DIY Starter Replacement HELL! Help please?

[bitcore]

Ok, so after reading for about two days on how to replace the starter, I decide to remove the intake manifold and attack this beast from up top. I get my buddy to help me get this thing off, midway during the manifold removal and everything is going fine. Once we get it off, we see that a socket wrench will NOT fit in between the vanes of the transmission for either bolt, and begin running into problems. I solved this problem and got the first bolt off after going at it from under the transmission using the correct torx socket, a U joint, and some extensions. No problem. The 2nd bolt, however, can't be gotten from the bottom very easially, I presume not without another U joint, more extensions, and the removal of some deadening/heat shield material or a bunch of disassembly around then transmission.
So my buddy winds up ghetto rigging this tool made out of a 3/8's box wrench and a pipe that doesn't even fit the wrench. I tell him that it's the wrong tool and you NEED a tool with a torx head because the torque required for these bolts is really high - thats why they are there. If I could find a closed end wrench that was torx, then I'd buy it for this, but he reassures me it's fine, and proceeds to round off the bolt head AND strip the box wrench.
The torx socket I bought no longer fits on the bolt because the head is marred up. Tonight, we tried getting another U joint and trying a 3/8 socket from under the transmission while my buddy pays careful attention to the socket and bolt to make sure it doesn't start rounding off again. No go. It started to round just a little more, and I hit the emergency stop on that operation.

I definitely need help or at least advice. Anyone who has done this before probably feels my pain and probably doesn't wish that on their worst enemy - I don't.
I know I have a few options:
1. Try to drill it out from the engine bay after the removal of about 90% of the hoses and junk and a right angle drill - MAYBE we could get something like that to fit, I don't know. There is HARDLY any room in the engine bay.
2. Cut the head of the bolt off with a dremmel. This would suck, take forever, and likely mangle the shit out of the transmission. Once I start, there's no turning back. If I have to cut through the starter housing, I wouldn't care, even though there is an 80$ core charge.
3. JB Weld a 3/8 socket onto the torx head, let it cure for a few days, and come back later with those two U joints and extensions.
I'm leaning on doing option 3, but if that doesn't work, or somehow something goes amiss with that plan: now I'd have a rounded off torx head with a bunch of JB weld all over it - and maybe a socket stuck to it.

It's freezing cold in this garage, my 1,500W space heater is NOT cutting it - really it just feels like a 'Hot Hands' packet laying on the floor. What is everyone's thoughts on the JBWeld method? How the hell am I *SUPPOSE* to get these damn bolts off? From the left side of the transmission tunnel, right? Or am I suppose to remove the exhaust, drop all the heat shielding and go from the top around the axle and use about 5 feet of extensions?

This is probably the worst job ever. I'd rather remove my subframe and weld in re-enforcements than fuck with this thing - at least you can fit impact tools on the bolts at the back...

Please excuse my cursing.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[swmnbmw]

JB weld is a good idea, me and my dad have been forced to use it in difficult cases and i would recomend it....but you shouldnt have to wait more than a day for it to cure SOLID

[bitcore]

bump
anyone else?

[redlinedbimmer]

JB weld is what I would try, sounds like the best option

[mbadger]

Option 1 and 2 sound like straight up butchery, option three sounds nice in theory, but as you said, the torque required to remove that bolt is significant and I'm not sure the JBweld will hold, but it's worth a try since you have applied some pressure already.

Hit the bolt with some PBBlaster to loosen it up before you try loosening it again.

If you can't get it with option 3., then Option 2 sounds like a plan if you can get the leverage to cut that bolt off. Good luck.

[jordanmgregory]

Try the JB weld, then when that doesn't work and the JB cracks, use the dremel... it wouldn't be that bad.

[bitcore]

I've been splattering it with PB Blaster for the past few days, so hopefully that ought to have penetrated a little more than just spraying it an hour before trying to get this sucker out.

Should I take the exhaust heat shield and exhaust off to get to this bolt from above the transmission instead of coming up from the back-left side (near the cross member)? Would taking all that crap off give me significantly better access to the bolt? I want to have the best attack angle possible instead of snaking up a bunch of extensions and TWO u-joints from near the transmission cross member. I don't know if I can even get to that bolt by doing this, can I? I don't know how much clearance the top of the transmission has against the axle tunnel.

Man, this is insane.
Thanks for the replies, it's definitely bringing my sanity back!

[mbadger]

check the auto to stick conversion thread for options regarding access to the starter bolt.

[bitcore]

This Thread?
My god, that's a lot of information to wade through

edit: Ok I think I know what I have to do now. Drop heat shield, maybe remove a crossbrace that's only for the frame of the car, and hopefully I can get it that way - otherwise, I'll have to drop the exhaust out of the car, unbolt the transmission brace, and jack the front of the engine up some - and try again.

[skiboard06]

Just experienced this recently. All you need is a "bolt-out" socket from craftsman (sears). This will easily bite into the stripped torx head and remove it. You can either use swivel joints and awkward arm positions to reach the torx head or you can lower the rear of the tranny and use straight long extensions. Hope this helps.

[mbadger]

This Thread?
My god, that's a lot of information to wade through

edit: Ok I think I know what I have to do now. Drop heat shield, maybe remove a crossbrace that's only for the frame of the car, and hopefully I can get it that way - otherwise, I'll have to drop the exhaust out of the car, unbolt the transmission brace, and jack the front of the engine up some - and try again.

