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Thread: E36 rattle? Here are some places to check.

  1. #1
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    E36 rattle? Here are some places to check.

    This can apply to other cars, but this is rather e36 specific

    Front rattles:

    Kick panel:
    Honestly, I've never ever seen one of these rattle, sans having a blown speaker in them. Possible culprits in the area have been the drain tube and leftover installation parts as well as poor re-installation of new speakers and the original trim. The drain tube can have the slapping action removed by using a buffer of weatherstripping adhesive on the panel behind it. A deflex pad can also help with any metallic noises coming from the area. Most assumed kick panel rattles are in the door.

    Glove Box
    Often overlooked, this thing has 6+ screws that are (supposed to be) in it. They often work loose. The placard adornment (94/95+) above the lock has also been identified as a rattler.


    Door
    This is where most rattles happen.
    The biggest culprit is the window regulator. If it has been replaced (most have) then the chances are 99% likely that the new one was attached with nuts and bolts, and not the factory rivets. Although this is a massive improvement, they can work themselves loose over time and not only rattle on their own, but allow the regulator and glass to also rattle. Tightening these bolts while using some form of thread lock help.
    Door clips are also a massive culprit, especially those on the pockets.
    if your door trim seems loose at any point, or the pockets seem detached from the panel or door - that might be the case.
    Pull your door panel, it is attached behind the grab by two torx screws, some shops replace these with phillips, so they will all vary. Convertibles have a third in the top part of the passenger door panel. For re-glueing the attachment strips, including the pockets, to the panel; I reccommend 3M super weatherstripping adhesive. One tube can do two doors that have completely fallen apart. When the mounts are re-secured, place new tabs into the mounts. They are the small white peices on the mounts that stab into the door. They remove by a simple quarter twist, (or being smashed through...) and re-install with the same twist. The current BMW part number is: 51 41 1 973 500 and they are ~ $.30 each.


    Above and Behind rattles:

    Sunroof:
    The biggest above rattle is the danged sunroof. The shims do have the tendency to scoot around, and the mounting screws tend to work loose. Rattles can be heard, only tilted, only open, only closed, or all the time, or any combination of those. The fix is to drop the headliner, and double check all the screws with the same torx driver used on the door panels (how convenient)

    Rear deck area:

    Split folding seats:
    The split folding seats have latching mechaanisms in them that do rattle. moving the striker back in the car a nudgin, or stuffing the gap (ugly) often alleviates most of this rattle.

    The rear deck:
    It flexes and slaps everything. The best fix I have seen so far for the lower area is a towel bewteen the parcel shelf and the rear deck metal. cheap
    Although, the biggest slap I have seen out of it comes not from that area, but the small hood over the third brake light. if you cram something to close the gap between the parcel shelf and the rear glass, it does a magnificient job of holding the whole deck still, as well as preventing it from hitting the glass. I use black paper folded to a long wad, and then to a v to hook over the parcel shelf. works quite well and takes seconds to do.



    Hope this helps,


    Peter

    Former owner of a 1993 325is that pulled 150+ DB frequently, and - never rattled...
    Current owner of a 1995 M3 on it's way to both...
    -

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPWheelr
    For re-glueing the attachment strips, including the pockets, to the panel; I reccommend 3M super weatherstripping adhesive. One tube can do two doors that have completely fallen apart.
    Really?!?! 3M Weatherstripping adhesive? The yellow, snot-like stuff in the red-and-white tube?

    On my driver's door, the attachment strips are made of the same fiber-material as the panels; I glued those with 2-part epoxy and they have held for six months. However, the pockets will not stay stuck. On the passenger side, however, the attachment strips are black plastic. I have glues those with epoxy, JB Weld, Duco cement, etc, and they keep pulling off. Nothing holds them for more than about 3 weeks at a time. Something about gluing plastic to fiberboard, I guess.

    I'll have to try the weatherstripping adhesive, though. I never would have guessed that stuff was tough enough to hold those door panels together.
    bmw 325is / bilstein / ireland engineering / toyo / alpine / pioneer premier / next / dayton audio
    bmw 528iAT /

  3. #3
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    it comes in black too...

    I personally use the yellow when I think about it though... that way I don't feel bad when I drip it all over the car...
    -

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPWheelr
    it comes in black too...

