To view this article on our webpage, click here.
Proper Washing & Drying
Most of the swirl marks that occur on your vehicle are likely caused by regular washing and drying. Though weekly washes and towel-drying are the best care you can give your vehicle, improper techniques will cause unsightly swirls and scratches in the paint that will require compounding or polishing at the very least. You can prevent these problems and save yourself a lot of extra work by following a few simple tips when washing and drying your vehicle.
Why wash weekly?
Weekly washing is optimal because some contaminants can do serious damage to the paint if they are not removed quickly. One such contaminant is bug splatter. Their bodies contain organic acids that break down the carcass, but they also eat into the clear coat if not removed promptly. Weak spots in the clear coat make your vehicle susceptible to corrosion.
Another problem contaminant is brake dust. It contains metal shavings from the rotors and an adhesive used in the production of brake pads. This makes brake dust highly corrosive and very sticky. Washing your vehicle weekly will remove these contaminants before they have the opportunity to do permanent damage.
Wash Tools
It’s very important to choose tools that are gentle on the paint, yet effective at removing contamination. As a rule of thumb, sponges and mitts that are plush or have a deep nap are better than flat weave towels or dense sponges. For example, a Natural Sea Sponge has numerous deep compartments where dirt and debris can accumulate. The natural fibers themselves will not scratch the paint and they will essentially pull contamination into the sponge’s openings, away from the paint. Always use the softer side of the sponge for washing. Rinse new sea sponges thoroughly before use to remove any shell fragments or sand.
Another option is a Sheepskin Wash Mitt. Sheepskin is extremely soft and plush. The fibers are gentle on the paint while the nap is deep enough to accommodate loose dirt and sand so they do not rub against the vehicle. Because sheepskin is natural, it does not last as long as a synthetic microfiber mitt. However, for luxurious softness, you can’t beat the texture of sheepskin.
Microfiber mitts are another paint-safe option. Microfiber’s combination of polyester and polyamide make it capable of scrubbing the paint without scratching or swirling. It traps dirt and grit within the fibers rather than leaving them on the surface of your vehicle. Be sure to rinse the mitt frequently to release these particles.
Cotton chenille pads and mitts are also good choices because they clean easily and they last longer than sheepskin or natural sea sponges.
Washing
1. Wash the wheels and tires first. If you splash wheel cleaners or dirt onto your vehicle, you can simply wash it off as you wash. Use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels, like Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner. It is water-based and has no corrosive chemicals, which is safer for coated wheels and rubber. Agitate with an OXO or New England Wheel Brush to clean wheels without scratching. Wash each wheel and tire one at a time and rinse thoroughly before moving on to the next one.
2. Now you’re ready to wash. It’s important to use a car wash that is rich in lubricants. The purpose of the car wash is to remove contaminants and lubricate them so they do not scratch the paint as they slide off the vehicle. Dish detergents are not ideal because they remove protective coatings. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo, DP Auto Bath Shampoo and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo are all great choices. They will not remove wax and they provide ample lubrication of gritty particles.
3. Here’s a trick to prevent swirl marks: use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you need to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first to rinse out some of the contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle. Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing.
Another option is the Grit Guard. This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination settles to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.
4. Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top half of the vehicle. Rinse and reload your sponge often to prevent cross-contamination. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.
For stubborn spots, like bugs or tar, use the Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge to gently remove sticky contaminants without scratching. To soften the sponge, soak it in warm water for 3 minutes. Always use it with soapy water to lubricate the sponge. If you choose to use a spot cleaner, spray it on before washing and reapply wax to the treated area after you’ve dried the vehicle.
5. When rinsing, you don’t have to blast your car clean with the water hose. Free-flowing water (no nozzle) will allow the water to sheet off of your vehicle for a more thorough rinsing.
Drying
Never skip drying! Drying your vehicle after washing is necessary to prevent water spots. Water spots are caused by mineral deposits that etch the outline of a drop of water into your vehicle’s paint. All water has minerals, whether it’s from the hose or the sky. As the water evaporates, the minerals remain on the surface and they will eventually, inevitably create water spots.
You can dry your vehicle in a variety of ways, but you want to make sure you do it quickly. The fastest way to remove excess water is with a California Water Blade or California Dry Blade. These are paint-safe squeegees that pull 80% of the water off the surface of your vehicle. They are made of soft, medical-grade silicone so they will not scratch your paint or glass. Use the blade on the windows first, since water spots are most noticeable there.
Even if you use a Water Blade, you still need to use a towel to remove the rest of the water. The Cobra Waffle-Weave Towel is a large microfiber towel that is manufactured with a waffle-weave texture. This weave increases the surface area so the towel can absorb more water. It can absorb 7 times its own weight in moisture, and it’s completely nonabrasive. Microfiber towels come in a number of sizes and they can be altered for a specific purpose. For example, the Cobra Waffle-Weave Glass Towel will clean and dry glass without streaks. Microfiber is more absorbent than terry cloth or chamois, and it lasts longer.
Terry cloth towels are not recommended because the fibers can become matted and hard after repeated uses. They increase the chance of swirls. Compared to microfiber, they are not as absorbent and they don’t last as long. Never use bath towels that have been discarded from the house. They are probably not soft or paint safe.
You may also use a genuine or synthetic chamois. The Prince of Wales Chamois is 100% leather and it’s extremely soft. Its luxurious texture makes it a pleasure to use, but it will not last as long as a synthetic chamois. Do not continue using it after it becomes hard. The Pittards Dry-Soft Chamois is another option. It is real leather, but it dries soft. Chamois are gentle on paint and they are more absorbent than terry cloth.
