The $29 Harbor Freight special just died, picked up a Nikota 14.4V but it won't break the lugs loose. It's got a torque rating of 86 ft/lb but it didn't break them loose. What's a good cordless impact wrench for under $150?
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I bought the 19.2v HF deal. Not sure of the model, but got it on sale for ~$100 I think. So far it's been good. Although, sometimes it won't break lugs loose at 85lbs or so.
Jay
From wannabe to has been in a few short years..... the older I get, the faster I was
Ive never had issues with my SnapOn. It'll break lugs up past 100lbs
Here you go, I know several people that use this and it's great. Battery life is pretty good too. My dad has had one for about a year now. Sometimes they go on sale for $100-129, but currently it's $149.
So I am going to add a question to the mix, all of us take the Harbor Freight numbers (220 ft/lb, etc) with a grain of salt. My question is should we do the same for other highly reputable brands such as Dewalt.
Here are two examples of Dewalt cordless impact wrenches:
The first is a twelve volt option which claims 117ft-lb of max torque
http://www.toolup.com/productinfo.as...ES&ID=DW053K-2
The second is a Dewalt 14.4v option which claims 126ft-lb
http://www.toolup.com/productinfo.as...S&ID=DW055K-2#
Arguably the 117ft-lb, if it is to be believed, should easily break the 85ft-lb torque number that I use every weekend. So is the 14.4v option for $40 more really necessary?
As an FYI, in searching for a Craftsman solution to this issue, I came across this deal (or I think it is atleast).
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...ab=des#tablink
Last edited by jonmacs22; 06-10-2005 at 10:36 AM.
I dont think you're gonna run a an impact with that. Most impacts need twice as much air as that little compressor can provide. It would run a finishing nailer ok thoughOriginally Posted by jonmacs22
My 6 CFM @ 90 PSI unit is barely adequate for auto work, but it will run 2 framing nailers all day long without breaking a sweat. auto tools just use a lot of air.
Most people I know are happy with the HF 18v (19v now) impact. I have a snapon which is fine, but it also cost $350, so it better be
If you have a way to haul it I'd recommend going with a nitrogen cylinder and an air wrench. For less than I paid for my snapon cordless, you could buy a cylinder, regulator, a halfway decent (not chinese) air wrench and a lot of fills for you cylinder. Its what we use for enduros. You can also use the nitrogen in your tires. Its drier so you dont get as much pressure rise due to heat
Funny thing about rated torque on these impact wrenches...Originally Posted by jonmacs22
I have a Hitachi 18v rated at 180 lbs-ft, a friend has the Craftsman, and another friend has the 14.4v Dewalt, and an instructor friend of mine uses the Harbor Freight.
Since the Harbor Freight one started the thread, I'll comment on that first. It took my friend 3 tries to get an impact wrench that actually WORKS. Luckily he lives fairly close to a Harbor Freight store. Despite his initial "problems", his third HF impact wrench has performed flawless so far in over a year's use. He usually loosens the lugs with a breaker bar to save wear and tear on the impact wrench, and use it to lightly tighten the lugs then torque it with a proper torque wrench (which is what I recommend).
The other friend with the Craftsman SWEARS by the Craftsman. It's been in use the longest (3 years now) and breaks free lugs that aren't over-tightened. I've used it sparingly and I have to agree with him, it's an excellent tool, much better contruction than the HF.
My Hitachi was quite expensive ($350) but it's incredibly lightweight and very reliable. I can break lugs torqued up to 90 lbs-ft (my current ride requires 92 lbs-ft of torque). Although I have noticed that it has trouble with steel lug-bolts on FORGED wheels, very odd...I have had no problem with aluminum lug nuts on forged wheels on my current ride, nor steel lug-nuts on cast aluminum wheels on my wife's car.
The DeWalt that my other OTHER friend has, can't break lugs torqued at over 80 lbs-ft despite the torque rating.
"Bench racing" about track times driven by professionals are like a bunch of nerds arguing which Princess Leia is hotter, the slave Leia or the no-bra jail-bait Leia. No matter how compelling your argument is, the plain and simple fact is, none of you will EVER get to hit that.
The amount of torque that the wrench can break lose is also dependent on the size lugnut you use.
much like buying car parts that are cheap and you think they do an equal job... you end up buying something better down the road. Pay a little more now, and buy something decent... and you wont have to spend $ again later.
Ever since my HF jack failed TWICE (bought replacement) on me, I will never buy anything of importance from them again.
