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Thread: JL Audio cleansweep OEM audio interface

  1. #1
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    JL Audio cleansweep OEM audio interface

    Has anyone tried this as a means to keep stock head unit but allow for clean expansion of power and drivers? Especially curious if you tried in a e39

    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?prod_id=369

  2. #2
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    What system do you have in the car? the cleansweep should only be used as a last resort (usually with cars that have fiber optic amps. If you have the stock nav w/ dsp you can buy a non dsp cable for your changer then use the inputs from your stock amp to run to an Audiocontrol LC6. that will give you the RCA's for front,rear and Sub and also supply a remote volume knob for the sub

  3. #3
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    I have the stock non-DSP business head unit in the 530. The LS6 is discontinued, but after reading it to me it looks like what the JL unit does, which is accept analog high level inputs and convert them into digital 8v line outs to feed into an amp. Am I correct?

    Have you used the audiocontrol unit? I'm planning on keeping the stock head unit for security reasons, so right now I'm planning out the system design and this piece is the first one I need to figure out. The rest is somewhat easy and just a matter of picking out a brand and model of amp and speakers. I'm trying to decide if I should for now keep the stock amp and upgrade to the rainbow stage 1 separates and if that will sound good off the stock amp. Then its just a matter of adding the sub amp, and sub box.

    I will be trying to design a box for two element designs 7" subs or JL 6" subs to mount under the rear deck and vent into the cabin.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wurmy77 View Post
    What system do you have in the car? the cleansweep should only be used as a last resort (usually with cars that have fiber optic amps. If you have the stock nav w/ dsp you can buy a non dsp cable for your changer then use the inputs from your stock amp to run to an Audiocontrol LC6. that will give you the RCA's for front,rear and Sub and also supply a remote volume knob for the sub

  4. #4
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    I hear its amazing. Great device and highly recommended by many installer friends of mine.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmannino View Post
    I hear its amazing. Great device and highly recommended by many installer friends of mine.
    Which one? The 7" elemental designs sub, or the audio control?

    thanks

  6. #6
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    the reason you do not need a cleansweep is because there is no Equalization on the 4 channel output from the OEM system when you grab the signal before the amp. You can really just use a Good LOC because of the high output that the BMW has. the reason we use Audiocontrol LC6 and LC8 is to give customers the capability to control the subwoofer volume. You can also use the new part from Peripheral Electronics PCH8. I have Upgraded many Pre Idrive 7 series, 5 series and X5 without the help of a Cleansweep.

  7. #7
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    That sounds good, because a good LOC is about $39-59 so that is more affordable. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Wurmy77 View Post
    the reason you do not need a cleansweep is because there is no Equalization on the 4 channel output from the OEM system when you grab the signal before the amp. You can really just use a Good LOC because of the high output that the BMW has. the reason we use Audiocontrol LC6 and LC8 is to give customers the capability to control the subwoofer volume. You can also use the new part from Peripheral Electronics PCH8. I have Upgraded many Pre Idrive 7 series, 5 series and X5 without the help of a Cleansweep.

  8. #8
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    Cleansweep
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wurmy77 View Post
    the reason you do not need a cleansweep is because there is no Equalization on the 4 channel output from the OEM system when you grab the signal before the amp. You can really just use a Good LOC because of the high output that the BMW has. the reason we use Audiocontrol LC6 and LC8 is to give customers the capability to control the subwoofer volume. You can also use the new part from Peripheral Electronics PCH8. I have Upgraded many Pre Idrive 7 series, 5 series and X5 without the help of a Cleansweep.

    Wurmy77 -

    I have a 2001 740 with DSP and I am using a LC8 after the DSP amp. Its ok at best. How do I get a 4 channel flat output?

    Your help is appreciated. Trying to get a clean signal from this car has been never ending headache for me.

