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Thread: DIY: Complete ASC delete with no ABS light/fault!

  1. #1
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    DIY: Complete ASC delete with no ABS light/fault!

    So everyone knows how to remove the ASC TB and all but you still have the acutator next to the master cylinder. If you unplug it you get an ABS fault which kills your ABS so heres how to make it go away!!!!!!! What im basically doing is tricking the ABS system into thinking the ASC system is still in place. I measured the resistance across the 2 poles of the ASC acuator to 10 ohms. so you replace the acutaor with a 10 ohm resistor and bam!
    Sorry for the crappy pics. cameras kicking the bucket.

    Parts needed: 1 10ohm 1 watt resistor (bought mine at radioshack)

    Start like this:

    haha....
    -now un plug that biach:


    -then grab one of these (or i suppose you should buy one before you begin haha)

    -Cut the 2 wires for the plug for the ASC acutator and do this:

    -Tape up that biach, stuff it somewhere and burn this thing

    ~!
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  2. #2
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    Dude, you could bank on making a kit. HIDE THIS THREAD QUICKLY.

    Congrats. You should get banana plugs that fill the connector and then you can solder in the resistor in line with the plugs and not destroy the plug.
    Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite

  3. #3
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    I considered that but considering it cost all of 1.25 i passed. And i figured ide pass on the knowledge because ive learned 3242342343 other things about my car and how to mess/mod/screw with it because of this forum.

    I also thought of doing that but didnt want it coming loose.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iJunkie View Post
    I considered that but considering it cost all of 1.25 i passed. And i figured ide pass on the knowledge because ive learned 3242342343 other things about my car and how to mess/mod/screw with it because of this forum.

    I also thought of doing that but didnt want it coming loose.
    Heatshrink + zip ties + resistor + solder = never coming loose.

    Butt splices are well and dandy, but its worth it to make it bulletproof.

    You should make a project with the TB.
    Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite

  5. #5
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    Quick question though, my car had the ASC removed a looooong time ago and I've never seen the ABS light come on. After I took it back from the shop after the accident the ABS light was on. Although it wasn't on right after it was hit and on it's way to the shop. So what gives? Should I do this mod or is it just some crap that got into the ABS sensors in the wheels? Should I take 'em out and clean with the brake cleaner or whatknot? Any input appreciated, thanks.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seruy View Post
    Quick question though, my car had the ASC removed a looooong time ago and I've never seen the ABS light come on. After I took it back from the shop after the accident the ABS light was on. Although it wasn't on right after it was hit and on it's way to the shop. So what gives? Should I do this mod or is it just some crap that got into the ABS sensors in the wheels? Should I take 'em out and clean with the brake cleaner or whatknot? Any input appreciated, thanks.
    There you go.

    Doesnt the ASC light have a seperate light from the ABS?
    Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite

  7. #7
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    ABS is completely different from the ASC.

    ABS is airbag system, ASC is traction control.
    e46 m3, some 740 sport shorts, F30h, LR3 and a 540it

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aradaiel View Post
    ABS is airbag system, ASC is traction control.
    ABS is the Anti-lock Braking System, SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) is the air bag system.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tronix View Post
    ABS is the Anti-lock Braking System, SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) is the air bag system.
    +1 haha. ABS and ASC in our cars are nearly interconnected.
    And yes a ABS light would be on for many different reasons, ide check the wheel speed sensors to begin with.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  10. #10
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    Noob question:
    Whats the difficulty in simply pressing the ASC switch when you'd prefer to have it off? Im sure there is something Im missing

  11. #11
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    The ASC system is a secondary throttlebody in the intake tract that just shuts (killing all power) when you spin the wheels. Its a terrible traction system who isnt a complete terrible driver so i dont like it. Its a bottle neck in my 3.5" intake system and i hated it so out it went.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  12. #12
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    looks good. I wonder what the equivalent trick is for an E36 M3. ASC is different in the M3 that what I am seeing in your photo.
    Johno
    -- 2003 e46 M3
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    -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johno View Post
    looks good. I wonder what the equivalent trick is for an E36 M3. ASC is different in the M3 that what I am seeing in your photo.
    He has already pulled out the ASC throttle body and replaced it and the boot with the Samco boot. The actuator ussually has to stay in the car or you'll get the light...or just replace it with a resistor

  14. #14
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    The actuator ussually has to stay in the car or you'll get the light...or just replace it with a resistor
    My ASC system throttle body is out of the car. All that is left is the asc throttle cable and the plug for the throttle posistion sensor.

