Turbo Project Update (negatory 56k...pics)

[jrcook320]

Here's an update on the latest progress on the project. I'm so close I can taste it, been staying up all night working on it only getting 4 hours sleep a night all week.

All that's left now is a pressure regulator, frequency valve, fuel supply and return lines, stand alone knock sensor, and throttle cable and I'll be in the test and tune phase where I get to see where the stock clutch starts slipping.

[jrcook320]

[jrcook320]

[jrcook320]

[jrcook320]

[jrcook320]

[MAD LIL E21]

thats awsome
so how hard is it to mod k-jet ofr boost? you think it is possible in a 323i
got any basic schematics of all the pipe work?
cant work out what your doing on the k-jet with the intake muffler side
and with the brake boost piping.

[good & tight]

Nice and clean, how much boost you plan to run?

[blitzed310]

Im all excited and I'll never get to see this in person. I wouldnt expect anything less from you Josh. Great pixs.

You do have OCD right?

IF you ever come across a set of SS braided lines please let me know.

[waferman]

You are really doing this thing right. How did you get the manifold paint to look so deep? It looks like bascoat/clearcoat! Is it rattle can?

Also, is that an E30 M3 starter? I ask because I noticed that you connected the clip to the top spade, and on my (normal) starter thats the wrong one...
John

[jrcook320]

thats awsome
so how hard is it to mod k-jet ofr boost? you think it is possible in a 323i
got any basic schematics of all the pipe work?
cant work out what your doing on the k-jet with the intake muffler side
and with the brake boost piping.

I'm sure all the factory parts are all out there. You'll probably need a 911 turbo air flow meter and fuel distributor, a boost retard ignition canister from a volvo, and an audi 5000s WUR to enrich the mixture on boost (it has a boost port and a secondary spring on a diaphram). I'm running a downdraft porsche 931 air flow meter, a volvo 250 turbo fuel distributor, the ignition retard canister and boost enrich WUR. Here's a before paint pic of the ignition canister next to stock:



You can see I've drilled holes in the WUR. This is the make it externally adjustable, which I would think is a necessity.






You'll also need a fuel pressure gage to tune things. I will have mine permanately mounted on the side of the air flow meter just above my frequency valve.

I'll post the schematics I've drawn up at some point when I get a chance to scan them in, but since its a downdraft air flow meter I'm running through the opposite way. Here's the air filter setup:





From there it goes into the inlet of the turbo:





The hot boost pipe runs under the engine mount and over the subframe with just enough clearance. The cold boost pipe is easy to see from the other pics. I had to use a 2 to 3" transition to step up to the diameter of the throttle body (yes, it's almost 3".. haha).

Nice and clean, how much boost you plan to run?

I'm hoping to be able to supply enough fuel for 10-12 psi.

Im all excited and I'll never get to see this in person. I wouldnt expect anything less from you Josh. Great pixs.

You do have OCD right?

IF you ever come across a set of SS braided lines please let me know.

Thanks. I think I do have OCD. My car is sooo dirty from sitting in the garage all summer I can't stand it. I can't wait to jack in up in the driveway with a bottle of simple green and a scrub brush to detail the undercarriage. It used to be spottless... The bain of a daily driver, I guess.

The fuel lines I have don't fit quite like I want, but the guys at the VW shop where I got mine told me there is a shop in OH that sells all the stuff you need to crimp your own. I may look into that someday but for now I'm cutting corners to get this thing on the road. There was a set on ebay a while back. You could also get on VWvortex to look in the classifieds.

You are really doing this thing right. How did you get the manifold paint to look so deep? It looks like bascoat/clearcoat! Is it rattle can?

Also, is that an E30 M3 starter? I ask because I noticed that you connected the clip to the top spade, and on my (normal) starter thats the wrong one...
John

I ground all the casting lines and as many imperfections off of the manifold before paint. It's just duplicolor rattle can with engine enamel clear coat.





It's a standard starter. Maybe I have it hooked up wrong, but my wiring harness had 2 black w/ yellow stripe wires that were connected to each other (one from the cold start injector retrofit piggybacked with a scotch lock onto the engine wiring harness) and then connected to both terminals so I assumed they were the same. I got rid of the scotch lock, soldered things together and just ran it to one terminal. Maybe I'll have to switch it.

[MAD LIL E21]

thanks for the info
this thing is gunna be nuts when running
i see now how easy turbo k-jet is..but would love to see the diagrams of it
i am going to find out how to go about this on a M20 now...

[Cerpin TaxT]

my god josh that thing is going to be a monster. i honestly cannot wait to see the finished product.

[JDB]

Damm josh,
You need a 12 step meeting!!
That is a very well thought out project. I am intrigued by the way your WUR adjustment will work, Are you limiting the diaphram movment ??
And the adjustable boost knob under the hood..Thats just cool.

A true BMW propeller head like myself!!

I don't know many that are still tweeking KJET for real anymore.
It is a labor of love, to fat to lean adjust some and then some more..
I found the wide band 0-2 controler to be a real good investment.
even though I still run to fat at the top end..On the dyno it seems to make the best power for me, my car is N.A. but wicked none the less.

Thanks for the update, and NICE WORK!!
Jeff

[cheechthechi]

Very nice!

[EFreak]

Just the way i would have done it

Seriously nice job man!!!!

This all makes me wonder where the hell atilla went and what the progress is with JBOB......

[jrcook320]

Damm josh,
You need a 12 step meeting!!
That is a very well thought out project. I am intrigued by the way your WUR adjustment will work, Are you limiting the diaphram movment ??
And the adjustable boost knob under the hood..Thats just cool.

A true BMW propeller head like myself!!