Yeah, sorry I was replying on the pda and didnt have the multitasking resources to look up and paste the exact link. Here's another from one of the guys who wrote up a DIY on the swap with pics, etc...

http://uhaweb.hartford.edu/gentile/5spdswap/

[bitcore]

That's ok man, It's WAY better than saying nothing at all
I found some pictures deep in the thread, around the last 10 pages that explained things to me a WHOLE lot better. The pic was from where the driveshaft would be, the driveshaft was removed and showed what above the transmission looked like. I assumed there would be some linkages like the manual has, but instead there's only a sheathed cable that connects the gear selector to the auto tranny, and shouldn't be a problem to shove a long extension over it.
The only thing I don't know in that picture, is wither the rear transmission mounts have been removed and the front of the engine was jacked up. Granted, doing that would only rotate the engine+tranny a few degrees, but if that's what I have to do, it's what I got to do.

I checked out that link when I stumbled upon it while (very) quickly skimming through the thread, there weren't any pictures of the transmission removal, but reading it helped a little bit.
I'm going to try the JB weld method, if that doesn't work and just makes things worse, I may try to use a bolt out socket from Craftsman, and if that won't get the sucker off, I'll cut or grind it off with a dremmel.... Ugh I really don't want to resort to that...

[mbadger]

That's ok man, It's WAY better than saying nothing at all
I found some pictures deep in the thread, around the last 10 pages that explained things to me a WHOLE lot better. The pic was from where the driveshaft would be, the driveshaft was removed and showed what above the transmission looked like. I assumed there would be some linkages like the manual has, but instead there's only a sheathed cable that connects the gear selector to the auto tranny, and shouldn't be a problem to shove a long extension over it.
The only thing I don't know in that picture, is wither the rear transmission mounts have been removed and the front of the engine was jacked up. Granted, doing that would only rotate the engine+tranny a few degrees, but if that's what I have to do, it's what I got to do.

I checked out that link when I stumbled upon it while (very) quickly skimming through the thread, there weren't any pictures of the transmission removal, but reading it helped a little bit.
I'm going to try the JB weld method, if that doesn't work and just makes things worse, I may try to use a bolt out socket from Craftsman, and if that won't get the sucker off, I'll cut or grind it off with a dremmel.... Ugh I really don't want to resort to that...

If you just remove the four bolts on the transmission cross brace (get out from directly beneath it when you do) and tilt the engine, it will give you TONS more visibility. With a light you will have a good view of the bolts in question. Hope the JB holds enough for you to get the bolt out.

[bitcore]

Would this twerk the axle and damage it or my support bearing- ie: so I must unbolt the driveshaft from the transmission at the Guibo? ...or is there a spline somewhere (near the center support bearing I guess) that allows the drive shaft to extend and contract just slightly? Pitching the engine up and the transmission down will pull on the drive shaft since the engine is secured and wont move backwards to follow the axle's unchanging radius of rotation (where center is at diff)
I can imagine my exhaust bolts will be an adventure in themselves to let me rotate the engine.
I'll read up on this later in that thread, if that info is there, but if you don't know this off the top of your head then don't worry about it.

Hopefully I wont have to do anything other than remove the heatshields...

[mbadger]

Would this twerk the axle and damage it or my support bearing- ie: so I must unbolt the driveshaft from the transmission at the Guibo? ...or is there a spline somewhere (near the center support bearing I guess) that allows the drive shaft to extend and contract just slightly? Pitching the engine up and the transmission down will pull on the drive shaft since the engine is secured and wont move backwards to follow the axle's unchanging radius of rotation (where center is at diff)
I can imagine my exhaust bolts will be an adventure in themselves to let me rotate the engine.
I'll read up on this later in that thread, if that info is there, but if you don't know this off the top of your head then don't worry about it.

Hopefully I wont have to do anything other than remove the heatshields...

Exhaust Mid-Pipe most likely will have to be disconnected
Drive Shaft at the GUIBO, it can be angled to rest on an outward angle so you can tilt the tranny

yes, the exhaust bolts at the muffler side of the mid pipe and especially the header may give trouble due to rust, snap as a result of over torquing, etc...it's fun...not

[bitcore]

Cool, thanks Mbadger, I'll get on this next week after I'm done with these 3 tests I have lined up.

[cb7tunner]

wtf!!! jb weld? dont even think about it you will never get it off that way. your best bet is cutting the starter housing.

[bitcore]

lol dude this was over a year ago.
I wound up using the correct torx socket, put it on a about 4 feet of extension, and taking a 3 lb hammer and smacking the shit out of the extensions, hammering it onto the bolt.

Came right out.

lessened learned, and drilled into my head: always use the right fucking tool for the job.

[matwrocs52m3]

97 M3 140K miles. Starter would spin but not engage the Flywheel.
Intake manifold was off already so this is how we did it.
Used a 3/8 breaker bar and socket. this bends past 90 degrees and allows removal of the TORX head bolts from the top of the engine compartment without dropping the transmission down at a angle or other contortions that I have read about.
The solenoid is held by 3 phillips head screws. My phillips bit broke off in one so I had to drill it out. I then counter bored all three holes and used socket head cap screws to hold the solenoid. All that was needed was a good cleaning.
I made studs (10 x 1.50mm) for the starter and blue thread locked them.
I used washers, lock washers and nuts to hold the starter. In the future i will make smaller nuts on my lathe so that a box wrench (instead of a open end) will fit.

George
Hoover AL.
97 M3
2000 Audi S4
83 911SC
82 928

[JD CARS]

Hey guys I have an E90 Starter Replacement SHORTCUT!! I too had to replace my starter and I was able to complete the repair in about 3 hours! It only cost me about $90 total...a lot less than taking it to the shop!

Here's my short 10min video on E90 starter replacement: https://youtu.be/7pT1GT3JxWg

[LockDots]

Wrong section. You have an E90. This is the E36 section.

[strayts]

Holy crap man, talk about reviving an old thread.