Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 106

Thread: M50 megasquirt Plug n Play how to

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i

    M50 megasquirt Plug n Play how to

    As I have been promising this is the complete guide to megasquirting your m50. Lets begin

    For the other e34s see http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=856880

    Next up will be the m60 if there is any interest



    First you must gather all the tools and supplies

    From your local radio shack
    Soldering Iron
    .030 Rosin Solder
    Solder Wick (for your **** ups)
    Male and Female DB9s solder cup style
    Various colors of 20g stranded wire
    A few feet of 2 core (minimum) shielded wire
    Maybe a “third hand” or a nice girlfriend
    Assorted ¼ watt resistors (330, 1k, 2.2k, 4.7k, 10k, etc…)
    Two potentiometers (10k and 100k)
    Some 1n4001 diodes
    A package of npn type transistors (2n2222a for example)
    If you have vanos you need a relay too

    From DIYAutotune
    MS 2 v3 board with the black case (silver is for losers)
    External USB adapter
    Innovative LC-1

    From Glensgarage
    The 3 wire PWM idle valve board
    5 extra vb921 ignition drivers

    From your local hardware store
    A few nuts and bolts for securing the MS and grounding points
    1/8” electrical shrink wrap tubes
    Some sort of electrical insulation (hot glue, caulk, etc..)
    Crimp style ring connectors (yellow)
    Digital multimeter
    Grinder/dremel tool
    Screw driver set

    You will obviously need an ECU (preferably junked) but that don’t happen often


    Because of space constraints I have built mine externally unlike the motronic 1 units. If you got MS1 and are a very confident builder, an in box design could be done.






    First we are going to strip the ECU of its brains

    Remove the outer cover and all of the screws on the bottom. The boards should come free of the aluminum housing. Where the screws go through the board to the connector there will be a small metal ring. Grind it off the surface but don’t go too deep, we want to save the threads. Clip the leads on the other side leaving about ¼ inch still on the connector. Just remember the longer the pins are, the more brittle and easily bent they become. The connector should come free from the board. This must be done to both sides but don’t put the top piece back in right away. It is easier to get to the middle pins without the top pins in yet.




    Next we will build the Megasquirt



    -not so intimidating, is it.




    Follow the build instructions from the megamanual with a few exceptions
    -You do not need to install the coil driven tach signal, or the hall circuit so skip step 50. (on some of the later I6s a hall sensor was used but to my knowledge not on the e34)
    -on step 52, jumper VRIN in to TACHSELECT and TSEL to VROUTINV
    -Skip step 65, save the vb921 though
    -Also in the proto area, you must build the tach out circuit. Use the diagram from the MS1extra manual and send the signal wire to the IAC1A output near the DB37





    From the top side of R26,27,28 run a wire from each to the other 3 IAC ports by the db37 labled SPR. SPR1 is Spark A, 2 is B, 3 is C

    The Megasquirt is now complete. Next we will build the harness adapter.

    If you want you can buy the pre made harness but I think it could be a little hard to stuff it through the hole in the fire wall.


    If you are building your own (I recommend it) you will need about 24 wires cut about 2ft. in length and the shielded wire. Solder the wires to the db37 first. The 2 core shielded wire should be grounded on this end. I use pin 1 and 2 for the VR shield ground and sensor ground and the second wire connects to pin 5. It is important to remember which one is which. This is probably the most important wire of the bunch. . You need to use all of the bottom row (20-37) except for the IGN port (Pin 36) and two if the ports (29 & 31). On the top row almost all of the ports are grounds (except for 3-6). You don’t need to use all of them but at least 5 should be used, they will be combined to form the common ground. Pin 3-5 are spare outputs and will be used for spark. Pin 3 is A, 4 is B, 5 is C.

    Orient the DB37 the way that it will be mounted in the car. The MS case won’t fit very well front to back so I mount it sideways. The harness must be twisted to one side to fit through the hole any ways. Also, I decided to mount mine on the top of my glove box so that the harness wouldn’t be moved every time I open it. Bend all of the wires in whatever way you want to mount the box. Remember though, it can’t be any wider than the hole it has to go through.




