DIY: Replace Control Arm Bushings

[ph0ngvu]

My dealer warned me all sort of things when the bushing cracked at 60k miles and it would cost nearly $800 parts + labor. ($250 for parts, $500 for 2 hours of labor, some tax). I was not ready to give up that much. So I waited until 88k miles where the clicking noise is louder when I hit the brake or release the brake. This is when the bushing is completely gone.

This job wont take more than 2hrs to do so.

Step 1) Check up to see if it's really bad.
Driver side. (water infiltrated in that's why there are some yellow stuffs and same for the passenger side)
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Checkup02.JPG

Step 2) I dont believe those aftermarket stuffs. I purchased BMW genuine parts. a pair of bushing for $49 +tax = $54.07. SO I saved big time as most as $500 here (I have to reward myself for 2hrs of working with some beer ....)
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Prepare01.JPG

http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Prepare02.JPG

http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Prepare03.JPG

Step 3) Prepare tools - they are look straight forward - only 1 thing to keep in mind that these screws are size 16. It's the only size you need.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/step01.jpg

http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Steop01b.JPG

Step 4) After all the routines to get the car up. Look for these 3 screws that hold the plastic cover, unscrew them so you have space to remove the metal cover.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step02.JPG

then look for 6 (size 16) screws and remove them. This is where the metal cover falls off.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step03.jpg
look at the bottom edge and you see 3 holder that attached to the plastic part in previous step.

Step 5) Beware that these sensors on both side are very weak so do not try to pull the control arm out too far or out of the sensor reach.
(Passenger side)
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Beware.JPG

(Driver side)
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Beware03.JPG


Also watch out for this oil sensor
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Beware02.JPG

Remove 2 main bolts that holds the bushing to the frame
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Checkup01.JPG

the bushing holder immediately fell off the control arm.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step04.jpg

the below picture showed the remain rubber part still strongly holdon to the control arm. I have to use W40 and plyer attempted to spin it around to remove it.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step04a.jpg

finally it has been removed
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step04c.JPG

On the other side, it is still partially intacted. So you either have a choice to cut off all the rubber or use tool to remove.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step04b.jpg

Step 6) - You might want to put some of the dish soap or something to make slippery (definitely no engine oil, lube) to put the new part in. Beware!!! watch for the 2 edges on the 2 side of the control arm when put the bushing in.

Step 7) Once it's in, align to the foundation tight.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step05.JPG

Do the same thing to the other side.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step05b.JPG

Finally just put the plate cover back with 6 screws and 3 screws for the plastic cover.

Have fun.

[BananaHammock]

I don't recommend using engine oil to press this bushing back on to the control arm as it never dries. I recommend cheap generic dish soap from the dollar store, it dries into a powder pretty fast and wont allow for any movement between the control arm and the bushing.

[Mpowered02]

Agree with not using engine oil. You are supposed to use a lube that will evaporate and dry. I do E46 control arm bushings all the time at work and use glass cleaner as "lube". Spray it on, use a dead-blow hammer to hammer the new bushings on and BAM...done.

Also, for anyone looking to do this....whatever you do, do not forget to reinstall the Torque Plate...what the OP referred to as the "metal cover". Do not drive the vehicle without this plate installed. The Torque plate is actually a structural component...

[JETninja]

And they're call "Bolts"...not Screws! You use Wrenches (Open, Closed, Socket, etc) to remove Bolts, you use Screwdrivers to remove "Screws"....

Have to replace my entire CA's up front sometime soon, will be looking for tips on that...

Good write up minus the minor blems....how does it ride now? :D

[D. Hitchcock]

+1 on dish soap as lube to remove and install control arm bushings.

Only thing I would add: Powerflex CABs have been very good on my e46. Spendier than the stock bits used here, but IMHO better.

[EURO M3 CSL]

what kind of tool did u guys use to remove the front bushing? ill need to be doing this for both the E46 and E36 so just want to know what tool u guys use

[Calvin Nix]

Does anyone know what the sensor is just underneath of Step 5. Looks like a control arm position sensor or something to that effect. The plastic piece on mine is broke and it keeps rattling. I'm pretty sure I can get it replaced under warranty, but I would like to go in the dealership knowing what I am talking about.