    I personally use the yellow when I think about it though... that way I don't feel bad when I drip it all over the car...
    Excellent. I am going to do this tonight (as well as put some deadening in the doors.) The S/O is going to a girl-only party to buy some... um... well nevermind , so I'll be fixing my door panels!
    bmw 325is / bilstein / ireland engineering / toyo / alpine / pioneer premier / next / dayton audio
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbreihan
    The S/O is going to a girl-only party to buy some... um... well nevermind , so I'll be fixing my door panels!
    hah!

    i got suckered into going to one of those a few years back.

    turned out the party one of my girl friends was going to didn't have enough people show up, so they called me and a couple other of my guy friends. we were in the area, so they made us go.

    it was interesting.

  6. #6
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    girl only party in the lou? where at?

    Like Quagmire at Meg's sleepover at Clevelands house...
    -

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPWheelr
    girl only party in the lou? where at?
    Wouldn't you love to know...

    http://www.pureromance.com/
    bmw 325is / bilstein / ireland engineering / toyo / alpine / pioneer premier / next / dayton audio
    bmw 528iAT /

  8. #8
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    well shoot, you've read my avatar have you not?

    Courtesan Wanted.

    NOW
    -

  9. #9
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    I think this would be the best place for anyone to put how to fix the dang trunk vibration that tons of e36's have. I searched and came up with LOTS of threads on this. Anyone got the easiest and best way to fix this?

    BTW, Mine isn't not any of the following: License plate (took it off, still rattles), Button (held it and STILL rattles), tool box (took the entire thing OUT of the car and still vibrates), I also tried adjusting the locking/latching mechanism and that didn't work (maybe I didn't try hard enough).

    I heard that expanding foam + deadener does the trick but that seems like a lot of work (haha I'm super lazy with fixing rattles).

    SO, did anyone out there find the mystery part that causes this amazingly huge rattle?

    '97 BMW 328is (picture) SOLD (unfortunately)
    '11 BMW 328xi (Mine)
    '15 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L V8 (Hers)

  10. #10
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    My rear seats (split folding) squeek like a mother. Just over any imperfections in the road etc.

    it drives me nuts some times.

    I dried dressing the shit out of everywhere that touches somethign else.. but alas... no luck.
    Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast

  11. #11
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    wheres the pictures?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by salvia.D View Post
    wheres the pictures?
    Are you talking to me? lol, cuz it's hard to take a picture of something rattling...

    '97 BMW 328is (picture) SOLD (unfortunately)
    '11 BMW 328xi (Mine)
    '15 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L V8 (Hers)

  13. #13
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    no to JP bc i comprehend things better visually

  14. #14
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    I've got a rattle in my car too over slight bumps in the road and almost sounds like its coming from the inside of the car and I hear it behind me out of my left ear. Anyone have any idea of things I could check to figure out what this is. I thought it might be the left shock mount, but with the sound seeming to be come from right behind me in the cabin or maybe right behind me outside, it doesn't seem like it would be that. If you have any ideas and how to check if that is whats rattling let me know. Thanks!
    "You put on the videohelmet and you quickly realize that this is not just another videogame. Your entire field of vision fills with another worldly scene. You're in the game! One day will come when you enter the cyberspace and you never ever want to get out. Cause reality is s*#t and cyberspace is god! Delete yourself! You have no chance to win!"

    11/1995 Cosmos Black Luxury Edition M3, Full Euro Intake (3.5" MAF) with JimC Anti-Knock Chip, Denso Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Tranny and LSD Fluid, Zimmerman OEM Rotors, Axxis Ultimate Break Pads, ATE Super Blue Break Fluid, and Mobile 1 15w-50 Extended Performance Synthetic Motor Oil, Luxury Edition Grill Delete with Mesh OEM Replacement, Euro OEM Clear Corners, Big Boy III Clutch Stop

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by greatcasa View Post
    I've got a rattle in my car too over slight bumps in the road and almost sounds like its coming from the inside of the car and I hear it behind me out of my left ear. Anyone have any idea of things I could check to figure out what this is. I thought it might be the left shock mount, but with the sound seeming to be come from right behind me in the cabin or maybe right behind me outside, it doesn't seem like it would be that. If you have any ideas and how to check if that is whats rattling let me know. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by JPWheelr View Post
    Rear deck area:

    Split folding seats:
    The split folding seats have latching mechaanisms in them that do rattle. moving the striker back in the car a nudgin, or stuffing the gap (ugly) often alleviates most of this rattle.

