BMW Inspection I
<B>Undercarriage</B>
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Use only Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic oil, or Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 Synthetic oil, BMW p/n 07 51 0 009 420.
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Half shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.
Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.
Check condition, positioning, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks. Check p/s fluid level; add fluid if necessary.
Check overall thickness of rear disc brake pads using special tool. Record results. If replacement is necessary*:
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads. Record results.
Remove and install front disc brake pads, check overall thickness.
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare - except M3, M5, Z8 and Alpina). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested.*
Note:If requested rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance.*
Replace M-Mobility System sealant cartridge every 3 years.
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).
<B>Engine Compartment</B>
Read out diagnostic system.
Check and adjust valves.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Note: Coolant must be replaced every 4 years (time interval begins from vehicle's production date).
Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.
Replace brake fluid every 2 years (timing interval begins from vehicle's production date).*
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner operation.
Replace microfilter.
Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
Reset Service Indicator.
<B>Body/Electrical Equipment</B>
Check battery state-of-charge, and charge if required.*
Check lighting system, i.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license-plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
Check wipers and washer system(s);wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Recharge or replace batteries for remote controls in all vehicle master keys.
Check central locking/double lock.
Check operation of all latches.
Check heater/air conditioner blower fan, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors.
Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
Activate automatic roll-over protection system (if equipped) via diagnostic link.
Note:First remove hardtop/lower top (325Cic and 330Cic only).
<B>Final Inspection</B>
Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission (except M3, M5, and Z8).
Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by hundreds of engineers that get paid thousands of dollars for something you bought at Pep Boys because your buddy who doesn't have a job told you it was 'better'?!?
<FONT color="red"><B>BMW Inspection II</B></FONT>
<B>Undercarriage</B>
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Use only Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic oil, or Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 Synthetic oil, BMW p/n 07 51 0 009 420.
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Half shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.
Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.
Check condition, positioning, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks. Check p/s fluid level; add fluid if necessary.
Check overall thickness of rear disc brake pads using special tool. Record results. If replacement is necessary*:
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads. Record results.
Remove and install front disc brake pads, check overall thickness.
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare - except M3, M5, Z8 and Alpina). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested.*
Note:If requested rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance.*
Replace M-Mobility System sealant cartridge every 3 years.
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).
Replace transmission fluid.
Replace differential oil.
<B>Engine Compartment</B>
Read out diagnostic system.
Check and adjust valves.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Note: Coolant must be replaced every 4 years (time interval begins from vehicle's production date).
Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.
Replace brake fluid every 2 years (timing interval begins from vehicle's production date).*
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner operation.
Replace microfilter.
Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
Reset Service Indicator.
Replace intake air cleaner element.
Note: Reduce replace interval in dusty operating conditions.
Replace spark plugs.
<B>Body/Electrical Equipment </B>
Check battery state-of-charge, and charge if required.*
Check lighting system, i.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license-plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
Check wipers and washer system(s);wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Recharge or replace batteries for remote controls in all vehicle master keys.
Check central locking/double lock.
Check operation of all latches.
Check heater/air conditioner blower fan, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors.
Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
Activate automatic roll-over protection system (if equipped) via diagnostic link.
Note:First remove hardtop/lower top (325Cic and 330Cic only).
<B>Final Inspection</B>
Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission (except M3, M5, and Z8).
Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by hundreds of engineers that get paid thousands of dollars for something you bought at Pep Boys because your buddy who doesn't have a job told you it was 'better'?!?
How can I tell if my valves have been adjusted at the previous service? Thanks
Look on the print out from the dealer... if they were adjusted, you'll see part numbers for the shims that were used.
Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by hundreds of engineers that get paid thousands of dollars for something you bought at Pep Boys because your buddy who doesn't have a job told you it was 'better'?!?
Ersin
E46 M3 Ti Silver
Dinam Stage I seat covers, ///M valve stem caps, ///M license plate frame and manual rear sunshade. Modified stock muffler.These are considered mods right?
anyone knows how much would they charge?
This is some great information.
Thanks.
I have inspection I due in 1200 miles.
EUROPROJEKTZ - NorCal ChapterErvin (Bay Area Detailer)___________________
2000 B5 S4 Stg. 3
2004 VW R32 (sold)
2004 E46 m3 (sold)
FWIW, this is a copy of the 2004 BMWNA checklist for 3-series. Admin can delete if it's duplicated somewhere.
Freude am Fahren
2017 F31 Sport Wagon
'11 VW Golf TDI (which retained its value *REALLY* well!)
I am having my insp done this fri,and its gonna cost about 1200 beans,yes this is through the stealer and yes this is up in the great white north.
Do you believe in life after death?? Fuck with my car and you'll find out...Icabob "Crane"
JUST modded...M5...AFe CAI,EVOTECH Stage 2 ECU upgrade,Akrapovic CAT back exhaust,for a dyno tuned total of...575BHP...hehehe.