Thanks.

[Mpowered02]

The sensor is a ride height sensor.

For removal, I usually use a tool specifically designed for removing the bushings on these cars....but not the factory one. Works perfectly, and works on both the E46 and E36 FCAB's. For the E46, there is also a way to get the bushings off with nothing more than a REALLY long prybar but it would be really hard to explain how to do it here...takes maybe a couple of seconds per side once the torque plate is off, then a couple minutes to lube and hammer the new bushings on. With a lift, air tools, and a LONG prybar, I can do both FCAB's on an E46 in about 20 minutes from start (pulling car into my stall) to finish (car back on ground)...:buttrock

For the E36, i've seen a heavier guy at work muscle them off with his bare hands by spraying penetrating lube and twisting them off, but I doubt it would be possible to get the leverage needed to do that with the car on jackstands in the driveway.

[ssbowtie1]

Great write up, but I don't know how you got the CA bushings for $50. I just went to the BMW dealership and they wanted $227+tax.

This is the one on Hawthorne Blvd. in Torrance. Are your parts different than for an '02 330Ci convertible?

[D. Hitchcock]

Tool to remove CABs from arms.

A three-arm puller is probably optimal.

I happen to use a large C-clamp.

Big slip-joint pliers would work too.

d.hitchcock

[Jamesfogarty05]

I'm getting this same job done today except my mechanic recommended using M3 bushings which have rubber padding all the way around. Got both bushings for $30.00..... we'll see how it turns out

[ssbowtie1]

I don't understand how you guys are paying these prices for the bushings. My dealer wanted 227+tax.

[Jamesfogarty05]

Well.... I got the M3 bushings at cost but it turns out they'll only fit an M3 control arm anyways. So I went and got regular bushings and they charged me $85.

[ssbowtie1]

Well.... I got the M3 bushings at cost but it turns out they'll only fit an M3 control arm anyways. So I went and got regular bushings and they charged me $85.

Is $85 dealer cost? Do you have the part numbers that you used? I just want to make sure I'm at least getting the right parts because I don't understand why the prices are so much different.

[Jamesfogarty05]

It was $85 at a local parts store, stay away from dealers if you have that luxury. I can't say for sure that these will fit your car but heres the part number 6756063-L 6756064-R "L" being left and "R" well you get the idea. Made an enormous difference in my ride and braking quality.....Good luck


I found the part but I dont have permission to post links.... go to google and type in this part number W0133-1805216

what you're looking for is a "control arm bushing kit" and you can get it for around $100

[ph0ngvu]

I do have to agree that i should not use engine oil to press the bushing back on to the control arms.

ssbowtie1 - $227 for a pair of bushing are full dealer price. You might want to ask if they have German made stuff but no BMW logo on it. This is much cheaper.

[peterv]

Am I correct to assume that no preload is required when tightening the control arm bushing bolts? I'm doing this in a few days using oem parts (bushing already pressed in).

[Mpowered02]

Am I correct to assume that no preload is required when tightening the control arm bushing bolts? I'm doing this in a few days using oem parts (bushing already pressed in).

On the E46 no preload is necessary since the bushings and arms have a hexagonal opening that fits together. Lube em up, dead-blow hammer the new bushings on (they're side specific!), install the bolts, torque and you're done.

[jo3y]

I just did both control arms and used powerflex FCAB bushings.
Note: If you dont have a press, get the powerflex bushings already pressed in!

[creep77]

what is the torque specs for the bolts on the bushing brackets? thanx

[CABoi]

my local shop wants to charge me over $300 for parts and labor for this repair. i'm thinking about tackling this on my own. i went under my car today, what's the trick on getting the metal cover off? can't seem to get the 2 front bolts off. any help is appreciated.

[Olympic Curler]

Sorry for the newb question but do you have to do an alignment after you change the bushings?

