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Thread: Stupid wheel bearing

  1. #1
    M-Theory Guest

    Stupid wheel bearing

    Well, I finally took in my 325i to get looked at and it has a bad wheel bearing. How much does this usually cost for them to fix? Also, I read something that Ron posted about replacing them in pairs. The mechanic said it wasn't nesecary to do them both at the same time...

  2. #2
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    Irony. I am picking up my car tomorrow after getting a rear bearing replaced.I got the bearing for $42 from bimmerparts.com and the mechanic charged me 2 hours of labor ($160). so $202 out the door, definately not DIY material...

    As for the replacing them in pairs. If it ain't broke Don't fix it...

  3. #3
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    I think that Ron was reffering to the fact that if one went out on you, chances are the other may go out soon, so fix them both at the same time and save trouble down the road.

  4. #4
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    Front or rear wheel bearing?

    I have replaced the front bearings myself. Not too bad a job. I have not done the rear bearings, but from what I have read from other's experiences, special tools could be required (or at least highly recommended).

    I agree with the previous post about replacing both. While not absolutely required, if one went the other is sure to follow...at the worst possible time.

    Good luck!
    Bernman

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildStorm
    I think that Ron was reffering to the fact that if one went out on you, chances are the other may go out soon, so fix them both at the same time and save trouble down the road.
    that is correct.

    also, the fronts are a DIY while the rears I had done at the dealer (warrany) so I can't comment on those. keep in mind that aggressive suspension drops wear out the bearings earlier then normal.

    air tools are required to get the fronts off and a huge torque wrench are handy for torquing the bearings properly once fitted.

    Hey man, I'm a professional!

  6. #6
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    potato
    It's a DIY depending on how well outfitted your toolbox is - for only a couple hundred bucks though, I'd save yourself some tears, sweat and blood and just bring it to a shop.

  7. #7
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    or for only a couple hunderd bucks, you can purchase a well thought out collection of tools and never have to deal with wasted money, time, inconveniance etc at a shop ever again.

    your money, your time and your choice.

    personally, I prefer not to let a grease monkey touch my car when I know I can do as or good or even better job and get it done right the first time rather then bitch and moan about how a shop screwed me.

    I'm currently in the market for a wheel mounting machine and tire balancer so I can be 100% free from 3rd party mechanics.

    -Ron

    Hey man, I'm a professional!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by psonio7
    Irony. I am picking up my car tomorrow after getting a rear bearing replaced.I got the bearing for $42 from bimmerparts.com and the mechanic charged me 2 hours of labor ($160). so $202 out the door, definately not DIY material...

    As for the replacing them in pairs. If it ain't broke Don't fix it...
    Ditto except I got mine back in march, and I got my bearing from somewhere else for about the same price.

    I only had my right rear bearing replaced. The left rear has been fine for the passed 13000 miles. ::knocks on wood::

    If you play your cards right, it shouldn't cost any more than $200ish out the door.

  9. #9
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    potato
    Here's a DIY on the rear bearings: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=98164

  10. #10
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    I did the driver's side rear wheel bearing, and it was quite a bear.

    Most of the problems I had were related to inexperience/mistakes and stuck fasteners. Now that I did one side, I think I could do the other side a lot faster.

    I did buy the bearing tool from bavauto for $250, but the bearing itself is only $40. The stealer nearest my house wanted about $450 a side for bearings and almost $500 to change the two differential output seals.

    If you have the car apart to change the wheel bearing, it only takes 5 minutes extra to change the diff seals, which are only about $10 or so. Chances are, yours are leaking like mine.

    If you can get it done for around $200 like some of the other guys have claimed, I would say let somebody else do it.

    I opted to do it myself because the dealer was being too greedy and I don't know anybody around my place that I trust. For me, I was looking at almost $1400 for the two bearings and diff seals at the stealer. I bought all of parts and tools, including a new manual and bearing tool, among others, for less than $450. For the same jobs!

    Good luck either way.

    -psuman93

  11. #11
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    Rear bearings are about $300.00 a side to get done. Like said above parts are about $50.00 and the rest is labor. This is not very difficult DIY but not for the weak or lazy. All the tools you need can be rented from tool rental places, they are not special for BMW applications.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by supark
    Can someone verify the Axle nut size? It seemed like he wasn't sure about that.
    What about all the other wrench/socket sizes?
    Was this writeup really helpful? I'm a little confuse with the Dremel procedure.

    I think I'll rent whatever I can.

    psuman93, thanks for the heads-up on the seals!
    3rd Infantry Division, United States Army

    "Rock of the Marne!"

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RacermeX
    Can someone verify the Axle nut size? It seemed like he wasn't sure about that.
    What about all the other wrench/socket sizes?
    Was this writeup really helpful? I'm a little confuse with the Dremel procedure.

    I think I'll rent whatever I can.

    psuman93, thanks for the heads-up on the seals!
    RacermeX

    You're very welcome. Hopefully I can save you some time and money. That's what this forum is all about.

    I don't remember myself what the axle nut size is, but it is pretty big, like around 30mm or so. It probably won't be included in any kit, if you buy one.