    Before you solder the harness to the back of the 88pin you need to build a circuit to control the relays


    These diagrams should help in the construction of the relay circuit


    -The emitter connects to the ground wire
    -The base connects to pin 56 with a 4.7k ohm resistor in line
    -The Collector connects to pin 27
    -Solder the 1n4001 (D1) diode across Pin 26 and 27 with the banded end towards 18


    Secure the transistor to the case with hot glue or silicone caulk. It would be a good idea to cover the entire back side of the 88 pin connector in silicone caulk once the harness is complete. This will also help wires from accidentally breaking loose if they were not soldered very well (shit happens, plan accordingly)

    Next cut another 10 or so wires about 10 in. long. These will be for combining the grounds on the stock harness. Connect one to every GND point on the 88pin and combine them all in a ring connector. Pick one of the holes (or drill your own) on the base plate and put a bolt through it. This will be your common GND.

    Then we will solder the coil driver wires to the 88pin. I use 3 different colors (RED, GRN, BLK)(two of each) for the ignition component because we are firing the coils in pairs. Cyl 1 & 6 are paired on RED, 2&5 on GRN, 3&4 on BLK. Just leave these wires on the harness with about 8 inches of slack. We won’t build the IGN circuitry until later.

    Cut another three wires about 10 in. for the IAC open and close. These will go the board from glensgarage. You will also need to bring out 12v from the same place the MS gets power.

    For the injectors you need to combine cyl 1-3 into one bank and 4-6 into another. Cyl 1-3 get connected to the first two injector wires and 4-6 to the second pair.

    The rest are fairly straight forward. Just solder the wires straight to the corresponding pin. Try to keep all of the wires going straight to the MS box as close to the 88 pin as possible. You still need room for the idle board and 6 vb921 ignition drivers.



    First Number is the Motronic connector and 2nd is where it goes.



    M50 NON VANOS

    1- 37
    2- Idle Board (ISV2)
    3,4,5 Fuel Injector Pin 32,33
    6 GND
    12- 22
    23- Coil 2
    24- Coil 3
    25- coil 1
    26- Constant 12v- Banded end of 1n4001
    27- Relay control Circuit (other end of 1n4001)
    28- GND
    29- Idle Board (ISV1)
    31,32,33 Fuel Injector Pin 33,34
    34- GND
    36- GND (optional, evap purge valve)
    37- GND
    50- Coil 4
    51- Coil 6
    52- Coil 5
    54- Pin 28 and idle board
    55- GND
    56- Switched 12v- Relay control circuit
    59- TPS 5v- 26
    67- VR sensor (24)
    68- VR sensor (7)
    70- 23
    71- GND
    74- Tach o (one of the IAC ports)
    77- 20
    78- 21



    M50tu

    1- Fuel Pump relay -37
    2- Idle valve close (ISV2 on glens board)
    3,4,5- Fuel inj 4-6 (34,35)
    6- GND
    7- Vanos activation (grounded via relay)
    13- O2 sensor -23
    14- MAF GND (optional)
    15- GND
    16- crank sensor - 7
    23- Coil 4
    24- Coil 6
    25- Coil 5
    26- constant 12v - banded end if 1n4001 in main relay circuit
    27- Main relay CTRL - other end of 1n4001 and leg of 2n2222a
    28- GND
    29- Idle open (ISV1 on glens board)
    31,32,33- Injectors 1-3 - (32,33)
    34- GND
    38- O2 relay (GND)
    40- o2 GND
    41- MAF signal (optional)
    43- crank sensor (24)
    44- GND
    45- GND
    47- Tach out (whatever pin you used, 25 if you followed my directions)
    50- Coil 1
    51- coil 2
    52- Coil 3
    54- +12v (28) (and glens board)
    55- GND
    56- Switched 12v (resistor in line with 2n2222a in relay circuit)
    59- TPS 5v (26)
    71- GND
    73- TPS signal (22)
    77- IAT (20)
    78- CLT (21)







    Once the main wires have been completed mount all 6 of the vb921s in a row on the right side of the case. Combine all of the dumps (when the pins are facing you, the right one, or "pin 3") to the common ground. Solder one coil pin to the middle pin (pin 2) going in order from top to bottom (spark 1 at top and 6 at bottom). Then on the left pin (pin 1) pin solder a 660 ohm resistor. On the other end of the resistor is going to be the signal wire from megasuirt. You will need combine the paired cylinders here. Combine 1 & 6 for spark A, 2 & 5 for spark B, 3 & 4 for spark C. I would also highly recommend you place a modular connector (mollex or db9) in the line to megasquirt for the spark outputs. When you flash firmware you need to unhook the coils and it would be a lot easier here than doing every coil individually. I hope this isn’t too confusing, I will get some pics up soon.