Drying Tips
1. Dry windows and mirrors first.
2. Use the large Cobra Supreme Waffle Weave Towel to remove the majority of water from your vehicle. This towel measures 20”x 40” and it absorbs seven times its own weight in moisture. Go back over the vehicle with a smaller towel, like the Cobra Waffle Weave Drying Towel (16”x 24”) to catch any water the large towel may have missed. This quick two-step process will leave your vehicle bone-dry and ready for wax.
3. Once the outside is dry, wipe down all your door jambs and sills. Open the trunk and hood to wipe the jambs.
4. Dry your wheels using a towel or chamois that is designated just for this purpose. Don’t use this towel on your paint to avoid cross-contamination. You may also use this towel to wipe off surfaces under the hood. Wash this towel before you use it again.
The Finishing Touch
Use a quick detail spray like Mothers Showtime Detailer or Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz to rejuvenate the shine of your existing wax. Skip this step if you are going to apply another coat of wax.
I would just add (and for most all of you it's a no-brainer) that you should wash the car in a shady spot away from direct sunlight. I usually wash the cars in early morning or late afternoon when it is cooler and not so sunny.
Keeps those water spots at bay.
all of you drying techniques are COMPLETELY WRONG. the less you touch your paint the better. and by doing what you say what about spots that you cant see or reach the water just sits there and rusts away
Umm, instead of ridiculing, why don't you suggest the "proper" way to dry?Originally Posted by SimonME30
awesome tips! ty kindly!!
failOriginally Posted by dzlnitro
Those are some pretty great tips. There is an art to properly washing cars.
2010 BMW 528i Green/Cream
2009 Ford F150 White/Stone
2008 VW Rabbit 2dr Gray/Antracite
Awesome tips, thanks. Ever since I started sheeting water I get much better results. On a side note/contribution, I would sugest Maguire Wet Tire Shine (it comes in a black spray can)
One can only lasts me a little under 2 months with weekly application but it's not too pricy. It makes you're wheels shine up really nice, I rarly see a tire with a nicer shine that isn't new. Best applicated when tire is been cleaned and is dry (no water drops), but still slightly damp.
My $0.02
here's an awesome tip my friend's dad got about 10 years ago when he went to hot august nights, and i've been using it since then after he told me:
after rinsing down your car, take the nozzel off the hose. now take the hose with running water and rinse your car again with it in a slow sweeping motion. if your car has a good coat of sealant/wax on it, you'll notice that a lot of the water will start to sheet off. this makes final drying the car now easier and faster (i prefer to big blue waffle towel).
mmmmm nice idea. i want to try now.Originally Posted by Mike@Autogeek
Nice write up. And a suggestion for cleaning the windows. I find that it's best to dry the windows with two towels, one to get most of the moisture off, then one to wipe what's left. If you use one towel, it gets too saturated and leaves streaks, which can get annoying when sunlight hits your window and you see all the streaks. And the other guy needs anger management classes.
SimonME30-There is NOTHING wrong with any of the drying techinues given. I simply use a chamois (get a ggod one-no cheap imitations) and lay it out and slowly pull it toard me, ring it out and repeat and blotch the small spots. When drying the windows I use alot of paper towels getting all the water in the small cracks and crevices then mist over with windex and dry.
I've also found using a leaf blower makes drying very quick - and is touchless. It also gets water out from "inside" the rear view mirrors and door handles...
The blower is not 100% drying, so a quick follow-up with a synthetic chammy is my preferred technique.
Does anyone have advice regarding washing/maintain the soft top?
Thanks
Peace. S.
the leaf blower, awesome, I never would have thought of that, ill prob try it mañana
I thought using a California water blade was not a good idea.....?
Just make sure the leaf blower is electric, you dont want the gas and fumes to spray all over the car. I use a Water Blade on all of my cars and have no problem. They are good because of the T-Blade located at the end of it. Also the best way to care for the water blade is to store it back in it's container so it won't dry out and become brittle and to wash it as well before each use (to make sure no sand or the like is on it).
An old trick that I learned as a cadet at the Academy is to use newspapers to clean your windows and mirrors to prevent streaking...
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
I heard this also. I tried it when i first heard about it, worked great. I don't get it, but it works.Originally Posted by BMWManiac
i got you all beat on the drying.
ever tried the mr. clean washing kit?
looks cheap. don't laugh till you try it.
the key is the rinse cycle. the unit filters the water, virtually eliminating mineral deposits.
you can rinse after a wash and let the car dry in the shade, and you will not see water spots. it is truely effective.
a pal and i built out own filter from wal mart filters made for home drinking use. it works like magic. if anyone is interested i'll post a dyi.
sidvicious
97 BMW 328i Convertable [My first BMW]
60k miles
Automatic
99 New Beetle TDI
Blown engine [through negligence]
Under self repair [oh hell!]
2004 Toyota Sequoia
2003 Buick Rendezvous
I head that is bad for the paint?
its not bad for the paint, i use the special car wash cleaners the mit, it works really good, and the special cloth they use as well try it, its an A+++++ product, no towel marks when drying.
it is...the reason it looks so shiney is because it strips the clearcoatOriginally Posted by MPower7
the DI water strips the clear coat? or are you talking about something else?Originally Posted by awahl63
I would have to disagree with the comments about using a lambswool mit, that WILL scratch the paint !
CR Spotless is a great way to go if you want to skip the drying.
"Be ashamed to die until you have won some victory for humanity." ~ Horace Mann
Bookmarks