[EURO M3 CSL]

Sorry for the newb question but do you have to do an alignment after you change the bushings?


usually yes, but if u havent done the RTABS yet, u might want to consider changing those out first before u get a full alignment because the RTAB wear out around the same time frame if not quicker

[zeeek]

I have to replace psgr side CA because the outer ball joint is toast and as most of you know, it's integrated into the dam arm! A friend is a mechanic at a BMW dealership, and even knocking off half the labor at 95/hr, it's still going to be $675 for 1 CA & 2 bushings. Then he continues to say "you need 3 special tools". I've done enough repairs to handle this one, especially after reading some good info on this thread. But he did make a point NOT to get cheaper, non-genuine parts, particularly CA's as they could be from China and the tolerances would be off and therefore alignment compromised. He said only Meyle CA would he consider.
My Ques.? Can I go with an after market part that doesn't cost 280 like the Meyle? It looks like the bushings are covered here pretty well. Also, there should be just 2 nuts holding the inner & outer ball joints in place after the bushing bolts come out.
ps. what are RTABS? I couldn't figure that acronym
I'd love to save a couple hundred bucks, especially now!
thanks guys (& gals if applicable)
Alex

[voltron7]

Bump for a good thread...maybe I misread, but I believe the OP did say not to use engine oil or lubes?


"Step 6) - You might want to put some of the dish soap or something to make slippery (definitely no engine oil, lube)..."

[2003 325xit]

Does anyone know of a DIY for replacing the bushings. They are not available pre pressed for the xi wagon. I do not have a hydraulic press, I have only one vehicle and will be doing these in a few days.

Thanks very much.

[my03e46325xi]

I don't understand how you guys are paying these prices for the bushings. My dealer wanted 227+tax.

Dude, with all due respect...F*CK the dealer and their prices. ALWAYS check out RMEUROPEAN.com, or PelicanParts.com or Partsgeek.com and compare prices. I have a 2003 325xi and my bushings would cost no more than 60-80 bucks.

[aurelius]

Bavarian Autosport sells the Meyle heavy-duty (HD) front control arm bushings. $90 for the pair. They are rubber, not urethane, and come pre-pressed into new brackets. See bavauto.com, specify your year and model, and search part 31 12 6 757623H.

When the time comes for new control arms, they also sell Meyle E46 aluminum version with REPLACEABLE ball joints. $190 each or $450 for 2 arms and 2 HD bushings.

[shaunbradley]

i got the Meyle heavy duty control arm bushings and was looking for someone to install it cause i dont have the necessary tools. they want $90-110 to install. what do you guys think of the price?

[ph0ngvu]

i got the Meyle heavy duty control arm bushings and was looking for someone to install it cause i dont have the necessary tools. they want $90-110 to install. what do you guys think of the price?

I've seen some people replace the CA for less than 1hr. $90 is a little bit high but since you do not have the tools might as well go for it.

[txtorquemade]

100 bucks to replace FCABS is decent. Better to DIY, pricewise, but can be a PITA.

Id pay it!! But then Im a lazy bastard.

[dougsd]

A mechanic showed how my wheels moved backward when the brakes were applied at low speed, so I could see the control arm bushings were worn.
Only 48K miles, so I was quite surprised.
I ordered the bushing kit, and jacked the 03 325i up yesterday.

Removed the covers to expose everything, and took off the 2 bolts holding the driver side bushing, using gear puller.

Lubed the shaft and rubber with laundry soap, and started to press it back.
Well, the resistance from the rubber, causes them to go on so far and then slip back off.

Due to lack of space from the jacked up car, I pushed and grunted, and was getting pretty nervous, when i could not get it back on.

So I got a long board and used it as a lever.
I secured the end, and put the wood against the bushing, and was able to apply enough force that it went on pretty easily.

Watched the video of how the bushings are done on a lift, when you can get under and reach up, but they are not easy to get back on without having the freedom to use your upper body for strength.

Hope this helps someone avoid what I first went through.

[BimmersGarage]

Anyone know the torque for these... :help

http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Checkup01.JPG
Bushing Bolt - torque specs

And,

http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step03.jpg

Cross Brace Bolt - torque specs

(NOTE: I've read that the bolts for the Cross Brace are "Stretch Bolts" that require a certain turn angle after it's torqued to a specific range... Is that correct? If so, what is the degree of turn needed??)