    This Should help





    This one was for an m52 so the coils are on the wrong side but you get the idea







    Next you need to mount and wire the idle board. You need to ground it to the central ground and get a 12v feed from the same pin MS gets it. ISV1 goes to the Idle valve open pin and ISV2 is close. The signal from MS goes to FIDLE. If this sounds confusing on paper it is very obvious when the board is in front of you.

    The last step is to install the relay for the VANOS solenoid. Wiring is simple and mounting will vary with the relay chosen.
    Long story short, pin 7 needs to be grounded on cue. Build a relay control circuit in the proto area with the control wire coming out pin 27

    Use this diagram




    O2 sensor.

    As stated earlier, i highly recommend th LC-1. Place it in the stock sensor location and hack off the pigtail from your old sensor. If you ever want to go back to motronic, the LC-1 can simulate a narrow band.

    Wire the LC-1 straight in to the pig tail and seal it with heat shrink

    Pin 1- Sensor GND- GRY
    Pin 2- Signal - BLK
    Pin 3- GND- White
    Pin 4- 12v- White



    Use an ohm meter to determine which white wire to use for power

    From LC-1
    BLU and WHT are both GND- combine them with a spare black wire about 4 ft long and conect them to the GND wires on the Bosch connector
    RED wire is power, conect it to the 12v white wire
    BRN wire is output 1 and will go to the BLK wire
    BLK wire is the calibration wire. Connect about 4 ft of RED wire to it
    YLW wire is output 2. It can be used for a guage or leave it there and tuck it in out of the way

    The spare BLK and RED wires you attached are for the calibration button. Run them into the cabin of your car ( i ran them up through the shift boot and keep them hidden under the shifter. Connect the switch and LED to the two wires as outlined in the LC-1 manual. The Red wire on the LED connects to the RED wire you brought in. The switch wont matter. If you want you could use any led and switch you want and make a nice mounting plate for in front of the shifter for other switches and gauges. I made a plate out of wood and put my launch control, LC-1 switch and LED, and a USB port for easy access and will add things as i go. It looks very nice.



    Tap into the vacuum system for your car with the T connector. The best way is to use the lines from either the FPR or the one running to the underside of the intake boot above the harness. Cut the hose and place the T in. Run the Vacuum line into the ECU box.

    Now you are ready to power it up for the first time. After you have installed and configured Megatune you can download your firmware. Do not use the base codes. Go to MSExtra.com and go to the MS2 development section and download the latest beta (unless you have MS1). In the file there will be 2 .ini files. Double click both of them and follow the instructions (make sure you disconnect the coil first)


    Ryan Nimick (Goathumper)
    Nov 24, 2007

    Me:
    Last edited by Goathumper; 04-22-2008 at 04:05 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    More pics coming soon, and ive still got a few things to add when i get home.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    NoVA
    Posts
    13,224
    My Cars
    135i
    Holy... crap. Nice...
    E82 135i: Alpine white on black leather; ZSP; ZCW; iPod/USB
    Previous Bimmers owned (from last to first): E46 M3, E34 540i/6, E30 325iS, E34 525i, E30 318i

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New York City/Pittsburg
    Posts
    962
    My Cars
    1992 Turbo Integra, 1995 Turbo 525i
    HELLA. SICK.

    Orders all placed. Bless you man .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    holy bawls, the safety police already got me

    They censored meeeeee.....noooooooo

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    1,941
    My Cars
    1993 525iT/5, 1998 M3
    Holy shit, props on that write up, that's killer. The diagrams are great too, easy to follow, Ill have to try this. That looks like my voltmeter, and weak R-Shack solder iron.

    Oh and your post count is 666

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Covington, Ga
    Posts
    2,853
    My Cars
    08 535i, 95 540 MSport
    Quote Originally Posted by Goathumper View Post
    More pics coming soon, and ive still got a few things to add when i get home.
    Goathumper

    1 question....: any motornic box or M50 specific? like I have a M50 NV that is apart right now and this is an awsome way to go....I will be contacting you off thread if that is okay with you.......