Ive had my 14.4V SnapOn for over 4 years now and it's still going strong breaking lugs that other "cheap" 19V ones cant. It's also light and "feels" heavy duty. It did cost me over $300 at the time though, but well worth it in my opinion.
.....like the others have said......torque ratings may not be too accurate. For $150 you are lmtd for sure....I paid @ 175 for Milwaukeee 14.4 v kit w/ case and 2 batts, rated at like 110 and it breaks lugs set at 85 but not easily.....buy brand name and spend as much as you can afford or just do HF ........bought mine from Toolfetch.com
I agree. When you're looking to buy a cordless impact or any good tool, there are only two words to remember.
Snap and On
not that I am expecting there to be, but is there an option online, discount something, etc where a guy like me can find a snap-on cordless impact wrench for less than the advertised price of 440 bucks?
I've been using the Milwaukee 18v 1/2" for 3 race weekends now...and frankly...I don't know how I lived without it before! It does 240 ft/# Got it off an ebay seller...toolbynet for $275. Here's a current auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...522277323&rd=1
Seems really well made and has a 3 yr warranty.
I'd recommend it...
Mark in St. Louis
2000 MCoupe
motor: 12:1 fully built Metric Mechanic S52...Wisecos, Eagle rods, custom cams, LTW valvetrain, ported head, dBilas ITB's and custom tuning by NickG.
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suspension: TCK S/A 400/700, RD Sways, HIOP plates.
exhaust: HIOP headers, custom LTW 3" single exhaust.
misc: Revozport CF hood, powdercoated roadstars, alcantara steering wheel.
contact me for custom machining of any kind!
We use the same one and it breaks the lugs free no problem. Now that were getting an enclosed trailer, its time for a compressor and an air impactOriginally Posted by buldogge
We rarely use our compressor for anything other than filling tires or blowing dust/water off the car any more. Our air wrench only get's broken out for big jobs like hub changes or other bolts that the Snap-On won't break lose. It's so much easier to just throw the Snap-On onto the tray of the rolling stool and roll around the car changing wheels. The air hose always seems to be in the way in the paddock when using the air wrench.Originally Posted by m3ltw98
I have a DeWalt DW059K-2.
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...productID=6347
Pretty sweet. Breaks loose lugs very easily.
What would Crockett and Tubbs do?
1994 E36 Hellrot/Black 325is
2007 E92 Jet Black/Saddle Brown 335i
Ebay usually has a bunch... sometimes even new!Originally Posted by jonmacs22
Edit: I just noticed youre in DC... Dan Donahue is a local SnapOn dealer who gives discounts to SCCA members in the region.
snap on 14.4v here and love it to death also have the 3/8 12.2v one and love it too. i heard they have a 18v 1/2 drive one out too that must be a mean tool
Cars sold now
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andrew vovou
The 18V Snap On is a lot heavier than the 14.4V one though.... both still very good.Originally Posted by vodomagoo
Eric -Originally Posted by magnetic1
Dan Donahue is no longer a Snap-On dealer
He's now working for a tire distributor.
Neil
MDORPHN - 2011 Alpine White 1 Series M Coupe w/stuff
My Snap On CT350 does not work very well with the 12v battery. The 14v battery works fine. If I had to do it again I'd go with the 18v Dewalt.
And I was going to HF to buy a cheap ass jack because my Sears Aluminum jack crapped out just under 1 year. No receipt, no warranty.
...steven BMWCCA 146825
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1995 318ti Club Sport - 1996 328ti Sport - 1991 325iC - 2003 Mini Cooper S
so bitter I just missed this because I do not have a paypal account:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
Not to be a wise ass but cheap will eventually cost you more. that doesn't mean you have to spend the money for Snap-On (though they are great). I use a Milwaukee 18v and it breaks my lug nuts loose at 88.5 lbs in a few seconds. I carry a couple of spare batteries for long weekends at the track.
I have the 24V HF cordless and it don't do shit for breaking free at 85-86 ft/lbs. its fine for removing the nuts after I use the breaker bar and helps to reinstall them after hand threading to start--but I could rig up a drill or cordless screwdiver to do the same thing--sounds like the Milwaukee 18V may be the way to go--anyone sell them at a decent price???
Agreed. This is one of the best cordless impacts out there. I have been using mine for over 2 years. Not only will it break lug nuts but many other nuts and bolts as well like, caliper bolts, driveshaft bolts, exhuast bolts. etc..Originally Posted by ///Madman
My only complaints are it is a bit heavy although the battery can be mounted 2 ways to balance the gun and I had to replace a battery after 1 year of service. Other than that it has been the best tool investment I have made to date. Cordless that is.
Jordan
Never Lift
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