Mods, can this get parked???
It would be nice to have thread displaying known Bentley errors to help us aviod costly troubleshooting mistakes.
My contribution is the CRANK POSITION SENSOR, according to the Bentley the leads should read 1.1-1.4 kohm. In reality its only 550 ohms. This mistake costed me 125 bucks and 1 hour of my life.
There's no bleeder screw on the E36 M3's thermostat housing.
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The fuel sender resistance values published in the Bentley manual do not apply to all E36 models.
E36 DIYs: Air Pump | Vent Gauge | E46 Armrest | SmarTire TPMS
E46 DIYs: Hella TPMS | Aftermarket Horns | Window Regulator Notes | Trunk Wire Harness | Trunk 12V Socket
that would also apply to other 6 cylinder E36's - my '97 M3 motor and my '98 323is motor both did not have the bleader screw.Originally Posted by bimmer95
Hey man, I'm a professional!
Oh, I know, but Bentley specifically states that the M3 motor has a bleeder screw there.... even though none of them doOriginally Posted by themadhatter
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My Bentley manual says it should be between 0.4-0.8ohms. You have an old book or something?Originally Posted by SecretAznMan4u
Originally Posted by surfacewound
.4 to .8 ohms???? thats totally wrong
Waait. hehe, i didn't read the table's title.Originally Posted by SecretAznMan4u
I looked in the index for crank position sensor, it says look in ignition, which at first glance saw 120-5, and then just saw the table and didn't read the title. on me.
its all good, thats why I started this thread so people dont make costly mistake either by reading the book wrong or wrong data. next time though, its you and me buddy!! I AM e-Tough!!
310 Front Ride Height
Sport suspension for non-M3 E36 = 22.6", not 23.52"
Some ladies like a hand-held. I prefer to drive mine.
is bently a car repair manual?
No, but Bentley is, http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...books&n=507846Originally Posted by ReVsHoT
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there is a 10mm bolt above the glove box light keeping the glove box secure!!!!!!!!! :
yes sir!!!Originally Posted by ca415playa
BMWMOFO C6MPACT
How to remove the tensioner caps on the pulleys is not mentioned -
I thought the cap was near the edge of the pulley, but where that little dip is on the end, that is where you need to pry off the cover. I noticed this when I did the A/C one first - it had some notches around the cap and the accessory cap was filled with crap so I couldn't see the notches... They popped right off...!
Removing the belts -
I removed the A/C belt no problem with the 8mm allen key (from underneath the car - which also isn't mention in Bentley's), but as I tried to loosen the upper tensioner, I couldn't fit the 8mm key in the centre of the pulley, as said in logun.org and Bentley's. I figured that a 16mm socket would fit around the bolt on that pulley. This is on a '98 328is.
Glenn
'98 328is - Arctic Silver
=============================
Great thread by the way!
Glenn
'98 328is - Arctic Silver
=============================
BMW switched back and forth between 8mm allen and 16mm hex bolts on the main belt tensioners, seemingly at random. You really just need to have both handy any time you take belts off.Originally Posted by Glenn 328is
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What's up with the lack of ENGINE BLOCK info??!?!?! No specs on bearing clearances, tightening torques, dimensions, etc.
James Muskopf
RRT Racing
DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility
I also couldn't find any information on installing/replacing sway bars. Am I missing something?
2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
07/97 BMW (Sold 08/09) - 03/01 Audi A4 1.8TMCX (Sold 06/03)
Please do NOT PM me! Email me: clumpymold@sbcglobal.net
Dear All,
First of all, thumbs up to Bentley for provide such a great manual.
I noticed that they do post some correction info on their website.
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/resource.htm?subject=4
Hopefully this will help..
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FOR SALE - 14900/ will trade for e36 m3/ 325/8 for e39 540i
On changing the rear suspension:
they say "oh yeah, just take the axles off and you'll have enough room to pull out the springs." LAME!!
There are about 3 extra steps you need to do, including loosening the trailing arm and removing the sway bar.
note: this was my first suspension job and I'm not totally positive about this, but I honestly didnt see any other way around the extra steps.
Not true, you don't need to do anything other than remove the lower shock bolt. I've swapped springs on well over a dozen E36s and E46s and I've NEVER removed anything more than the shock bolt. You just need to release the parking brake and have a partner step down on the top of the brake rotor, then the spring's out in 2 seconds. The other day we swapped both rear springs on an E46 in exactly 15 minutes including the time to jack up the car and remove/replace the wheels.Originally Posted by Domino
Last edited by bimmer95; 07-19-2004 at 01:01 PM.
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Chris is right. You dont have to remove the axles.....
I dont have friends so I just used a long a$$ pipe and pressed down.
I was actually able to do this with my hands it's that easy.
The new shorter springs makes it even easier.
With springs you're having trouble removing, the best thing to do is remove the other side shock bolt.
I found removing spring on opposite side much easier.
Last edited by Balthazarr; 07-26-2004 at 02:24 AM.
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