Infamous Radiator Bitch Clip

[RayMan]

Like many other e36 owners, the neck on my rad broke which required replacement of the whole rad. Why weren't these made in aluminum? Anyways, in the process I removing the rad, I was stuck on how to undo the 2 main clips holding down the rad. Searches on the forum gave some help but there was no clear guidelines. After monkeying around a bit, I figured out a solution. Use a small flathead and put it in the slot as shown below (pics A - C). This will disengage the clip. Pic D shows the underside of the clip removed. Hopefully, these pics will help some of you trying to remove this beeotch of a clip.

[jackcass]

Yeah, anyone who has a Bentley manual should have seen that it tells you exactly how to get these off. Just push a flathead in there and pop it up. It took me like 10 seconds on each side. I really don't know how they got that nickname, they are so easy to pop off.

Actually, the Bentley shows you should push the screwdriver in the middle of the clip, and pry up. Pops right off.

[theruss1an1]

I hate those clips!

-Serge

[Roffle Waffle]

I played for about 30 minutes with one clip with no success

[bmslug]

Ha! They kinda look like the clips that secure the fogs

[GardenBeast]

what causes the rad neck to break?? anything I can look for to see it coming?
if said neck breaks, will it take anything else with it?

[Goon]

They're easy as to get off. I just worked it out myself when changing the radiator. It's getting them back on securely that's difficult.

[TheStigg]

what causes the rad neck to break?? anything I can look for to see it coming?
if said neck breaks, will it take anything else with it?

The plastic deteriorates with heat and age. 10 years/140k miles is about when they let loose, sooner in hotter climates. E38 & e39 V-8's are notorious for the neck breaking off without warning much sooner, sometimes as early as 55k-60k. If it fails while driving, the motor will overheat from the coolant loss. Could be catastrophic if not shut off in time but volumes of steam coming out from under the hood and the check engine light flashing & the chime going off should get your attention.

As a preventative maintenance, short of replacing the radiator in advance, take the top hose off & inspect the neck for any signs of cracks. Scoot the hose clamp up a little closer to the radiator to keep from crushing the neck near the end. There should be an internal metal reinforcing ring but it's not totally reliable.

[baghram]

The very first thing I did when I took off my rad, was pop a screwdriver into that slot. Took 2 sec and no manual.
Anyway, good info for the ones who can't seem to remove those clips.

[Furious]

ive broken my share. rush it and they break, they really need the time and care otherwise they snap far too quickly

[David.Dunbar]

Very nice, thanks for the pics and writeup. I have had my new radiator sitting in the garage for a few months waiting for time to swap it out. Today is the day and even my 101 Performance Projects book does not tell exactly how to get them off, he just states that they break often in the process. Very timely for me.

Thanks,

Dunbar

[socialabolition]

can someone post some pics on how to install these clips?? i have them and currently have zip ties holding up my radiator

[darkislight]

I had my upper radiator neck break in 2004. I epoxied (JB Weld) a flared aluminum tube inside the existing cracked neck. The hose clamps when overtightened fatigue the neck along with the engine vibration through the rad hose and cracks the neck. It's been 3 years since the repair was done and have had no problems.

[Calypsocoupe96]

I had my upper radiator neck break in 2004. I epoxied (JB Weld) a flared aluminum tube inside the existing cracked neck. The hose clamps when overtightened fatigue the neck along with the engine vibration through the rad hose and cracks the neck. It's been 3 years since the repair was done and have had no problems.

Damn good idea! Where did you pick up the aluminum tubing? Ace or ? Did they flare it for you too?

[darkislight]

I repair aircraft for a living.

Material is 6061-t6 tubing 1.25" O.D. .020-.035 wall thickness with .250" flare to fit. The wall thickness is not that important as long as its not too thick and restricts the flow.

[baghram]

I had my upper radiator neck break in 2004. I epoxied (JB Weld) a flared aluminum tube inside the existing cracked neck. The hose clamps when overtightened fatigue the neck along with the engine vibration through the rad hose and cracks the neck. It's been 3 years since the repair was done and have had no problems.

When I took out my rad, I noticed someone had done this to mine too Maybe this idea should be stickied, with all the horror stories of cracked necks.

[Riick]

1.25" Copper pipe coupling will work too.
Not as nice and neat, but easily avaialble.

[uclabruins1996]

This crap happen to me yesterday. Glad I didnt get into an accident.
I couldnt find alum tubing at Lowes or Home Depot.
All they had were brass tubing that is chrome plated, Galvanize steel tubing, and copper tubing (but none in the 1.25" dimension).
So I decided to purchase the chrome plated brass tubing and a 1.5" long Gal steel tubing.
Would this be acceptable? How about Corrosion? Chrome plating breaking off? Electrolysis from the Gal steel? Gal steel rusting?

Thanks

[RamGoat]

i buy new ones every time from breaking them in frustration (worth the $4)

[Riick]

This crap happen to me yesterday. Glad I didnt get into an accident.
I couldnt find alum tubing at Lowes or Home Depot.
All they had were brass tubing that is chrome plated, Galvanize steel tubing, and copper tubing (but none in the 1.25" dimension).
So I decided to purchase the chrome plated brass tubing and a 1.5" long Gal steel tubing.
Would this be acceptable? How about Corrosion? Chrome plating breaking off? Electrolysis from the Gal steel? Gal steel rusting?

Thanks

The galvanized will eventually rust -- at the ends.
Might take 10-20 years to eat the whole seciton.

Personally, would't worry about electrolysis - the metal isn't directly connected to any other metals.
If you're concerned, look up which will be eaten-up first, steel, brass, or the AL tubing in the RAD itself, and in the engine block.

BTW......
1-1/4" copper pipe is DRAIN -LINE piping. Can't find at Lowes??
-- go to a plumbing supply house - look in Yelow pages,
or just cage a few inches off a plumber at the supply house.

Me... after playing around, paid $130 and swapped out the flippin' Radiator.

[Hawkman]

Thanks for that photo. I had to see how it works before I understood how to release it.

I'm an old owner of a 98 sedan M3, btw. Great car.

[bimmerguy320]

Ohhh so frustrating, I opened these a long time ago and couldn't remember. As I put the screwdrivers in and pried I saw the bottom lifting out of clip so I thought I was on my way....then SNAP and shattered in pieces. "Pry up" can be interpreted in diff ways. To all who look at this thread and still don't really see how this works...stick a flathead in the two sides and pry your screwdriver up, it then pops up the top of this piece that locks into the rad...do not pry your screwdriver down!...or SNAP

[mjf38Gc]

Just had the radiator replaced and now losing coolant from some where at the base of the engine. There is a lot of coolant on the garage floor Help what gives... I've only driven the car once. I'll get under there tomorrow and have a look.

[freddybeemer100]

Just pry the things up out of the radiator with your fingers and slide 'em to the sides, pull the rad. slide them back when done.
Easy.

[SergeK]

Just had the radiator replaced and now losing coolant from some where at the base of the engine. There is a lot of coolant on the garage floor Help what gives... I've only driven the car once. I'll get under there tomorrow and have a look.

What side of the car? Left? Right? Could be as simple as a loose hose clamp, which it probably is.