Replacing sliders and greasing front door tracks

[TR6]

i need to do this. my passenger window is sl ow. it stops in the middle

-OG

This procedure will definitely fix that. My windows started out getting slow and eratic and finally got so bad that they would just slowly go down an inch or so and then stop altogether. Now they work great. One of my sliders had gotten so bad that one side of it was worn away. Funny thing was the dealer wanted to replace motors and everything. I can't imagine what that would have cost. All it needs is the little plastic sliders and some lube.

[TR6]

did anyone have issues getting the window to align nicely?

No issues here. Didn't even require any extra adjustment or alignment. I just put it back together exactly as it came apart and everything is watertight and the window goes up exactly to where it should. Only problem I had was scratching the window tint...

[Car54]

One thing that I discovered over time, is that if you don't put your outer door seal on, the one you kind of have to beat in, correctly leaving enough room on the door strike side, it will eventually split your weather stripping that is attached at the jamb (can you say run-on sentence).

In other words, use the paper trick on the window to test seal, then use paper trick on the door seal where it meets the striker side of the jamb (towards the back) and make sure your rubber doesn't rub.

[JT///M3]

One thing that I discovered over time, is that if you don't put your outer door seal on, the one you kind of have to beat in, correctly leaving enough room on the door strike side, it will eventually split your weather stripping that is attached at the jamb (can you say run-on sentence).

In other words, use the paper trick on the window to test seal, then use paper trick on the door seal where it meets the striker side of the jamb (towards the back) and make sure your rubber doesn't rub.

can you elaborate on this "paper" trick?

[QuestMCoupe]

Yes please elaborate a bit on that paper trick cause I have no idea what you're talking about. LOL

[Car54]

Sure, so grab a sheet of paper and close your door/windows on the sheet of paper. Sliding or not sliding the paper around will show you where you are tight and where you need to adjust. Use this same method when adjusting your door strike, or the above mentioned seal that will tear....see pic for location

[QuestMCoupe]

Did my passenger side window this evening...what a PITA! It works much better now though. Thanks to the OP and everyone else who provided some info in this thread.

[metralla66]

BUMP....need to keep this near the top of the forum.....have to do it this weekend

[ZUUD BYE]

Getting ready to jump in to this job, car warming up to ambient now.....

[ZUUD BYE]

Done @ 3pm, got started about 12:30. Very straight forward- no problems at all.

Windows feel like 1996 again!!

[dsuraci]

Definitely next on my project ToDo list (wish it was shorter). Thank you for the write up!

[tonysofia]

Just a FYI bavauto has the sliders (51 32 1 938 884) for 2.95 each, I just ordered 4 to do both doors for a total of $17.75 shipped.

[bostongreen328i]

Is removing the fixed glass necessary to do this? (sorry if this was already answered)

Great write up as well.

[Petra]

Is removing the fixed glass necessary to do this? (sorry if this was already answered)

Yes, because you need to be able to 'slide' the tracks that are on the window glass over/onto the plastic sliders (which are attached to the arms of the window ascent/descent assembly). If the fixed glass is left in place, then there is no room to maneuver the window glass around to attach or remove it.

[bostongreen328i]

Yes, because you need to be able to 'slide' the tracks that are on the window glass over/onto the plastic sliders (which are attached to the arms of the window ascent/descent assembly). If the fixed glass is left in place, then there is no room to maneuver the window glass around to attach or remove it.

Just replaced the sliders without having to touch any of the glass. Just pop the ball ends out of the sliders (with a screw driver) after removing the clip (also with a screw driver) and push the slider out of the track with your finger. Then do the reverse with the new ones using pliers to push the ball ends back into the new sliders.

[JT///M3]

Just replaced the sliders without having to touch any of the glass. Just pop the ball ends out of the sliders (with a screw driver) after removing the clip (also with a screw driver) and push the slider out of the track with your finger. Then do the reverse with the new ones using pliers to push the ball ends back into the new sliders.

Ok, please illustrate or use video to demonstrate this. I'd like to try it this way!

[bostongreen328i]

Ok, please illustrate or use video to demonstrate this. I'd like to try it this way!

Don't think I can illustrate it very well, so I'll just be more descriptive. Once you have the door panel off; raise the window till the sliders are toward the top of the opening in the door. Get a flat head screw driver and pry off the clips on the sliders. Then get a larger flat head screw driver and place it between the slider track and the regulator arm and pry the ball end out of the slider. While still holding pressure to keep the ball end out of the slider; push the slider out of the way and relieve pressure on the arm and track (take the screw driver out). Now you can push the slider the rest of the way out of the track with your finger.

