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View Full Version : Installed S52 in My 328i (Somes Tips)



dhinez
03-23-2009, 03:17 AM
I finally got done doing open heart surgery on my motor. Installed s52 cams into my car. It was a two day process for me because this was my first cam installation ever. I'm very mechanically inclined so I was up for the challenge. Car runs a lot better and is a lot quicker. I'm very pleased with the results. Next step brain surgery:devillook. Before I get my DME reflashed with cam specific software, I'm going to add 24 lb injectors and 3.5 MAF sensor. That is later down the road, though:(. Mods are in my signature for those wondering what I have installed already. I hope to dyno soon.:evil2

Here is what I learned. My tips for those wondering about s52 cams and installation.:D

Specs on different cams (copied and pasted from another post):
S50 cam specs
Duration / Lift
252 / 10.
240 / 9.7

S52 cam specs
Duration / Lift
250-252 / 10.2-10.28 Intake
244 / 9.67- 10.2 Exhaust

m52 cam specs
Duration / Lift
228 / 9 Intake
228 / 9 Exhaust

Schrick cam specs (m52 328)
Duration / Lift
252 / 10.2 Intake Part # : 261 E1 521 V0
244 / 9.5 Exhaust Part # : 261 A1 441 00

When I was trying to find top dead center (TDC) to install the TDC pin, I couldn't find it. I found out that if you have an aftermarket flywheel the pin is 90%-95% useless. I had to do without and basically do the install without it. This was a waste of time because to access the TDC hole you basically had to remove the intake manifold. I could have saved an hour and half of labor by avoiding this. If you have the oem flywheel you can use the TDC pin.

I did my cam install without the BMW specialty tools, cam locking tool and timing chain tensioner tool. It is very possible you can set the timing correctly without these. Make sure you have a ruler or a straight edge to make sure the cams are parallel to each other. This very important or your timing will be off.

This is the first time in my backyard mechanic history that I every installed cams into a BMW, matter fact any car. When I finally had my car put back to get together and tried to start the car, I realized my timing was off. All the car would do is turn over and do a lot of popping out of the exhaust. The car never started. I was ready to call it a quits. Before that I did a search on bf.com and found a thread that stated how the cams were suppose to sit into the car. Basically on the square side of the cams, there is a side that has two dots (holes). Make sure these are facing up. Not right, left, or down. If installed in any other position other than up, the car's timing will be off. I installed my facing right, so this put my car 90 degrees off timing:nono. So basically I had to remove the vanos system, sprockets, and chain to rotate the cams into the correct position.
281820

Make sure you when removing the cams you move the crank from TDC to 45 degrees clockwise. This will ensure that you don't accidently hit a valve against the piston head when removing and installing your cams.

Pelican Parts stated that you needed two people to remove the cams. This isn't technically true. You can remove the cams yourself but you must be able to hold the cams steady when removing cylinder one's bearing cap. Having a friend around can free up both hands plus ensures you don't damage you cams upon removal or installation.

After installing your cams, you can adjust the position of them using a wrench on the hex sided part of the cam. This makes it easy to align them. here is a picture of where you can use the wrench.
280863

Make sure you torque everything to it specific requirement. Over torquing can break bolts. :(

Having a magnet is handy when a bolt falls into the head by mistake. PLEASE KEEP MAGNET AWAY FROM CAM SENSOR.:nono

Use pelicanparts.com and the bentley manual for reference when installing/removing cams and timing the vanos/cams. Please read both very thoroughly. It's good to have some knowledge before starting something that you never done before.

If you have a problem while installing your cams please search bf.com before posting. I found my answer to my timing issue by searching. If may be a long reading process, but everyone can use some new knowledge.:)

Before starting the cam job, make sure have the correct tools and a decent area to work. Working on anything other than pavement can be a hassel especially if you drop an oily tool onto the ground.

Tools and accessories that will come in handy:
Torque wrench
Torx set
Adjustable wrench
Coolant

Wear old clothes.:rolleyes

After getting my timing corrected and everything back together, I started the car up. It chopped like a big block v8 with extreme cams. I thought wtf. I thought my timing was off again. Please give you dme some time to adjust. The car is receiving more air and there will be more exhaust exiting. I let my car run for an hour and it runs like a champ now.

Things to do while changing your cams:

Change valve cover gasket
Change head gasket
flush radiator
change water pump and thermostat
Change Vanos unit and/or accessories
Change timing chain tensioners

I can't think of anything else right now. My brain is fried from all this thinking:devillook. If you have anything that I missed please post. This will hopefully answer a lot of questions.:alright

Here some links that may help you:
Intake_Manifold_Removal (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-12-Intake-Manifold/101-Projects-12-Intake-Manifold.htm)
Cam_Removal_and_Installation (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Removal/E36-camshaft-removal.htm)
Cam_Timing_and_Vanos_Installation (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Timing/E36-Camshaft-Timing.htm)

99AMGJ
03-23-2009, 03:23 AM
wow good job. I wouldn't have the testicles to do something like this as Im sure I'd brake the cams

WTFGERMAN
03-23-2009, 03:29 AM
good write up should be put in diy section

Bimmersfreak
03-23-2009, 03:33 AM
I heard if you get the timing off and started the car. You could bent the valves and will need to drop half of the engine. Is yours okay?

dhinez
03-23-2009, 03:37 AM
I heard if you get the timing off and started the car. You could bent the valves and will need to drop half of the engine. Is yours okay?

