Touring subframe bushings and finding a DIY solution

[dbruce]

Been spending some time on finding a DIY solution to the monster bushings in the rear of the iT's. It's not an easy task since the UK people have the alternative of using indy's to do the work at a "reasonable" price. Over here, you are looking at a 2K repair bill for 200 in parts....insane. I've written up the following....who wants to try it?

I found the following DIY bushing remover from another car board. The size would have to be increased to remove the monsters installed in the iT's......but I see no reason it wouldn't work. The top "cap" should probably be replaced with a flar washer or something to fix the clearance issues....assuming there are any:

After reading the instructions for the tool that is sold online for removing the bushings, I cobbled one together from some plumbing and hardware parts. Here is what I used.

1. 3 inch male to male steel/iron pipe connector
2. 3 inch pipe cap
3. 2 inch pipe cap
4. 1.5 inch pipe cap
5. 1.25 inch pipe cap
6. .5 inch threaded rod with lots of nuts and washers

I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the center of all pipe caps to allow the threaded rod to go through.

To Remove.
1. Place 1.25 inch pipe cap on top of the subframe bushing, wth the opening of the pipe cap facing the bushing
2. Run a length of the threaded rod through the bushing and pipe cap, and secure with two nuts
3. Place the 3 inch pipe cap on the 3 inch pipe connector and slide over the bottom of the threaded rod and then place a washer and nut on the bottom.
4. Crank away on the bottom nut to pull the old bushing out. I found it came out easier when I tightened it down some and then heated the subframe a little with a torch, but not enough to set the bushing on fire or melt it.

A word of caution, the 1.25 inch cap will fit into the bushing opening on the subframe but will not come out the bottom as it there is a dimple near the bottom of the opening that catches it. So you will need to dismantle the setup once the bushing is out and take the 1.25 inch cap out the top. The 3 inch sleeve will not sit level due to the design of the subframe, but this did not seem to be a problem.

To Install

1. Place 2 inch cap on top of the subframe, wth the opening of the pipe cap facing the bushing
2. Run a length of threaded rod through the cap and secure with two nuts
3. Place the new bushing over the threaded rod on the bottom of the subframe and place the 1.5 inch pipe cap over the bottom of the bushing with the opening of the pipe cap facing the bushing
4. Place a washer and nut over the cap and tighten away

I used a water with small amount of dish soap as a lubricant. I did find that the threaded rod may strip out depending on how much force is required to press the bushings. When I had the first bushing almost all the way in I stripped the threaded rod and had to cut it off. I then enlarged the hole in the two pipe caps to allow me to use the subframe mounting bolt, I was replacing them anyways, which is a higher grade stronger nut and bolt. This pressed the bushing in the rest of the way with no problem. I also strongly recommend that you get a Gearwrench, or similar ratcheting wrench, as it makes the job go much quicker.

All parts can be purchased at a local home improvement store, except the 3 inch pipe fittings which I had to get at a plumbing supply store.

I put together the following for anyone not familiar with the problem:

I picked up a 528iT and at some point want to replace the rear subframe bushings. Since the iT's are rare here in the states, the tool to remove the bushings isn't readily available and dealers charge an insane amount of cash to replace them.

The job isn't that difficult if you have the right bushing removal tool......which of course BMW also charges an insane amount for.

Pics of the bushings:
http://www.bmwland.co.uk/talker/view...=410179#410179

Can anyone think of a homemade tool or way of making one to remove something like this? The bushing is essentially rammed into an aluminum can like enclosure with the top open for mounting etc. To remove, you drop the subframe slightly and attach the tool to the top and mount the bottom recessed piece to the frame and tighten a bolt to pull it out. It's not rocket science........just finding a cheap solution is a major challenge.

5, 4 and 2 of the following show one of the bushings and how it mounts.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...25&hg=33&fg=30

Anyone going to have the opportunity to try something like this?

FYI: The bushings are fluid filled when new, so if you have north of 60K or so......your bushings are probably dry and cracked. You can test by jacking your vehicle up and looking for the cracking etc on the bushings.

