could there be ANY truth to the no solder stance?
I didnt believe it either, but..... according to a few sites on the net, it appears that some models of O2 sensors compare the pipe air with air that comes through the connector....
i searched manufacturers websites and didnt find anything about it specifically, but i did notice very elaborate connnectors that were water and etc proof. maybe there was (at one time something to this) maybe not.
i would offer this.. you can find crimping connectors that contain solder in the crimp and those would affect this as well, so i think this may not be true.
just to be sure, if you get the bosch universal O2 sensor, they have a very effective connector that makes this point moot.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/NR/rdo...nectSystem.pdf
you can solder or crimp the wires, no problem.
Mekram, I responded to your PM
this is official by my BMW dealership as the way to install the 02...
this is the way I set up the wires
Red on the car to White on the plug.
White on the car to white on the plug.
Black on the car to Black on the plug.
Yellow on the car to Grey on the plug.
Carl
Looking for: E39 touring manual
Sold: '97 Z3 w/2.8l + 5spd
OK GUYS, I am in need of 4 sensors at $145 each at dealer NO WAY...
I have an 01 330 Ci? Should I try this will it work on my car, because I haven't see any e46 listed here.
-Thanks
2001 BMW 330Ci - Picked up 12/9/2007
In Progress:
Sports Package - Premium Package - Cold Weather Package.
Needs:
4 Shocks/Struts - 2 Front Rotors - Pads All Round - 4 New Tires
Plans:
Change Rear Bumper - Possible 3.91 Diff
Search this guys ebay store, he has them for E46's and most every BMW.
http://myworld.ebay.com/global-automotive/
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
what??? the only difference between the econoline, e-bay and oem sensors are what type of connector is on there, other than that they are the same spec o2 sensor, i.e., same physical dimensions and same output voltage.
and to the other poster re: comparison of outside air, that is wrong. sensor measures absolute o2 level.
I used the econoline sensor and it worked like a charm.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor
The sensor element is a ceramic cylinder plated inside and out with porous platinum electrodes; the whole assembly is protected by a metal gauze. It operates by measuring the difference in oxygen between the exhaust gas and the external air, and generates a voltage or changes its resistance depending on the difference between the two.
No, it isn't, like I said, using a sensor other than OEM specific will shunt the CEL because the DME detects fault in the sensors not whether you have the right sensor. The AFR ratio of 14.7:1 is pretty much standard for O2 sensors as well as the 1 volt span. What is engine specific is at what voltage the sensor sends to the DME to tell it that the 14.7:1 ratio is achieved. Is it 0.3 volts for the AFR or is it 0.5 volts...that is the specific tuning.
At the end of the day, run what you want, it's your car, your equipment, your damage.
I find this extremely hard to believe, in fact I don't believe it for 3 reasons.
1. Why would you need to sample outside air to calculate a ratio of exhaust gases.
2. Looking at an O2 sensor I don't see where it can pick up a sample of outside air.
3. If the O2 sensor does in fact sample outside air why are most of them underneath the car where the sample and or sensor can easily become contaminated.
Last edited by black318i; 01-25-2008 at 07:57 PM. Reason: Reason #3
i have an extra 15718 if any wnats want to buy it. hit me up. its brandnew
, that is hilarious sh*t
so it samples the outside air to determine that it is 21% oxygen!!!!
gimme a break!
Edit: damn, time to take my foot out of my mouth, serves me right, oh well learn something new everyday
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.../o2sensor.html
"It is important to remember that the
O2 sensor is comparing the amount of Oxygen inside and outside
the engine. If the outside of the sensor should become blocked,
or coated with oil, sound insulation, undercoating or antifreeze,
(among other things), this comparison is not possible."
Last edited by martin01; 02-05-2008 at 03:01 AM.
This was an easy job to do. I <3 RobertK.
anyone figured anything about the odb2 cars? i have a 328is and would like to do this.
I think they got it wrong here. The O2 sensor reads the oxygen in the exhaust. That is it. The computer may compare that reading with an intake sensor such as a MAF sensor, but I doubt that. The computer will adjust the fuel and spark based on many sensors. The O2 sensor is one of them. With out the O2 sensor the computer is just running on predetermined maps. A bad O2 sensor will let the computer think it's running right when it's not.
Here's the BEST site I've found for what you need in an O2 sensor, with cross-references. Prices however are (thumbs down).
Especially good since it identifies which BMWs use the Titania Sensor.
Site also includes PHOTOS of which wires go to which - when using a universal type sensor! (Look around under wire colors)
http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mindex.htm --or--- LINK
EDIT: Just found this on the Wiki page - which answers the soldering question - at least for me:
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| ||||||||||||In automotive applications the titania sensor, unlike the zirconia sensor, does not require a reference sample of atmospheric air to operate properly.
This makes the sensor assembly easier to design against water contamination.
While most automotive sensors are submersible, zirconia-based sensors require a very small supply of reference air from the atmosphere.
In theory, the sensor wire harness and connector are sealed.
Air that leaches through the wire harness to the sensor is assumed to come from an open point in the harness - usually the ECU which is housed in an enclosed space like the trunk or vehicle interior.
There is valid discussion here about soldering the connections -vs- using a crimp connection.
The site above says solder, but several others say NO solder.
Since I can make a good connection with a crimp + heat-shrink tubing, I'll go with no solder.
Soldered connections may work fine since -- if you notice on their installation page, they suggest cutting toward the middle and making total length of leads equal to original.
If what I've read is correct, the 1/2 length might give enough outside air for sensor to make a comparison. WHO knows??
Here are two spots which say no solder - and why:
(Citation #1)
.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/h...olt_divide.htm
.
You should never solder a O2 sensor wire because the sensor "will breathe" through the cable. The acceptable method of splicing or repairing O2 wiring is with crimp connectors. This information was from Bosch Technical Staff in Europe. Here is the technical description of why you do not solder the connections on the O2 sensor side of the updated wiring.
The outside of the bulb is exposed to the hot gases in the exhaust while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor body to the outside atmosphere. Older style oxygen sensors actually have a small hole in the body shell so air can enter the sensor, but newer style O2 sensors "breathe" through their wire connectors insulation and have no vent hole.
It's hard to believe, but the tiny amount of space between the insulation/wire and through wire insulation provides enough air to seep into the sensor (for this reason, grease should never be used on O2 sensor leads/connectors because it can block the flow of air). Venting the sensor through the wires rather than with a hole in the body reduces the risk of dirt or water contamination that could foul the sensor from the inside and cause it to eventually fail.
.
.
(Citation #2)
.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-18.htm
.
If you are replacing the O2 Sensor with a universal replacement sensor, you'll have to splice the factory connector plug onto the new sensor. Or if you've order a sensor kit which comes with connectors, you'll have to install the connectors which come with the kit onto the new sensor wires. DO NOT solder the connectors onto the wires. They must be crimped on for the O2 sensor to work correctly. For the sensor to work correctly, it must draw clean air down to the sensor through the air gaps in the stranded wire. If you solder the wires, the solder will fill the air gaps in the wire and the sensor will not work correctly.
Do not use any silicon based chemicals that could become exposed to the O2 sensor. Silicon will contaminate the sensor and it will quit working. Many RTV sealants, gasoline additives, and anti-seize compounds contain silicon so, check the label before you use it.
Last edited by Riick; 08-14-2008 at 11:13 AM. Reason: More Info
where were you 2 years ago with this? I ended spending tons of money fixing my O2 problem.
WTB: 17" M3 rims with tires
I went searching for these cross-reference #'s only to spend a half-hour reading all these posts with some questions being asked repetitively, only to find there is little information on the OBDII O2 sensors for those of us with such systems. I still didn't see if anyone had tried the 4-wire sensor on the OBDII cars, but I see that Amazon.com has this particular Universal sensor for only $26.20:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/93-06-750li-750il-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B001JKYSR6/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1226071791&sr =1-18"]http://www.amazon.com/93-06-750li-750il-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B001JKYSR6/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1226071791&sr =1-18[/ame]
Talk about universal! 1993-2006 M3, M5, 740i, 740il, 750i, 750il. I don't see where it mentions 3 or 4-wire, but for the price it may be worth a try.
MOTRSPRT
97 318 vert
98 M3 supercharged
03 M3 SMG
07 M6 V10
2011 Ducati 1198
Has anyone done this on an OBDI car and passed smog? (at least in the USA) The post from the guy in Canada has me a little worried, and I want to know if there are any stories that contradict his...
Sounds familiar. It took me hours to get my old sensor off. Ended up driving it over to a relative's garage and heating the exhaust with a torch--as in glowing red hot.
Some of the old threads fused in so I could only get the new sensor in about 75% of the way. Seems to work just fine though and the CEL went off right away.
Makes me wonder if these could have been cross-threaded in production. Something wasn't right that's for sure.
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