  10. #10
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    You need to get the twisted pairs coming from the tuner pack before the DSP AMP there is only a front outputs because the DSP Amp controls the fader.
    You will need to disconnect the car battery after you remove the dsp amp and the the radio reset so you will have volume control. the twisted pairs should be Left :yellow/red+ and Brown/orange- and then right side is Blue/Red+ and brown/orange-. Get them as close to the tuner pack as possible. it is located behind the dsp amp. The easiest way to identify it is it has the ant. plug on it as well as a plug that looks like the back of a BMW Business CD radio.

    Contact me if you have any other questions
    Sales@sraudioworks.com
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  11. #11
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    Cleansweep is amazing, so is any Audiocontrol with high level inputs. Can't go wrong either way.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wurmy77 View Post
    You need to get the twisted pairs coming from the tuner pack before the DSP AMP there is only a front outputs because the DSP Amp controls the fader.
    You will need to disconnect the car battery after you remove the dsp amp and the the radio reset so you will have volume control. the twisted pairs should be Left :yellow/red+ and Brown/orange- and then right side is Blue/Red+ and brown/orange-. Get them as close to the tuner pack as possible. it is located behind the dsp amp. The easiest way to identify it is it has the ant. plug on it as well as a plug that looks like the back of a BMW Business CD radio.

    Contact me if you have any other questions
    Sales@sraudioworks.com
    SR AUDIO
    Shaun
    908-437-0222


    Thanks for the response. So these 2 twisted pairs are standard full range front signals? Can I simply cut them and re-route them into my amps? I dont care about fading at all (I only have speakers up front plus subs). Will I loose any functionality such as nav voice, or does the DSP amp simply do what is suggests - add DSP and split the signal up for the various speakers? How do I reset the radio? Is this worth the effort? Have you had experience using the LC8/6 after DSP amp?

    Sorry for all of the questions. Again, your help is appreciated.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 97'scort View Post
    Cleansweep is amazing, so is any Audiocontrol with high level inputs. Can't go wrong either way.

    My LC8 works ok, but its so hard to get a flat signal, plus noise is a serious issue with it. I have even tried adding a AC eq, which helped somewhat, but added even more noise. Would I have to worry about the external volume control with the Cleansweep, or could I just set it and use the factory controls with good results?

  14. #14
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    Take the twisted pairs coming from the Headunit and run them into the LC8 instead of the outputs from the DSP Amp.we use the Periheral PCH8 which is the same concept that way you get all the outputs you need and also get a sub level control

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeineAuto View Post
    Has anyone tried this as a means to keep stock head unit but allow for clean expansion of power and drivers? Especially curious if you tried in a e39

    htp://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep.php?prod_id=369
    I've done exactly what you are looking to do, and 1) you don't need a cleansweep, 2) you don't need an 8 channel LOC. You need 4 at most and you need to pair it with a good amplifier (or 2).

    Here is a link to the writeup.

    Note that even though only 2 of the outputs from the radio are stuffed from the factory you can stuff all 4 with a simple aftermarket kit.

    I'll repeat it again: There is no need for a Cleansweep or an LC8 unless you have money to burn. Choose your amp carefully (read the writeup) and you can simply wire RCA's onto the tuner outputs and run them straight to your amp.

    OHood - I would suggest you check out the writeup as well - I'll be surprised if you don't have the same tuner and couldn't do the same thing.

    d-

  16. #16
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    Also - grab a wiring diagram for the plug on the back of the factory HU, and you will notice that 4 speaker wires are missing from the DSP setup - the 4 other speaker wires can be added to this via sourcing the correct pins from BMW, and inserting into the plug, then running those 4 wires back to your devices in the trunk. Voila - you now have 4 channel output from your HU

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wurmy77 View Post
    Take the twisted pairs coming from the Headunit and run them into the LC8 instead of the outputs from the DSP Amp.we use the Periheral PCH8 which is the same concept that way you get all the outputs you need and also get a sub level control

    Ok, I took apart all of the panels today and found the 4 wires - Left :yellow/red+ and Brown/orange- and then right side is Blue/Red+ and brown/orange-.