Luckily yes my engine is good and fine. I was one of those that was saved from agony:stickoutt. I read a thread where a person started his cams with the timing off, and it seized up his motor. Basically the piston and valves met and got wedged.:eyecrazy Car runs fine. No tapping, rattle, or weird noise besides the alternator whining to be changed:confused. Runs real good. I learned a lot about my car. I have a new respect for bimmer mechanics.:buttrock

Scheidgen
03-23-2009, 07:19 AM
Is this timing tip issue valid when installing S50 cams?

RascalKing
03-23-2009, 07:51 AM
Is this timing tip issue valid when installing S50 cams?

Yes.

Good write up. Doing cams is a royal PITA, but this write up is good for sure!

loser635
03-23-2009, 11:27 AM
nice write up
wish I had the money to mod >_>

did you gain power all throughout powerband?

thedude60126
03-23-2009, 11:35 AM
Great thread man Kudos

93mwannabe
03-23-2009, 02:18 PM
Luckily yes my engine is good and fine. I was one of those that was saved from agony:stickoutt. I read a thread where a person started his cams with the timing off, and it seized up his motor. Basically the piston and cams met and got wedged.:eyecrazy Car runs fine. No tapping, rattle, or weird noise besides the alternator whining to be changed:confused. Runs real good. I learned a lot about my car. I have a new respect for bimmer mechanics.:buttrock

You mean, pistons and valves.. I'm sure just a typ-o.

dhinez
03-23-2009, 04:58 PM
You mean, pistons and valves.. I'm sure just a typ-o.

yeah. thanks. corrected typo.:shifty


nice write up
wish I had the money to mod >_>

did you gain power all throughout powerband?

I noticed a stronger gain around 3500-redline. It almost felt like my SRT-4 when it was stock. Low end was improved but not like I want it. I'm so use to having a lot of torque:devillook.

SHARKBITEATTACK
03-23-2009, 07:45 PM
Hmm, I always thought that the S50 had the hottest cams out of all the E36's. Either way, congrats on a successful install! I can't wait to get my cams in this summer.

What kind of flywheel are you running?

atlantisvip
03-24-2009, 04:03 AM
Man, I hope I dont fuck up when I do the cams on my NVm50 ..

dhinez
03-25-2009, 06:48 PM
Man, I hope I dont fuck up when I do the cams on my NVm50 ..

It should be pretty much straight forward since you don't have vanos. Wish I had a non vanos engine. My vanos unit was a pain to reinstall. The Pelican Part's DIY basically stated that the vanos unit had to slide in the first possible tooth available. Took me 6 or 7 trys to get it right. Since you have a non-vanos engine why don't you hot cam it. That is where you take the stock intake cam put it in the exhaust cam position. Then you take an aftermarket intake cam, s50 or schrick, and replace it in the intake side position. I heard good results with this combination. Good luck.

E36Bimmer93
03-25-2009, 08:12 PM
Very nice write up. I need to give this a try asap

Chistakoff
03-25-2009, 08:54 PM
I am still scared to attempt this!!

dhinez
03-25-2009, 10:37 PM
I am still scared to attempt this!!

I was scared at first, too. I told myself "I'll be damn if I pay someone to put it in if I know I can do it". I was also skeptical about doing it without the cam lock tool and timing chain tensioner tool. I heard that there were many success stories doing it without the tools, but I heard a lot of horror stories too. I said f*ck it. If I mess it up I know who to blame. I basically jumped head first and did it with success. If you line the cams up with a ruler or something with a nice straight edge and is very careful, you can do it with out the tools. Just make sure you check the cams for movement and remember to have the two dots facing up. One thing I would thing I would do different is purchase the timing chain tensioner tool to ensure proper chain tension when timing and adjusting the sprocket/gears. Other than that, I believe I could do cams in 3 hours now, removing, installing, and timing included.:alright

Chistakoff
03-25-2009, 10:51 PM
So when are you coming to my house to install them? haha

dhinez
03-25-2009, 10:56 PM
So when are you coming to my house to install them? haha

Only if you were closer.:stickoutt

Chistakoff
03-25-2009, 10:58 PM
Where you located man

dhinez
03-25-2009, 11:39 PM
Sumter, SC

RADI0ACTIV3M4N
03-30-2009, 01:30 PM
Do you have pictures of the dots that need to be facing up?

thedude60126
03-30-2009, 01:35 PM
good write up should be put in diy section


+1 Great thread

dhinez
03-30-2009, 01:47 PM
Do you have pictures of the dots that need to be facing up?

