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Thread: DIY: window drop down/ door micro switch fix

  1. #1
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    DIY: window drop down/ door micro switch fix

    Ok there seems to be some questions as to where the micro switch is on the coupes/verts for '95 & newer vehicles.

    1st off, the micro switch is what activates the interior entry lights & also the window drop down feature (also known as the window goes down a bit when you open the door & up when you close it).

    The micro switch is part of the door striker which is on the body side. Here's the pic w/ explanations:



    The door latch is what deactivates the micro switch:

    So over time the micro switch is worn down from repeated door closing, the micro switch doesn't get pushed in anymore which won't activate the window drop down feature along w/ turn off the interior lights automatically. You should 1st check it by opening the door & push it in by hand. If you push it in & the window drops down, then that means the switch is worn out.

    As a quick fix, you can wrap electrical tape around the micro switch to add material thickness again around the switch so the latch can make contact to it.

    Best bet is to change it out.

    The electrical connection is in the quarter panel area (2 small black wires & the black connector is pretty small...about 1/2" wide & 1/8 thick). Just take the speaker panel off & you should be able to fish around for it.

    BUT BEFORE YOU CHANGE THE STRIKER, I RECOMMEND THAT YOU MARK THE STRIKER POSITION ON THE BODY W/ A PEN SO YOU CAN REALIGN THE NEW STRIKER A LOT EASIER!!!

    Remove the 2 bolts on the striker. It's not that hard to pull the old striker wiring out. But it's a PITA to reroute the new electrical wires since there's not much room to put your hand inside the quarter panel area to pull the wiring back in. Just be patient & you'll be alright.

    After reinstalling the striker make sure to close the door to see if the door alignment is still good or you need to make adjustments slightly due to the new striker not being exactly the same as the old one (manufacturing tolerances).

    That should be it unless you have other issues.

    I believe the '94 & older vehicles have the micro switch on the door latch itself. Here's the website to help w/ that:

    http://home.earthlink.net/~frankie66/cars/diy/E36_doormicroswitch.html

    Good luck!!!


    ****ALTERNATIVE QUICK FIX****

    OK a quick update for a really quick fix...almost a permanent fix!!! I was lazy to take off my quarter trim panel & fish the wiring through etc. w/ a new striker so I came up w/ this new fix. Since the switch itself is plastic, I thought I can "weld" material to it since I just fixed some interior trim panel on my Honda that way. I took a soldering iron & some clear hard packaging plastic (the type that's heat sealed on the edge on most things you buy at the stores these days where you need a pair of scissors to cut it away to get to your item). Then just start melting the clear plastic along w/ the micro switch so both material are melted together. You're just trying to build up material on the micro switch itself so it doesn't have to be that nice & pretty. Make sure you don't add to much width wise where the switch can't be pushed in/out smoothly anymore. That's it. It's almost a permanent fix. It's been a few months since I've done this & no problems so far...
    PM me if you have any questions...
    Last edited by red97tj; 08-19-2011 at 11:20 AM.

    95 alpine white 318iC - my 1st bimmer!!! now even better w/ dasc, tokico illuminas, h&r sport springs, new wheels, new top & hid...just a few of the sunk costs in this money pit!!!
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  2. #2
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    Excellent!

    Thank you!
    - Chris




  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Great job. This is what is going on with my car, the electrical tape is still holding....One of these days I will put in my new parts sitting on the shelf.

  5. #5
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    old thread bump for question.

    I understand having to replace the microswitch inside the door itself, but doesn't the door jamb latch have the switch that does the same thing? I put electrical tape on there a while ago and it fixed it temporarily until the whole switch just wore out. Now I'm not sure if I need to replace the door jamb latch w/ switch or the microswitch inside the door?

    it's a 1996 328is btw.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spieluhr View Post
    old thread bump for question.

    I understand having to replace the microswitch inside the door itself, but doesn't the door jamb latch have the switch that does the same thing? I put electrical tape on there a while ago and it fixed it temporarily until the whole switch just wore out. Now I'm not sure if I need to replace the door jamb latch w/ switch or the microswitch inside the door?

    it's a 1996 328is btw.
    your switch is the door striker (on the body not the door). i believe the switch is part of the whole striker assembly. you'll have to buy the striker assy. my suggestion is to mark the striker before to take it off so when you put a new one on at least you have a good starting point.
    or you can just swap out the passenger side striker...it's the same as the driver side.
    good luck.