Then lube up the track and place the new slider in one end. Use your screw driver to pry apart the arm and track again and push the new slider under the ball end to where it rests in the hole. Now press the ball end into the slider with some pliers and replace the clip.

Let me know if you need more detail on anything.

[Car54]

A key to getting this to make an improvement is cleaning all the old junk out of the track and re-lubing it. It's hard to do if you don't take it apart.

[Petra]

Just replaced the sliders without having to touch any of the glass. Just pop the ball ends out of the sliders (with a screw driver) after removing the clip (also with a screw driver) and push the slider out of the track with your finger. Then do the reverse with the new ones using pliers to push the ball ends back into the new sliders.

Okay, yeah, that would have been easier than what I went through...

Then again, there was a lot of rather nasty junk that I ended up cleaning out... so I guess that I don't feel so bad about it.

[gregsauls]

Don't think I can illustrate it very well, so I'll just be more descriptive. Once you have the door panel off; raise the window till the sliders are toward the top of the opening in the door. Get a flat head screw driver and pry off the clips on the sliders. Then get a larger flat head screw driver and place it between the slider track and the regulator arm and pry the ball end out of the slider. While still holding pressure to keep the ball end out of the slider; push the slider out of the way and relieve pressure on the arm and track (take the screw driver out). Now you can push the slider the rest of the way out of the track with your finger.

Then lube up the track and place the new slider in one end. Use your screw driver to pry apart the arm and track again and push the new slider under the ball end to where it rests in the hole. Now press the ball end into the slider with some pliers and replace the clip.

Let me know if you need more detail on anything.

I did my "new to me" '96 roady this past weekend using this quick method (not pulling the whole window mech out). I was able to clean the slide rails with brake cleaner, q-tips and a rag very well. I then dipped the new sliders in the lithium grease and packed them good. Windows now work great!

Now for the next project to restore the little beast.... replace "slightly" bent rear sub-frame (rear has 2 degrees toe OUT)! Just gotta find one at a fair price!

[phrider]

Now for the next project to restore the little beast.... replace "slightly" bent rear sub-frame (rear has 2 degrees toe OUT)! Just gotta find one at a fair price!

Sorry for the OT digression, but.....

You ought to be able to justify fixing that bent subframe quick based on tire wear alone. That and the substantially increased risk of an unplanned oversteer spin.

You also probably need to replace one or both trailing arms.

Any subframe or trailing arm that you buy used is likely to be bent (you'll also need new wheel bearings to go with the trailing arms). This isn't a cheap repair, but it's important. And you can do the IE subframe bushings at the same time (and the AKG eccentric camber/toe adjustors or the IE weld-in camber/toe adjusters).

Do you know how it got so bent? If so, it might be claimable on your insurance.

[gregsauls]

Sorry for the OT digression, but.....

You ought to be able to justify fixing that bent subframe quick based on tire wear alone. That and the substantially increased risk of an unplanned oversteer spin.

You also probably need to replace one or both trailing arms.

Any subframe or trailing arm that you buy used is likely to be bent (you'll also need new wheel bearings to go with the trailing arms). This isn't a cheap repair, but it's important. And you can do the IE subframe bushings at the same time (and the AKG eccentric camber/toe adjustors or the IE weld-in camber/toe adjusters).

Do you know how it got so bent? If so, it might be claimable on your insurance.

Bought the car that way last month (couldn't pass up a "deal"0. Right trailing arm, half-shaft, rta bushings and right wheel bearing was replaced with new items by a body shop through the previous owner.

When I did a close inspection I could see the left trailing arm bracket on the sub-frame connecting to the right trailing arm raised up about 1/4" and slightly bent. Right trailing arm is new and in great shape and should fit nicely on a "straighter" sub-frame. The body shop just didn't do a full repair and replace the sub-frame too. I do realize that "many" used sub-frames may be bent and as such junk. With that in mind, any "new" sub-frame that I get will have the IE weld-in kit installed.

[phrider]

Congrats on the deal. Best of luck on the parts hunt.

[Car54]

Here's my story: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post13743841

Funny ending...my bent subframe ended up in another Mcoupe with a bent trailing arm (toe-in)...they were a good match for each other.

[gregsauls]

Funny ending...my bent subframe ended up in another Mcoupe with a bent trailing arm (toe-in)...they were a good match for each other.

I got a little divot in the heat shield just like in your picture... same side too!