing procedure you will not go wrong.