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Thread: Z3 1.9 DIYs (will be continuously updated)

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monolith View Post
    Al's car (engine shot). I believe it's an M42 318 engine with metal thermostat housing.
    Yessir in an E36.
    Quote Originally Posted by KillerSE7EN View Post
    i thought the m42s had a wider/ different intake manifold? it looks like an m44, i believe those metal thermostats can be baught aftermarket or maybe swapped from a 91-95 3 series?
    Only on E30's
    M42's had metal thermo and oil housings.
    OP there are DIY's on the 1.9L's. I personally made one on how to replace it with a 2.8L years ago....

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    05 2.5 Z5
    Does it matter if it's 14 flutes or 15 flutes.

    I've seen 74mm with 15 flutes but the 74mm 14 flutes is harder to find.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    My Cars
    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328

    Post Fog Light Bulb Replacement

    Supplies:
    • Flat head screw driver
    • nut driver [10mm i think?]
    • 2x H7 bulbs
    • Dielectric grease


    All items can be purchased at your local AutoZone.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 1:
    stick the flat head in between the light housing and black cover. pull towards you and the whole thing will pop out.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 2:
    Find the 2 bolts and use an 8mm nut driver to remove them both.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 3:
    Remove the entire housing, pull the bolted side all the way towards you then slide the housing towards your license plate to remove.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 4:
    Remove the connector in the rear by pushing in the two side clips.




    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 5:
    pull the metal clip away from the housing then pull up on the same side to release the opposite end.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 6:
    Pull off the 2 blue connectors carefully. then undo the 2 clips holding in the bulb by pushing them down and in to allow them to spring up.










    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 7:
    remove the bulb and put in the new one, put dielectric grease on the prongs of the bulb and reinstall blue connectors. make sure the tab that sticks out on the bulb is in between the 2 pegs on the housing.

    reinstall the opposite way everything was removed and always test the lights before putting everything together.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    any Questions?
    Feel free to post
    Last edited by KillerSE7EN; 04-06-2012 at 11:41 AM.

  4. #29
    Join Date
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    '01 Z3.0 R; '13 MB Coupe
    Great write ups! When I replaced my oil filter it came with the big gasket but not the two little ones. I wonder why..


    Mods: Remus 76mm exhaust, CDV delete, ASA AR1 18in staggered wheels, Turner 12 mm spacers, custom red tails, Kenwood deck/Sirius/BT/USB, ZHP knob, Redline boot, LeatherZ armrest, Amsoil all around, red needles, Akebono Euro brake pads, 34k original miles!

  5. #30
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328
    Thanks!
    That's odd, wonder what brand was it?
    The big one is the most important one anyway.

    Hopefully I'll have a write up on replacing a cam position sensor in a week or two
    Last edited by KillerSE7EN; 03-25-2012 at 12:32 PM.

  6. #31
    Join Date
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328

    Post Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement

    Supplies:
    • 3/8 Torque Wrench [79-141 inch lbs]
    • 11mm Deep Socket
    • 10mm Socket
    • 11mm Box Wrench
    • 5mm Allen Wrench
    • Cam Position Sensor [12141743072]
    • Flat Head Screw Driver



      All Parts can be bought at either ecstuning.com, autohausaz.com or your local advance auto parts.


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 1:
    Use a flat head screw driver to loosen the two clamps holding on the intake boot.
    Remove the boot by pushing away then pulling off.
    Disconnect the hose on the bottom too.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 2:
    Disconnect the IAC, TPS, and vacuum line going to the fuel regulator [yellow]
    Then remove the single 11mm bolt holding the bracket to the upper intake [blue]






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 3:
    Remove the center bolt and two nuts pictured on the upper intake.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 4:
    Loosen Only! the single bolt near the firewall holding the bracket to the upper intake using an 11mm box wrench.
    Then lift up the intake carefully and place towards driver side.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 5:
    Locate the cam sensor in the front of the engine with a single 5mm allen bolt in it.
    loosen this bolt carefully and remove it.
    Next Remove the bolt holding in the sensor loom with a 10mm socket,
    also the loom is clipped in on the corner;
    you need to squeeze the pins to release it.
    i just broke mine :/










    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 6:
    Look in the spot where the upper intake was, you'll see a black box with 2 connectors in it.
    the one closest to the front of the engine is the cam sensor pigtail.







    Push the side clip in on the connector and use a flat head screw driver to pry it towards the engine.
    feed the wire to the front of the engine under the intake and then pull the sensor out of its hole in the engine front.






    Transfer the green O-Ring to the new sensor, Remove the loom from the old sensor and feed the new sensor wire into it.
    feed the connector back under the intake and grab it through the hole in the middle to pull it up to the connector.

    Always remember to push in the metal clip before re-plugging in sensors.
    Plug the connector in, bolt the loom back onto the engine and install the new sensor.

    i twisted mine as i pushed it to make the O-Ring seat properly, it will pop into place if you did it correctly.
    reinstall the bolt and hand tighten it.

    reinstall the upper intake and torque the top 3 bolts to 11 foot-pounds or 132 Inch-pounds.
    tighten the rear mount bolt and reinstall the front mount bolt and hand tighten.

    reattach the tps, iac and vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.

    reinstall the intake boot, tighten the clamps then reinstall the hose to the boot.
    Last edited by KillerSE7EN; 03-31-2013 at 10:27 PM.

