How to preload RTAB without alignment tool?

[TITE3NBIGD]

If you do a RTAB job and don't have that Victory Product DeSign alignment (or similar )tool that allows you to preload the bushing, how do you go about preloading the bushing without that tool?
Also, how do you make sure that 8mm height difference between the console and wheel hub is achieved?
Can't seem to find that alignment tool or anything like it.
Victory Product Design went out of business.

[Hard Dog]

When I installed my RTAB limiter shims, I used the diagrams from the manual as a guide and simply "eye-balled" it to where it looked pretty close. One of my RTABs was way out of alignment from the PO having the RTABs "professionally" replaced. At least now they're even! I don't think this preload adjustment needs to be as exact as it's made out to be. As long as it's close and both sides are even, you should be fine.

Dave

[eunit3357]

what happens if they are not aligned correctly?

[ASC OFF]

what happens if they are not aligned correctly?

Rear wheel toe is out of alignment

[eunit3357]

you know i just eyeballed mine. But my rear passenger side does look a little more in. Any other adjustments i can do with this now? besides re pre loading it.

[Hard Dog]

No, the bolts that attach the RTAB carrier bracket to the frame allow for the rear toe alignment. If I am understanding the OP correctly, he's talking about the angle that you set the RTAB carrier bracket at, with respect to the trailing arm, prior to tightening the RTAB bolt to 150 ft/lb's. When this bolt is tight, the bracket, when pivoted, twists the RTAB bushing. The goal is that, when the car is lowered to the ground and the suspension is at rest, there should be no twisting, or pre-load, of the RTAB bushing. Hope this helps.

[eunit3357]

ok yea see. Thats what i thought i did use spray paint to make marks of all the alignments. It all lined up perfect when i was done. It might just be in my head, or was wrong to begin with. plus i had everything on jacks/jackstands so it really didn't move when i did it.

[Mad Dog 20/20]

what happens if they are not aligned correctly?

It will destroy the bushing in short order and alter the effective rear spring rate.

[350chevrolet]

you can eyeball it or you can just make the tool yourself with a piece of pipe/wood and a ruler. that is if your using oe replacements. personally i used UUC poly bushings. they give a stiffer feel to the car. they are 3 piece so no messing around with pressing them in and there is no preload

[Hard Dog]

The RTAB bracket has slotted holes in it, allowing it to slide back and forth about 1/4", affecting the rear toe. If you mark the brackets clearly, you should be able to reset the bracket to where it was before. Pelican Parts sell an eccentric socket tool specifically for adjusting rear toe that works very nicely. I did my own alignment using strings and a tape measure since most alignment machines can't handle a lowered suspension and 3 degrees of negative camber. I am very satisfied with the results of my DIY alignment, plus it gives me the ability to tinker with alignment setting at no cost.

Adjusting rear toe is relatively easy, since you don't even have to raise the car off the ground. Simply loosen the three bolts a bit, slip the eccentric socket over the one bolt that has the two little stops on each side of it, and by turning the socket you can move the bracket in or out, until your satisfied with the toe setting. Then re-torque the three bolts. Done!

[ublemaschine]

you can eyeball it or you can just make the tool yourself with a piece of pipe/wood and a ruler. that is if your using oe replacements. personally i used UUC poly bushings. they give a stiffer feel to the car. they are 3 piece so no messing around with pressing them in and there is no preload

+1 on the poly bushings. Why put crappy stock ones back in anyway. I did not notice much of a difference in NVH, just the back feeling much more stable.

I guess you could tighten them on a four post lift with the suspension at normal height, Assuming you have access to one. Otherwise eyeball it I guess.

[Rajincajn]

Anyone has a "how to" on how to do a rear alignment on my 328I....I would really appreciate it very much...I have no alignments tools....

Thanks.

[Kaiv]

Personally I used UUC bushings. As far as preload I don't know how that works since they are urethane but in doubt I just followed the bentley manual's instructions (eyeballed with a flat edge)

[MaxxChris]

I used a piece straight wood when I did mine, I set it on the bottom of the bracket and made it roughly 8mm above the centerline of the wheel bearing. I know that TIS says above the casting mark but you cant see that with the rotor on and the victory tool sets it about 8mm above the centerline. Also, when you do it I found that if I tighten the bolt up to where you just about cant move the housing anymore and then use you straight edge to align, when you go to torque it it stays put and doesnt rotate anymore so it holds the alignment you set. It seemed quite easy actually.

[myblackcar]

When I installed my RTAB limiter shims, I used the diagrams from the manual as a guide and simply "eye-balled" it to where it looked pretty close. One of my RTABs was way out of alignment from the PO having the RTABs "professionally" replaced. At least now they're even! I don't think this preload adjustment needs to be as exact as it's made out to be. As long as it's close and both sides are even, you should be fine.

Dave

Just use a very long straight edge. It is $4 at Home depot.