[kentd98]

have you tried contacting www.technictool.com?

they might be able to fabricate the bushing puller you are looking for. they already have a rear axle carrier bushing tool set, it just doesn't include a die for the e39 bushings.

Hope this helps,
Kent

[dbruce]

Ok....all you happy Touring owners with crappy subframe bushings......I bought the AFT47:

http://franklin-tools.co.uk/acatalog/index.html

My plan is to bring it to ICS in Stamford and get a new quote on how much to do the work.....without pulling the subframe. The previous quote was 850 with no parts....and included installing new Tie rods. Total would have been 1200 or so at least.

http://www.icsperformance.com/

The tool cost me $450 shipped out of England. If I can find enough people running around ICS that want the work done.....I can just sell it to him (I'm taking bets on that) or get my money back sending it around.

In any case........I should have the tool in a week or so. Once that's done.........I'll post with what I'm going to do with it. If you're in the NYC, CT or NJ areas and once I get a quote from ICS on the install, are willing to let them handle it......let me know. With enough people...they will probably just pass the tool cost on.

Let me know.

[sabbos1]

Ok....all you happy Touring owners with crappy subframe bushings......I bought the AFT47:

http://franklin-tools.co.uk/acatalog/index.html

My plan is to bring it to ICS in Stamford and get a new quote on how much to do the work.....without pulling the subframe. The previous quote was 850 with no parts....and included installing new Tie rods. Total would have been 1200 or so at least.

http://www.icsperformance.com/

The tool cost me $450 shipped out of England. If I can find enough people running around ICS that want the work done.....I can just sell it to him (I'm taking bets on that) or get my money back sending it around.

In any case........I should have the tool in a week or so. Once that's done.........I'll post with what I'm going to do with it. If you're in the NYC, CT or NJ areas and once I get a quote from ICS on the install, are willing to let them handle it......let me know. With enough people...they will probably just pass the tool cost on.

Let me know.

Thanks for taking the time to follow up on this. Looking forward to hear the final outcome.

[boom2085]

Ok....all you happy Touring owners with crappy subframe bushings......I bought the AFT47:

http://franklin-tools.co.uk/acatalog/index.html

My plan is to bring it to ICS in Stamford and get a new quote on how much to do the work.....without pulling the subframe. The previous quote was 850 with no parts....and included installing new Tie rods. Total would have been 1200 or so at least.

http://www.icsperformance.com/

The tool cost me $450 shipped out of England. If I can find enough people running around ICS that want the work done.....I can just sell it to him (I'm taking bets on that) or get my money back sending it around.

In any case........I should have the tool in a week or so. Once that's done.........I'll post with what I'm going to do with it. If you're in the NYC, CT or NJ areas and once I get a quote from ICS on the install, are willing to let them handle it......let me know. With enough people...they will probably just pass the tool cost on.

Let me know.

I would be willing to rent the tool from you if you want to go that rout.

[sabbos1]

I would be willing to rent the tool from you if you want to go that rout.

+1

[dbruce]

I would be willing to rent the tool from you if you want to go that rout.

Once I get my bushings out.....I'll figure out what I'm going to do with it.

[boom2085]

Once I get my bushings out.....I'll figure out what I'm going to do with it.

Sweet.

[rocketwagon]

I admire your resilience. I just threw money at mine; thanks for doing the Touring public a service.

[dbruce]

I admire your resilience. I just threw money at mine; thanks for doing the Touring public a service.

I've just decided that I am going to essentially update everything suspension wise.....and this bushing tool is better then having ICS ship it off to a machine shop to hack them out.

If the use of this tool cuts the cost to lets say 300 or 400 plus the parts.....it was worth buying and I break even right there. If I get a few people to rent it or we just keep passing it on after a nominal fee is deducted........that's good for all and gets the costs down to practically nothing for the tool.

With the right tool.....this doesn't look too bad.....at least in the Bentley book. I might have a go at it myself.....using a mechanic friend with all the right tools (air wrenches etc).

Giving this a bit of thought......the following is probably what I will do:

Once I'm finished with the tool and we all know it works....this is how I will "rent" it.

