how difficult is it to secure the oil pump nut w/o pulling the motor?

[m3j0n]

is it impossible? If not, how many hours of labor should i expect?

[cr2596]

+1

[Jrdeamicis]

Dropping front lower subframe is the way to not the pull the motor I thought.

[vinnymac]

My shop did mine without pulling the motor. I think I paid for 5 hours of labor and that included replacing the motor mounts and installing an oil pan baffle.

[VNG704]

hard? no. gonna take some time? yes. like stated above you'll have to drop your subframe and get the oil pan off. follow the oil pan/gasket replacement diy.

[m3j0n]

cool, great to know. What did they use to secure the nut? Also, what is the purpose of the oil pan baffle? Thanks vinny!

[STL Avus M3]

cool, great to know. What did they use to secure the nut? Also, what is the purpose of the oil pan baffle? Thanks vinny!

I think you can use wire to mess up the threads so the nut cant back off. That or tack weld it.

The baffle is to keep the oil around the pick up under hard cornering.

[m3j0n]

any specific baffle that I should look into?.. i might as well have that done while they do the oil pump nut.

[Veriest1]

5 hours sounds about right. I did mine in about 7 but it was the first time I've ever been in that part of the car.

I'd recommend safety wiring it. Bimmerworld should have a predrilled OPN just for this application.

I run have the VAC oil pan baffle and it seems to help. It was one of those "while I'm here" sort of things as well.

[Rennmeister M3]

Interested as well.

This is on my to-do list.

[M13]

This will be a big project.

[m3j0n]

5 hours sounds about right. I did mine in about 7 but it was the first time I've ever been in that part of the car.

I'd recommend safety wiring it. Bimmerworld should have a predrilled OPN just for this application.

I run have the VAC oil pan baffle and it seems to help. It was one of those "while I'm here" sort of things as well.

Sweet, thanks for the INFO!

[L3000C]

Sweet, thanks for the INFO!

i think i might do mine too when i have my tranny out doing my clutch...


keep in touch if u plan on doing it soon. Id love to see how its done. (not looking forward to doing it....)

[S54]

Just had this done to my car. The shop quoted me ~7 hours of labor as they have to pull the rack, sub-frame and other fun things. I like to do a lot of things myself, but given the intense amount of labor and no lift to raise the car, if figured I'd just pay the $$$.

As far as securing the nut, my shop drilled a whole and used a thin safety wire. They also used Red Locktite so that thing is not coming off. They said the only other way was welding, but they did not recommend doing so, nor did I think it was smart.

They said the issue with welding was not that it was not reversible, but that you super heat the pump shaft, which = bad.

While they were in there, I asked them to install the new baffle from Bimmerworld. When I dropped the car off, they showed me how they welded to the oil pan going in my car (core exchange). They also showed me how the factory baffle dose not seat all the way and does not do the job well enough for track conditions.

The new baffle was kinda neat. It was very similar to the factory baffle, with the exception of a trap door. It reminded me of a doggy door that you would have on your house. It had hinges on it that allowed a flap to open and/or stay closed depending on the lateral forces. Supah cool.

[m3j0n]

cool. ill have to look at that bimmerworld piece. Link?


also, i looked for the VAC unit , but didnt find it. http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bi...tem%20Upgrades

anyone have a direct link for the VAC baffle?

[NHbmw325I]

just type in e36 oil pan baffle in the top left corner.

http://www.vacmotorsports.com/db/images/e36-opb.jpg

[NeilM]

anyone have a direct link for the VAC baffle?

http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bi...pl?item_id=613

To access the oil pump you have to support the engine (from above is better, but in a pinch can be done from below), unbolt the engine mounts, lower the front subframe for clearance (doesn't absolutely have to come off completely IIRC), remove the oil pan, do your thing with the oil pump nut, then reassemble.

It's an awkward and time consuming job, since both the steering rack and the front control arm inboard ball joints are attached to the subframe.

Bimmerworld offers a safety-wire drilled oil pump nut for $15.

Check the subframe for cracking where the engine mounts attach (very common). Weld in some scrap metal reinforcements if necessary.

If you have leaking PS hoses, this is a good time to replace them.

If you have worn out ball joints or control arm bushings, this is a good time to replace the control arms and their bushings.

If you have worn out tie rods, this is a good time to replace them.

If you have a worn out bank account, this is why!

Neil

[geoffm3]

7 hours? Geez. IIRC I did mine in about three hours (not counting making the ghetto engine support).

[The Letter M]

I had mine done (from below the car), when it was in the shop & they just used red Locktite & said that they've never actually had one that was loose when they took it off & didn't think welding it was necessary, since the locktite wouldn't allow it to migrate off anyway.

When mine was taken off, it was as tight as when it was put on, but you have to go take it off to know that & now it will be on until someone takes it off again.

I wonder if this might be more of a problem for cars with an aftermarket crank pulley, not that it can't happen to anyone, but it seems like a logical possibility when you mess with the harmonic dampening of the engine.

[fritzintn]

Jon,
Install The MF'ing Twin Screw

Now that's out of the way, as stated above it's not that big of a deal. In your closet 'o parts, do you have motor mounts/new control arms/control arm bushings? If so, those are sorta 'on the way' to getting the oilpan off.

It's not that hard. Support the motor, disconnect steering u-joint, remove/support ps pump, undo 2 16mm motor mount bolts, 4 subframe bolts, then remove the pan, repeat.

Pretty easy gig with a lift, pain in the ass with jackstands.

[99MPower]

so the steering rack does have to come off with the subrame? I'm assuming the tie rods and control arms need to be removed as well so the entire assembly can come down?

any way to remove the oil pan without removing the steering rack?

[epj3]

I think you can use wire to mess up the threads so the nut cant back off. That or tack weld it.

The baffle is to keep the oil around the pick up under hard cornering.

What?? No... you use wire to SECURE the nut.

[motorsports321]

so the steering rack does have to come off with the subrame? I'm assuming the tie rods and control arms need to be removed as well so the entire assembly can come down?

any way to remove the oil pan without removing the steering rack?

No, all you need to do is remove the 2 bolts holding the steering rack to the subframe and just move it out of the way. no need to removed the tie rods or control arm. But you do drop the lollipop too.

http://m3.digital7.com/oilpumpnut.php

This is what my friend followed pretty much when I was helping him out.

[purduinaM3]

Is it just me, or does someone else see a problem with this picture? Maybe its the few drinks i had before...

[328iJunkie]

I just safety wired mine 2 days ago. everyones crazy about getting the pan off. Yes it was a bitch no i didnt have to take apart half the car.

-remove motor mount top bolts.
-attach cherry picker
-loosen tranny mounts
-disconnect PS pump
-lift motor as high as you can
-pull pan

-bam!