Modding 101- Basics of the most common modifications for our cars :)

[Garrett M]

What modifications can I get on my E36 M3?

We find a lot of new user and some old users asking that same question…

To be completely honest the best place to spend your money at first is maintenance. Our cars are old and most have high mileage; OEM parts DON’T last forever and do need to be replaced. A few good places to start are-

-Rear trailing arm bushings- aka RTABs- Replacing them can prevent severe subframe damage. While also improving the cars handling.

-Lower control arm bushing- aka LCABs- Worn bushings can lead to toe change and suspension clunking.

-Rear shock mounts- aka RSMs- A very easy and cheap upgrade. If left uncheck they can tear right through shock tower and require a costly repair. Many people get Z3 reinforcement plates to help prevent any future problems.

-Water Pump- A broken water pump is the easiest way to ruin your engine. If your car is over heating get it checked out.

-Shock and Struts- Replacing these keeps them from blowing out and causing damage to your car. There are many options to choose from when upgrading.

-Fluids and oils- Make sure to routinely check your oil! Also other fluids such as transmission, brake, differential fluids need to be replaced every now and then

Note-There are many more maintenance parts to be replaced, do your research. Check out the Edge Motorworks sticky at the top of the section. But, also remember that there is more then one make of each of these parts. Some are an upgrade from OEM, while cheap quality parts can actually be a downgrade.




Ok now...On to the "Performance" mods




What should I modify first?

This a basic list of common modifications you would most likely find installed on E36 M3s. But, before you swipe your card make sure you’re buying the correct mod for your cars. US E36 M3s came with two different engines; the S50 and the S52. Both of which respond differently to certain mods so….Do your research!

- Cold Air Intake- The cold air intake aka CAI is used to bring down the temperature of air going into the engine. By doing this you will get a better throttle response, a meaner in-cabin growl and claims of HP/TQ increase. CAIs typically run about $300.00. Note- Keeping your filter clean will help provide better performance.
- Performance Software- Software will reroute the engines control unit. In return you will have a revised rev-limiter, higher top speed, increased throttle response and claims of more HP/TQ. The average price for a chip is roughly $300.00
- Underdrive Pulleys- Pulleys free up lost power in the engine. For a better understanding visit http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/. Pulleys will typically run you $180.00.
- Euro HFM- A Euro HFM allows more air from the CAI to flow into the engine for better performance. Average price typically runs around $350.00
- OBDI Intake Manifold- Is a great conversion kit for post 1995 M3’s only (S52 OBDII), http://www.koperformance.com/BMW/engine/manifolds/ko/ko_performance_bmw_parts_m50_manifold_conversion_k it_e36_m3.htm is a great link filled with information. It can dramatically increase the power out put of your S52.
- Cat Back Exhaust- Exhaust will allow your car to breathe better, helping it perform at its best. But, exhausts typically aren’t known as great power adders, they’re more or less used for better sound, weight reduction, and appearance. Exhaust typically cost around $700.00
- Track Pipes- Track pipes are a popular mod among the tuner community because they can increase power, lighten the car, and make a better sounding exhaust. You can find new track pipes for around $700.00
- Fly Wheel- Fly wheels grip the drivetran better allowing the engine to rev up quicker and ‘freer.’ This makes revmatching and downshifting smoother and easier. Plan on spending around $700-800 dollars.
- Short Shift Kit- Short shift kits aka SSK are a cheap and easily installed. They’re very popular among tuners because they shorten the “shift throw” allowing you to essentially shift faster. Average price $300.00.
- X-Brace- X-braces are popular among trackers because they stiffen the car up at a very affordable price of around $130.00
- Springs-After market springs stiffen up the suspension to improve handling, and possibly lower the car. Make sure the springs are compatible with your shocks and that you don’t need spacers. They run around $300.00
- Shocks and struts- After market shocks and struts stiffen up the suspension to improve handling, and possibly lower the car. Make sure you buy the appropriate shocks and struts for your springs. Prices vary.
- Coilovers- Are probably the best mod for our cars to improve handling. Coilovers are adjustable shocks and springs that can raise or lowered. When purchasing Coilovers make sure you are getting spring rates that suite you well. Coilover prices vary.

[xsport652]

awesome thanks a lot garret m. This will anwser a lot of questions out there. Maybe we could sticky this.

[Rennmeister M3]

Someone got bored.

BTW, we have the same birth date.

[Garrett M]

awesome thanks a lot garret m. This will anwser a lot of questions out there. Maybe we could sticky this.

That would be most good.

Someone got bored.

lol.