    My props to you younster the write up is great....just like 'UM'

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Lincoln, NE
    Posts
    3,561
    My Cars
    E23 735i
    Great write-up, thanks!
    1986 BMW 735i Turbo, 5-speed
    2010 Mazda5
    1966 Corvair Sedan

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mechanicsburg, PA
    Posts
    4,579
    My Cars
    yes
    Nice. Very Nice.

    Don

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    Quote Originally Posted by e34biturbo View Post
    Goathumper

    1 question....: any motornic box or M50 specific? like I have a M50 NV that is apart right now and this is an awsome way to go....I will be contacting you off thread if that is okay with you.......

    My props to you younster the write up is great....just like 'UM'
    Any 88 pin will work. Same goes for the other cars. As long as the plug fits you are fine.

    BTW, feel free to contact me with Qs. I will add these things to the original writeup.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    287
    My Cars
    95 525I
    wow awesome writeup, but most of it flew over my head, since I have no electrical experience.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Pluto
    Posts
    14,460
    My Cars
    93 325iS
    OBD2 plugs require slight dremal fixes, it took me all of 15sec to make an OBD2 motronic box fit my OBD1 harness.

    Ryan, so how did you deal with securing the pins in the motronic box, how yours wires are routed, I would worry about breaking the pins off the connector. Also I think some of the wire gauge you used may be under size, do you have a chart for what you used? As well as perhaps pictures of the MS unit?

    Freaking looks clean tho, good work!

    -Roman

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    wires are 20g and 18g. When i am worried about over amperage, i double up the wires. To secure the pins, i covered the back in silicon caulk when i finished. I still have a few things like these to add.


    More pictures to come, these are just the ones i already had uploaded. The rest are on my main pc back home.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    430
    My Cars
    1992 535i ,building s38-e30
    I was considering a miller maf because i feel my car should be able to atleast squeel its tires..(it cant) However i have been following your thread on the ms. The MS seems like a better choice and if i read this correctly if i should turbo at a later date for more power it would be easy to recalibrate for this? I already have a laptop in the car for windows media player. But i am a technotard do you build a unit that can plug in to the harness with minimal mods. and would the car start and run (be drivable) with minimal programing?. Finaly is it reliable enough for daily use? Thank you

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    yes, it is daily drivable. I dont have another car and dont feel the need. The ONLY mod you need to make to your harness is to accommodate a TPS. If you want, you can run an external line for one so you wont have to make any cuts at all. The units i make are built with ease of install in mind.

    The tuning is up to you but yes, it wouldn't be hard at all to accommodate for boost.

    This is speaking of the m30 (not to confuse anybody)

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    A little update. Tis is how i ran the cables for the LC-1. I had way too much slack but you get the idea.






    Everything plugs in as stock.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    06478
    Posts
    2,983
    My Cars
    2 e30's and an e34
    Damn man killer write up. How different is this for the MSI v2.2 set up?

    THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!
    -Chris

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    the board version is not so important, but i would sugest the MS2 chip and version 3 board (or 3.57, the surface mount board) The version 2 board should work but i am not familliar with it.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    162
    My Cars
    94 525i M50
    omg ur like some sort of a genious....and ur like my ageish.....and ur post count is 777 sweet
    [url=http://profile.xfire.com/puci][img]http://miniprof




  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New York City/Pittsburg
    Posts
    962
    My Cars
    1992 Turbo Integra, 1995 Turbo 525i
    woo woo
    power supply portion passed all tests
    loopback test work also... yesss...
    should be ready to test as soon as i finish up and my ecu arrives sometime this week to make a harness

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New York City/Pittsburg
    Posts
    962
    My Cars
    1992 Turbo Integra, 1995 Turbo 525i
    up for an update ryan ?

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    working on it right now

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New York City/Pittsburg
    Posts
    962
    My Cars
    1992 Turbo Integra, 1995 Turbo 525i
    Cool, I'll be glad to share pictures and any other info I have... Unfortunately, I don't get back to my ms2 and camera at school until Jan 14th.
    Going to make the harness and install some goodies while I am home though.
    And that pesky .msq setup... good times!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,617
    My Cars
    e34 BMW 535i
    there ya go, all better

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Pluto
    Posts
    14,460
    My Cars
    93 325iS
    Hey Ryan, I was wondering if perhaps you had the idle settings for an M50 idle valve?

    Thanks,
    Roman

Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •