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Thread: Looking for a 12V switched wire...

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Looking for a 12V switched wire...

    preferably in the glovebox area since it is out. The telephone harness that most people pull power from is being used for my phone car kit and Ipod. I think added another device would be too much for that harness.

    Has anyone tapped into a different 12V switched wire to power their V1 or other device?
    -Phil

  2. #2
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    use a wire tester on the power sources (i've usually seen them in red/white) please don't poke into the wires with it, but rather see if you can just touch it to connectors. you can also test for ingitioned sources by switching the key on and off if you've found a power source (the light on the tester with obviously turn on and off)... i usually don't like tapping sources without knowing what the wire is powering though. i would try to source a good wire schematic before just tapping, the last thing you wanna tap into is ecu wiring or something...

  3. #3
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    Going from memory (kinda scary, isn't it) I think anything green is switched; solid green would feed a circuit and green with a trace color would be to/from a device.

    Or is it the Healey that's green...

    Phil, send me an E-mail and I can help you once and for all (just make sure you give me your car's model year).

  4. #4
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    Bimmerracer007, I don't have a volt meter but I guess it's about time I pick one up.

    Randy, Pm'd sent.

    Lot of wires here but I'm not sure if I want to touch any of them.
    -Phil

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    z4 35i dkg
    i used the switched power from my radio for my radar
    2009 Z4 35i DKG
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    2000m roadster R.I.P.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000m View Post
    i used the switched power from my radio for my radar
    I was thinking about that but might just go with the harness for the alarm.
    thanks
    -Phil

  7. #7
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    Green is hot in Run and Start
    Green, White stripe is Run only
    Black Green stripe is Start
    Violet is Start, Run, and Accessory
    Red, White stripe is +12v relay switched by the ECM
    White, violet strip is dashboard light 0 to +12v (headlight switch dimmer)

    Brown is always ground
    Brown with a stripe is a switched or ohm modified ground.


    This info is from a 99 diagram but I believe the colors did not change from year to year on the z.

    Hope this helps
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Green is hot in Run and Start
    Green, White stripe is Run only
    Black Green stripe is Start
    Violet is Start, Run, and Accessory
    Red, White stripe is +12v relay switched by the ECM
    White, violet strip is dashboard light 0 to +12v (headlight switch dimmer)

    Brown is always ground
    Brown with a stripe is a switched or ohm modified ground.


    This info is from a 99 diagram but I believe the colors did not change from year to year on the z.

    Hope this helps
    thanks. i haven't really pulled the z apart for wiring yet (thank God)

    a light tester isn't nearly as expensive or as fancy as a volt meter... i believe i paid $5 for mine

    i can't post links so finish it off with the w w w.
    stu-offroad.com/electrical/testlight/tlight-1.jpg

  9. #9
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    My glovebox has been out for over a month. I decided to take care of all the wiring stuff all at once. Glovebox fix, V1, Ipod, Cell phone & TP.

    Btw, the 2nd pin in the alarm harness is the switched wire.
    (1st pin Constant, 2nd Switched & 3rd Ground)
    -Phil

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z-Thrizzle View Post
    My glovebox has been out for over a month. I decided to take care of all the wiring stuff all at once. Glovebox fix, V1, Ipod, Cell phone & TP.

    Btw, the 2nd pin in the alarm harness is the switched wire.
    (1st pin Constant, 2nd Switched & 3rd Ground)
    Gee, how'd you figure that out?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Gee, how'd you figure that out?
    From here maybe http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/book/scheme.html
    phrider
    2001 Titanium Silver M Roadster with hardtop
    1998 Titanium Silver E36 M3 Coupe
    Former cars: Saab 900 Turbo, Rabbit, 1967 Chevy II, 1951 Packard Ultramatic Coupe (0-60 in under 0.3 minutes)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Gee, how'd you figure that out?
    Credit is due...thanks Randy
    -Phil

  13. #13
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    A different solution

    I've only had my Z3M for 2 weeks, so I can't offer Z3-specific advice, but I used a Painless 7 CirKit Boss to add utility circuits to my Jeep Wrangler. This device adds 3 always-on and 4 switched circuits to the vehicle without adding any load to existing circuits. I used them to power radios, seat heaters, additional 12V outlets and a couple of Jeep-specific applications.

    This is my first post , so I can't post URLs, but you can find these products by searching for 'Painless CirKit Boss' or by pasting this string in your browser:

    painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/2007Catalog/catview.php?SearchField=14

    I already know I want to add power to the Z3's center console and will probably use a 3-circuit unit such as the 70103 or 70203 depending on how convenient it is to pass cabling through the firewall. The difference is that the 203 is weather proof for mounting in the engine compartment.

    Dan

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RubiDan View Post
    I've only had my Z3M for 2 weeks, so I can't offer Z3-specific advice, but I used a Painless 7 CirKit Boss to add utility circuits to my Jeep Wrangler. This device adds 3 always-on and 4 switched circuits to the vehicle without adding any load to existing circuits. I used them to power radios, seat heaters, additional 12V outlets and a couple of Jeep-specific applications.

    This is my first post , so I can't post URLs, but you can find these products by searching for 'Painless CirKit Boss' or by pasting this string in your browser:

    painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/2007Catalog/catview.php?SearchField=14

    I already know I want to add power to the Z3's center console and will probably use a 3-circuit unit such as the 70103 or 70203 depending on how convenient it is to pass cabling through the firewall. The difference is that the 203 is weather proof for mounting in the engine compartment.

    Dan
    That sounds good. I know it can be done but I don't think going through the firewall is that easy.
    Thanks for the link. I might get one of those if I add projectors and an electric fan.
    -Phil

  15. #15
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    If I find it difficult to penetrate the firewall, I will mount the fuse block in the cabin. Then I will only need to run one wire out to the engine compartment. I'm so new, I just realized as I was writing this that the battery is in the trunk, and I could mount the block in there. It should be simple to run my circuits into the console from there. The only other requirement is a connection to a switched circuit that can be used to energize the relay that turns the swiched side of the block on.

    Dan

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