[libravcs]

A good list, but it would be good to paint the whole picture on many of the mods. Ie, removing the cat in the U.S might gain hp, but also reduces backpressure and therefore might reduce torque as a standalone mod. And even more importantly, it harms the ozone and our environment, and is a violation of Federal Law. And I have a lightweight flywheel on my track M3, and did a lot of dyno and track testing. while the flywheel def helps response, I noticed no Hp/Torque gains, and no 0-60 improvements with it. Cheers

[Garrett M]

A good list, but it would be good to paint the whole picture on many of the mods. Ie, removing the cat in the U.S might gain hp, but also reduces backpressure and therefore might reduce torque as a standalone mod. And even more importantly, it harms the ozone and our environment, and is a violation of Federal Law. And I have a lightweight flywheel on my track M3, and did a lot of dyno and track testing. while the flywheel def helps response, I noticed no Hp/Torque gains, and no 0-60 improvements with it. Cheers

I understand. As I said they are just the basics to point users in the right directions. As for some of the claims, theyre just claims I have gathered from other users, experiences, and websites. Feel free to PM if you would like some info added.

[Volcom8190]

good post for noobs, needs to be stickied

[Garrett M]

Update- As requested i will be making a more indepth mod list.

[Garrett M]

Updated

[xsport652]

If I may add some.

Other Suspension

Shocks - The most popular choice here are bilstein's as they are fairly easy to put on compared to the Koni's. Koni's require a little more DIY with installation. Pretty much the overall consensus is that Bilstein's have stiffer dampening while the Koni's are softer.

Springs - Pretty much everyone here uses H&R's line of springs. going from low to lowest is
o.e. sport - lower about .25 to .5 an inch
sport - lower about 1 to 1.2 inches (imo best compromise for driveability/performance)
race - lower about 1.5 to 2 inches

[swollix]

need swaybars and strutbars, and fan delete.

[raceboy614]

how about the M50 manifold for S52 cars.

[Garrett M]

+1 will add tomorrow thanks guys

[upperguy]

you spelled brake wrong...

[erobinson]

Just some things I disagree with, but this list will be very helpful to noobs:

Flywheel: Won't improve acceleration, will improve throttle response and allow quicker downshifts. You should also mention lightweight flywheels pretty much all chatter at idle since many people complain about this.

BBK - Less of an improvement than you imply. Stock brakes on our cars work very well. A BBK will be unlikely to reduce stopping distance, as our brakes can quite easily lock up the tires (better tires WILL reduce stopping distance). BBK's can allow new choice in pad compounds, and potentially larger pads, reducing brake fade, which is important in track conditions... but basically useless on the street.

Track Pipe - Definitely not the best value mod for OBDII. The M50 manifold easily the best value mod available for OBDII motors.

3.5" HFM - Some say this can actually lose power on OBDII motors and I haven't seen any strong evidence it improves power on OBDII. This is a fairly proven mod for OBDI though.

Headers - Often can reduce torque without significant other mods. Can be had for ~$400 off ebay and seem to work fine. A couple members have done quite extensive tests on these.

Injectors - Should mention they are generally only necessary once you have many mods, pretty much only seem necessary for people with cams.

Pulleys - Mention something about the fact you shouldn't use an underdriven crank pulley on our cars.

Finally, in general I don't think you should mention brands, or if you do then you should be more extensive in your list.

Thanks for taking the time to make this.

[bmwtuner325is]

how is this not stickied?!

[///dustin]

good information for noobs. very very poorly written though.

[Garrett M]

good information for noobs. very very poorly written though.

haha yeah I was just pumping it out

[libravcs]

BBK - Less of an improvement than you imply. Stock brakes on our cars work very well. A BBK will be unlikely to reduce stopping distance, as our brakes can quite easily lock up the tires (better tires WILL reduce stopping distance). BBK's can allow new choice in pad compounds, and potentially larger pads, reducing brake fade, which is important in track conditions... but basically useless on the street.

100% accurate, and very well put.

[328iJunkie]

Should be sticiked. Might also be cool to put a few websites and or vendors and stuff up there to find these products...

[m3girl]

Thanks

[ParadigmGuy]

This should NOT be stickied.

I appreciate the effort, but I'd say that you have more incorrect information than you do correct. erobinson pointed out several of the items.

Here are a few others...

Engine:...some say the 3.0 respond much better. - I can't imagine why anyone would think that is correct, it isn't.

