Turbo setup for under $2500? Yes please.

[5mall5nail5]

So everyone says its not possible to make a turbo setup for under $2500 or so... so many people are from the school of $4000...$5000....$6000+ dollars in turbo setup alone! Well, I created this spreadsheet with my motor build cost, turbo build cost, and consumable welding supplies. The turbo build comes in at $2473 if you have welding supplies. Add $153.50 on average for welding materials. Total motor build which is a refresh on a M50 non vanos with ARP studs and VAC MLS .140" gasket, is $712. To build this entire setup, which should support over 500hp if you really wanted to do that, costs around $3,339.07

http://e34.digital7.com/turbobuild.htm

[///M3 CRAZY]

very good! that is the way to do it!

[Robstah]

Nice Jon. I wish I knew about this before I started playing with my 2.9L stroker. Eh. Maybe this fall. Remind me to take a welding class this fall as well.

[5mall5nail5]

Spread sheet shows where the parts are comin from

[Robstah]

Spread sheet shows where the parts are comin from

I saw that. I am debating if I should just order the .140" HG from VAC, because even though half the people on here state that a 11.3:1 compression ratio is achieved through stroking only, there is someone in Japan that has done the stroking himself and is getting close to 12.4:1. Eh. I still have yet to get any of those front crank bolts off. I just can't get the thing to bulge. Any ideas?

Also, I was checking out your main page there, and the day you took the photos, 10/29, is my b-day. Weird.

[5mall5nail5]

that compression is really high... all for .4L bah not worth it.

Is your oil pan off? If so, grab a chunk of wood put it between the counterweight and block near main bearing #1, but not on the bearing mount point, just do the counter weight. Jam it in there so the crank cannot spin an dget a 6' breaker bar and pull.

[trthrrt489]

Any machine work? Throw in some overboar pistons and rods +machine work +non-diy tune, and that number will go through the roof.

[bmwperson]

You can add $80 worth of STOCK rod bolts...

[Robstah]

that compression is really high... all for .4L bah not worth it.

Is your oil pan off? If so, grab a chunk of wood put it between the counterweight and block near main bearing #1, but not on the bearing mount point, just do the counter weight. Jam it in there so the crank cannot spin an dget a 6' breaker bar and pull.

Well, the .4L also gets me around 245rwhp, which is where I want from an NA stand point. Plus, if I keep it under the cost of a used S50/S52, I think I am in the win. I am mainly doing it just to get some experience in building engines more than anything else. I will end up getting lower compression forged pistons later on and turbo'ing it like no other. If my budget was bigger right now, I would go ahead and do it. I will try the counter weight trick with the vanos M50, but I also have two cranks, one being the S50 crank, that has the bolt on it and was removed with the bottom timing cover still attached. Do you think it would be worth it just to stick the other cranks in the block I have and do the same trick?

[bbaz]

Those are some impressive numbers to build a kit with. I'm looking forward to hearing how well your main pieces hold up.

You saved a chunk of change by purchasing a very inexpensive turbo and manifold. If SS autochrome has stepped up their quality, then you might be the guy who helps put them in a reputable view. From what I've read, they have a tendancy to crack and lack proper support. Additionally, $400 Ebay turbos are generally Franken Turbos, and are often put together with faulty cartridges, improper seals, etc.

Much like the sellers who buy Brembo/Zimmerman Blanks and drill them, but sell them as if the were drilled by B/Z.

I wish you the best of luck with your build and tune....

[325icintn]

Proof!

Great list. Thanks for inlcuding the suppliers.

[325icintn]

, $400 Ebay turbos are generally Franken Turbos, and are often put together with faulty cartridges, improper seals, etc.

I wish you the best of luck with your build and tune....

The Holset at $400 will not be an ebay special.

UrineMachine, please post or email your timing/fuel maps (both the ones you are currently using and the final tune).

I really hope we'll start seeing tuning maps shared now that we'll have some real DIY tuning.

[Robstah]

Those are some impressive numbers to build a kit with. I'm looking forward to hearing how well your main pieces hold up.

You saved a chunk of change by purchasing a very inexpensive turbo and manifold. If SS autochrome has stepped up their quality, then you might be the guy who helps put them in a reputable view. From what I've read, they have a tendancy to crack and lack proper support. Additionally, $400 Ebay turbos are generally Franken Turbos, and are often put together with faulty cartridges, improper seals, etc.

Much like the sellers who buy Brembo/Zimmerman Blanks and drill them, but sell them as if the were drilled by B/Z.

I wish you the best of luck with your build and tune....

That would probably be the only thing that I would spend a little more dough on. Mike (Techno) has his manifold going for 450 shipped, which still would leave the setup under 3 grand.

