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Thread: e39 rear wheel bearings WOWWEE! a couple tips

  1. #1
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    e39 rear wheel bearings WOWWEE! a couple tips

    i just did one of my rear bearings today. Wow does that suck to do. I have no luck with pressed on bearings. Every time i touch them its a nightmare to remove.
    Took all day to do just one wheel. I figured i would start with the bad one because that is the one that will be the worst to do. A bad bearing generates alot of heat making it even more "welded" on than normal. Heat accelerates chemical reactions, like the formation of iron oxide for example. Hopefully tomorrow the other one just comes right out.

    When i tried to remove the axle nut i almost failed before i even started. I discovered that the axle nut is a very shallow nut and my socket had a taper around the edge so that the 12 point teeth didnt start until about and 1/8 inch in. This was not enough to get a good enough bite to remove a nut this tight. I kept slipping and i was afraid i might strip it and be screwed. Right when im about to make some custom sockets again my neighbor comes over and lets me borrow his brand new one. Night and day difference such a small design can make.

    use a jack stand like this to hold the bar level to nut. It will take at least your full body weight to loosen this nut.


    My biggest problem was that once I had the axle pushed half way out it just got stuck. I mean i beat it with a hammer and socket hard and i would budge stuck. You need the axle to be almost completely out to reach the bearing bolt heads on the 540 axle. I bought the 1/4 inch drive tools suggested in the diy but they were of no use to me until i had it almost all the way out to where i could use 3/8 drive anyway. I had been PBblastering it every day for a week too! The back side of the hub is tapered right where you need the puller to be able to grab. Eventually i got the puller to hold and right when i was at the point where im thinking "wow any more pressure and im going to snap this tool", and BOOM it popped so loud and fast i thought someone capped me. It was louder than the time i figured when my ball joint remover was about to snap and pow out comes the tie rod.
    Once the hub is out the inner inner race is still stuck. Reading someone else's diy it mentioned you could rent the race puller tool from AdvanceAuto. When i went to pick it up the guy had no idea what i was talking about so i had to improvise.


    I used a 4 1/2 inch hand grinder to remove the race. In another diy someone used a diamond blade. This is wrong. Diamond blades are for cutting masonry. I use them everyday. They cost about $50 a pop for the good ones and metal will ruin them almost instantly. You want to use the black kind that look like woven asphalt material or something. The thin black ones are for cutting metal using the edge. The thick black ones are for grinding metal using the face. Make sure you use the blade type appropriately. I dont recommend using the grinder for everyone because you need the hands of a surgeon to do this without hitting the hub. Nick the hub and the new bearing wont slide on properly or possibly get jammed.

    I used a black metal grinding disc. I slowly wore down the race without ever actually going all the way thru. just made it until it was about a hair thick. The plan was to make it thin the hit it with a sharp chisel. As you can see in the pic there is a micro crack in the metal starting to develop from the top down. This is because it took about 15 minutes to get this far and the metal was super hot. It eventually turned blue by the time i was on my second disc. By the time i got 2/3 of the way down it got so hot it just popped and fell right off the hub. Wasnt really how i meant to do it but w/e good enough.


    after putting the bearing back, on the axle would not go far enough to put the axle nut back on. There is a special bmw tool too pull the axle but i found a way easier solution. There is a hole in the dust shield where you can tap it in with a hammer from behind after torqueing down the bearing bolts. The part you tap is basically the part that blocks your access to the bearing bolts. Its like a big round metal hub on the axle behind the knuckle. Just be careful to hit the metal flange and not the cv boot. I also spun the hub so the axle would be in a different position everything i hit it to even out the impacts since i was hitting off center. The main trick is to jack up the swing arm until the axle is sitting level. I already had the arm jacked level at this point. I discovered if i let the jack down it would force the axle halfway home. I then jacked it back up level again and tapped it from behind.



    then once the axle nut was on i screwed in one lug nut and jammed a big hammer under it so the hub wouldnt turn when i cranked the axle nut down. I was probably able to get close to 200nm before i stopped and put the wheel on to finish it to 300nm.



    a good trick another member suggested somewhere was to use a 6 inch extension on the 36mm socket and then put a jack stand under the extension to hold it for you while you push down. Im 200lbs and it took more than my body weight on a 350lbs torque wrench to get it tight. When pressing this hard the socket is really hard to keep on and the jack stand made it so much easier to keep flat.
    Last edited by topaz540i; 05-13-2012 at 10:54 PM.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  2. #2
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    +1 that does sound like a nightmare.

    I have this on my need to do list, but bloody hell not looking forward to it now.

    Hopefully someone else has had a better experience with this?


    1998 Garageworks' E39 Widebody - needs a lot of work, but I'm bringing it back.

  3. #3
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    Glad you got it sorted...my rears were a bit of a pain as well...but with 172K...I'm not too upset.
    BMWCCA #389756
    e39 Touring SOLD.

  4. #4
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    a puller that can lock the joint positions would have helped alot. They offered me this option when i rented it this morning but i didnt realize what the point was at the time.

    Make sure your puller can convert to 2 prong. you need that for separating the hub and bearing.