Picture added.:cool

atlantisvip
04-01-2009, 05:45 AM
It should be pretty much straight forward since you don't have vanos. Wish I had a non vanos engine. My vanos unit was a pain to reinstall. The Pelican Part's DIY basically stated that the vanos unit had to slide in the first possible tooth available. Took me 6 or 7 trys to get it right. Since you have a non-vanos engine why don't you hot cam it. That is where you take the stock intake cam put it in the exhaust cam position. Then you take an aftermarket intake cam, s50 or schrick, and replace it in the intake side position. I heard good results with this combination. Good luck.

Will the S50 intake cam be a direct swap into my non vanos ? Heard i needed a custom grind.

BimmerLover84
04-01-2009, 06:42 AM
The M52 2.8 can't take advantage of the 24 lb injectors OR 3.5 HFM. Save your money unless you add a 3.2 bottom end.

dhinez
04-01-2009, 12:25 PM
The M52 2.8 can't take advantage of the 24 lb injectors OR 3.5 HFM. Save your money unless you add a 3.2 bottom end.

Thanks for the info. Answer this question for me, can I use the s52 crank and rods in the 2.8 without modifying the m52 pistons? Thanks.


Will the S50 intake cam be a direct swap into my non vanos ? Heard i needed a custom grind.

I can't answer this question on hand. Maybe someone can chime in.

refatb
04-13-2009, 04:29 AM
also got this from another post:

you can use the s50-s52 cams for a good high end boost in hp. quoted by a respected bmw performance shop "the M50 2.5L vanos cams are 228° Duration, while the S52 3.2L m3 cams are 252° Intake and 240° Exhaust.....you can use the s52 cams with the m50 lifters and springs. the s52 uses smaller lifters (33mm vs 35mm diam) and conical valve springs with teeny retainer washers. net saving with this stuff is 20 grams per valve. get the s52 cam trays, lifters and springs if you can but the swap is ok with cams only as mentioned earlier." custom software recommended.

if you choose to upgrade the cams, you switch the intake cam to the exhaust side. timing is 240° on both, but the intake has a 9.7mm lift vs 9.0mm on the exhaust. buy a schrick 252° intake cam and you have the same cams as the M3. custom software recommended.

Stock S52 Cams:
Intake - 252° Duration, 10.2mm lift
Exhaust - 244° Duration, 10.2mm lift

S52 M3 schricks:
Intake - 264° Duration, 11.2mm lift
Exhaust - 256° Duration, 11.2mm lift

.....So is the S52 Exhaust cam spec 244° Duration, 10.2mm lift OR 240° Duration, 9.7mm lift???
and is the spec for the M50 Vanos intake cam 240° Duration, 9.7mm lift???

dhinez
05-13-2009, 07:17 PM
Updated post #1 with links to help with installation.:cool


also got this from another post:

you can use the s50-s52 cams for a good high end boost in hp. quoted by a respected bmw performance shop "the M50 2.5L vanos cams are 228° Duration, while the S52 3.2L m3 cams are 252° Intake and 240° Exhaust.....you can use the s52 cams with the m50 lifters and springs. the s52 uses smaller lifters (33mm vs 35mm diam) and conical valve springs with teeny retainer washers. net saving with this stuff is 20 grams per valve. get the s52 cam trays, lifters and springs if you can but the swap is ok with cams only as mentioned earlier." custom software recommended.

if you choose to upgrade the cams, you switch the intake cam to the exhaust side. timing is 240° on both, but the intake has a 9.7mm lift vs 9.0mm on the exhaust. buy a schrick 252° intake cam and you have the same cams as the M3. custom software recommended.

Stock S52 Cams:
Intake - 252° Duration, 10.2mm lift
Exhaust - 244° Duration, 10.2mm lift

S52 M3 schricks:
Intake - 264° Duration, 11.2mm lift
Exhaust - 256° Duration, 11.2mm lift

.....So is the S52 Exhaust cam spec 244° Duration, 10.2mm lift OR 240° Duration, 9.7mm lift???
and is the spec for the M50 Vanos intake cam 240° Duration, 9.7mm lift???

Some good information.

ModMaster
10-09-2009, 03:00 PM
Updated post #1 with links to help with installation.:cool



Some good information.

BUMP !!

I'm gonna install S52 cams tomorrow, i would luv to get a small review from u since u installed them months ago, just wanted ur impression, are they worth it, did u feel the difference? how's the car running since the install? do u still have problems with idle on cold starts etc.....? just thought maybe others can benefit too from ur feedback.

Xenocide
10-09-2009, 04:59 PM
You do need cam blocks. I timed my M50 non vanos with a straight edge and it was still off. The rear square end of the cam, when timed correctly will not be in a straight line with the other one. I believe they just lie normal to the plane of the head if you will.