[Righteous]

Wait, so if you use the UUC bushing you don't need to worry about preloading aligning?

[jb10]

Wait, so if you use the UUC bushing you don't need to worry about preloading aligning?

glad i found this thread! i am new here. i need to replace my bushing as well. i was going to go buy the oem from the dealer this afternoon but that doesn't seem like such a good idea now.
what are these UUC bushings that people are talking about? where can i get/order some from?

thanks in advance.

[Righteous]

glad i found this thread! i am new here. i need to replace my bushing as well. i was going to go buy the oem from the dealer this afternoon but that doesn't seem like such a good idea now.
what are these UUC bushings that people are talking about? where can i get/order some from?

thanks in advance.

Understeer.com $65 bought last night

[Sweeeems]

Yeah, I installed my UUC RTABs and really didn't see HOW to preload the bushing. The carriage seems to pivot on the bolt riding through the center of the bushing, after torquing it down. How ever tight that carriage is bolted with the bushing, the force of the suspension will still make it pivot there? Maybe I did it wrong?

[PHARMDVIPER]

ordered me a set of UUC's today

[iverson03tj]

sorry to bring up an old thread, but i could really use the help.....

So im in the process of overhauling my m3 rear end... and i am no sure if the previous owner has poly or oem bushines on the RTA but for sure i want to install the limiters!!

Last summer i had my gf and one of her friends in the car and i was doing only 100km on the highway, there was a corner with a little bump on it, it was raining (hydroplaned i guess) and the bump steer caused my car to spin out 4 times on 3 lanes of traffic, luckily i over took everyone and god somehow possessed my body and prevented me from hitting the guard rails and the tow truck right beside me (or it could be i got some nice ass intuition :P... i doubt it though)

Ever since then i am scared sh*tless to drive fast on wet conditions...

Anyways i been hearing from alot of part suppliers that i should only use oem bushings with limiters.... and that the poly bushings aren't able to handle the multi-axis movement that the bushings are subject to...

I just want it done right the first time, and never have to look back, or worry about bump steering

[bluptgm3]

What I've done in the past is -
1) With weight on wheels - Measure/record distance from the ground to the highest point of the wheel arch opening.
2) Pull the wheel by jacking @ the shock mount.
3) Lower the car and raise car back up till I achieve the same dimension to the wheel arch, from step one
4) Use a straight edge on the bottom of the 'body bracket' ('BB') and scribe a line w/sharpie marker on the rotor.
5) Re-install wheel, lower car, jacking car from differential, place on Jack Stands.
6) Remove wheels, release E-Brake, place gear selector in neutral.
7) Clean around bold heads and Mark around 'body bracket' attach fastener heads and remove 'body bracket' from pocket.
8) Remove 'BB' from RTA.
9) Remove RTAB. Install new RTAB.
10) Re-install 'BB' using straight edge and line on rotor (from step 4) to align and torque 'BB' on RTA to 81 ft-lbs..
(This step requires some realignment of scribe mark on rotor to straight edge. You will have to rotate the rotor slightly to realign the straight edge to the mark on the rotor, but it will align with to the straight edge.)
11) Re-install 'BB' in pocket, align 'BB' to fastener/fastener marks on 'BB' from above and torque to 57 ft-lbs..

RTA Bushing is now in 'neutral' rotational position @ nominal ride height. I've accomplished 27+ sets this way with only one set failure. In this case I identified leaking rear shock that needed to be replaced. Owner did not, relying on the RTAB for sole damping of rear suspension travel.

[aidan530]

Once again I'm going to bump this thread as I am going to replace rtab on an e46 m3 with oem bushings.
So just so I am understanding this correctly, the tool is used to set the console rotationally correct on the trailing arm?

Now could I not drive the car up onto ramps backwards, mark the console in relation to the trailing arm, jack car normally onto jackstands, replace bushings, then when I go to tighten the through bolt just line up the marks so when the car is at rest the bushing is not twisted at all.
Does that make sense or am I missing something?
Thanks for the help.

[trusted1]

Although an older thread, in case someone is also searching:

iverson03tj question/statement:

"Anyways i been hearing from alot of part suppliers that i should only use oem bushings with limiters.... and that the poly bushings aren't able to handle the multi-axis movement that the bushings are subject to..."

Does not seem to be valid with the E36 RTAB location as Ground Control has a bearing kit for race use and if a bearing will work, it would be logical that the RTAB is a single axis joint.

Does anyone have feedback on the increase in road noise with urethane RTAB bushings vs the OEM style M3 bushings with Ireland Engineering type limiters?

The complete urethane RTAB kit from IE is almost the same cost as most of the limiter kits. (although IE's RTAB "reinforcement" kit is less than GC, TMS or others I checked)

[flyfishvt]

The RTAB is a dual axis joint. It's as simple as that. I swapped out my stock RTABs and installed PowerFlex with zero noise increase.