    If all I need to do is wire a resister across the plug where the sensor used to attach, I would like to know the resister value ...and whether this resistor across the wires will lead to any problems.

    Basically I need to fool the car into thinking the parts are still there. If by chance the ASC light can come on when there is wheel spin that would be nice... But not required.
    Johno
    -- 2003 e46 M3
    -- 2018 e90 M5
    -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4


  15. #15
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    I think you might be better off just taking the actuator out and living with the light. That way, the ABS/ASC brain knows that the system is not working and won't try to operate it while you are driving.

    See, the second throttle body is just one part of the system. It also applies the rear brakes and also can retard ignition (and perhaps cut off injectors). Just read the description of the system in the E36 Bentley.

    If you try to fool it into thinking the throttle plate is there, maybe it will still try to apply your rear breaks to stop wheel spin. Or maybe it will figure out that the throttle position sensor for the ASC throttle isn't there when it tries to close it and you'll get a fault light after that...

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johno View Post
    My ASC system throttle body is out of the car. All that is left is the asc throttle cable and the plug for the throttle posistion sensor.

    If all I need to do is wire a resister across the plug where the sensor used to attach, I would like to know the resister value ...and whether this resistor across the wires will lead to any problems.

    Basically I need to fool the car into thinking the parts are still there. If by chance the ASC light can come on when there is wheel spin that would be nice... But not required.
    +1 on what TLK said. This will mess things up. It will apply the brakes and etc but not slow the airflow so you might acutally lean out. If youve removed the ASC TB you might as well get rid of the actuator too. You cant have half the ASC system or shit wont work very well.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  17. #17
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    Hmm, maybe I'll remove the rest of that useless system


    (hehe sorry, don't mean to troll )

    Quote Originally Posted by 328iJunkie View Post
    +1 on what TLK said. This will mess things up. It will apply the brakes and etc but not slow the airflow so you might acutally lean out. If youve removed the ASC TB you might as well get rid of the actuator too. You cant have half the ASC system or shit wont work very well.
    Nothing will be leaned out. The ASC TB has its own throttle position sensor. Seriously, to the people who consider removing this safety hazard out of the car - you won't miss it at all.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by epj3 View Post
    Hmm, maybe I'll remove the rest of that useless system


    (hehe sorry, don't mean to troll )



    Nothing will be leaned out. The ASC TB has its own throttle position sensor. Seriously, to the people who consider removing this safety hazard out of the car - you won't miss it at all.
    No he was asking if he could put a resitor in the TPS for the ASC TB to make it think its still there.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by liilpa09 View Post
    hmmm wonder if this would work with the windshield washer fluid low signal i get on my OBC since i took out my windshield washer fluid reservoir...
    yes, but you need to measure the resistance of the sensor with the resevoir full to put the correct one in there.
    Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jrdeamicis View Post
    yes, but you need to measure the resistance of the sensor with the resevoir full to put the correct one in there.
    i don't have the reservoir anymore...any other way of doing this? cant i just measure it when the car is on since it still is trying to read the reservoir sensor (which is no longer there?)

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by liilpa09 View Post
    i don't have the reservoir anymore...any other way of doing this? cant i just measure it when the car is on since it still is trying to read the reservoir sensor (which is no longer there?)
    I can get my DVM out and find out for you what it is.
    Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite

  22. #22
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    The windsheild washer level is just a open/closed switch. Bridge the two wires and itll never come up again.

    edit, same with the coolant level sensor.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iJunkie View Post
    The windsheild washer level is just a open/closed switch. Bridge the two wires and itll never come up again.

    edit, same with the coolant level sensor.
    what do you mean by bridge? like stick a metal wire from the one hole of the plug to the other hole in the end of the plug?

  24. #24
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    Basically,
    I just cut the plug off and connected the two wires.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iJunkie View Post
    Basically,
    I just cut the plug off and connected the two wires.
    Is there a cleaner way of doing this? It's unfortunate that you still have wires running in the engine bay...

    Is there a way to pull the wires out of where they begin so that there are no lose wires laying anywhere?
    Click signature for pictures:

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