so i have been busy lately.
parts list..
Piston Pin Snap Ring
Crankshaft Main Cap Bolt
Cylinder Head Bolt Set
Head Gasket Set
Oil Pressure Relief Valve
Oil Pump Rotor Set
Spacer Bushing
Main Bearing Set
Rod Bearing Set
Connecting Rod Bolt
Genuine BMW Piston Rings
Timing Chain
Timing Chain Rail
Timing Chain Rail Lower
Timing Chain Rail Upper Slide Rail
Chain Tensioner Rail
Timing Chain Rail "Deflection Plate
Spring
Water Pump
O-Ring for Water Pipe
Water Pipe Connector
Engine Mount
Knock Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Transmission Mount
Output Shaft Seal
Input Shaft Seal
Selector Rod Seal
Tension Bushing for Shift Rod Coupling
Shifter Arm Plastic Bushing
Rubber Buffer
Shift Tower Bushing for Shift Lever Pivot
Shift Rod Joint
Bushing for Shift Lever Support Arm
Shift Rod Circlip at Shift Rod Joint and Shift Lever
Flex Disc
Center Support with Bearing Assembly
O ring for Heater Core Pipes
Heater Core
O Ring for Heater Valve
Heater Pipe
Heater Valve
Activated Charcoal Filter
Heater Hose, Outlet to Return Pipe
Heater Hose From Heater Valve
Heater Hose Return
Heater Hose, Inlet from Back of Head
VW lifters
cams
flywheel bolts
clutch cover bolts
exedy clutch kit
m40 flywheel
blower motor
ect
reshaped the rear of the throttle and knifed egged the butterflies
did the same for the lower intake manifold. also polished the intake runners and port match
clutch and flywheel i got months ago.
exhaust manifold had over 3 cracks in it.
my work space. long hours spent here
the engine had over 300k on it and the bearings still looked ok.
removing cams ect.
yep this is how clean the head looked
Last edited by DailyE36; 10-24-2012 at 10:40 AM.
tapped up the exhaust ports for polishing
same thing here for cleaning the head
i removed the pilot bearing using a bolt with a nut on the end to catch the inside of the bearing while hitting the hammer (arrow) with another hammer, using cardboard to protect the sealing surface just in case.
bolt and nut
when things get serious
cam treys ready to be cleaned
some damage on the rear bearing surface on both cam trays
parts from pelican
new style plastic oil pressure relief valve (old style tends to get stuck resulting in oil pressure loss)
the correct spring and spacer is also needed for this to work properly
new main bearing set with 360 thrust bearing (stock only has 180)
steel water pump
micro filter
and its surface area
new oil pump
some new bling
gasket sets
installing new heater core
new filter and blower motor installed
draining gearbox befor fitting new seals
VW lifter vs stock m42
no mods needed for them to fit
measuring to make sure everything is ok before assembly
only thing is the length is different, but still works fine.
head cleaned
left the intake ports stock
polished as much as i could be bothered, 99,9% polished.
cleaned the valves as much as possible
old vs new oil pressure valve
new oil pump installed
hone the cylinder walls using a flex hone with 240 grit.
painted the block non-gloss gold, cos i can
lubing the bearings ready for assembly
gear puller to remove the gearbox rear flange
30mm deep socket with wall grinded down so it will fit.
shoved a bolt in the flange while removing the nut
sorting out the sump
WTF is this ?
256/256 10.5mm lift. for the street.
first piston installed
and the rest
i used tape to hold the vw lifters in while placing the trays in the head.
looking sexy
lubing
schrick vs stock
schrick cams with light vw lifters
the gangsta chain is on
flywheel on
clutch on
going in the car
replacing the center bearing
bracket made up for the A/C fan with no A/C
done, a little dirty, but done
primed the oil pump by filling the oil filter housing with oil and put the filter in and crank the engine over with no spark plugs in and no fuel for 30sec bursts. oil pressure light went out after second burst.
so far running good and smooth but have a coolant leak at the fire wall. will fix tomorrow.
thinking about dyno tune when the engine is run in. not sure what power the engine will do but anything more that stock is a achievement
any questions about part NO. or anything feel free to ask.
Beautiful work.
Is that a 928 I spy?
On the hunt for Westvleteren. Have some? PM me.
EPIC!!!!
How much was shipping on all that?
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
woah.. wish I could have watched all that in person as it went down. Would have learned a lot! Nice work!
hey fantastic work man.
TOTAL RESPECT !!!!
That's alot of work and time and money spent on that engine
Congratulations
How does it feel before and after ?
... That's exactly what Ive always had in mind for mine. How long did it all take you?
i have only driving once so far and feels smooth, the revs come up noticeably quicker, cant thrash it yet so not sure on the butt dyno. the clutch grabs really fast so have to get used to that.
total time from start to finish including waiting for parts multiple times was around the 2 month range. total engine build time one week everyday befor work.
when to the dyno today to get a quote on a run and remap. they said that they will run the car on the dyno and check if everything is ok and they will tune it if needed for $190, but. the DME remap was quoted over $1K? that's pretty steep. so ill leave the remap for another time.
as of now the car has over 700km on it. when i hit 1000km ill do a service and the drive to the dyno.
i'll post up results when it's done. without a remap it will be average
Read over this thread again and I have a question on the cam bearings. I see you used a ton of lube on them. Doesn't all that lube cause a large buildup so the caps wont torque down correctly?
Hope you can understand what I'm getting at.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
if the engine blows up ill just throw it in the bin and buy something better
I was actually looking for a more technical answer. Im not questioning your incredible work. Just curious
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
after i took the pic i smoothed out the lube with my finger (i didnt want lube on my camera) i can't remember if lube got between the joining surfaces but so far i have had no problems.
and in the future when i get bored i might supercharge the car. but i doubt that.
going to check out another dyno place today for prices.
That is incredible, haven't seen many people put that much effort into a 4cyl. Looks amazingly clean, should be right for another 200,000 km's now :P Are you in Victoria? If so, where did you get your head and stuff cleaned?
Great job! Consider investing in a set of fender covers to protect the finish of a very nice car.
i live in south australia. i got the head cleaned in adelaide 3 years ago when the head cracked. this time i just cleaned it myself.
getting dyno tune next week. engine has 1000km now and gave it a thrash. feels a little faster, the revs are a lot smoother especially in the hi-rpm range. spins the wheels shifting from 1st to second, more than it did befor..
so the car made 90kw at the wheels today, it was running lean in the hi-rpm range so the guy tuned the AFM. the ecu is still running off stock maps. a ecu remap will be the next thing, but not for a while.
the dyno guy said that the car is throwing down 180hp at the engine! if thats true than
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