    95 alpine white 318iC - my 1st bimmer!!! now even better w/ dasc, tokico illuminas, h&r sport springs, new wheels, new top & hid...just a few of the sunk costs in this money pit!!!
    88 civic w/ zc swap
    97 lifted tj
    and a few more project cars!!!

  7. #7
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    ok, so I need this part:


  8. #8
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    yeah that's the striker...

    95 alpine white 318iC - my 1st bimmer!!! now even better w/ dasc, tokico illuminas, h&r sport springs, new wheels, new top & hid...just a few of the sunk costs in this money pit!!!
    88 civic w/ zc swap
    97 lifted tj
    and a few more project cars!!!

  9. #9
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    what about cars older then '95??? how can i fix this problem?


  10. #10
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    yea this is the exact problem im having with mine but its a 94 i just replaced my driver outside door handle and i was told the microswitch was on the door handle its self??? but now my windows almost shatter on the top frame wen i shut my doors unless they are down a crack and i put my windows up with the double locking trick its a major pain in the ass can somebody help me out with this...

  11. #11
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    Yes on older models the switch is inside the catch (the part in the door that hits the striker)..
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  12. #12
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    building up the worn part using JB Weld works well too

  13. #13
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    I was changing my striker and the metal backing plate that the striker screws into fell back into the body. Any ideas of how to get get this out? I was thinking maybe a coat hanger? if I take off the rear interior door panel will that give me access to behind the sheetmetal?
    Mods: Built s52,bored to 87.00mm,cp 8.5.1 High Comp Pistons Arrow h-beam billet rods,arp head studs,mls head gasket,combustion area polished, Complete Ferrea valve trainw/stainless 1mm oversize valves, titanium retainers, HD springs, hardened keepers Shrick cams. RMS Stage II Supercharger/Intercooler w/8 Rib pullys. RMS High Flow Fuel Pump, Porsche 803 MAF, Clutchmasters FX300. UUC v3 ssk,Koni sport Suspension, 17x8 BBS RC's. Wilwood Superlight 4 whl BBK. GC bump stops, Welded subrfame & sway bar reinforcements, strut tower reinforcement plates, Rogue RSM's, Every powerflex bushing, UUC red's with enforcers, Eibach swaybars, Mayle c/a's w full metal ball joints, Zionsville Competition Radiator kit, Samco hoses, RMS Headers with 2.5in midpipe,Supersprint Catback Exhaust, ZKW w/ FX-R 35W 6000K, Alpine HU, hardwired V1. Illuminated shift knob. HK 6x9's. Motion Underpanel. Stack Gauges.

  14. #14
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    Yes it will but it is a lot of work so be advised you will need to put your top down with the boot open to do this and the top hanging open and not stowed.
    If you have not taken the rear side panel loose I did a psuedo DIY on that you might want to review. You will be sticking your hand down into the bowels of the car so expect some wires and things in the way.
    I would try if you were flexible to just take the small center panel off (just push that small panel inside the big panel forward toward the front of the car) and see if you can get your hand down and forward to get the mounting plate...

  15. #15
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    I got done replacing my driver side door striker because of the same issues of the window not going up, when I closed the door. After replacing the door striker, my window goes right back up like it use to.

    I only spent $10 on the part at the local junk yard here in Austin, TX because I don't have the money to splurge on a new part that costs $59 here. I used the passenger door striker on one the cars that I found, since both passenger and driver door strikers are the same.

    Unscrewing the bolts from the striker was the easy part, but like Red97tj said pull the striker out slowly or else you'll lose the wire connector inside the car and that's another hassel.

    The only problem I had was trying to put back the door striker.

    Tip: I would find a skinny metal wire or something that you can bend at the end to hook the metal piece because the metal piece slides back every time you try to screw the door striker on. Getting the skinny metal piece to hook the metal piece and have someone to help you saves a lot of trouble and aggrivation.

    Hope this helps somone

  16. #16
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    Great stuff ... huge help

    I just bought a 323 convertible and the drop down wasn't working on the windows, either were the interior lights.The Interior lights only went on when removing the key. Pushed the striker switches nothing. Marked them then took them off. Both were unplugged. Ran the wires plugged them both in and whala... everything works. This thread saved me so much time and aggravation. Thanks to all.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by charscars View Post
    I just bought a 323 convertible and the drop down wasn't working on the windows, either were the interior lights.The Interior lights only went on when removing the key. Pushed the striker switches nothing. Marked them then took them off. Both were unplugged. Ran the wires plugged them both in and whala... everything works. This thread saved me so much time and aggravation. Thanks to all.
    thats why we have this forum...great for info.