[325icintn]

IC Piping? Don't see it, curious as to source.

[5mall5nail5]

You're right machine work, I forgot to add that. I have a quote for $125 for flex hone, hot tank, and check the head and block for flatness..

[5mall5nail5]

Those are some impressive numbers to build a kit with. I'm looking forward to hearing how well your main pieces hold up.

You saved a chunk of change by purchasing a very inexpensive turbo and manifold. If SS autochrome has stepped up their quality, then you might be the guy who helps put them in a reputable view. From what I've read, they have a tendancy to crack and lack proper support. Additionally, $400 Ebay turbos are generally Franken Turbos, and are often put together with faulty cartridges, improper seals, etc.

Much like the sellers who buy Brembo/Zimmerman Blanks and drill them, but sell them as if the were drilled by B/Z.

I wish you the best of luck with your build and tune....

Its not a "ebay turbo" its a factory sealed brand new Holset H1E that a wholesaler sold on ebay. Its not a "franken" anything...

[5mall5nail5]

Also for the manifold, the welds look pretty good. I have a TIG if I have any crackcing I can repair it. But moreover, I made an up pipe to move the turbo away from the manifold and is braced to the block. Should not be an issue.

[5mall5nail5]

Well, the .4L also gets me around 245rwhp, which is where I want from an NA stand point. Plus, if I keep it under the cost of a used S50/S52, I think I am in the win. I am mainly doing it just to get some experience in building engines more than anything else. I will end up getting lower compression forged pistons later on and turbo'ing it like no other. If my budget was bigger right now, I would go ahead and do it. I will try the counter weight trick with the vanos M50, but I also have two cranks, one being the S50 crank, that has the bolt on it and was removed with the bottom timing cover still attached. Do you think it would be worth it just to stick the other cranks in the block I have and do the same trick?

So the timing cover is on the crank and the crank bolt on the crank and was dropped that way? That's pretty ghetto. Its annoying because you need to mount the crank proper in order to use the wood block trick.

[techno550]

Also for the manifold, the welds look pretty good. I have a TIG if I have any crackcing I can repair it. But moreover, I made an up pipe to move the turbo away from the manifold and is braced to the block. Should not be an issue.

you seem to imply there that the turbo being near the manifold would be a reason for the cracks... and not the manifold being bolted to the head...

if you can find a way to get only ambient temp air to flow through the manifold (no heat based expansion/contraction) and no weight load or vibrations on the manifold it should be fine.

[Robstah]

So the timing cover is on the crank and the crank bolt on the crank and was dropped that way? That's pretty ghetto. Its annoying because you need to mount the crank proper in order to use the wood block trick.

I know. Ghetto.

I am not 100% sure, but I do think the connecting rod bolts are stretch bolts. Also, the "turbo setup for under 2500" is not really logical. You still need to calculate in the amount of time you have spent so far on it and any welding done will probably end up getting done at a shop for a fee. Anyone in your situation however, will be able pull it off. Hopefully the MS setup will become a big success, enough to actually put some competition in the market and drive some of these prices down for all the people who want some more power in their lives. Viva la revolution.

[5mall5nail5]

you seem to imply there that the turbo being near the manifold would be a reason for the cracks... and not the manifold being bolted to the head...

if you can find a way to get only ambient temp air to flow through the manifold (no heat based expansion/contraction) and no weight load or vibrations on the manifold it should be fine.

You've seen the thermal images produced by people, the exhaust housing glows, the manifold is medium. Cast iron retains heat far more than steel, so even when you let the car idle the exhaust housing is still hot from your high temp boosting about 15 mins ago and thus the manifold is still hot. Move the turbo 2' off the manifold and you've got isolation of heat. Additionally, the up pipe is braced to the engine mount, block, and head. I can unbolt the the up pipe from the manifold and it still stays on the engine like it should be.

[and1c]

you seem to imply there that the turbo being near the manifold would be a reason for the cracks... and not the manifold being bolted to the head...

if you can find a way to get only ambient temp air to flow through the manifold (no heat based expansion/contraction) and no weight load or vibrations on the manifold it should be fine.

Agreed

Manifold will definatley be a weak point IMHO......but good luck with the project urine machine....

Does the car actually RUN yet??

[5mall5nail5]

You mean with turbo and all? no I am still building. I am waiting on my oil feed and intercooler pipes.

As for the ecu, yes it runs off the MS ecu

[325icintn]

I am waiting on my oil feed and intercooler pipes.

They were missing from your list. Where are you sourcing, price, and size (since you've been so generous in sharing info)?

Are you going to go straight COP on the new engine? I know it's working fine with the other way, just like a tec3 set-up.

[highboostingm3]

Straight up