1200 is what my cost is too but my cars still at the shop, apparently i've broken a "gevo" disk some crazy name or something like that, Its a plate thats is between where my driveshaft connectes to my transmission, It was making a really bad vibration under accel. Started happening like 20 miles before inspection 2 was due which it started happening like 3 days ago so i took it in yesterday.
2003 BMW M3- Stock1991 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo - Too many mods...
What mileage are these inspections due?
-Colin-
2002 M3
Imola red
inspection 1 is typically 25-30k, inspection II is usually 50-60k. actual mileage depends on driving habits because the service interval uses fuel consumption to determine service intervals.
and a gasket being billed on the invoice doesn't guarantee that the valve adjustment has been done. and the shims probably won't show up. we've got a kit with all the different shims, so none of them were billed on the ticket.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
I'm surprised you guys don't have any more questions for me as per why/when/how the valve adjustments are made...
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
Well, technically you don't know if the valve adjustments have been made or not. The only way I could tell you, is to pull the black cover on top of the valve cover and look at the wire harness. If every single wire is in place, and the o2 sensor connectors, and all the wiring are in the exact same position they were in from the factory, then I'd say it hasn't been done. When you pull the valve cover, you have to pull all those wires out of the clips, and move them aside, towards the back of the head. You could also look at the valve cover nuts and see wether or not it looks like someone has put a socket to remove/install them.
The valve adjustment is part of the inspection service on an M3 S54 engine. Most of the Inspection 1's are done under warranty at 25k or so. I just recently went to the M3 class, and from the other techs, there are many dealerships that will do the adjustments. Being under warranty, some tech's think they're not "stealing" from the customer, only BMW warranty. They also think that at only 25-30k, the valves shoudn't need adjusting. It really depends on the dealership, and wether or not you've got tech's that do everything "by the book" or sometimes just short cut things. The one I did recently, probably 10 out of the 24 valves were just a hair looser than specs, and needed a thicker shim. Due to the required valve adjustment, an Inspection 1 on an M3 pays almost 7 hours under warranty. Some techs will just change the fluids and filters, and just move on to another car to make more money, rather than take the time to do the adjustment, because it is definately time consuming. Unfortunately, I work for one of the dealerships that had tech's that shortcut things sometimes, and until I did one two weeks ago, in two years, I have never personally witnessed a valve adjustment. Luckily, we got a new service manager last year that understands the importance of NOT shortcutting stuff such as a valve adjustment. So from here on out, I would expect to see the other tech's doing the adjustment. But we also don't see more than a handful of M3's on a regular basis.
I just hope for your guys' sake, that there's not too many more dealerships like mine out there. These aren't E30 engines that need regular adjustments, but if it's part of the service. I just hope that it would be done, like it's supposed to be done. If warranty pays almost 7 hours, that means you could expect to pay up to 10 hours labor if you're out of warranty, assuming they use the warranty times 1.5 to come up with the customer pay price. And for that much, they BETTER be adjusting your valves!!!
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
diy link anywhere?
I replaced the cams in my E36 M3 with sucess. Is it any harder than that?
Edit: just looked up a DIY online and this is easier than doing a valve adjustment on my R1. If this is the most difficult regular maint item on an E46 M3, I'm golden. 2nd M3 in the driveway, here I come.
Last edited by weaksauce; 01-04-2008 at 03:22 PM.
I was qouted $1850 for inspection II on my 02 M3. from what I've read on the top of this post, valve adjustment is the most important portion of both inspection. I have personally done this during my honda days but not yet on a Bimmer engine. I have access for a lift that will only cost me $3 per hour to use, I'm leaning to conduct most of the inspection myself but except the valve adjustment just yet. but if the dealer will charge me 7 hours to do this, I might as well short change this inspection do the hands on myself since my engine still runs solid during cold and hot temp without any obvious ticking noise... $1850 plus tax is just too stiff for me base on the items being inspected... either way, I will have to spend some bucks to keep it running right.
Last edited by E90TT; 01-06-2008 at 04:47 AM.
Pardon my ignorance, but is Inspection I typically covered under warranty? My M3 is sitting just shy of 30K right now and will be out of warranty this year (2004 car). I want to ensure I get the work done before it runs out.
Thanks in advance,
Will
typically yes, because on most M3's, the Inspection 1 comes up around 20-30k, and most are still under warranty at that point.
What does your service interval say when you first turn the car on? It should be counting down your miles until it's due.
ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician
WHOAAA... Inspection I and or II are covered under warranties? I have a warranty on a 2002 M3 that I just bought, I got the 3 year 45 thousand mile warranty on it, are you telling me I can bring my M3 in to get tuned UNDER the warranty?????
thanks. Ryan
I owned a Honda once. It was more like the Slow and the Curious.
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