Heater Core Removal Question on a "95" E36

[///Mracer]

I have been searching the forums and I am still confused on the best thing to do for a 95 M3 in terms of the 3 coolant lines. I have the entire heater core out and the removable portion of the firewall out.

I would prefer not removing the manifold unless it is absolutely necessary.

So, the big question, on a 95 can I just plug all three coolant hoses or loop them?

Thanks

[jmitro]

it would be nearly impossible to splice the coolant lines without removing the manifold. i have a photo I can post if you need to look at it. Some of the hoses you can remove, but the line going from the head into the heater core must instead be routed back up to the front of the head. it's nearly impossible to get this spliced together without removing the manifold.

[badmonkey]

Delete the manifold, loop the remaining coolant hoses.

...

[///Mracer]

well if I have to remove the manifold I will. Any pics would be greatly appreciated. Also, anyone have a good DIY for removing manifold

The good thing is that I have 4 months until the next race

[jmitro]

removing the manifold is not as complicated as it seems. edit...see here:http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...e-Manifold.htm.
here's a few photos that hopefully will help you out. first is with the manifold off, showing the heater core hoses. the red labeled hose must be spliced to the yellow labeled hose to form a hose indicated by the second yellow line. confused? second photo shows the heater core hole blocked off with aluminum plate. last is how i spliced the hoses together.

[///Mracer]

Thanks for the pics! I guess I will also have a better understanding of what is going on down there once I actually get the mani off and have a looksee.

[ETM]

Make a block off plate at the back of the cylinder head. Find a hose to connect the bung behind the water pump to the hose that runs to the coolant resevoir. Thats all that is required. No loop, it will only return hot water from the head to the block.

[///Mracer]

Make a block off plate at the back of the cylinder head. Find a hose to connect the bung behind the water pump to the hose that runs to the coolant resevoir. Thats all that is required. No loop, it will only return hot water from the head to the block.

I would assume that would requiring removing hte manifold correct?

[TIATO]

I did my coolant line loop without removing the manifold. Sure it is harder, but not impossible.

Key is having some components out of the way. When you remove the core, you also have to remove the wipers, lower window cowling and loosen the long rectangular enclosure that sits right behind above the manifold and to which the engine harness runs out of / in to, from the firewall.

Getting the rectangular box out of the way is KEY. I used a bungee to keep it out of the way. Removing the heater valve also frees up some room. I just cut the hoses at the valve and fire wall heater core flange,to make removal easier as the hoses can be hard to remove by hand. With the hoses cut, window/windshield washer cowl and core out, you can remove the plastic flange to which the other end of the hoses attached to and led through the fire wall.

With the heater valve out and the fire wall hose flange out, only 2 hoses coming from the engine will remian. The remaining hoses will have to be trimmed on a best fit basis to accept a 90 degree brass elbow.

[joon]

Hey this is great! I was thinking of buyin all the OEM hoses to do my heater/TB bypass/Euro expansion tank -> http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2&postcount=78

Your solution looks much more cost effective and elegant
Do you happen to remember the hose sizes?

[jmitro]

I THINK it was 0.75" ID but I can't remember for sure.

[M3Tony]

Quick question on time for removing the heater core...

If the engine is already out (getting a rebuild).. how much time would be a fair estimate for a shop to remove the heater core, plug the hole in the firewall, and splice/loop the lines?

Thanks

[TIATO]

Having the engine out only facilitates the line spilce/loop and heater valve removal and acess to heater core fan motor area.

For the heather core you still have to remove the entire dash, Radio and climate control stuff.

You save at most, maybe 20 minutes.

[JClark]

If you have the engine out already, have them loop the lines so you wont have to take the intake manifold off again later.

[M3Tony]

Having the engine out only facilitates the line spilce/loop and heater valve removal and acess to heater core fan motor area.

For the heather core you still have to remove the entire dash, Radio and climate control stuff.

You save at most, maybe 20 minutes.

Radio and all the center console is already out... so the dash, hvac controls... how much time did it take you to disassemble for the heater core removal and reassemble? I just want a ballpark so I know if what I'm quoted is inline. Thanks!