    95 alpine white 318iC - my 1st bimmer!!! now even better w/ dasc, tokico illuminas, h&r sport springs, new wheels, new top & hid...just a few of the sunk costs in this money pit!!!
    88 civic w/ zc swap
    97 lifted tj
    and a few more project cars!!!

  18. #18
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    I have a 11/94 325iC, microswitch in the door latch itself. The door handle broke and my microswitch was acting up so I'm fixing it all now. Turns out my switch seems to be fine, the housing the switch is in sticks. I just got the new one in, so if anyone needs just the microswitch lmk and I'd be happy to drop it in an envelope. I'll even cover the 40 cents stamp

    This board is great, saved me tons.
    1994 325iC for 19 years, upgraded to 2011 335i Turbo with Sport package

  19. #19
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    I have a 94' and the interior lights and window drop doesn't work. Have to lower them before you get out or it looks like the window will shatter from hitting the frame, and the raise them manually when in to seal them right.

    So I guess I need this door handle switch. Do I need one for the driver and one for the passenger side as well? What is the part number for these? What a pain in the @ss this going to be but thanks for all the great info!
    1994 325ic - 5spd - Dinan Stage II - CF Intake - Exhaust - Throttle Body - Software - Suspension - M Bumper and Door Trim - Smoked Lights


  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by subspd View Post
    I have a 94' and the interior lights and window drop doesn't work. Have to lower them before you get out or it looks like the window will shatter from hitting the frame, and the raise them manually when in to seal them right.

    So I guess I need this door handle switch. Do I need one for the driver and one for the passenger side as well? What is the part number for these? What a pain in the @ss this going to be but thanks for all the great info!
    does it not work for both sides or 1 side works but not the other?
    sorry i can't help w/ the part number but you should be able to search on realoem.com to get the part number.
    good luck

    95 alpine white 318iC - my 1st bimmer!!! now even better w/ dasc, tokico illuminas, h&r sport springs, new wheels, new top & hid...just a few of the sunk costs in this money pit!!!
    88 civic w/ zc swap
    97 lifted tj
    and a few more project cars!!!

  21. #21
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    Neither side works... very frustrating...
    1994 325ic - 5spd - Dinan Stage II - CF Intake - Exhaust - Throttle Body - Software - Suspension - M Bumper and Door Trim - Smoked Lights


  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by subspd View Post
    Neither side works... very frustrating...
    did it stop working all of the sudden on both sides? and does both sides not turn the interior lights off?
    and yes it's frustration especially when it's raining out!!! that's why i fixed mine & wanted to share the info so no 1 gets rained on more than necessary.

    95 alpine white 318iC - my 1st bimmer!!! now even better w/ dasc, tokico illuminas, h&r sport springs, new wheels, new top & hid...just a few of the sunk costs in this money pit!!!
    88 civic w/ zc swap
    97 lifted tj
    and a few more project cars!!!

  23. #23
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    Both sides quit I think at te same time... Can't remember and yes the lights never work.
    1994 325ic - 5spd - Dinan Stage II - CF Intake - Exhaust - Throttle Body - Software - Suspension - M Bumper and Door Trim - Smoked Lights


  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by subspd View Post
    Both sides quit I think at te same time... Can't remember and yes the lights never work.
    reason i asked if both quit at the same time is that there's a very slim chance both of the microswitch would die at the same time. i would lean towards the controller (zke) than the switches. also did your car battery died around that time? if it did then you'll have to reteach the windows control where the "up" position is by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, then cycle the windows down & up. and hold the buttons down for about 10secs when the windows are fully up. that'll tell the computer that's the up position.
    good luck

    95 alpine white 318iC - my 1st bimmer!!! now even better w/ dasc, tokico illuminas, h&r sport springs, new wheels, new top & hid...just a few of the sunk costs in this money pit!!!
    88 civic w/ zc swap
    97 lifted tj
    and a few more project cars!!!

  25. #25
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    driver side micro swich problems

    I have a 98 M3 convertible and my driver side window doesn't slide down to clear the weather striping. I was under the impression that was a problem with the micro switch, but is that a door latch issue? i have a new micro switch and have been working all day to figure this out, anybody got any advice or delt with this problem before?

    Thanks guys,
    Harrison

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