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Thread: Oil cooler and other painted parts

  1. #1
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    Oil cooler and other painted parts

    Just thought I'd post a couple photos of some blasted/painted parts I have been working on while the block is out for blasting.







    Last edited by luminmiller; 03-26-2012 at 09:03 AM.

  2. #2
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    Wow those are clean

    So are you making the engine bqy show quality?

    "Never let the bastards wear you down!"




  3. #3
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    wish my "under the hood" looked half as good as that...

  4. #4
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    Great job, consider removing the paint from the threaded end of the water pump prior to installing the fan clutch.

  5. #5
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    The water-pump is a Stewart unit and I will be installing a two speed electric fan to assist with the cooling system so threads not needed. Don't worry all bolt holes wear tap/cleaned out.
    I have had a lot of time on my hands this winter and just have always wanted to build a clean engine.




    Out with the old (I was retarded and forgot to leave the leveler accessible:


    I was told today the block is clean/shiny out gassed and ready for pickup.
    I will post some pictures when I get it home.
    Last edited by luminmiller; 05-01-2012 at 01:45 AM.

  6. #6
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    The Pistons are finally done (Polished Ceramic coated tops, Dry-Film Sides, Teflon coated insides, and fully weight matched to .01 of a gram):



    I got the block and aluminum parts back from the blasters and have started to paint:




    The block has been sitting a couple days and is rusting like a mofo. I will take some photos when the rain stops and I can bring it outside for prep and paint.
    Last edited by luminmiller; 04-29-2012 at 02:01 AM.

  7. #7
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    Sad Valve:

    Happy valves:

    And a painted power steering pump with a power pulley:

  8. #8
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    Very nice! I am very impressed with the level of detail !

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackcat559 View Post
    Very nice! I am very impressed with the level of detail !
    Thanks this is my first chance at having a detail oriented build and want it to be clean.

    Today the sun is out and I will have a go at making an iron block look good.

  10. #10
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    Great work... can't wait to see the finished product. I had to tear into my M62 and began sandblasting|polishing|painting anything that looked worn.

  11. #11
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    Nice work - consider powder coating! Its a shame to see that paint after bead blasting! The paint doesn't tend to hold up very well on cast aluminum!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    Nice work - consider powder coating! Its a shame to see that paint after bead blasting! The paint doesn't tend to hold up very well on cast aluminum!
    I was considering this route with the accessories ever since I painted my M50.. about 1,000 miles later everything began to flake, even with the high temp paint

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Concrete Donkey View Post
    I was considering this route with the accessories ever since I painted my M50.. about 1,000 miles later everything began to flake, even with the high temp paint
    Yeah it's the sad truth. Not many want to hear it, but there's very few paints that hold up under the hood. Aluminum soaks up oil. So once you bead/sand blast it you think the part is clean. As soon as you go a few hundred miles with the engine up to temp the oil starts to boil out (out gassing) and lifts the paint. When the parts are powder coated, part of the prep is to bake the parts above operating temperature for about an hour to boil the oil out so once the motor is operating there shouldn't be any further seepage.

  14. #14
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    The same process doesn't occur once it's reinstalled?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Concrete Donkey View Post
    The same process doesn't occur once it's reinstalled?
    No - you out gas parts at say 500F. Your oil filter housing, for instance, will never see 500F (if it does you are having a bad, bad day). Same with valve cover, etc. You always bake the parts out a good amount above operating temp. This way, if oil wants to out gas at 300F, let it. If it wants to out gas at 400F, let it. If it wants to out gas at 500F, let it. But rest assured no out gassing will occur when the part is installed because your valve cover, for instance, never reaches 400 - 500F.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    No - you out gas parts at say 500F. Your oil filter housing, for instance, will never see 500F (if it does you are having a bad, bad day). Same with valve cover, etc. You always bake the parts out a good amount above operating temp. This way, if oil wants to out gas at 300F, let it. If it wants to out gas at 400F, let it. If it wants to out gas at 500F, let it. But rest assured no out gassing will occur when the part is installed because your valve cover, for instance, never reaches 400 - 500F.
    Got it. I was under the impression the oil would gas it's way through the metal a second time. Does the boiling process make the material non-porous (not sure if that's the right term) or simply build up it's tolerance as to which temp it gasses at (from my understanding of your explanation)?

    I pray my motor never reaches 500F

  17. #17
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    My parts were glass blasted and out gassed in prep for powder coat, but the cost was to much here in the netherlands (I miss car crazy California). I wish i could have gone powder but this high gloss aluminum silver looks nice and I hope it holds up.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by luminmiller View Post
    My parts were glass blasted and out gassed in prep for powder coat, but the cost was to much here in the netherlands (I miss car crazy California). I wish i could have gone powder but this high gloss aluminum silver looks nice and I hope it holds up.
    That's weird because 99% of the cost of powder coating is prep. It takes like 15 mins in an oven after all that prep. Oh well.

  19. #19
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    I wont go into to much detail but the company wanted me to come immediately after out gassing and mask the parts but didn't want me to use 3m powder coat tape. They wanted metal plates bolted on (which I custom made) but as the block and parts were very hot after outgas They told me I would not be able to do it fast enough for them to guarantee permanent powder adhesion.
    To say the least I was very disappointed.
    I sure hope after all this prep that the High Heat Motip Aluminum Silver I am using holds up :

    Block is soaked in a rust converter as it started to rust again while waiting for sunny day

    All rust is converted and ready for paint

    Aluminum silver sure is shinny in the sun





    I will get some HD closeups of block when I am done wet-sanding and finish coating.
    Last edited by luminmiller; 05-01-2012 at 09:39 AM.

  20. #20
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    Duuuude why in the world are you making metal covers?! Oh well, it is fun I guess but that's seriously overkill!

  21. #21
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    Covers were made to insure no glass or powder contaminated block.
    The glass blasting facility at the powder coaters could do whole fire trucks so they insisted on metal covers and a fancy sealant. Crazy overkill especially since they wouldn't coat afterwards... arg, Oh the things we do for our cars!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by luminmiller View Post
    Covers were made to insure no glass or powder contaminated block.
    The glass blasting facility at the powder coaters could do whole fire trucks so they insisted on metal covers and a fancy sealant. Crazy overkill especially since they wouldn't coat afterwards... arg, Oh the things we do for our cars!
    That's so weird. We tape up blocks for blasting and coating without issue.

  23. #23
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    O this looks like fun! I wish I had the down time to yank my m62tu and do this.

    I rebuilt a Ford 57 Y block V8 and painted up all the parts only thing is the engine still smells like paint out gassing.
    1999 BMW 540i Sport

  24. #24
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    I did a progressive wet-sand then respray.
    I am happy with the results.






    I am going on a 3 week surf holiday to the Caribbean, but will post more pictures when I return and start teflon coating internals.

  25. #25
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    Been Busy, but this weekend I got my teflon on!



    Vanos Rebuilt (+ REM coated gears) and oil side teflon coated

    Caps and tray studs coated

    Chain Guides Coated


    Block Shaved and deglazed with VAC plate


    Timing Cover prepped for teflon but I need it shaved first to match block

    I will hopefully have the inside of the block coated this weekend and I can begin the long awaited rebuild.
    Last edited by luminmiller; 07-23-2012 at 04:44 AM.

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