Just finished instrument cluster repair

[ptk1]

I just finished my instrument cluster repair. The following is the procedure that I used. Reader, use the information at your own risk – no guarantee that the repair will work for you. The following are websites that I used and added info:

cardomain.com/ride/240317/6

I was not able to get the instrument cluster out without disconnecting the electrical connections. To disconnect electrical connectors, depress plastic block and rotate latch and connector will pop out.

Two people are needed to separate the housing from the instrument cluster. One person is trying to pull the housing and instrument cluster apart. The other is using a needle nose to rotate “X”, starting from one end to the other. If you only have one person, the “X” will reseat when you move to the next “X”.

I don’t think that the contact cleaner is a permanent fix. The problem with the instrument cluster is the printed circuit on mylar tape. This tape is glued to instrument cluster tongues on the circuit board and the same with the pixel unit. With time, the circuit material deteriorates and splits from the mylar; i.e. the circuit material is sitting on the tongue. Sometimes the pixel works and other times not because the edge of the circuit that is still on the tape touches the tongue depending on temperature or humidity. Spraying the contact cleaner temporarily allows the circuit material to touch. Bottom line, the circuit is already broken and when the mylar flexes, the circuit is broken. The only true fix is to replace the mylar tape with something better (I think this is what VDOrepair.com does) or follow “visionbmw7” instructions.

bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/212505
bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/285693
bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/285208

I didn’t want to deal with removing the needles and calibrating gauges so I opted to drill the four holes at location shown on above websites. I used a 13/16” drill and T-9 torx to remove screw. Use two people when drilling. You don’t want to slip and damage the circuit board. Then you have to use a xacto to cut glue at the end of the pixel unit and separate pixel unit from circuit board.

I cleaned the circuit board tongue and mylar circuit with cotton swab and acetone. Patiently remove glue on both. Try to protect the metallic circuit on mylar tape. There is a white protectant line that prevents short circuiting as the circuits cut diagonally. This white protectant line does not come off with acetone. Be careful with the cotton swabs – the residual acetone will remove paint and melt plastics from table tops, computes, etc.

I rolled up toilet paper and stuck it in the groove and replaced the rubber pressure pieces. Hopefully the toilet paper will provide slightly more pressure to hold mylar circuit tape on circuit board tongues. Reinstallation is reversed. Test the unit without the housing before you put back the housing.

Remember, have the engine off when replacing the cluster.

Thanks to all the previous forum threads and E38.org for all the pictures.

[hypercritic2003]

Do you have all your pixels back now? Any pics of your process or any suggestions for future DIY?

[ptk1]

Yes, all of the pixels are back. I didn't take any pictures because I didn't know how to post it. The referenced web sites have all the pictures that you will need. The info that I provided are hard spots that I ran into following the instructions from the other web sites.

[sacer]

BMW 3 series (E36), 5 series (E34, E39), 7 series (E38), 8 series (E31), X5 from 1988-2003 all have the common dead / fading / disappearing pixels on the instrument cluster (also on the board computer) - on the large LCD display that shows valuable data such as the mileage and the on board computer messages. The pixel problem lies with the ribbon cable that connects the LCD display to the circuit board of the instrument cluster.
Dashboard instrument cluster E38 / E39 / E53:The instrument cluster units in the BMW E38, E39 and X5 models from 1994-2003 are quite similar, (they were all produced by Siemens VDO), using the same LCD and the same ribbon cable at all models. There are minor differences, like diesel or petrol powered ones, and also some speedos come with miles others with km/hrs, howeverthe LCD and the ribbon cable is the same at all 5 series (E39) 7 series (E38) and X5 (E53) models.

Sacer offers new & high quality BMW screen, and ribbon for your repairing.
If you need any further info, please contact Michael at: michael@sacer.com.cn

[fcallen]

I just got the instrument cluster for my 2001 530I repaired by bimmeronly.com. It’s the best $200.00 have ever spent. I highly recommend his services. All you need to do is just send your cluster and they would repair it and ship it back within 1 business day. The repairs included replacement of cable ribbon, and replace all bad and burnt out back lightings. They also give you a Lifetime warranty for as long as you own your car

[ala2000]

I have tough time to align the 5 X tab on the back of the instrument cluster. I be able to use needle-nose pliers to turn it but as soon as I release the pliers, it springs back to its original position.

Q1: Is X tab turn clockwise or counter clockwise. Or it does not matter. (shortest way to align X tab with housing).

Q2: if X tab always spring back to its original position, how can you put unit back since you need align X tab to the housing in order to put it back.

Q3: Can I simply cut of the X tabs since I think four clips on the side of housing should hold the unit well enough.
Thanks in advance.

[Hartge 635]

What about the radio??

[sealbeach740]

I have tough time to align the 5 X tab on the back of the instrument cluster. I be able to use needle-nose pliers to turn it but as soon as I release the pliers, it springs back to its original position.
Yep, that's how it works. So, while you turn the "X" tab, holding it in the turn position, apply enough pressure on the edges of the cluster to start pulling it apart (I use old credit cards). Once you do that, you'll have that part of the cluster apart a little, and the "X" tab won't slip back down into the locked position.

Q1: Is X tab turn clockwise or counter clockwise. Or it does not matter. (shortest way to align X tab with housing).
A1: Doesn't matter. The "X" just has to be aligned with the cut slots so that the post can slide down.

Q2: if X tab always spring back to its original position, how can you put unit back since you need align X tab to the housing in order to put it back.
A2: Once I had my cluster split & ready to put back together, I didn't have any trouble with the "X" tabs. They will re-align themselves as you apply pressure to close the front with the back.
Q3: Can I simply cut of the X tabs since I think four clips on the side of housing should hold the unit well enough.
A3: No answer for that one. I've never bothered or needed to cut them. The only way you would be able to cut them is if you've already split the front case from the back case, and by then, there's no need to cut the posts.
You'll see once you start to put the 2 parts back together. It will just slip into place, no problems.
Thanks in advance.

See answers in blue, above.
Hope it works for you. Just take your time.

[GeneT9999]

I just finished the repair on my cluster and it worked great!!! I was a little nervous about drilling. I didn't want to go to deep and drill into the PC board. But all is well and all of my pixels are back.

[sampham2001]

just finish my i buy a use one 40$ and take time remove and fix thank you
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OQ5Xo8rOs0&t=92s
any thing can ask me