So I went over to FuriousM3's house to sell him my stock airbox, well while taking out his old intake, he was explaining to me that his car was not running and was throwing a CEL and the codes were related to O2 sensor banks. Well I was thinking something was wrong with the HFM so I pull off his intake and voila! I found the issue. His ITG foam filter commited suicide and sent the organs of his filter into his HFM. I cleaned it out, cut the cage out of the filter and took out its internals and put it back. I informed him to get a new filter, that medium was there for a reason. But another BFC member helped and money saved!
Last edited by Jrdeamicis; 05-18-2007 at 01:06 PM.
Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite
I just bought an intake with the ITG filter. Does anyone know how to prevent this from happening??
3.5" HFM | Stromung | TMS | Conforti | Bilstein | Eibach Pro-Kit |
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why not just use stock airbox? i believe it's been proven there are no gains to be had this way on these cars.
Stock box + ITG filter = same as cone IMO
-Joe
Don't leave the filter soaking in water when you're cleaning it (they note that explicitly in the cleaning instructions) and don't over oil it. I've had mine for ~6 years and 50K miles, it's as good as new.
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The Intake with a 3.5" HFM and software gives great gains over the stock intake system. You can't get the larger HFM and chip setup with the stock airbox unless you buy a euro stock airbox. So there are gains to be had. Plus, it sounds better too
3.5" HFM | Stromung | TMS | Conforti | Bilstein | Eibach Pro-Kit |
I bought the car with the 3" JC intake but had no idea that the filter was breaking apart. The intake sounds awesome, but I'm not sure if the gains, if any, are worth it. The question now is: go back to stock or get a new filter?
btw, Jrdeamicis, thanks again!
I think it depends on your plan for the car and performance.
Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite
Mine (2 of them) crapped-out at age 3. I was cleaning one of them and it literally disintegrated in my hands. I then reached for the other one and it too had expired.
I replaced it w/ an Amsoil filter #3560. No oiling, great filtration and great flow.
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx
Last edited by Mad Dog 20/20; 05-18-2007 at 03:45 PM.
Garrett
never would have happened with a stock airbox....if it aint broke dont fix it! aftermarket CAI = worthless!
Where do you guys get your info?
Aftermarket intakes have been dyno-proven time and time again for the last 10+ years. This is old news.
The airbox type has nothing to do with the ITG filter degradation issue. The filter's foam has a short life span, regardless of the box you put it in.
Garrett
lol. XD
I do not use ITG, but I do have a CAI.
I've got my 4 reasons to get rid of stock box:
stock airbox takes room up.
stock weighs more.
small gains are to be made.
cai allows usage of 3.5hfm.
X-brace, ACS fr strut brace, RSMs/Z3, RTABs, TMS sways, eibach springs, MM underpanel, UUC lt fly, 3.5 Samco elbow & MAF, JConforti chip, AA pipe, Al coolant bits, SS brake & clutch lines, LTW seats & door cards, GT intl CF trim, no center console, UUC EVO3, M5 lit knob
Jim C chip is tuned for 3.5hfm. ----> more hp gains.
Certain CAI's FTW + Euro Airbox FTW.
Like another said. I think "further upgradeability" is key.
I am unaware of a fully tuned NA or FI M3 running stock usa airboxx.
X-brace, ACS fr strut brace, RSMs/Z3, RTABs, TMS sways, eibach springs, MM underpanel, UUC lt fly, 3.5 Samco elbow & MAF, JConforti chip, AA pipe, Al coolant bits, SS brake & clutch lines, LTW seats & door cards, GT intl CF trim, no center console, UUC EVO3, M5 lit knob
Actually, the ITG 3 stage foam filters are very good, better than the K&N filters which let in some of the smaller particles that the foam does not, but like most things, they are a tradeoff and if you want the best filtration, the stock filters are the ones to use in the stock air box.
The ITG filter in the Conforti CAI is probably the best CAI filter commonly available, but it requires care & attention just like any other part of the car.
It does not last forever, but it should last for several years if you clean it properly, oil it properly, and handle it well, but at the first signs of degradation, it should be replaced immediately.
1999 Estoril Blue ///M3 with common mods to the car, and driver training mods to the driver. It's a safe, intelligent, and fun combination. Member of our local BMW Club Driver Training Team.
I can tell you first hand that the gains are well worth it. 6 months ago I converted my s52 to the m50 manifold. Minimal gains from what I thought was to be an outstanding mod. I later installed the afe cai and it really woke up the car. I don't care what you guys say... the stock airbox can't even compare with any aftermarket intake. Not only do I feel (which is the most important part) and hear the gains, they have been proven
Euorsport Cam Kit- Schrick Camshafts, M50 Manifold, 24# injectors, 3.5" Euro Intake System, Calibrated 3.5" HFM, Fan Delete, Power Pulleys
TMS Shorty Headers
Koni C/O's, H&R Sways, X Brace, Toe Shims, LTW's
UUC Sloted Rotors, SS Lines, SSK, TMEs, SS Clutch Line
ZKW's with 5k HID, 6k DDE Halos, Clears all around
BMW CD43 w/ Focal fronts/HK rears and JL W3
some guys did some dyno run testing locally and the stock airbox (debaffled i believe) with a stock paper filter was the best of the bunch over CAI's with both K&N style and foam style filters. i have no proof, but i was told that was the results.
which one is this?(debaffled i believe)
Euorsport Cam Kit- Schrick Camshafts, M50 Manifold, 24# injectors, 3.5" Euro Intake System, Calibrated 3.5" HFM, Fan Delete, Power Pulleys
TMS Shorty Headers
Koni C/O's, H&R Sways, X Brace, Toe Shims, LTW's
UUC Sloted Rotors, SS Lines, SSK, TMEs, SS Clutch Line
ZKW's with 5k HID, 6k DDE Halos, Clears all around
BMW CD43 w/ Focal fronts/HK rears and JL W3
Odd how this post comes up years after similar posts showed up on the Japanese import side...
