Attn: newbies,here are your OIL FACTS

[slim17265]

maybe this will help stop all the; new OIL posts for awhile:new BMW's require synthetic. As far as weight, only certain production dates of M3's and M5's require the use of Castrol TWS 10w-60.

2) The Factory BMW Synth 5w-30 is a version of Castrol TXT Softect sold overseas. A few important things about the BMW oil a) it is a Group III hydrocracked oil which cannot be called synthetic in Europe, b) it is a heavy 30 weight (30 weight can run from 9.3-12.5cst@100c, the BMW oil is about 12.2cst), c) it is a ACEA A3 oil which means that it is approved for longer change intervals and has a HTHS (High Tempurature High Shear) measured at 150c of greater than 3.5.

3) In the US, the only Group IV PAO Synthetics that are available are 1) Mobil 1, 2) Amsoil (but not the Xl-7500), 3) Royal Purple, and 4) German Castrol 0w-30 (it has the red label and says on the back, "Made in Germany). Redline is a Group V PolyEster based oil. All other Castrol, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline "synthetics" are a Group III hydrocracked oil. It is debated how much better Group IV base oils are than group III, but generally they are considered better.

4) When looking for oil for any BMW that does not require Castrol TWS 10w-60, you want to purchase an oil that has either/both of the following ratings, a) ACEA A3, or b) BMW LL-98 or LL-01.

5) Note that Mobil 1 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 are NOT ACEA A3 or BMW LL approved oils. This is because they all are thin 30 weight oils (approximately 9.8-10 CST@ 100c) and have HTHS of approximately 3.1. Mobil 1 0w-40 and 15w-50 are A3 rated and the Ow-40 is BMW LL-01 approved. For 99% of climates and users 0w-40 or 5w-40 is the appropriate grade. There are some 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils (like the BMW 5w-30) that are forumlated on the heavier end of the 30 weight scale and are accordingly rated A3. These oils will work well also. LOOK FOR THAT ACEA A3 rating. If the oil doesn't have it, pass on it.

6) Some people seem confused about how oil thickness is measured. The first number (0W, 5w, 10w, 15w, etc) is a measurement of how thick the oil is at tempuratures of -35c- -20c (depends on the grade). The lower this first number the thinner the oil is at LOW tempuratures. The second number (30, 40, 50) refers to oil thickness at 100c (operating tempurature). 30 weight can be from 9.3-12.5 cst, 40 weight from 12.6-16.2 cst, 50 weight from 16.3-22cst (approximate). So you can have two oils, one called a 5w-30 (i.e. bmw oil) another 0w-40 (Mobil 1) that are very similar thicknesses at operating tempurature. Compare this to Mobil 1 Xw-30 which is close to a 20 weight oil at 100c. For more information here is a link with exact numbers

7) BMW's recommended interval of 12,000-15,000 miles is to long. Used oil analysis has shown the BMW oil is generally depleted at 10,000 miles. Running it longer results in excess wear. It is highly recommended that you change your oil once between each BMW recommended interval (approx 7000-7500 miles). If you want to run your oil the BMW recommended interval, I would suggest that you use Mobil 1 0w-40 or Amsoil 5w-40 and change the oil filter at 7500 miles. I would encourage a full oil change at 7500 if you want your engine to last.

8) If you want to spend a few hours learning about oil, go to bobistheoilguy.com

Cary
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but its like a different language.... so which one do you suggest if you were going to change your oil?


Unless you have an M3, in the following order:

1) Mobil 1 0w-40,
2) Mobil 1 0w-40, and
3) Mobil 1 0w-40

If you can't find the 0w-40, the Mobil 1 SUV 5w-40 is a great oil. Can't find either of these, then go to your dealer and get the BMW 5w-30.

The Mobil 1 0w-40 is a great oil, widely available (Walmart, Checker, Kragen, Autozone), and moderately priced. It is factory fill in Mercedes AMG, Porsche, and Austin Martin.

Cary

[Jetblack95]

just keep this one at the top and call it a day!

[Jontran8]

What about m3's?

[Jetblack95]

Originally Posted by Jontran8

What about m3's?

no offence, we love your cars, but there is an M3 section.

[slim17265]

think Castrol TWS 10w-60 is made in Germany, this means it is group IV??
Thanks for the great info!

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Is the Mobil 1 0w-40 good for the occasional autocross or track day, especially in the warmer summer months?
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yeah so basically, use the m1 0w-40 like me
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So is BMWs own recommendation of Castrol Synthetic oil rubbish?