I don't know many that are still tweeking KJET for real anymore.
It is a labor of love, to fat to lean adjust some and then some more..
I found the wide band 0-2 controler to be a real good investment.
even though I still run to fat at the top end..On the dyno it seems to make the best power for me, my car is N.A. but wicked none the less.

Thanks for the update, and NICE WORK!!
Jeff

Thanks man, that means alot coming from you, I love your 323i. The WUR adjustment is done by moving the valve body and bimetallic spring to adjust warm and cold pressures independantly. The first time I tuned a wur it was unmodified and I had to take the thing off and apart about 10-15 times before I got it where I wanted. With this you just tap with a hammer to raise warm pressure (or lower cold pressure) and the screws allow me to pull things back out if I go too far. The boost enrichment won't be adjustable, but it was designed for a 4cyl turbo car so it should do the job, as long as I go a little rich at boost I should be fine. As of right now I'll be tuning on a narrow band and using a stand alone knock sensor for safety (just a warning light). Here's a diagram I drew up of the WUR:

[JDB]

That is a pretty slick way to make quick presure adjustments..I like!!
Having to take things all apart is a drag.

Do you have a adjustable stop at the bottom of the WUR that limits the amount of travel of the diaphram ? i.e. The amount of control presure drop...

I have the PLX R-500 and having the wide band info and data loging has proved to be very slick for me, I could not tell how rich with the narrow band..it would not show a difference between 14.1 and 11.0!!
And being able to go back and look at the info rather than watching while accelerating like hell, well you get the picture.

Again Josh, Very nice job.
Jeff

[jrcook320]

Thanks for all the compliments guys.

Jeff, things are just about complete now and I hope to be tuning my pressures in this week and trying to start it for the first time. I'm going to keep my system pressure on the high side to maximize flow (my pump will probably be the constraint, but we'll see). I'm wondering if you can give me some suggestion on where to start for cold and warm control pressure?

I know the pressures for the stock 320i, but since I'm running stuff from another car I assume that doesn't count for a hill of beans anymore, or am I wrong? Should I try to set control pressure at the volvo specs since I'm running a volvo FD? Or am I going to have to go totally blind and by a narrow band O2 and by seat of the pants?

[good & tight]

Please get a wideband 02 sensor, the narrow band is not as accurate. You gone through all the time to make an amazing project, tuning it the right way by knowing exacty how rich or lean it is, makes it 100 times more rewarding plus will save you headaches and money.

[JDB]

Josh,
I think it will all be a new tunning process. I am getting my best dyno # running to rich with KJET. But the way it pulls the sensor plate with the low "no vacuum" presure is what makes the best power for me with KJET.
All the "rules" about best AFR for power with KJET do not apply. My H.P. is in the toilet if I run at 13.8 at full throttle.

I am not working with boost so it is a bit different but I am at 34psi without vac. and 56 with vac. And that is with my current AFM/Fuel dist.
When I used the stock 323 or a Porshe 3.0SC all the presures changed.

You will get your cruising AFR right and decell should just be lean with the narrow band but your "under boost" AFR will be a total guess. My narrow feedback meter went full rich at 14.2, so after that ????

But make no mistake about how fat you can get the system to go. I can run down to 10.5 AFR and my pump is suppling just fine..6 cyl. same pump you have, and I am making 220 H.P at the flywheel right now, N.A.

You are going to have the time of your life getting your beast dialed in!!
It is part of why we do it...

Jeff

[jrcook320]

Please get a wideband 02 sensor, the narrow band is not as accurate. You gone through all the time to make an amazing project, tuning it the right way by knowing exacty how rich or lean it is, makes it 100 times more rewarding plus will save you headaches and money.

Wanna sell me yours for $100? I know its the way to go and will look into it, but if I can get the car running right without it I'd rather spend my next $400 on a clutch that will hold the power.


Jeff, pretty interesting stuff... I wonder why it likes it so rich? It's good to know the pump will support 220hp, that was a concern of mine. Does the 323i WUR have 2 ports, one as a vent? Mine has a small barbed port for a vacuum line, but when I apply compressed air the diaphram doesn't move. The other port is much larger with no barb on the end, but when I apply pressure here it moves down which would decrease control pressure as it should under boost. So when you adjusted your pressure with vacuum were you at idle? I always did my pressure with the car off and fuel pump jumped, but the 320i didn't have a vacuum port (remember we have a frequency valve and a WOT enrichment switch, both of which I'll be using). I didn't disassemble the lower diaphram assembly when I cleaned my WUR so I have no idea whats going on in there. Do I use both ports somehow or just the larger one? I'll have to clamp that thing pretty good to get a line to hang on under boost.

[bimmerguy320]

wow do you every know your shit, this is something I really want to do in the future but have absolutely no idea on how about doing it, but these posts help.

[JDB]

323i has a port at the top, for a 8mm vac. hose and a vent in the bottom,
but like you say it is doing a different job, but same execution.

I would think then that your vent is on the top.
I don't know what the 3rd. port does.

I set my pres. with the engine running becouse I need it right with the low vac. I have from the cam. The regulators do funny things as vac. builds, Pres. is LESS with 20" than it is at 10".
Not what I want for my case but all the ones I have built do that a little.

In the bottom of the WUR housing is a stop the limits the fuel presure drop by limiting the diaph. I use that to set the full throttle presure. Then there is a allen screw (in the middle of the diaph.) to push the inner spring up or down.
I use that screw to set my idle/cruise presure.

I am thinking I need stand alone though, I am tired of loosing perf. and milage from the KJET, and I guess I might move on. I did a piggy back Motronic system with MAF sensor a year ago and it solved some issues but had others,
AND I need 6 throttles
Jeff

[good & tight]

You could also tune it on the dyno using there wideband. Most places charge $100 an hour and you can get at least 15 pulls in that time frame.
Clutch wont last long for sure