    2 fronts and 1 rear down. I had it up to 100mph on the highway and the car is driving straight again! No more non existent wind pushing me around anymore lol.
    Last edited by topaz540i; 05-12-2012 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  5. #5
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    I'm doing a rear suspension overhaul next month. I treated myself to a new set of hubs. They aren't very expensive, and it avoids all this heartache.

    Last edited by Graham E39 528i; 05-12-2012 at 10:07 PM.




  6. #6
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    separating the hub and bearing once the bearing was out was actually very easy. Its getting the axle out of the hub far enough so that you can gain access to the bearing bolt heads that sucks. Behind the knuckle the axle has a large flange that is exactly in the way.

    something else that was really hard is the the knuckle kinda curves around on the sides making it really hard to get a visual on what you are doin. I literally had to lay on my back with the hub over my chest to get my head far enough in to see the bolt heads.
    I really dont recommend putting your chest under the suspension because you will surely die when the car falls but i really had to get it done and there was no other way to see.
    Last edited by topaz540i; 05-12-2012 at 11:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  7. #7
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    Good thread.

    By the way, PB Blaster is not a very good penetrant. Kroil is much better:







  8. #8
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    there was a debate the other day about wd-40 vs pb blaster lol
    i have never heard of kroil. I have a can of Sea Foam DeepCreep that i havent tried yet.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  9. #9
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    Sounds raw. My buddy just tried to replace his as they were groaning while taking turns. Even with the puller tool apparently the job didn't go correctly...

    Wheel bearings seems like one of those jobs you should rather have the shop do.

  10. #10
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    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  11. #11
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    Even better than any spray penetrant is heat, oxy-acetylene torch. I did the rear bearing pretty quickly on my 540 last month. After taking off the big middle nut I just put a block of wood on the end of axle shaft and popped it with a 2 lb hammer a bit. That made enough room to fit my 11mm six point socket over the external torx bolt heads. With a little torch heat around the bolt threads, the 4 bolts came out without a lot of fuss. Then used axle puller to pop the hub out. Then put the flange in vise and heat the inner bearing race with the torch. 1 lb hammer and sharp chisel popped the inner race off. Assembly reverse of disassembly but without the torch. I think it took me around 2 hours but that was mainly because I took it slow and thought things over.

  12. #12
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    Its one of those jobs where you just gotta have the right tools or your stuck.
    I really thought i was about to bust another puller when it finally popped loose. Weird thing is i got it to move the axle halfway before it got stuck like hell. Usually its stuck from the beginning and then busts loose.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  13. #13
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    This is the tool I am going to use:



    HF #66657

    "He who dies with the biggest puller, WINS"
    Last edited by Graham E39 528i; 05-13-2012 at 05:32 PM.




  14. #14
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    I know the 3-series cars have RW bearings that are somewhat different (not welded into their hubs), but isn't the task of getting the bearing flange (and race off the hub flange) about the same? Or not?

    Seems like every DIY has a different approach.... Here's one where Ed's Garage removes the half-shafts from the differential side, then uses a large bearing separator first as a backing plate so the hub flange can be pressed off using a couple of lug bolts, then to get the inner race off the flange. (These steps start at around 3:15 and 7:00 minutes into the vid.)

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKYL9_4mXRI[/ame]

  15. #15
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    Man, I think I'll just spend the extra on new hubs, or take it to the shop when the time comes.

    Other cars that don't matter, and then..
    '01 530i Sport/Premium/Cold Weather(My 1st love)
    '02 540i Sport/Premium/Cold Weather (German bitch)
    '06 330i Sport/Comfort (Sweetness!)
    '08 535i/6 Sport/Premium/Comfort/Nav ()
    '99 528i Sport Touring (Repaired the Previous owners garbage and let her go)
    '02 525iT Premium/Nav/Cold Weather/Alpine/Supercherry
    '90 325i e30 sedan schwarz (1st e30 project!)
    '90 325is e30
    '06 X5 4.4
    '04 325i Sport
    '04 330ci
    '89 325IX 31k Original Miles!
    '04 330i e46 coupe
    '08 550i Sport
    '13 535i Sport
    '13 328i Luxury
    '88 e30 Stroker


  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by topaz540i View Post
    I really dont recommend putting your chest under the suspension because you will surely die when the car falls but i really had to get it done and there was no other way to see.
    That's very silly. As a fellow member, mmm635, once said to me: "No hobby is worth dieing for"





  17. #17
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    Air hammer goes a long way on press type wheel bearings if you have a compressor to support it. I often use a pointed bit to get the axles out of the hub when I can, sometimes also needing penetrant and rarely a torch. I switch to a chisel bit to remove the race that gets stuck on the hub, its tricky and takes a few times to get it down but works great. Getting the axle back in the hub on the other hand... That can be a pain. Just make sure the splines are COMPLETELY cleaned off and lubricated.

  18. #18
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    Dirty jobs like this, I give to my mechanic. He has a proper tool for pressing bearing. He also doesn't charge me for small things like this. (small for him, huge headache for someone without proper tools).

