DIY - E46 Coupe Idle Control Valve

[GWEEDOspeedo]

The following will be a description on how to get to the Idle Control Valve in at least a 2001 E46 Coupe w/5-speed transmission. I set out to find it because of my rough idle rpms ranging from what seems to be 300 to 1000 in a bouncing fashion occasionally dipping too low and stalling the car.

Tools you'll need:
6mm Socket
10mm Socket
T-40 Torx
Long flat-head screw-driver
**Non-Residue-Leaving cleaner if your ICV is filthy
Tray to hold screws, bolts, loose pieces.

1. Take a deep breath, find your dedication since you won't be able to operate your car until everything has been re-installed, and have at least two hours available.

2. Undo all 5 clips securing the top of the intake box. Remove the mass-air sensor electrical connector by pressing down on the metal retention clip and pulling outward. Separate the front and rear intake tubes to the box and remove the top half with filter insert.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv1h.jpg**

3. Remove the two bolts with a 10mm socket. Carefully lift out the bottom half of the intake box.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv2h.jpg**

4. Undo the four clips holding the cover on for the positive battery lead and other electrical cabling. You may want to disconnect the battery lead at this time so you can move the battery lead out of the way.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv3h.jpg**

5. Undo the three twisting retention clips holding the cabin air filter cover on and remove the cover and filter insert.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv4h.jpg**

6. Use the T-40 torx to remove the four bolts holding the cabin air filter box in place and remove the box.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv5h.jpg**

7. Remove rubber moulding from around the brake cylinder housing. Be cautious, there are loose rubber grommets that protect the hoses. Remove the two twisting clips holding the plastic shield that protects the brake cylinder area. The clips are similar to the cabin air filters'.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv6h.jpg**

8. Carefully remove the shield protecting the brake cylinder. Take your time and try different angles as it's an obtuse piece of plastic.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv7h.jpg**

9. Remove the clamps holding the air duct with mass-air flow sensor attached with either a long flat-head screwdriver or 6mm socket. The circled tubing may or may not need to be removed as they may bend out of the way for you. The F-shaped connector is barbed so you will need to use thin flat head screwdrivers to pry it out. I decided to remove mine and broke the lower tube. I'm looking for a replacement though my DIY Super-Glue & Tape job is holding for now.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv8h.jpg**


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv9h.jpg**


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv10h.jpg**

10. Remove two T-40 torx bolts holding the adjustment box in place against the manifold. Remove the adjustment box by pulling it straight out. I forgot to take a picture with it on so here's a prior one with it circled and the after shot with it removed.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv11h.jpg**


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv12h.jpg**

11.Removing this retention clip that is held in place by a T-40 torx bolt may be helpful in freeing up workspace.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv13h.jpg**

12. Remove two T-40 torx bolts holding the Idle Control Valve mount against the Idle Control Valve itself. Also use a flathead screwdriver or 6mm socket to loosen and remove the clamp holding the idle air duct against the Idle Control Valve. Pull the idle air duct off of the Idle Control Valve. It is barbed to secure itself in place but work with it and it'll come off.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv14h.jpg**

13. Remove the electrical connection to the Idle Control Valve by pushing down on the pin and pulling outward. Remove the Idle Control Valve by simply pulling it away from the throttle body duct. It is barbed so work with it and it will come out. Be careful around the ICV mount, it'll bend away but don't put too much backward force against it. This picture was taken after removing the Idle Control Valve. I circled the electrical connector and pointed to the throttle body air duct.


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv15h.jpg**

14. Examine your Idle Control Valve. Mine shows a lot of carbon and grime build up. I used brake cleaner on a clean, old, t-shirt that was wrapped 2-ply around the end of a long, thin, flathead screwdriver to poke around and wipe the inside clean. Be sure to get some cleaner inside and twist the ICV back and forth to clean and lubricate. After using the cleaner I took the Idle Control Valve inside to let it dry (it was about 35*F outside).


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv16h.jpg**


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv17h.jpg**


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv18h.jpg**

15. Re-install the ICV and work your way backwards!

16. Smile... it's now three hours later, night-time, and you're all done!


**HIGH RES - http://thecrewonline.org/russell/2007-12-15/icv19h.jpg**

I have noticed a LOT less idle problems but since it's very cold in the morning, some rough idling still occurs. Since the cleansing though, it hasn't stalled due to rough idle.

Please let me know if this helps you in any way or if I've missed/overlooked something!

[ggareis]

Awesome man! Thanks for writing this up!

[Tacoman]

Good job dude. BTW I like your art work, got any gallery showings any time soon?

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Maaannn... circles are hard to free-hand with a mouse.