    The rear deck:
    It flexes and slaps everything. The best fix I have seen so far for the lower area is a towel bewteen the parcel shelf and the rear deck metal. cheap
    Although, the biggest slap I have seen out of it comes not from that area, but the small hood over the third brake light. if you cram something to close the gap between the parcel shelf and the rear glass, it does a magnificient job of holding the whole deck still, as well as preventing it from hitting the glass. I use black paper folded to a long wad, and then to a v to hook over the parcel shelf. works quite well and takes seconds to do.
    Hope this helps... I would say rear deck over the seats.

    '97 BMW 328is (picture) SOLD (unfortunately)
    '11 BMW 328xi (Mine)
    '15 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L V8 (Hers)

  16. #16
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    My rear deck is very loud now that I have subs, so loud I have turned them off, I will be trying to remove it soon, This and searching has greatly helped. Thanks

  17. #17
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    This is a good thread, mods should PARK it!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jensklemp View Post
    Hope this helps... I would say rear deck over the seats.
    I wish it were that, but my rear deck makes some noise also and I know what it sounds like. This is more from the left side of the car and somewhat mettalic in sound. Any ideas like a loose seat bolt/latch or something?
    "You put on the videohelmet and you quickly realize that this is not just another videogame. Your entire field of vision fills with another worldly scene. You're in the game! One day will come when you enter the cyberspace and you never ever want to get out. Cause reality is s*#t and cyberspace is god! Delete yourself! You have no chance to win!"

    11/1995 Cosmos Black Luxury Edition M3, Full Euro Intake (3.5" MAF) with JimC Anti-Knock Chip, Denso Iridium Plugs, Royal Purple Tranny and LSD Fluid, Zimmerman OEM Rotors, Axxis Ultimate Break Pads, ATE Super Blue Break Fluid, and Mobile 1 15w-50 Extended Performance Synthetic Motor Oil, Luxury Edition Grill Delete with Mesh OEM Replacement, Euro OEM Clear Corners, Big Boy III Clutch Stop

  19. #19
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    could very well be your rear shock mounts

    Yes, I meant the rear deck over the seats.
    -

  20. #20
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    So has anyone tried fixing the trunk rattle on an e36? Because I'm going to town tomorrow and I'm wondering if it overkill to do expanding foam + Dynamat (can get it locally, don't give me all the... dynamat is a rip off, I just want an answer)

    If it isn't overkill, how do you work with expanding foam, how much do I need, and do I need to take the trunk lid off to do it (I will assume so...)

    BTW, if someone has a part that they figured out rattles a lot in the trunk lid plz post what it is and how you fixed it, cuz that would save me a lotta time probably.

    THANKS GUYS!

    '97 BMW 328is (picture) SOLD (unfortunately)
    '11 BMW 328xi (Mine)
    '15 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L V8 (Hers)

  21. #21
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    Anyone... or should I start my own thread?

    '97 BMW 328is (picture) SOLD (unfortunately)
    '11 BMW 328xi (Mine)
    '15 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L V8 (Hers)

  22. #22
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    Excellent thread I am off to buy both yellow and black 3M Snot My whole door panel on the drivers side seperated from the sub frame, Makes it kind of tough to close the door.

  23. #23
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    You mean you can actually get rid of all of those rattles in the E36 interior?

    No. I refuse to believe it.

    Though, I think I've found another project to undertake one of these days...

    Cosmos on Black '98.5 M3 Coupe 5MT

  24. #24
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    Pillow stuffing works wonders on the rear deck - just buy a cheap pillow at target, rip it open, and stuff the contents up from the trunk holes.

    I'm currently trying to diagnose a terrible squeak and rattle that are coming from my passenger side airbag area. I have the glovebox and heat ducting out of the car, and the noises continue.
    Mike

    2011 BSM 335is
    1997 Cosmos M3
    DIYs: Washer Fluid

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by kerph32 View Post

    I'm currently trying to diagnose a terrible squeak and rattle that are coming from my passenger side airbag area. I have the glovebox and heat ducting out of the car, and the noises continue.
    don't suppose anyone has an idea on this? driving me nuts, esp in cold weather when it's worse
    Mike

    2011 BSM 335is
    1997 Cosmos M3
    DIYs: Washer Fluid

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