I used 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit.
Then I used car polish. This is the result.
At this point, everything is basically scratched, and entire lens is hazy.
BUT, you MUST use a power drill / orbital in that last step where you use plastic polish. *
Just wet sanding by hand is not enough:
After the final drilling step:
Last edited by OnTheFence; 07-25-2012 at 04:59 PM.
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Get some rubbing compound and a buffer for your drill.
2007 Carerra S
2009 E91
1990 Toyo PU - POS
2000 E39/5
1976 911
I wetsanded the entire time. I've done the cycle about 3 times.
Could it be that I skipped from 600 grit to 1000 grit?
Also, I do not have an orbital sander or attachment for a drill handy
(And the car is inoperable as it stands)
I only polished the lens by hand for a few minutes. Do you think this is the issue?
Or are those surface scratches something that need to be sanded out?
If people orbit buff their lenses for 5 mins, how long does that translate by hand?
About an hour? Holy sh*t that's going to hurt.
This headlight adjuster job has turned into an entire weekend affair (as expected)
If I can't get them clear, I am going to have to reassemble and just deal with this look until I can remove them another weekend. I need the car for work tomorrow.
Last edited by OnTheFence; 03-25-2012 at 01:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
When you moved to a higher grit, did you sand in the same direction or did you sand perpendicular to the last? IF you sanded in the same direction you are shooting yourself in the foot.
You have to sand perpendicular to the last grit or you are not removing the scratches from it.
When buffing it you also need to use a rubbing compound or actual polish. Car wax, spray wax etc. will not do anything.
I also recommend using a high speed buffer or one of the attachments for a drill. just be careful not to keep it in one placed for too long or you may melt the plastic.
It can be done by hand but you need use a good amount of pressure and speed.
Last edited by hon2bmw; 03-25-2012 at 01:22 PM.
Sigh. Every single DIY I read specifically said to ONLY go side to side for all grits. Now, I don't know who to believe. I guess the lenses look like sh*t, so I have nothing to lose. I'll try alternating the direction, and redo the entire process.
I am using both rubbing compound and polishing compound.
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
I don' think you have ruined your lenses yet. They just need a little tender loving care with the proper polish. I use Meguiars. I have a bottle of course and one of fine. Most auto shops now have similar products. The trick is not being too aggressive, especially if you are using a power tool. I just use a clean soft cloth by hand and I have had good results. You may need to be more aggressive since you actually sanded, but I expect you can get a good job with some patience. I have heard that sanding or too much buffing removes the protective outer coating of the lense but I have not noticed a problem with mine.
That looks like the first sand.
When you start out with a new grit, you have to sand in same direction and remove all the old ridges from last size. The more care the better the finish will come out.
So when you get to the 2000 grit you have to have it at 2000 grit scratches.
Than you need to use rubbing compound and polish it out, I used a foam sander pad with a very light surface and some 3m compound. When you do this wet the foam a bit and go at it. (I used a drill on slow) When your doing this you may see small white chunks appearing thats the dust from removing the 2000grit scratches.
After your done you dont have to but I'd suggest putting a clear lens coating protectant.
Last edited by fuzzynations; 03-25-2012 at 01:51 PM.
Ok, I went from 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000
Alternating the grain. Side to side. Next grit, up and down.
All scratches seem to be out, and now it's just a fine haze left.
Does this mean the only step that has gone wrong is the polishing step?
Here is what they look like. Is this about as good as they can get?
They are nowhere as clear as the top section. (Which is clear as new glass)
I am going to have to go with this, as I need the car tomorrow.
If you say it can get as good as the top section of the lens, then I'll revisit with an orbital buffer another weekend.
Last edited by OnTheFence; 03-25-2012 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Thanks!
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Hey man...u will only be moderately successful by hand and it will take 4ever.
Go get a buffer or borrow one, it will go MUCH faster and u will get the results u desire.