In reference to the Above Comments:

1) The TWS 10w-60 is a very specific oil and likely a Group IV/V blend. The reason that BMW specifically recommends and imports it is there is no equivilant oil in the US. In Europe, Shell & a few others make an equivilant 10w-60.

2) For Autocrossing and Lapping on Hot Days. For autocrossing, the 0w-40 is fine as you do not see high sustained oil temps. For lapping days, you may want to consider 15w-50 as you will high sustained oil temps.

3) The BMW 5w-30 Synthetic. This is a good oil at a fair price ($4.00). Mobil 1 0w-40 is a better oil, especially for longer change intervals. The problem is the combo of the BMW oil and 15,000 mile oil changes is not a good one.

4) A note concerning Mobil 1 5w-40 SUV oil. I know that somebody is going to go to buy this and say "hey it doesn't say ACEA A3 on the back." They are correct. The 5w-40 oil repackaged Mobil Delvac 1, a Synthetic Heavy Duty Engine oil originally designed for trucks and fleet vehicles. This oil is slightly heavier than the 0w-40 and has an HTHS of 4.1. It meets ACEA E3,4 & 5 which are diesal requirements but still require an HTHS of greater than 3.5.

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I have been crusing through this site and noticed there is a lot of misinformation and confusion about oil. Here are a few things you should know about oil for BMW's:

1)As far as weight, only certain production dates of M3's and M5's require the use of Castrol TWS 10w-60.

[Jontran8]

Originally Posted by Jetblack95

no offence, we love your cars, but there is an M3 section.

Thanks for the love. But last I checked e36 m3 is still an e36, no?

[uncle]

That is all very good information. Based upon these reccomendations, you can also buy WalMarts House Brand Full Synthetic oil (5 Qts for $12.50) in the 5-30 or 10-30 weights. They both are ACEA A3, have Viscosity ratings at 100c of 10.3, HTHS of 2.92 and 3.12. Pour Points, viscosity indexes, etc., are all comparable. They meet ILSAC GF-3, API SL/CF, and Viper and Corvette specs also.
Use this stuff, save some money, treat your car to 7500 mile oil changes, and you will drive a long time without engine problems.
Very slippery also.

[RamGoat]

I use:

10w40 synthetic blend in my OBD1 e36 6cylinder 6.9 quarts w/o oil filter

No problems at all in fact, I have to change the oil today

[jrtcbmw]

very good information. and useful.

I use royal purple and change the oil every 3000-5000miles.

[slim17265]

changing your oil is a good thing. I read some people like to make a marathon out of it with questions like can I wait until 15000 miles, 20000 miles? think about this ...your OIL filter can only take out dirt,grit, blackened oil from blowby in something like 11 microns.....that means for you people that think you are getting your "MONEYS WORTH" out of your expensive oil are actually running this oil with some grit that measure 10 microns or less...can you say worn out connecting rod bearings?....OIL is CHEAP....its your choice

[Justin e36]

Originally Posted by 97silver328is

I use royal purple and change the oil every 3000-5000miles.

You sir, made a good choice.
Royal Purple is awesome, I run that in the 540i. In my 318i I'm not quite as picky but I wouldn't drop to Mobil1 territory anymore, Lubromoly now.

[Jetblack95]

Originally Posted by slim17265

changing your oil is a good thing. I read some people like to make a marathon out of it with questions like can I wait until 15000 miles, 20000 miles? think about this ...your OIL filter can only take out dirt,grit, blackened oil from blowby in something like 11 microns.....that means for you people that think you are getting your "MONEYS WORTH" out of your expensive oil are actually running this oil with some grit that measure 10 microns or less...can you say worn out connecting rod bearings?....OIL is CHEAP....its your choice

call me stupid but this post really didn't make sence to me. mainly the part that the filter will only get stuff thats 11 microns and larger, yet the grit we have is 10 microns? did i read that right?

[Dark Helmet]

IIRC the US-available Castrol Syntec 5-30 IS an ACEA3 oil, and I and others have used it well in the M50 motors...

in fact, I was VERY happy during what was effectively a 1500 miles track weekend with a fresh change of castrol in a friends 95 M3...

the best part??? the BMW 5-30 is cheaper than castrol... so just get the BMW stuff.

I run Castrol GTX dinosaur oil in the M42... 10-40 in the winter, 20-50 in the summer.