Thank you in advance for your assistance.

[Iammitch22]

I've been having steering wheel vibration for months; braking accelerating, coasting, every speed.

Just installing some meyle HD's using this guide and my vibration is gone!!! And when I hit a small bump Im not hearing the loud thump any more! Awesome, thanks guys!

PS. this was my first mod/DIY, and Im super hyped it worked out well.

[lug]

To remove the old bushings if they're still on tight, I agree, C-clamp works fantastically if you don't have that tool. Just put the screw part in the center of the bushing so it's against the tip of the control arm, and then the other side of the C-clamp should hold well against the bushing. Then tighten and it'll slip off eventually.

[ph0ngvu]

I've been having steering wheel vibration for months; braking accelerating, coasting, every speed.

Just installing some meyle HD's using this guide and my vibration is gone!!! And when I hit a small bump Im not hearing the loud thump any more! Awesome, thanks guys!

PS. this was my first mod/DIY, and Im super hyped it worked out well.


Good to hear it helped.

[michaelross]

Dude, with all due respect...F*CK the dealer and their prices. ALWAYS check out RMEUROPEAN.com, or PelicanParts.com or Partsgeek.com and compare prices. I have a 2003 325xi and my bushings would cost no more than 60-80 bucks.
I have tried buying the control arm bushing (http://www.car-stuff.com/controlarmbushing.htm) from partsgeek and RME.. I was overall satisfied with the product. Never had any problems with it.

[daveygto]

Just wanted to say awesome write -up... I brought me car into work , it took me maybe 15 mins.. faster then a oil change... cordless impact, 16mm socket, a phillips screwdriver, and the biggest chanel locks you can find...along with a lil bit of soap....Done! -Dave

[justgot1]

I have alittle steering wheel play, do you guys think replacing the bushing will fix it?

[325ibeginner]

Great write-up! Do have some questions though....

Reading through the Bentley manual... it says to replace the bolts as they might fail if they are used again. What's the deal with that? I'm assuming everyone that has completed this DIY reused the existing bolts for the control arm brackets and the reinforcement plate... Is this an instance of being overly cautious or should I seriously consider replacing these bolts?

Also, is there something against posting information from the manual (like the torque specs for these bolts?)

Sorry about all the questions -- I'm a newbie!

And just in case someone is reading this thread... this was a fairly easy DIY even for someone like me. My only problem was that I bought the Powerflex bushings without the brackets. Big mistake! I wasted several hours getting the old bushings out just to have the new bushings slip every time I tried to push them in. Spend the few extra bucks and get the bushings pressed on the brackets. You'll be much happier!

[R1200RT]

Completed my Meyle FCAB replacement today. Thanks for all the suggestions.

I have a 3-arm puller, but ended up using a 3" C-clamp. I sprayed a little WD40 around the old rubber bushing and placed a small socket at the end of the arm as a spacer. Tightening the clamp slowly and alternating sides of the bushing, I was able to pull off both of the old CAB's intact.

Cleaned up the arms with some fine steel wool and coated everything with dish detergent. Lined up the new bushing and I was able to install them by pounding them with the palm of my hand.

[QtheGenius]

what is the torque specs for the bolts on the bushing brackets? thanx

+1, I'm ordering these bushings this week and need to know what to torque them back in at.

Also, do you have to buy new brackets or can you just get the bushings. whats the benefit if any of buying them with the brackets?

[kayger12]

Torques:

Control arm rear bracket to frame rails M10 Bolt (always replace)
59 Nm (44 ft-lb)

Front end reinforcement to front subframe or body frame rails M10 bolt (always replace)
Stage 1 59 Nm (44 ft-lb)
Stage 2 torque angle 90 degrees +30 degrees

If doing full control arm replacement:

Inner ball joint to subframe M14 self locking nut (always replace)
90 Nm (66 ft-lb)

Outer ball joint M12 self locking nut (always replace)
65 Nm (48 ft-lb)

[QtheGenius]

Awesome, I replaced the front CABs and front sway bar end links this past Monday. My buddy and I followed this DIY and replaced all the parts in less than 2 hours. My car rides 10X better, the one bushing was almost separated from the mount. Thanks guys!