I use something called Fantastic Plastic Polish by Car Beauty Pro (P-58-22). The stuff kicks ass for a final polishing buff. Makes things look new again...
(Video being uploaded now-pass on the vid as u are getting better results)
Last edited by ViolinARC; 03-25-2012 at 02:14 PM.
'00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now
First I would never use 600,800. I believe is too rough. And make sure to use plenty of water while sanding it. Just keep sanding with 1000 evenly light pressure. Make sure u don't dry Sand cuz it scratches the plastic. Then after 5-10 min wet sanding 1000, jump to 2000. And same thing 5-10 min. If u really want it to look way better finish up with 2500 or finer sand paper. The most important process is patience. Work slow evenly and with lots of detail. At the end use meguiar plastic X clear coat polish stuff and u should be done.
Oh and add a little dish soap to the water to have a soapy solution.
Last edited by Mac Castle; 03-25-2012 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The moderate result I was pointing out. Your hands must be tired...use this for a final, clearer result. I've used lots of other products and this seems superior from my experience.Originally Posted by OnTheFence
Looking forward to completion of your successful project...
Great directions...+1 on the soapy water as it adds a slippery element and will stay wet longer.Originally Posted by Mac Castle
Last edited by ViolinARC; 03-25-2012 at 02:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
'00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now
I just used some plastx on mine and they came out really good.
I did by hand too, couldn't find any bonnets for my orbital.
Really happy with plastx for these hella headlights. I recommend you try it when you're done.
I think you just need encouragement man. You CAN do it!!!!!
'00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now
wow. that needs wooork.
Seriously, Depo clears, $120. Very good quality with new lenses (xenon matched!on my set) and hood gasket. $260 for clear headlights tails and sidemarkers. $50 for crystal fog light housings...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-00-BMW-E3...ht_1801wt_1031
"Never let the bastards wear you down!"
OnTheFence,
First, you didn't ruin the lenses. You're just not finished yet. You'll need to use a rubbing compound to remove the scratches left behind by the 2000 grit sandpaper. Note that car polish and rubbing compound are not the same. I think you'll need a fine cut rubbing compound.
Second, you can finish the job after the headlights are mounted. I suggest you reassemble the headlights and reinstall them so you can use the car tomorrow. When you have the correct rubbing compound and time to start working on the lenses again, just mask off the painted areas.
It will be a lot easier to get to the final clarity using a power tool. If you have an electric drill, you might want to find a 3 inch foam polishing pad that can be attached to the drill. The 3M kit comes with one. That might be available separately at some stores. If you choose to use the rubbing compound by hand, apply it in circular motions and remove with a microfiber towel. It will take a while, but you should be able to get the scratches down to the 4000 or 6000 grit level I think.
Steve
2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
BMWCCA Member #337964
idk.....the headlights are just the front covers and I think the turn signal is different.....and I know the tails on prefacelift have a different pattern in the body sheet metal....
youre a go for the side markers and fogs!
Perfect oem fit for prefacelift though. The tails almost match the hella ones perfectly
"Never let the bastards wear you down!"
You need to put more elbow grease on those lenses less you can get a buffer/polisher. You can do it.
Thanks for the tips, guys.
I did use both rubbing compound and polish. But, doing by hand just doesn't pack the punch this needs.
I will shelve the final step until I get an orbital and proper sponge attachment.
Am I ok with just PlastX for the final step, or should I get both a compound and polish?
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
Yep, use the PlastX.
Steve
2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
BMWCCA Member #337964
I would stay away from those Depo lenses posted above. I bought similar for my e46 and they hazed up pretty quick.
+1 on PlastX.
600 and 800 is a lil rough. It will never work by hand. You need a polisher/buffer as stated before. Compound the hell out of it, left and right back and forth and its going to take a long time even with a polisher. Worse comes to worse you can always sand it with a very high grit (wet sand) and spray two coats of clear on there.
Last edited by BMWTECH559; 03-25-2012 at 03:22 PM.
Bookmarks