[slim17265]

maybe it will make more sense if you can visualize a filter orfice of 11 microns in diameter everything smaller than 11 microns go through to wear out your bearings.

[BMDub325is]

I am on 10w 30/40 Castrol Syntec Blend every 5K. Am considering going to the German Castrol 5W 30 every 7.5k though.

[bambamIS]

I absolutely love German Castrol (the green stuff). I run it in all my motors that I've built for honda's over the years. I'm just starting to get into the BMW stuff. I'd like to run the GC in my E36 non-M3. Is this a good oil to run? I'm not concerned with costs at all. I run this oil in my built Honda race motors and change it every 400-500 miles...so as you can see, cost isn't an issue.
BTW....REAL German Castrol only comes in 0w-30, not 5w-30 (for the post above me). The kind you want to shop for is green in color and you have to read the code on the bottom of the bottle to get the real stuff. You can find out which codes to look for on bobistheoilguy.com. Absolutely the best oil site ever....I found that place years ago, and have sworn against GC since then.

[Jetblack95]

Originally Posted by slim17265

maybe it will make more sense if you can visualize a filter orfice of 11 microns in diameter everything smaller than 11 microns go through to wear out your bearings.

so then it isn't so much the oil that we need to worry about but the filter. any recomendations in that area?

[ERICKBOTIC]

so what should i use for my 318? 0w 40 mobil 1 is good?

[DrTweak92325i]

Originally Posted by Jontran8

Thanks for the love. But last I checked e36 m3 is still an e36, no?

e36 is just a chassie name...the engine (s50 or s52) is different and bigger then then normal 3 series (m50 or the m52) engine...

and i do use castrol...but not sure what weight...my dad gets it so yea...but when i start getting the oil myself i'll know what to get...I dont think he gets me the greatest because my car is so old and he hogs the mobile oil all to him self and his WRX...so yea...lol

[guinness325i]

Originally Posted by bambamIS

I absolutely love German Castrol (the green stuff). I run it in all my motors that I've built for honda's over the years. I'm just starting to get into the BMW stuff. I'd like to run the GC in my E36 non-M3. Is this a good oil to run? I'm not concerned with costs at all. I run this oil in my built Honda race motors and change it every 400-500 miles...so as you can see, cost isn't an issue.
BTW....REAL German Castrol only comes in 0w-30, not 5w-30 (for the post above me). The kind you want to shop for is green in color and you have to read the code on the bottom of the bottle to get the real stuff. You can find out which codes to look for on bobistheoilguy.com. Absolutely the best oil site ever....I found that place years ago, and have sworn against GC since then.

Which is it, love it or sworn against it?

[Vanos01]

I'm not disputting anything you said as I think it's great informative experience.

I thought I just chime in with my experience/etc.

I use Mobil 1 15-40. I go around 10K between changes with a new filter around 5K and see no oil degradation. I know this because i have sent samples off to Blackstone labs and they show that the oil is still well within "normal wear" of viscosity, metal percentage, weight, etc. and even said I could probably go another 2-3K but I like the ease and round # of changing every 10K.

I feel very confident in going 10K between oil changes WITH an oil filter though too around 5K. This of course is all personal peference as I know some people change at 3k religiously even when the have synthetic. To each thier own.

car just turned 110K and runs very, very strong. Actually an oil change is planned for this weekend.

[Green318is]

I am using Mobil 1 5W50 in my 318is (M42). In the past I used Mobil 1 15W50and Castrol Synthetic.

My car doesn't seem to like Mobil 1 5W50. I am experiencing some oil consumption with it (3/4 quart after 3500 miles), which I didn't have with other oils and, from time to time, I have this annoying lifter noise when I start the car in the morning, especially if oil is starting to get low. My car has only 35000 miles, no leaks and perfect conditions. I have hot weather all year where I am.

Why is this happening?

[bambamIS]

Originally Posted by guinness325i

Which is it, love it or sworn against it?

WTF? That's wierd....well whatever I wrote I DID mean that I swear by GC, meaning I love it and would make babies with it if I could.

[dephisis101]

wow...maybe i should chill with the paranoia....i change my oil every month. My 325is - every 16th
318is - 25th ( well i dont drive it anymore so i havnt done it in a month)

[LUSTR]

^^that's nuts... i change change filter every 2000-2500 and oil every 4000-5000 mobil 1 0w-40 in winter, pentosynth or M1 5w-40 the rest of the year