[aurelius]

Torques:

Stage 2 torque angle 90 degrees +30 degrees


For those like me who are unfamiliar with the torque angle concept and or procedure, please explain.

TIA...

[kayger12]

For those like me who are unfamiliar with the torque angle concept and or procedure, please explain.

TIA...

Fairly concise explanation here:

http://www.ehow.com/how_6474760_use-torque-angle-meter.html

[my03e46325xi]

I just had my front suspension overhaul done by a local mechanic. I have 90K on my 03 325xi. I pretty much bought parts and paid for labor. I had the following items replaced on my car:

1. control arms,(including bushings, etc.)
2. new end links
3. new BILLSTEIN HD struts
4. new strut mounts

It definitely drives a lot firmer, but I noticed as I drive (especially over bumps, turning, even if idling down road...) there are frequent metallic "clinging" "clanking" sounds. It sounds like it's coming from the strut mount area...just can't tell exactly where though. I don't know if the sound is cause the parts are new? or there is something loose or something else?

Has anyone ever run into something like this?

[justinNJ]

I am actually thinking of replacing the CA just to see if it tightens up my ride again. after 100k miles, there is some play (if I yank the CA it moves about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch by the bushings) If I am going this far, mine as well replace the CA also.

I was trying to find the nut holding the other mid-point joint on the CA and it seems to be buried. Any clue?

[kayger12]

I am actually thinking of replacing the CA just to see if it tightens up my ride again. after 100 miles, there is some play (if I yank the CA it moves about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch by the bushings) If I am going this far, mine as well replace the CA also.

I was trying to find the nut holding the other mid-point joint on the CA and it seems to be buried. Any clue?

Up on top of the sub frame. Driver's side you can get to from the top of the motor if you have a LONG extension and swivel setup.

Passenger side you have very little room to work and will prob need a 22mm open end wrench. Mine was bad enough that I had to cut it off.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1556556

[justinNJ]

I just found a great picture by picture removal/installation

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wmliu/3740236590/

Seems like this owners car had 21mm nuts on the inner ball joints.

I have tons of extensions and swivals and it sounds easier to get to it from the top at least from the driver side.

Once you cut off the old one, how did you pound the old ball joint bolt/shaft out of the mounting in the frame of the car?

[kayger12]

I used a pickle fork and a 4 pound hammer. Definitely had to beat the hell out of it to get them off.

[beef1020]

Also, for anyone looking to do this....whatever you do, do not forget to reinstall the Torque Plate...what the OP referred to as the "metal cover". Do not drive the vehicle without this plate installed. The Torque plate is actually a structural component...

I have a 2000 323i and I do not think my car has this torque plate. I checked on realoem.com and it also seems to indicate my car does not have one. Is this a problem, and would it be worth finding one and putting it on?

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM33&mospid=47718&btnr=31_0600&hg=31&fg=05

[aurelius]

Control arm rear bracket to frame rails M10 Bolt (always replace)
59 Nm (44 ft-lb)

Front end reinforcement to front subframe or body frame rails M10 bolt (always replace)

Are all M10 bolts the same length? If not, what length(s) do I need for each of the above-quoted applications? I know I could remove them and then go looking for matching M10's but I'd prefer to be ready to roll so that I can finish the CAB installation in one session w/o going on a mid-project parts hunt.

[projeks]

Planning the diy this weekend and have a few questions. . .

How important is using the torque angle gauge on the bolts?

My Meyle HD came with new bolts, but the sub-bracing needs to have new bolts? Can I get these bolts at a hardware store or get them from BMW?

[ph0ngvu]

I have a 2000 323i and I do not think my car has this torque plate. I checked on realoem.com and it also seems to indicate my car does not have one. Is this a problem, and would it be worth finding one and putting it on?