    When you guys are tackling stuff like this, check your local mechanics. Jobs like pressing are really cheap, considering how much time you'll spend doing it yourself. Just my 0.02

  19. #19
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graham E39 528i View Post
    This is the tool I am going to use:



    HF #66657

    "He who dies with the biggest puller, WINS"
    you dont need it and you dont want it

    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=522159

    Last edited by champaign777; 05-13-2012 at 09:39 PM.

  21. #21
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    wowwee the other side i did tonight sucked even worse!!!

    fyi buying a new hub really isnt going to help that much, you still have to remove the axle nut and push the axle in. The hub press part is actually the easiest part of the whole job.




    Yesterday the axle nut came off with no problem. Today i broke a 1/2" breaker bar and 3 different extensions!!! I even snapped a 3/4 drive!!! I even put PbBlaster on it everyday since last week.
    Boom headshot!



    and another one bites the dust!!!





    this is the way you get maximum push on the bar without a second person to make sure the socket doesnt slip. If it slips off it will most likely chip your wheel. With a four foot pipe and my 200lbs bouncing on it the nut just wouldnt break.



    Well im not the type to give up, turn around and go home so when even a flame thrower didnt help i decided to cut it off with a dremel. It took longer than a few hours in all to get this nut off. The dremlel eventually made a slot that smashed the hell out of with a carbide chisel unitl the nut loosened up. Once the slot was opened up a little the nut actually turned very easily.


    my slot never actually cut all the way thru to the other side





    here you can see the axle end after the nut and bearing is removed.


    i boogered the thread up a little with my chisel but to my surprise when i tested the new nut it spun right on perfectly! No need for thread repair to avoid stripping anything.

    The bearing bolts are so hard to break free. Its one of those things where you can just barely get the tools in there with a mishmash of extensions and adapter to make the tool just the right length and then you still can barely get your hands on the tool to get leverage. The best you will get in there is a 3/8 ratchet and it will take every once of strength to break them free. I think i gave up about 10 times before i was sucessful with the first one. Once you get them turned a 1/4 turn they are only finger tight the rest of the way.


    yesterday i put the new bearing on the hub using a gear puller. Today i tested out the 12 ton press ive been hiding on the second floor of the garage. Worked really well.

    i laid the old inner race on top of the bearing and then a socket on top of that to get pressure to the bearing while pressing it onto the hub. The trick is to only press the inner race. NOT the outter race or you will destroy the bearing.





    May i add that although some people have claimed to have done this job in record time, there is no telling how stuck together the pieces are going to be until your past the point of no return where you better have the appropriate tools to make it the rest of the way through. This is not a job for those that dont have a well stocked garage full of tools most people have never had nor is this a job for the casual diy'er. This bearing job ended up being hardcore and i dont recommend everyone trying to do it.
    This is the type of job that sucks so bad the garage calls you up and say" um its gonna cost a little more than what we discussed"
    Last edited by topaz540i; 05-13-2012 at 10:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by champaign777 View Post
    you dont need it and you dont want it

    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=522159
    Dude, that's the KGB method. That photograph was taken in Lubyanka Square.

    Quote Originally Posted by topaz540i View Post
    wowwee the other side i did tonight sucked even worse!!!

    fyi buying a new hub really isnt going to help that much, you still have to remove the axle nut and push the axle in. The hub press part is actually the easiest part of the whole job.




    Yesterday the axle nut came off with no problem. Today i broke a 1/2" breaker bar and 3 different extensions!!! I even snapped a 3/4 drive!!! I even put PbBlaster on it everyday since last week.
    Boom headshot!



    and another one bites the dust!!!





    this is the way you get maximum push on the bar without a second person to make sure the socket doesnt slip. If it slips off it will most likely chip your wheel. With a four foot pipe and my 200lbs bouncing on it the nut just wouldnt break.


    Tope, what make of tools are they?



    Anyway, shouldn't be a problem for me, I weigh 220
    Last edited by Graham E39 528i; 05-13-2012 at 11:18 PM.




  23. #23
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    i weigh 200 and i was bouncing on it.

    what brand are which tools?

    the gear puller and 350lb torque wrench are OEM brand i rented from Autozone.

    the 12 ton bottle jack press i bought on ebay for $150 last year.

    most of the broken tools were craftsman so i might get them replaced under lifetime warranty.

    my jackstands are duralast. they are only 2 1/4 ton though.
    i want to get the kind that screw up and down and have a rubber pad on top instead of the metal crotch.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  24. #24
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    The torx bolts have locktite from the factory, heat it up from the outside should be easier to break free after that.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by topaz540i View Post
    i weigh 200 and i was bouncing on it.

    what brand are which tools?

    the gear puller and 350lb torque wrench are OEM brand i rented from Autozone.

    the 12 ton bottle jack press i bought on ebay for $150 last year.

    most of the broken tools were craftsman so i might get them replaced under lifetime warranty.

    my jackstands are duralast. they are only 2 1/4 ton though.
    i want to get the kind that screw up and down and have a rubber pad on top instead of the metal crotch.
    Sorry, I mean't the tools that broke. Craftsman, hmmm. Not too good.

    Why replace them if they break?




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