1. Charge for whoever wants it will be 50+shipping each way. I think this is pretty fair.
2. A deposit will be put into Escrow.com for what the tool is worth....say 400 for the first use and it gets reduced as the tool gets banged up. Renter pays Escrow fees (a few bucks last time I used them)
3. The limit on the transaction will be 2 weeks. Once the two weeks is over....Escrow will release the deposit to me and the tool is now owned by whoever has it (you lose your deposit and now must pass on the tool).
4. If I get the tool back before Escrow releases the funds.....they refund the cash back to you (the renter).

Cost to rent should come out around $70 or so considering all the shipping etc. If the tool gets broken.....the "renter" must fix it or he now owns it. No refund of deposit for a broken tool.

If this sounds like it will work and it's fair.......if you can live with it.......Sign up (I'll put those that posted first on top of the list). I obviously still have to sort out my own install etc.....but say 2 or 3 weeks and I can start this up.

[oekundar]

SO what exactly does this tool do?...I'm sorry...just lost.

[kbsilver]

I've just decided that I am going to essentially update everything suspension wise.....and this bushing tool is better then having ICS ship it off to a machine shop to hack them out.

If the use of this tool cuts the cost to lets say 300 or 400 plus the parts.....it was worth buying and I break even right there. If I get a few people to rent it or we just keep passing it on after a nominal fee is deducted........that's good for all and gets the costs down to practically nothing for the tool.

With the right tool.....this doesn't look too bad.....at least in the Bentley book. I might have a go at it myself.....using a mechanic friend with all the right tools (air wrenches etc).

Giving this a bit of thought......the following is probably what I will do:

Once I'm finished with the tool and we all know it works....this is how I will "rent" it.

1. Charge for whoever wants it will be 50+shipping each way. I think this is pretty fair.
2. A deposit will be put into Escrow.com for what the tool is worth....say 400 for the first use and it gets reduced as the tool gets banged up. Renter pays Escrow fees (a few bucks last time I used them)
3. The limit on the transaction will be 2 weeks. Once the two weeks is over....Escrow will release the deposit to me and the tool is now owned by whoever has it (you lose your deposit and now must pass on the tool).
4. If I get the tool back before Escrow releases the funds.....they refund the cash back to you (the renter).

Cost to rent should come out around $70 or so considering all the shipping etc. If the tool gets broken.....the "renter" must fix it or he now owns it. No refund of deposit for a broken tool.

If this sounds like it will work and it's fair.......if you can live with it.......Sign up (I'll put those that posted first on top of the list). I obviously still have to sort out my own install etc.....but say 2 or 3 weeks and I can start this up.

Am currently doing a similar thing for the rear ball joint tool (actually a little kit including the tool and some unusual size sockets and the lock ring pliers I purchased to do the job). Don't konw how difficult the escrow ting is to work. In my case am asking for a paypal payment of the value of the Kit ($130) which includes shipping one way (USPS flat rate box works well for things that are small but heavy). If the "renter" never returns it, they just bought it and no harm done. When it is returned I do a paypal refund of $100. Because the majority of the $$ ends up refunded, the paypal fees are not too bad.

I would make the time period a bit longer (3 weeks) as shipping coud be nearly a week each way depending on distance.

[Ben Carufel]

SO what exactly does this tool do?...I'm sorry...just lost.

It pulls out the old and pushes in the new rear subframe bushings -- there are two per side at the back of the car, for a total of 4.

[dbruce]

Am currently doing a similar thing for the rear ball joint tool (actually a little kit including the tool and some unusual size sockets and the lock ring pliers I purchased to do the job). Don't konw how difficult the escrow ting is to work. In my case am asking for a paypal payment of the value of the Kit ($130) which includes shipping one way (USPS flat rate box works well for things that are small but heavy). If the "renter" never returns it, they just bought it and no harm done. When it is returned I do a paypal refund of $100. Because the majority of the $$ ends up refunded, the paypal fees are not too bad.

I would make the time period a bit longer (3 weeks) as shipping coud be nearly a week each way depending on distance.

Yea....3 weeks is a possibility also. Or someone could just buy it for 400 and then resell it.

Either way.....there will be working tool running around in a few weeks.