    What do I do now? Can I just cut these wires and run them into my LC8? Do I need to completely remove the DSP amp? What about all of the other wires going into the DSP amp, what are those for? Do i just disconnect that harness from the DSP amp, splice into the 4 important wires, and leave the rest of the harness alone?

    Also, you mentioned resetting my radio. What does that mean? Do I do this by disconnecting the battery?

    Is there anything else that I will need to do?

    Thanks

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohood View Post
    Ok, I took apart all of the panels today and found the 4 wires - Left :yellow/red+ and Brown/orange- and then right side is Blue/Red+ and brown/orange-.

    What do I do now? Can I just cut these wires and run them into my LC8? Do I need to completely remove the DSP amp? What about all of the other wires going into the DSP amp, what are those for? Do i just disconnect that harness from the DSP amp, splice into the 4 important wires, and leave the rest of the harness alone?

    Also, you mentioned resetting my radio. What does that mean? Do I do this by disconnecting the battery?

    Is there anything else that I will need to do?

    Thanks
    Without being offensive, you need so much information that it isn't worth writing it all here, mainly because I already wrote it all HERE

    That link will answer every question you asked as well as a few that you didn't (but need to know).

    If reading that link leaves you with more questions then feel free to PM me and I'll happily answer them.

    d-

  19. #19
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    I just jumped on this thread after doing some research on this subject. I have modified my non-DSP audio by replacing the factory amp with a JL Audio 300/2 to drive a set of MB Quart components up front and a JL 500/1 to drive a sub in the trunk. I like the sound when the volume is turned up, but it is bland at low levels. I found a post by an audio engineer that states that the head unit in fact changes eq levels for different frequencies based on the volume setting. He makes a case for the Cleansweep unit from JL. http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/c...k-stereos.html

    Can anyone confirm this?

  20. #20
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    alternator ground for 740i 1999

    anyone know how to put a larger wire ground on this to the frame? I can't find the ground if any...

    Work in progress...

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbad7series View Post
    anyone know how to put a larger wire ground on this to the frame? I can't find the ground if any...
    I don't understand your question - what exactly are you looking for?

    d-

  22. #22
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    Are the 4 analog outputs coming from the factory HU standard on non-DSP cars? This is what I have and can't quite figure out if I need to order the Metra harness (part 70-8590). I am going to use the JL Cleansweep which I am going to mate with a Blaupunkt 4-channel amp. The JL requires "close to full-range" (20-20kHz) line inputs so would I be able to get this from the HU or do I need to sum the output from the factory amp to full-range?

    Also, and ideas on where I can get a harness to connect with the pins I'm going to need so i don't need to splice the wires?

  23. #23
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    there is no need for a cleansweep w/ a non-dsp car.

    simply tap the full range signal before the amp in the trunk.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Z View Post
    there is no need for a cleansweep w/ a non-dsp car.

    simply tap the full range signal before the amp in the trunk.
    Explain that to me why it's not needed with a non-dsp car. The JL unit is a digital sound processor (DSP) correct? So why would a DSP equipped car need it where as a non-DSP car wouldn't? Constructively I understand that it would create a flat base to work off of with a DSP equipped car so help me out here. Either way, I already have had the unit off my last car so its win-win either way... no money lost if its obsolete.

  25. #25
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    Cleansweeps are used to recombine multiple frequency signals into a single full range signal.

    In a DSP vehicle, there is no volume controlled full range signal to tap, so one must use the 12 output channels, recombined through a Cleansweep, before amplification.

    In a non-DSP vehicle there IS a volume controlled full range signal, and thus no need for a Cleansweep.

    The only use for a Cleansweep in a non-DSP vehicle is to provide line level outputs if your amplifier cannot handle the inputs from the radio unit.

    Doug
    Last edited by DouglasABaker; 05-21-2008 at 05:59 PM.

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