[TIATO]

Ok, radio, center console (shifter surround) is out.

OTTMH, that leaves glove box, passenger side under dash panel, drivers side underdash panel, knee bolster panel, knee bolster, steering wheel, wheel trim, pass side airbag, dash end trim, light switch, dash cluster. You will have to remove all dash air vents and some duct work underneath.

Youd have to unplug the heater core electrics - 6 connectors to control motors, HVAC control connectors.

Heater core is retained by 4 nuts, accessible from under the windshield washer trim panel.

Im thinking, 1.5 - 2 hours of work.

[M3Tony]

I actually have a bit more out than just the radio, center console... all this too is out:

leaves glove box, passenger side under dash panel, drivers side underdash panel, knee bolster panel, knee bolster, wheel trim, pass side airbag,

Only items in: sparco steering wheel... dash vents (minus the one above the glovebox that is out) and duct work, dash end trim, light switch, dash cluster...

With those out... you're saying Youd have to unplug the heater core electrics - 6 connectors to control motors, HVAC control connectors.

Heater core is retained by 4 nuts, accessible from under the windshield washer trim panel.

So definitely under 2 hrs... even adding in the splicing based on your 20-30mins it could be around 2 hrs.

Thanks, your reply was very informative and much appreciated.

[TIATO]

I actually have a bit more out than just the radio, center console... all this too is out:


Only items in: sparco steering wheel... dash vents (minus the one above the glovebox that is out) and duct work, dash end trim, light switch, dash cluster...

With those out... you're saying Youd have to unplug the heater core electrics - 6 connectors to control motors, HVAC control connectors.

Heater core is retained by 4 nuts, accessible from under the windshield washer trim panel.

So definitely under 2 hrs... even adding in the splicing based on your 20-30mins it could be around 2 hrs.

Thanks, your reply was very informative and much appreciated.

Excellent. Definately under 2 hours then. Also, under the windshield defrost vent covers, there are 3 screws (left, right and center) you have to remove to get the dash out.

[ek spec e36]

My E36 is street/track, if I remove the heater core, can I still keep the A/C? In my understanding, the AC and Heater are 2 seperate unit, right?
Also, after i spliced the hoses together, I can discard the water valve, right?

[tammer]

I can't imagine any scenario in which A/C is more important than the heater core. Delete the A/C and keep the heat if you want to shed weight in a car that sees street use. There's a reason that most HVAC systems default to heater on/defroster on if they fail.

I'm struggling with this decision myself. Definitely the A/C is going, but I can't decide if I should delete the heater core or not. The car is still streetable but far from street-driven--it gets driven a few weekends a year, to/from track, and that's it. But even at that, if it's a cold morning and I'm on my way to WGI, I want a defroster (and warm toes don't hurt).

-tammer

[ek spec e36]

Well, I know I should keep the heater not the AC, but it reach over 100F in here (Sacramento, CA). That's why I want the AC instead of heater! Can't wait to save enough $$ for a truck and trailer.

[///Mracer]

I can't imagine any scenario in which A/C is more important than the heater core. Delete the A/C and keep the heat if you want to shed weight in a car that sees street use. There's a reason that most HVAC systems default to heater on/defroster on if they fail.

I'm struggling with this decision myself. Definitely the A/C is going, but I can't decide if I should delete the heater core or not. The car is still streetable but far from street-driven--it gets driven a few weekends a year, to/from track, and that's it. But even at that, if it's a cold morning and I'm on my way to WGI, I want a defroster (and warm toes don't hurt).

-tammer

if you still drive it to the track, definitly keep your heater core. The 20 lbs you save is not worth the hassel.

[S1Driver]

I was going to remove my heater but don't want to be cold in the winter. I've been told the unit is not heavy at all, but somehow I fail to believe that. Anyone got an exact weight?

[=BA=]

I think it's along the lines of 10 KG. It actually weighed more then I originally thought.

[=BA=]

Can't think of any occasion where I got cold in a racecar lol.

Defogging is more of an issue but can be solved like you said.

Otherwise a heated windshield is a nice solution if you ever crack your original.