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM33&mospid=47718&btnr=31_0600&hg=31&fg=05


I believe it's better to have this Torque plate. On a unlucky day, you ran over a rock, it may fly backward and break some thing such as sensor, wire... under your engine. It may act like a strut bar to hold the under frame. I would not drive my car if its missing anything relate to the frame.


Are all M10 bolts the same length? If not, what length(s) do I need for each of the above-quoted applications? I know I could remove them and then go looking for matching M10's but I'd prefer to be ready to roll so that I can finish the CAB installation in one session w/o going on a mid-project parts hunt.

I dont think they will have same length as it's vary under different area.



Planning the diy this weekend and have a few questions. . .

How important is using the torque angle gauge on the bolts?

My Meyle HD came with new bolts, but the sub-bracing needs to have new bolts? Can I get these bolts at a hardware store or get them from BMW?

I would go to local junk yards and find one for a dollar or two. I got the cabin filter holder for $5 which is way cheaper than dealer.

[kayger12]

Planning the diy this weekend and have a few questions. . .

How important is using the torque angle gauge on the bolts?

My Meyle HD came with new bolts, but the sub-bracing needs to have new bolts? Can I get these bolts at a hardware store or get them from BMW?

I reused the bolts for the sub bracing. I guess if you wanted to be extra safe you could go with some blue loctite on them.

[lharvey16]

My dealer warned me all sort of things when the bushing cracked at 60k miles and it would cost nearly $800 parts + labor. ($250 for parts, $500 for 2 hours of labor, some tax). I was not ready to give up that much. So I waited until 88k miles where the clicking noise is louder when I hit the brake or release the brake. This is when the bushing is completely gone.

This job wont take more than 2hrs to do so.

Step 1) Check up to see if it's really bad.
Driver side. (water infiltrated in that's why there are some yellow stuffs and same for the passenger side)


Step 2) I dont believe those aftermarket stuffs. I purchased BMW genuine parts. a pair of bushing for $49 +tax = $54.07. SO I saved big time as most as $500 here (I have to reward myself for 2hrs of working with some beer ....)






Step 3) Prepare tools - they are look straight forward - only 1 thing to keep in mind that these screws are size 16. It's the only size you need.




Step 4) After all the routines to get the car up. Look for these 3 screws that hold the plastic cover, unscrew them so you have space to remove the metal cover.


then look for 6 (size 16) screws and remove them. This is where the metal cover falls off.

look at the bottom edge and you see 3 holder that attached to the plastic part in previous step.

Step 5) Beware that these sensors on both side are very weak so do not try to pull the control arm out too far or out of the sensor reach.
(Passenger side)


(Driver side)



Also watch out for this oil sensor


Remove 2 main bolts that holds the bushing to the frame


the bushing holder immediately fell off the control arm.


the below picture showed the remain rubber part still strongly holdon to the control arm. I have to use W40 and plyer attempted to spin it around to remove it.


finally it has been removed


On the other side, it is still partially intacted. So you either have a choice to cut off all the rubber or use tool to remove.
http://www.vnvui.com/bmw02/Step04b.jpg

Step 6) - You might want to put some of the dish soap or something to make slippery (definitely no engine oil, lube) to put the new part in. Beware!!! watch for the 2 edges on the 2 side of the control arm when put the bushing in.

Step 7) Once it's in, align to the foundation tight.


Do the same thing to the other side.


Finally just put the plate cover back with 6 screws and 3 screws for the plastic cover.

Have fun.


Hi,
What size puller is that? 3", 4"?
Thanks

[beaches85]

Just completed this today with Powerflex bushings (pre-pressed into new housings) - it was a pain to get the old bushings off, but a 3 arm puller helped. I honestly had a lot of trouble getting the new housings to line up with the mount to get the bolts back in...I could get it about 1/4" away from being lined up with the holes, and had to really put a lot of force to get it to line up. Did others have an easier time getting the housings to line up to be bolted back on?

[joeyz4]

When reinstalling left (driver side)CA bushing, turn wheels to the right. When replacing right (pass side) CA bushing, turn wheels to the left.