Forgot to mention......Paypal isn't very secure when it comes to payments etc. There is no customer service for problems and if there is ever a conflict......finding a resolution is almost impossible using Paypal support. In the case of Escrow.....they handle everything equally from the buyer and seller side.....so if there are any problems, either side can call foul and all cash will be refunded. For any large transactions......it's the only method I will use.

[dbruce]

OK....don't get too excited everyone.

[kbsilver]

Doesn't look anything like what they show in the Bentley manual but presume it works the same. That is a remover & installer or remover only? Hope you (or someone) will be taking pictures for us DIY'ers! Is the bushing the same between touring and sedan or different?

Keep up the good work!!!

[dbruce]

Doesn't look anything like what they show in the Bentley manual but presume it works the same. That is a remover & installer or remover only? Hope you (or someone) will be taking pictures for us DIY'ers!

It does both. The thing weighs a ton and it's one of the few tools I've ever looked at like a work of art.

For one thing, it's built like a tank.....so not worried about it getting damaged (unless someone uses an air wrench on it). My plan, after looking at this thing, is to just sell it to the next guy that wants to pull the bushings. I plan on taking it to a guy I use for standard work on my cars.....with this thing, the rear bushings should be child's play.

It is 15.5 pounds.

[Mad Dog 20/20]

nice.

400 bones is steep for that though.

Now that you have it, I'd think it would be pretty easy to duplicate it for less than $100 of washer, pipe, bolt, nut, etc.

[dbruce]

nice.

400 bones is steep for that though.

Now that you have it, I'd think it would be pretty easy to duplicate it for less than $100 of washer, pipe, bolt, nut, etc.

No doubt on it being steep, but with my mechanic buddy doing the work (I'll pay him whatever he wants), it better then breaks even on first use. Once sold, the entire bushing install will cost me around 600 or so (78 per bushing + what I pay mechanic).

All in all, not a bad deal.

As for creating a duplicate, best of luck, this thing is something else. Includes instructions for the replacement, with the sub-frame still installed. In addition, you do not need to heat the subframe when using this tool......just some penetrating oil on the old bushing.

[kbsilver]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...9#post13352399

I know the manual indicates to heat up with a heat gun, just happen to have one. But the tool that dbruce has looks like that step is not needed.

[cpatstone]

I admire your resilience. I just threw money at mine; thanks for doing the Touring public a service.

+1

BTW, one bit from my project that I can offer you is the four long metric studs, so you can (more) safely lower the subframe ass'y from the car, and know that everything is still lined up. PM me your address. I'll weigh them and see what shipping will be, and you can see if it's worth it.

Cheers -

[cpatstone]

In addition, you do not need to heat the subframe when using this tool......just some penetrating oil on the old bushing.

I used lots of soapy water. no heat. worked fine, and cleaned things up a bit, too. Bonus - no oil drips on my bro's garage floor.

[dbruce]

+1

BTW, one bit from my project that I can offer you is the four long metric studs, so you can (more) safely lower the subframe ass'y from the car, and know that everything is still lined up. PM me your address. I'll weigh them and see what shipping will be, and you can see if it's worth it.

Cheers -

I'm actually sending my car to www.icsperformance.com/ in Stamford and letting them deal with it. I'm also having the following done.....so might as well get it all done right the first time:

Subframe bushings. (Have parts)
Powerflex control arm bushings (Have parts)
Tie Rods (Have Parts)
Rear control arms (Have parts)
Diff leak
Oil level gasket leak
Coolant maintenance items
Pre-Cat O2's (Have parts)
Intake boot and Maf (have parts....may do myself).


Gotta love "maintenance"

FYI: Guy on Bimmerfest offered to buy the tool. He's out in VA. If that falls through, I'll post it for sale again.

[kbsilver]

Is it really as easy as it seems. Those big bolts come out without a fight? Seems like with the tool, this should take about an hour once the car is up on stands and the wheels off. Did you use any new parts besides the bushings (such as those large bolts)? May take you up on the offer for the threaded rods.

[kbsilver]

Hopefully who ever buys it will be willing to sell it again. $50-$70 less each time would likely work well and would be able to eventually cover the entire cost that way.