    Most of the other stuff is pretty tame, like 10 to 13 mm type stuff. The differential bolt is an external torx 12mm or E12. I tried getting them off not having the right tool and messed up the diff bolts. What a pain! @#$%$#$ They are in there pretty tight, like 100 ft-lbs or so, but mine weren't rusty at all. In fact, they had a light coating of oil from the diff I think. After I screwed up the heads, I tried using an EZ-out on them. I got one that way, but I ended up Dremeling the heads off two diff bolts. Once the pressure was relieved, I could turn them out with my fingers.

    Long story short USE THE RIGHT TOOL HERE.

    As far as the Dremeling goes (as described by others), I'll try to explain. Warning - Long Winded Explanation
    The bearing assembly is a "press fit". In fact, there is a "press fit" with three items in our assembly. First of all, the bearing itself is pressed into the hub housing into a pocket that is just slightly smaller than the bearing. That's why you need a puller to pull the bearing out of the pocket and to pull the new one back in. Additionally, the hub (the part that spins and attaches to your brake rotor and wheel) is pressed into the inner race of the bearing, which is slightly smaller than the hub.

    To take the whole shooting match apart, first you have to pull the hub out of the inner race of the bearing. Normally, you will destroy the bearing and the inner race of the bearing will stick to the hub. That's where the Dremel come in. You will have to cut the inner race off the hub with the cutting tool, but be careful not to damage the hub itself.

    Mine was REAAAALLLLY stuck on there. I chose not to use the Dremel. I heated mine with a propane torch (plumbing type) and tried to muscle it off. NO DICE. My wife's cousin (who is a mechanic) lives next door, so I went over there for him to burn it off with a proper torch (oxy-acetylene). SO, you can see why people use the Dremel.

    As far as the outer race of the bearing, it will be stuck in the hub assembly pocket. I guess some guys might try to Dremel that out too, but your best bet is to use the puller with a washer that is big enough to grab the bearing, but not too big that it hits the hub assembly. I used the big and bad tool from BavAuto (I forget who makes it). That makes it pretty easy. However, you can save a lot of money by renting something similar or trying something on your own (like a big bolt with some mammoth washers).

    Good luck

    PS Racermex - Are you from Mexico?

    -psuman93

  14. #14
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    E36 rear hub nut needs a 32mm 12-point socket. M3 uses a 36mm 12-point. As psuman has pointed out, use the proper too to remove the axle flange bolts, or you will be cutting the heads off. The bolts don't actually need a tremendous amount of torque to install, but they have a serrated head that bites into the locking plate beneath them that helps keep them in place...and makes them diffcult to remove.

    Good luck,
    Bernman

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by psuman93
    PS Racermex - Are you from Mexico?

    -psuman93

    Thanks for the info!!
    I was born here in the U.S.
    My parents are from Mexico. I am proud to be an American of Mexican descent.
    3rd Infantry Division, United States Army

    "Rock of the Marne!"

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by RacermeX
    Thanks for the info!!
    I was born here in the U.S.
    My parents are from Mexico. I am proud to be an American of Mexican descent.
    That's cool. The reason I ask is that the wildest ride I've ever had in a BMW was in Mexico City. I was on a business trip for my former company about 4 or 5 years ago. My company sold high-end lighting products, and they always get some distributors to go out with you at night for entertainment. My Spanish is not very good, so they sent me out with two cool guys that could speak English well. We went to a really nice restaurant in the one guy's BMW. It was an E36 coupe, possibly an M3. After dinner we started driving back to the hotel. It was late in the evening, like 11PM, but in Mexico City there is still a lot of traffic, from beat up old pickups and buses, to well, BMW's.

    SO, this guy is driving pretty zippy, but nothing wild, when another BMW passes us. This guy goes nuts and then drops the hammer. We started racing through the winding streets, three and four lanes wide, with all kinds of cars everywhere. My buddy from my company and I were holding on for our lives in the back seat of this coupe. He didn't want to let that other BMW pass him. The driver knew what he was doing, so I wasn't THAT scared, but damn, that was one wicked ride. That's when I first learned what a BMW was all about.



    -psuman93

  17. #17
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    Cool, My first "crazy BMW" experience was in Germany, with a cab driver.
    My craziest passenger experience was in Itay with yet another cab driver. I was truly impressed with his skills and control, nevermind the fact that we were flying down small streets, alleys, and trolly tracks.
    3rd Infantry Division, United States Army

    "Rock of the Marne!"

  18. #18
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    hey thats my write up. the job is easy but not for the faint of heart. I am sort of a "ghetto engineer". Dremel worked best for me because i am used to working with the darn thing

  19. #19
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    fronts are very easy to fix...did mine a month ago, special tools needed though, pls hit me up on a PM if anyone needs help!
    i need a shit-load of dimes.

  20. #20
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    Talking

    Sounds like a mind humping experience to DIY....midas is charging me 225.00 for everything..let them deal with e headache...also my hub assembly is stripped..again thats their headache

  21. #21
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    i dont know if i trust Midas with da bimmer...... it really isn't that hard, i'd put it at about four on a scale of 1-10....
    i need a shit-load of dimes.

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