[mrchiken]

hey i am about to replace the control arm bushings on my car but have a quick question. i noticed everyones cars are 2001+. I read that e46's before 2/01 need a different size bushing housing. I guess my question is, will my 2000 323i be compatable? i am confusing the housing with the metal lollipop thing i guess.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/powerflex-e46-3-seriesz4-control-arm-bushing-p281.aspx
for reference, im guessing mine is the old 60mm bushing housing. it seems like i can just buy the 66mm. just making sure that the "socket" that goes on the control arm is the same size, thanks in advance!

[scamilleri1228]

Does anyone know what to torque the bolts on the control arm busings housing to?

[sockethead]

Does anyone know what to torque the bolts on the control arm busings housing to?
44ft lbs

[chef423]

I have a 2000 323i and I do not think my car has this torque plate. I checked on realoem.com and it also seems to indicate my car does not have one. Is this a problem, and would it be worth finding one and putting it on?

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AM33&mospid=47718&btnr=31_0600&hg=31&fg=05


The 323i does NOT come from the factory with this plate. info per Bentley manual.

[sockethead]

The 323i does NOT come from the factory with this plate. info per Bentley manual.
That is correct, the early cars came with a tubular style that kinda looks like a triangle. Obviously, not as strong...

[triggrhaapi]

Will be doing this work over the weekend. Thanks for the write-up.

[jivemouth]

I heard this is a common problem with BMW's after 60-70k miles. I just got my 2005 325iT E46 smogged and the mechanic said the front driver wheel was rocking forwards and backwards under sudden stopping and acceleration. He showed me the issue. He was claiming it would be $1200 and would require new control arms as well as bushings. Is this "play" simply caused by the rear bushings? Or is replacing the control arms also recommended. I know it's a Bimmer.. but it sounds awfully steep to me. Also seems like he is recommending I throw the baby out with the bathwater. Any advice for this BMW Noob?

[BMWObsession]

OP - Pics in this thread don't work anymore.

[SureShot434]

I heard this is a common problem with BMW's after 60-70k miles. I just got my 2005 325iT E46 smogged and the mechanic said the front driver wheel was rocking forwards and backwards under sudden stopping and acceleration. He showed me the issue. He was claiming it would be $1200 and would require new control arms as well as bushings. Is this "play" simply caused by the rear bushings? Or is replacing the control arms also recommended. I know it's a Bimmer.. but it sounds awfully steep to me. Also seems like he is recommending I throw the baby out with the bathwater. Any advice for this BMW Noob?

You only need to replace the bushings...I would buy the whole bracket wtih the bushing already pressed in. I believe I paid $100 for the pair.

The only time you will need to replace the control arms are when the ball joints are going out or the arm is bent. Other than that there is no need.

Hope that helps lol

[Chief Cake]

What is the indicator the ball joints are bad? Is it true the ball joints are going out around the same time as the bushings?

Great info in this thread. Thanks much. Go Chiefs!

[ph0ngvu]

I'll fix the picture issue... the host went out :(

[dm88]

I'll fix the picture issue... the host went out :(

Any luck with the pictures?

[ChiefRed]

I started on this project at night, thinking it wouldn't take very long...well, I had no idea the ball joints would be stuck on so tight. And now, I realize I should have bought some pickle forks...my car is going to be stuck on jack stands for now.

I have a question though, is it a big no-no to not use a torque wrench?

[Kashmod11]

You can do everything new for twelve to fifteen if your a DIY, I'm talking einbach springs, billenstien adjt struts, all OEM bushings , links, control arms, and have a whole new creature... If you have a 100 ton press the bushings are no sweat. Freeze the new ones before installing into mounts I've never seen a mount fail, don't heat them just keep pressing. Also don't grease before skidding new arms in bushings. Soapy warm water will work just to install and dry in a way that a torshelastic bushing is suppose to. Grease will deteriorate the rubber over time and cause the arm to spin and slide with no force to the cars frame. Trust me if your looking for a car that by far out performs any American sports on a road corse they need that tight lock on the rear of the control arm it's a bimmer rang set up that will eat your tires if not correct. Forward and backward movent mean caster adjustments out, which means the toe will be out and in with acceleration, braking, cornering, and just all bad feel. If you can spend the twelve hundred you'll never regret it. You'll make that back in tires within fifty thousand. Check cv joints while your there any torn boots or wet marks, regress and boot for fifteen dollars vs. the seventy later and your already there.