Performance Software- aka: Chip- A chip basically reroutes and updates the engines control unit. Chips can take both the rev limiter and top speed governor off, increase throttle response and power. They go well with a CAI. Active Autowerks and Dinan both make great chips. Although, some prefer to get a custom chip to suit their mods more appropriately. Average price is around $300 dollars. - I don't know why anyone would want their rev limiter removed. The intent of getting a software upgrade is to remap the timing and fuel for increased performance. And not all software upgrades are chips.

Underdrive Pulleys- aka: Pulleys- Pulleys allow the car to harness all the power from the engine. For a better understanding visit http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ for a in depth explanation. Average price $180 dollars. - Pulleys are great - but they don't allow you to harness all the power from the engine.

Euro HFM- Euro HFMs all a better air flow to the engine. They also require a HFM adaptor and chip. Average price is around $350 dollars. An HFM does not require a chip, or software upgrade.

Camshaft- aka: Cams- Cams are known as the best no FI bolt on mod you can buy. The dramatically increase HP and TQ. Before you buy a cam make sure your car is ready for one. They require other mods to allow them to work. Check out what Schrick and Sunbelt have to offer for our cars. Average price is around $1000+ dollars. Cams are not he best non-FI bolt-on that you can buy. They also don't require other mods to allow them to work.

Fuel Injectors- To allow our engine to have enough fuel we must upgrade to larger fuel injectors once we start modifying. You don't need larger injectors unless you're going FI.

Track Pipe- Probably known as the best bang for your buck mod. They increase power, sound and lighten the car. AA makes a great track pipe. Average price $750 dollars. - Definitely not the best bang for your buck.

[/FONT]
-Fly Wheel- Fly wheels are an expensive and hard mod to install; they are typically replaced with the clutch. Fly wheels are known to improve acceleration, save weight and increase throttle response. Also, upgraded fly wheels are mandatory for higher horse power cars. Average price- $750 dollars - They are not mandatory for higher horsepower cars.

-Clutch- The clutch like the flywheel is also a mandatory for higher powered cars. Average Prices- varies depending on material and other factors. - Also not mandatory for higher horsepower cars. The stock clutch can easily handle 400 RWHP without a problem.

- Big Break Kits- aka BBK- BBKs can be very costly, sometimes several thousand dollars. However, they improve braking tremendously. BBKs allow heavier braking over longer periods of time without brake failure, increased stopping power and shorter stopping…But! Can add more weight to your car. Pssp! It’s worth it. Prices vary. As erobinson said, a BBK will not allow you to stop quick. It looks cool, and for the guys who track their cars, it will help prevent brake fade. This is not needed for street cars.

-Differentials- aka Diffs- Diffs will change the gearing of your car, top speed and acceleration. While these are an expensive mod many people call some diffs “The poor mans supercharger.” Do your research and make sure they are right for you. Prices vary. - Although correct information, it doesn't really say what it is.

-Coilovers- aka Coils- Yield the greatest handling improvement over any other suspension mods. Coilovers are adjustable springs and shocks that can be raised or lowered. The spring rate varies depending on how stiff you want them. Many people prefer coils over shocks/struts but they are expensive and require more attention. Average price $1,200 dollars. Coilovers are not referred to as coils. Coils are part of your ignition system. They also don't require any additional attention.

[328iJunkie]

Man has a point

[Garrett M]

This should NOT be stickied.

I appreciate the effort, but I'd say that you have more incorrect information than you do correct. erobinson pointed out several of the items.

Here are a few others...

Software-Let me correct myself ‘revise the rev limiter”

Pulleys- harness more power

Euro HFM- TMS claims it needs a chip to run properly http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...ID=13621403123

Cams- what other none FI bolt on give you better hp/tq? Also it not mandatory but other mods are highly rec.

Fuel injectors- are rec after a few mods to keep a good air to fuel ratio

Fly/clutch – can you run oem on your car?

Coilovers- sorry when I chat I refer them to coils I will change that. Adjusting them is more attention than non adjustable? Its been said to corner balance your car after adjusting.

[ParadigmGuy]

Pulleys - free up power, they don't harness anything but the belts.

Euro HFM - Not only does Turner say that it requires a chip, it says that it requires a TMS chip. Think there might be some marketing in there?

Cams - OBD1 Intake Manifold.

Fuel Injectors - Very few NA cars make enough power that larger injectors are needed. The DME is what controls the Air/Fuel ratio, not the injectors. The injectors just give you the ability to run more fuel.

Fly/clutch - Mine is not the standard FI M3. There are only a few built as much as mine in the states. For people running 400 RWHP or less (that is most FI), stock on both is fine. Additionally, some people prefer the added load of the stock flywheel so they keep that when upgrading a clutch.

Coilovers - Once you set them you never have to adjust them again unless you'd like to change the ride height. Most people never do.