FWIW the issue was Greddy and HKS foam filters from back in the 90's. They would disintegrate over time with heat, age, etc. Plus I would venture that the vaccuum a high performance motor would generate is pretty significant.
Like a previous poster mentioned, there are SOME trade-offs to a higher flowing "performance" filter:
1. More Flow = More Contaminants
Moving air is about making the path for air either bigger or more easier and or efficient to flow through. Most performance filters have a larger surface area for air to enter. And most filters are more porous that stock filters to lower the resistance of air to pass through them. The compromise of more flow is more contaminants. Don't believe it? Run the stock filter for 6 months, remove your HFM and run a white glove over the mesh screen, fine dust at worst. The next 6 months, run an open element like the K&N/ITG, remove the HFM...what's on that white glove? I will concede how bad contaminants are is relative, after all, if the particle is small enough, it'll burn up in the combustion mix anyway. The only real downside his how much dusting the HFM sensor can take before it fails.
2. More Performance = More Maintenance
Performance filters have a limited lifespan like any other filter. Although the K&N and other units have long life warrantees, the fact remains (law of thermodynamics) that things will degrade over time. Clean all you want, take care of it, but eventually - its gonna need to be replaced.
Although K&N claims that the dirtier the filter is, the better is filters...this is partially true. More dirt/dust on the filter element will filter better BUT at a sacrifice of flow. Don't believe? Take a turbo car with a clean K&N unit and dyno it. The re-dyno the same car with that same filter with maybe a months worth of usage. The difference is pretty enlightening.
(Did this with my Supercharged Miata about a decade back).
In the K&N's case, that filter needs to be pretty clean to make the flow numbers that in turn make the HP numbers you want. If you want to keep power up, you got to clean the filter.
Given most of this stuff was developed for race cars, a lot of the compromises don't matter as the performance products once spent, are well, thrown away (speaking generally of course).
If I remember right, a similar thing happened with a Supra owner some years ago with his Greddy Airnix...the filter dried out and fell apart. Problem was, it gunked up his motor pretty bad with melted foam.
Personally - after having a Dinan K&N unit on my old 1996 M3 (which coated my HFM screen with a lot of oily dirt), for this iteration of performance on my 1995 M3 - I went with the Euro Airbox. Sure it maybe gives up 3-4 HP over a performance element, but flows good and clean and is trouble free.
But as far a performance... well here are some numbers from Active Autoworks, from their website. Dyno numbers...
Stock Airbox with Baffles Removed
Base 198.9HP @ 6250RPM, Test 203.1 HP @ 6250RPM - Change +4.2 HP
With Active Autowork K&N Filter
Max Power Base 198.9HP @ 6250 RPM, Test 204.4HP @ 6250 RPM - Change +5.5HP
Is the open filter element better than stock? YES. Worth 1.5 to 2 HP more?
You decide.
Anyway, just my 2-cents.
Last edited by LuxoM3; 05-18-2007 at 06:13 PM.
BMW CCA Member 186373 - Golden Gate Chapter
Former (e)Bombe Magazine Editor, "The Toy Box" product review writer | Current member of Team Jesus
Gone: 1995 E36 M3 Arctik Silber, 1996 E36 M3 Cosmos, 1991 E30 318is Cosmos
People have been complaining/posting about ITG filter degradation for a few years now . . . its nothing new.
All performance filters do not allow more flow by simply having bigger pores through which more air (and dirt) can pass.
Filter media efficiency is one key to performance. When brand new, performance among various filter media is pretty much the same. When dirty, certain types of media drop-off rapidly in terms of flow. They clog-up pretty quickly. A good high-performance filter is designed to provide great flow even when fairly dirty.
Another consideration is the actual surface area of the filter media. A big fat pleated cone filter has a whole helluva lot more surface area than the OE paper panel or even the OE-sized K&N drop-in. This is a huge advantage in terms of flow and efficiency. Nano-fiber technology takes this concept to a whole nother level.
So a properly-designed CAI w/ a big cone usually has a few advantages:
1. MUCH more surface area.
2. More efficient media.
3. More streamlined intake path w/ no sharp angles, bafffles, bellows, etc.
4. A larger intake path (3.5" set-up)
5. Usually more cool airflow to the filter (air comes at the filter from the kidney's, around the headlight and/or from behind the bumper).
Most folks see a 7-12 whp gain depending on the type of intake and other mods.
A debaffled OE box w/ K&N drop-in usually nets 2-4whp.
Garrett
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