By the way, torque is 44

44-mounts and drive shafts
36 mm twelve point for axle nuts

Ball joints are bad if there is any play in your wheel from top to bottom with a unloaded suspension. Even pry with a bar between spindle and control arm. If you have aftermarket parts they'll be equipped with grease zerts. Any play in this they are bad or if starting to recess into itself.

[slimjim1284]

What happened to the pics on this DIY?

[ph0ngvu]

I'm sorry, the images are back now.

[323i jlviii]

Control arms come in soooo many price ranges.:eek: I like reading that someone likes the solid rubber bushings too:thumbup:. It only makes sense with water getting in and freezing in there that it has to work the part harder - then failure comes sooner. I've purchased two sets so far, yes cheap ones, not the cheapest but close.
They seem to be wearing out about 2-2.1/2 years. I drive all year around and enjoy driving hard when it's safe to do so.:pullover
I wonder about tire sizes and if that could effect the wear and tear on these units.:thinkerg
Soaps been my choice, both sides done.:alright

[dl1018]

Are the reinforcement plate bolts touched at all ?

If yes, are new ones needed ?

[Mpowered02]

Are the reinforcement plate bolts touched at all ? If yes, are new ones needed ?

Yes...the torque plate bolts and plate do need to be removed, but no need to replace the bolts.

[HarryBinNC]

Control arms come in soooo many price ranges.:eek: I like reading that someone likes the solid rubber bushings too:thumbup:. It only makes sense with water getting in and freezing in there that it has to work the part harder - then failure comes sooner. I've purchased two sets so far, yes cheap ones, not the cheapest but close.
They seem to be wearing out about 2-2.1/2 years. I drive all year around and enjoy driving hard when it's safe to do so.:pullover
I wonder about tire sizes and if that could effect the wear and tear on these units.:thinkerg
Soaps been my choice, both sides done.:alright

Our original bushings lasted for 13 years and 120K miles (2001 330cic) and we drive hard and fast in the twisties of the Blue Ridge Mountains that we live in the middle of. So I don't mind paying the dealer's outrageous price for OEM parts. $20.00 a year?

[spacecase]

Where did you get the Boges so cheap? I can only find Meyles for like 80 bucks a pair.

[daytonatrbo]

I reused the bolts for the sub bracing. I guess if you wanted to be extra safe you could go with some blue loctite on them.

Its my understanding that you replace the bolts because they are engineered failure bolts. Its not that they won't stay in if you reuse them, its that they should be replaced periodically due to fatigue and replacing them while your in there is the best time.

These bolts are meant to snap off in the event of an accident to help dissipate crash energy.

[ph0ngvu]

Where did you get the Boges so cheap? I can only find Meyles for like 80 bucks a pair.

I got a carshop. I can order genuine part or high end part (not the stuff made in china) for cheap.

[Lynk]

Its my understanding that you replace the bolts because they are engineered failure bolts. Its not that they won't stay in if you reuse them, its that they should be replaced periodically due to fatigue and replacing them while your in there is the best time.

These bolts are meant to snap off in the event of an accident to help dissipate crash energy.

Did someone feed you that load of BS, or did you come up with it yourself?

The BMW part number is for class 10.9 bolts, which are alloy steel, quenched, and tempered. Class 10.9 bolts have a minimum yield strength just above that of the imperial "grade 8" that may be more familiar. Anything that is installed as "torque to yield," as are these, are single use fittings. Torque to yield could be thought of as torque, then twist. The twist specification is made to assure consistent seat pressure amongst all of the fasteners. By yielding the bolts, the tolerance in measurement is effectively that of the material, not any clicky measurement device, such as a micrometer-type torque wrench. What requires replacement is the elongation of material that is the result of the extra twist.

All that said, yielding those bolts, while lying on ones back, is a ROYAL PAIN!

Hello, everyone.

[OnTheFence]

Anyone have the photos that go with this DIY ?