DIY Clear Corner Modification

[topgun]

I just completed modifying my Euro Clear Turn Signal Assembies to accept dual filament bulbs (retains both turn signal & parking light operation). It was fairly straight forward & simple:

Supplies needed:

Euro Clear Turn Assemblies from W&N
Old Assemblies from car
2 new dual filament sockets - Conduct Tite model 84725 purchased @ auto parts store (this socket is almost the perfect size)
Soldering supplies
Heat Shrink Wire Tube (I used 3/32" diameter) - this is available in the electrical dept. @ the hardware store.

Steps:

Be sure that you work with the same side assembly. Old Right with New Right. The pin orientation in the plugs is side specific!

1. Clip wires off old assembly. Clip as close to the "connector spades" in the old socket as possible. Remove plug & wires from weather seal.

2. Remove wires from the new weather seal provided with the W&N assembly and poke a third hole in the grommet at the end of the new weather seal (I used a hot coat hanger).

3. Insert wires from plug & wire from old assembly through new weather seal.

4. Remove the metal contacts from the new W&N assembly socket. There are two latches on the underneath side. You will also need to clip the negative contact spades off with a pair of dikes.

5. Place your old bulb in the new Conduct Tite model 84725 socket. This will stabilize the socket and keep it from coming apart while you work with it.

6. Trim the pig tail wires on the Conduct Tite model 84725 socket. You will want the splice to be above the grommet at the end of the new weather seal so you will be clipping the wires approximately 1" to 11/2" below the bottom of the Conduct Tite model 84725 socket - you will actually need to cut a portion of the black plastic protective sleeve on the new socket.

7. Wrap the base of the Conduct Tite model 84725 socket with 2-3 wraps of electrical tape (this will make it fit snuggly) and insert it into the hole in the W&N assembly.

8. Slide a small piece (< 1/2" long) of the Heat Shrink Wire Tube over the end of each wire from the old plug assembly.

9. Twist & solder the wires from the old plug assembly to the wires from the pig tail wires on the Conduct Tite model 84725 socket. Make sure you splice the brown wire from the old plug assembly to the white wire from the pig tail wires on the Conduct Tite model 84725 socket. The other wires don't matter ... either of the black to the grey and the other black to the blue.

10. One at a time, slide the Heat Shrink Wire Tubes down over the splice and heat to shrink the tubing to get a good seal.

11. Reinstall onto car and replace old bulb with a Stealth replacement for the 1157 bulb.

When I proof read this post, the operation looks a whole lot more complicated than it really is. The whole project, including removal & replacement on the car, took right at 1 hour. The actual modification to the light assemblies took about 10 minutes per side. I didn't take any pix - though I am sure that would make the whole process a bit more clear. A friend just ordered a set of W&N Clear Turn Assemblies & has asked me to modify his. When I do, I will try to remember to take some pix.

I now have dual functioning clear turn/parking lights.

[jjgbmw323]

Pics please

[topgun]

"I didn't take any pix - though I am sure that would make the whole process a bit more clear. A friend just ordered a set of W&N Clear Turn Assemblies & has asked me to modify his. When I do, I will try to remember to take some pix."

Really very very easy once you find the right socket. I found the Conduct Tite 84725 on the shelf at the local auto parts store ... though I've got to admit I tried several others before I found one the size I was happy with.

I would suggest going out and getting one of these sockets and trying it. You will be amazed how easy it is.

[blitzed310]

Very nice write-up. Your famous now, I added you to my DIY write-up database.


"Clear" enough where I didnt need pix. You get an A!

[topgun]

Have received a couple of PMs asking where I sourced the Conduct Tite 84725 socket. I purchsed them @ Advance Auto Parts.

I did not use 'crimp connectors' for two reason:

1. The tube section of the weather seal is a bit too tight to accomodate three 'crimp connectors' and still allow the seal to slide freely up the wire. This is important whenyou go to re-install in your car. Getting the grommet on the end of the seal through the hole in the car body is much easier when the seal is pushed down toward the plug.

2. I preferred the neat appearance of the soldered splice covered with the heat shrink tube.

[jbob]

awesome writeup!

what was the final cost for materials?

[topgun]

$4.25 per socket for a total of $8.50. I had the heat shrink tubes but think the cost about $1.50 for a pack of 6 or so.

[Yonkers320is]

pretty good write up, i'll go check Auto Zone for the sockets. Thanks .

[jbob]

cool, yeah I just went to a couple local parts stores....the brand of those sockets is actually Motormite & it's the Conduct Tite line. Checkers (CSK) & autozone carries them. However CSK has a slightly bigger selection.

I'm trying another modification right now, where I add on a 194 bulb & socket to the housing....so the parking light bulb could shine clear (blue, orange, & red bulbs are also readily available) & the turn signal bulb is still orange. Altho, it's $13 in materials so far (I might have to pickup a pack of bullet connectors for the harness)

[M1 #43022]

4. Remove the metal contacts from the new W&N assembly socket. There are two latches on the underneath side. You will also need to clip the negative contact spades off with a pair of dikes.

dang it nice write up!

im afraid I'm fresh outta dikes

[sil0kin]

i put the euro harness in when i did my single 7'' FK(with running city light) (Gti cross hair) lights. front looks awsome with no running light.

[jrcook320]

I used the same method, here are the pics I took:

2 dual filament sockets - Conduct Tite 85803 or 84725 (I used 85803):




Clip wires from the old assembly. Before cutting any wires, take note of wire location and be sure to orient the new socket and bulb in the same way so that you don't get your running lights and turn signals mixed up. I left enough wire attached to the old housing to serve as a reference later. Also, make sure you use the left harness with the new left housing. The plugs are side specific.:



Remove the dust boot, wires and socket ring from the new housing. I decided the keep the original ground terminal:




Poke a 3rd hole through the rubber boot with a heated coat hanger:






Bend the ground tab down into the socket hole so it will contacts the socket once in place and help wedge the socket in place:




Apply JB weld around the socket flange to permanently mount it in the housing:







Solder the ground tab to the socket:




Clean the old wires with laquer thinner to make them look like new again before sliding them into new dust boot. Slide heat shrink tubing onto each wire and solder the wires together, again, taking note of which wire goes to the 5w filament and which goes to the 20w filament:




Heat the tubing up for a weather tight seal.




Bulbs are your choice of silver painted amber or chrome bulbs that flash amber. I used amber bulbs and shot a light coat of silver paint over them. The light is still bright enough to shine through. It's a good idea to coat the bulb base with dielectric grease to keep it from seizing in the socket.