[jmsanders78]

Thanks for the DIY! My ICV is drying (after cleaning) at this very moment.

[FSUmac]

Thank you very much. I just ordered a new valve yesterday in case I got down in there and decided to replace instead of clean.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

You're very welcome!

[jmsanders78]

Alright, car's back together and the idle does seem to be better after my short test drive. I found that, on my car, a T-40 socket fit a little better for removing the cover and ICV mount. I also skipped steps 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, although step 8 would probably create a little more room to get at a couple of hose clamps (those sucked).

Anyhow, the ICV was pretty dirty - mine has 126,000 miles on it.

Thanks again!

[Hot328Ci]

How much was the valve to replace?? Just wondering. And Clean it out with break cleaner?? or electrical cleaner?? Thanks for the post. very awesome.

[lonaldluck]

Do you know if the throttle position sensor is anywhere near there, I received with a peake reader a bad throttle position sensor. just dont know where it is ,it did not throw a SES light but peake reader showed a throttle position sensor number. 19-76

[jmsanders78]

I didn't price a replacement... I figured that I would try cleaning first. When I took it off, I could hear the valve inside changing position, but after a few shots with some brake cleaner the valve seemed to have a lot more motion (and with more ease). I can't be sure that the brake cleaner completely freed the valve though, since shaking the entire ICV doesn't make the valve move as much as quickly twisting the entire ICV in your hand. Difficult to explain, but I discovered this after cleaning it so my before/after comparison is possibly skewed.

[Hot328Ci]

Okay. Thank you. I'll take your word for it and clean it out this monday, then repost up on this thread how it all worked out. If the car doesn't run any better, although I'm broke, I'll jump to step two. Replace the rest of the shit I haven't replaced yet! haha, which isn't much.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Ah, I did forget to mention it's good to twist the ICV back and forth while cleaning. It'll help clean and lubricate.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Originally Posted by lonaldluck

Do you know if the throttle position sensor is anywhere near there, I received with a peake reader a bad throttle position sensor. just dont know where it is ,it did not throw a SES light but peake reader showed a throttle position sensor number. 19-76

I really have no idea. Someone with a bentley manual might know. Try the sticky'd DIY link too.

[FSUmac]

Can you describe what kind of torx tools I will need for this job? Is it a screwdriver or a socket? I need to go to sears and pick something up.

[FSUmac]

Also, since the ICV has electrical parts, is there somewhere we should NOT spray brake cleaner?

[GWEEDOspeedo]

I used a socket attachment since they were really tight.

I'm 99.99% sure the inside is sealed off from any electrical connections. There is only a motor with fins that move back and forth to control the amount of air going to the throttle body so it's a simple device. Brake cleaner is said to leave absolutely no residue just like electrical cleaner since that would otherwise leave a film on the rotor and render the brakes useless.

[FSUmac]

Thanks again.

The indy shop quoted me $350 for the ICV and labor.

I picked up the part myself for $116.

Even if I go ahead and put in the new ICV, you've saved me a ton.

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Glad I could help!

[jmsanders78]

I ended up using one of those folding torx driver sets, like a Swiss Army knife. There's enough room for one of those, but probably not for larger drivers. However, I would say that the sockets are probably best.

[jmsanders78]

Originally Posted by FSUmac

Also, since the ICV has electrical parts, is there somewhere we should NOT spray brake cleaner?

I also don't know about what the inside of the ICV is in terms of electrical stuff, but it's not hard to blow brake cleaner through the end of the ICV that needs cleaning without getting the electrical end covered in dirty solvent. All I can really say is that my ICV still works, as does Gweedo's!

[Cobra]

hey gweedospeedo, my car also stalls out in the cold after awhile(while temp gauge is still in blue) and i wanted to make sure the steps are the same for my car(2000 328i), before i messed with it, so i took pics(they're from a phone, large pics but quality isn't that great);

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7104/engine1vk3.jpg

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/2974/engine2oc1.jpg

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5653/engine3am0.jpg

so what do you think? same steps for me?

[GWEEDOspeedo]

Yup. It looks just like mine when I approached the job.

Good luck!

[jmsanders78]

Originally Posted by Cobra

hey gweedospeedo, my car also stalls out in the cold after awhile(while temp gauge is still in blue) and i wanted to make sure the steps are the same for my car(2000 328i), before i messed with it, so i took pics(they're from a phone, large pics but quality isn't that great);

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7104/engine1vk3.jpg

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/2974/engine2oc1.jpg

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5653/engine3am0.jpg

so what do you think? same steps for me?

This probably isn't the right fix for your problem - the cold stalling is usually attributed to a VANOS problem, but it can't hurt either.

[russiamutha]

nice writeup, you must be driving that car in desert.