750iL Lambda Control 1

[crewdog843]

I looked at my e30 MAF when it was taken off and could see the old coil type spring....I guess the newer ones have newer technology that I hadn't seen demonstrated until today. Thanks, another tidbit into the memory banks.

jake

[v8killer]

ok just called the dealership for the VCV , only to aquire what they cost and they told me over $40 each... is this right? gonna pull mine and clean it, but in case i gotta change, is there a cheaper source for these or am i stuck with the stealership?

[APCR]

My VCV are nasty they look dirtier then my tires after a long drive in the mud and rain and well its just sick i think i should clean that out too VCV I can get everything over here at 002 salvage they have everything around here. West Coast should get them shipped easy

[shogun]

@jake
Yes, the old type was really difficult, but nowadays they are much more sofisticated and the air mass is measured.

@V8killer
usually I buy from www.autohausaz.com
they even ship to me in Japan and prices are often cheaper than the prices I can get from a dealer in Germany with special discount, especially such items as oxy sensors etc.
Compared to prices the dealer in Japan is charging I pay less than 50% in average at Autohaus Arizona, so it does not matter that much to pay for shipping and import duty here, I still get it much cheaper.
Then you can check at
http://bmaparts.com/
Patrick and Yves there in the parts department are very helpfull and they even can get you items not online and dealer only items at good prices.
Remanufactured parts I found recently at good prices
at www.rockauto.com
for example sword, brake parts etc.

[v8killer]

i had looked at those sites along with a few others listed on the e.38.org/e32 but none of the sites even list the VCV, so i'm not sure if they carry it and not list it or not carry this particular part at all.

if you do have a source for this exact part i'd love to have it, let me know please.

one question on cleaning the DK motor, what's the best solvent to use to clean this? i'm assuming carb cleaner is a no no right?

[shogun]

Give Patrick or Yves at BMA a call or send them an email
http://www.bmaparts.com/contact.php?...event=ResetAll
I actually cleaning my ones with carb cleaner. You can test them too by simply sucking and blowing into it. But does not taste that good ;-)

What to use for cleaning?
All mentioned here basically
http://www.e31faq.com/attachments/att34.pdf

Carb cleaner is o.k. for the not so sensitive parts.
I often use "Simple Green" and for more sensitive parts cleaning alcohol.

http://www.p2pays.org/ref/04/03296.pdf

Be VERY CAREFUL with the encoder wipers, best is not to touch them if no need.

I usually add a bit of grease again into the gear as some has left the gear space and is found around the amature and that area.

Just take you time and it is a nice job for the evening.
Maybe you need new bolts too, if the bolts are those of the 'no touch' type.
Any hardware store has them.

Let us know about the results.

[v8killer]

while we're at this, any idea what this code 207 is? all it says is "sensor",. the 2 in 207 means it's on second bank which is driver's side, 7-12, but the 1222 code that i mentioned earlier is coming up as code 207 when you hook up the scanner to the computer underhood and the shop i took it to had no idea what it was.

Any Idea?

ps: went to the car to take out the DK motor to clean and guess what, it's white christmas afterall, lol Snow all over, so it's gonna be delayed for a bit.

Got the oil filler cap though, this one seals on nice and tight, although that didn't make the code go away, i didn't think it would nor did i expect it.

[shogun]

Sensor:
I can only guess here, maybe a coolant sensor or the air sensor in intake for bank 7-12?

[v8killer]

well i went out today and bought a can of brake cleaner, suspecting that the intake may not have been sealed properly after all, even though the shop i took it to used the blue stuff to seal it (not RTV), i forget the name.

so i spray and i hear the rpm go up, i'm thinking maybe it's the injector but that's not it, it's the intake gasket not sealed properly, 2 of the intake ports on passenger side and 2 on the other side that are leaking air, rest seem to be fine.

so now i'm left with a choice, take it back and have them redo it and seal it up this time, or if that can't be done with the sealers, buy maybe 2 gaskets instead of all 4(the are a little too expensive at $100 each and there's 4) and seal the leaky ones only.

I know for $200 it's not worth doing a half assed job, but I'm gonna sell this car i think, i don't like the fact that i gotta pay so much for parts on a car that's 15 years old,by the time i fix 2-3 problems i've spent more than the car is worth. so just gonna fix this and sell it and get something else.

i guess that's 1 way for BMW to make money, F'ing parts...

I'm guessing (hoping more like it) once the intake is sealed up proper both problems should go away, the rough idle and the 1222 code.

I'll keep you updated.

PS: i disconnected the computer over night and reconnected today, to synchronize the DKs, it said when you start it don't touch the throttle, i did as it said, however, i gotta give it a little gas for the lights to get brighter (for some reason charging system needs a little kick in the ass right off the start to start putting out the proper power), but i didn't do that.

i let it die 2 times and restarted (remember chaotic rough idle when cold), i hear a knocking a few times, not like valve knock or rod knock, but a knock like something inside the intake was banging itself against the something, this was on passenger side i thought maybe it's the throttle valve sticking and slamming itself shut so hard that it's making that noise, not sure what this is.

anyhow, sync'd the Dks and there's no difference, but that's before i sprayed the intake , so now i know at least that the intake is leaking, there may or may not be other issues, but i suspect once i get the intake sealed up it'll be fixed. keeping fingers crossed.

[shogun]

The gaskets are so thick in diamter, if they are not broken, just seal them again with liquid seal, Hylomar or such stuff.
No need to buy new ones. I made that already on several cars.

Make one more try:
let the engine run and the pull at the intakes up and push them down.
There are some rubber supports which might also be too old and that also has an effect on air leaks.
If the RPM changes now too without brake cleaner, then you are sure that the intakes are not sealed properly.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/291124
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/V1...ughIdleFix.htm

[v8killer]

Make one more try:
let the engine run and the pull at the intakes up and push them down.
There are some rubber supports which might also be too old and that also has an effect on air leaks.
If the RPM changes now too without brake cleaner, then you are sure that the intakes are not sealed properly.

Just went out and did this, sure enough, RPM changed when i pushed down on intake, it's not sealed. didn't notice much of a difference when i pushed down on passenger side intake (which goes to bank 2 the drivers side) but pushing down on driver's side intake (passenger side engine bank) huge RPM change.

it's a very DIY job, but not outside and in this cold, if i had a garage or a shop i'd tackle it no problem, but now i gotta find a shop competent enough who can actually seal the intake once and for all. i had studied those link you posted about a month ago, very informative, but on sean and john's page they use RTV instead of this blue stuff this shop used(i guess it's supposed to be some sort of silicone based material that doesn't actually stick to the intake or the gaskets but rather conform to the whatever shape that presses against it and seals it, or not in my case), might just have them use RTV and get it over with instead of this fancy stuff.

[APCR]

Mine happened to be all the rubber parts as i foresaw not just the intake boot I had to replace the hoses, 8mm vacuum hoses, and now idle impression "is the car turned on?". Oh yes another problem somehow 2 of my injectors were unplugged, don't ask why because i have no idea. Now the car will respond correctly and the idle rpm when cold start is 900 and the normal idle is 650 which i consider to be ok also i replaced the VCV valves somehow they were moving oil into the air intake and having oil burn in the engine. Now no engine oil burning and smooth acceleration and smooth everything. Thanks for the help.

[shogun]

So, sounds good, everybody happy.
Here some info on Hylomar
http://www.valco-cp.com/Hylomar.htm
and here the Loctite stuff
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...2&autoview=sku
https://www.hanessupply.com/store/pr...121&prodid=999