  7. #32
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    Los Angeles, CA, USA
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    05 ZHP, 96 Civic, 96 Z3
    BOOKMARKED!

    This is great, everyone! Already found two DIY's that I need (oil change and fog light change). Thanks!

  8. #33
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328
    Quote Originally Posted by ImolaZHP View Post
    BOOKMARKED!

    This is great, everyone! Already found two DIY's that I need (oil change and fog light change). Thanks!
    Excellent! Glad the thread is helping

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Blackwood, NJ
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328

    Post PCV Valve Replacement

    Supplies:
    • 5mm Hex Wrench
    • Gloves
    • PCV Valve [11157501567]

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Places to buy pcv valves:

    autohausaz
    bavauto
    ebay if you must lol


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 1:
    Locate the PCV Valve near the firewall just behind the bottom of the upper intake manifold.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 2:
    Remove the 2 5mm hex bolts on each side of the valve located underneath.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 3:
    Lift the valve and pull it out of the single hose it's connected to.







    Last edited by KillerSE7EN; 04-06-2012 at 11:36 AM.

  10. #35
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    05 2.5 Z5
    What does the PCV valve do and how do you know when to replace it?

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by IgotBMW View Post
    What does the PCV valve do and how do you know when to replace it?
    It fails and sucks air and your idle goes to poo.

    Kill7 you make some very nice DIY's sir, much props.



    Cheers

  12. #37
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    Coupe, 997 Targa4S, 911
    To OP,

    Why replace the CPS? any current issues?

    Thanks....great write-ups

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by SWISS View Post
    It fails and sucks air and your idle goes to poo.

    Kill7 you make some very nice DIY's sir, much props.



    Cheers
    Thanks man!
    I like the explanation haha

    Technical answer:
    The PVC is used to regulate the amount of air that goes through the positive crankcase ventilation system. It's a one-way valve that changes airflow based on the engine speeds, also it filters out excessive amounts of crankcase gases. This gas is recirculated into the intake manifold then combusted by the engine.

    A broken PCV:
    Can effect the engine idle and shorten the engines life. I knew my PCV was bad because I had rough idle on cold starts only, and the part was original BMW, telling me it was never changed.

    I would suggest changing it maybe yearly.

    Overall it made a huge difference in idle, no more roughness
    Last edited by KillerSE7EN; 03-31-2012 at 01:42 PM.

  14. #39
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328

    Post

    Quote Originally Posted by spine911 View Post
    To OP,

    Why replace the CPS? any current issues?

    Thanks....great write-ups
    Thank you, I'll take this as an opportunity to explain how to track down our very common rough idle issues.


    When I first bought the car it had a rough idle that shook the whole car; this happened on cold starts and when the car was warmed up and idling.

    I first suspected spark plugs, so I replaced them all and found oil in cylinder 1 and 2; mostly in 1.
    I assumed this was the cause and replaced the valve cover gasket and tube seals; This only took away 50% of the rough idle.

    I then hooked a scanner to the car and saw pending codes for a misfire on cylinder 2, 3, and 4.
    With the constant rough idle still present, but not as bad (the car no longer shook as hard) I looked to the cam position sensor.
    Replacing the sensor cut my rough idles at operating temperature (ie. when the needle is in the middle of the temperature gauge) completely out.

    The car now only had a rough idle when the car was cold starting and not at operating temperature. Based on this I assumed something oil related; it also helped that I knew the PCV was not changed by the looks of it.

    Changing the PCV got rid of my cold start rough idle and gave the car back a lot of power. Everything together was causing the problem.

    To prevent this my only advice is to keep up on your cars maintenance.

    The car runs great and won't need these parts changed for a while

    Other things I want to change:

    Coil pack
    Plug wire set
    Engine coolant temp sensor/ sender
    Full brake job



    Other eventual write ups:
    Removing oxidation from engine and painting it
    Door handle gasket replacement
    Possibly interior door handle replacement
    Front kick panel speaker upgrades
    Wheel cleaning
    Running engine codes


    If anyone wants a write-up or has a question about the car, post it here

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Blackwood, NJ
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328

    Post Code Scanning

    Supplies:
    • OBDII Scanner



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 1:
    Go through the passenger door and
    locate the cover on the side of the Center Console.





    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 2:
    Open the cover by pulling from the bottom,
    Remove the dust cover to expose the OBDII Port.








    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 3:
    Plug in the Code Reader's connector.








    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 4:
    Insert your key and turn it 2 clicks, this is the "ON" position. [before the car starts]








    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 5:
    Read your codes!











    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    If their are any questions about what brand of scan tool to use or what a code means, post them here.

    I will be constructing a Code Database eventually.

    and visit the new site i've been working on. it has all of my write-up's, but in an easier to read and cleaner interface.

    Website is in my Signature!
    Last edited by KillerSE7EN; 04-06-2012 at 11:32 AM.

  16. #41
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    Millenium Falcon
    I have a few 1.9 related things I want to add to this. My clutch went out, and I had a hell of a time finding some info... I want to put it all in one place so it's easier for the next person. This seemed like a good place, being a 1.9 dedicated thread.


    Parts needed to do the clutch:
    1 Clutch Kit Your choice, but make sure it includes the throwout bearing and pilot bearing, or buy them separately if it doesn't
    1 Exhaust manifold gasket or 1 sheet of gasket material to cut your own
    6 Guibo Nuts 07129900047
    1 Spring Clip 21517570284
    1 Ball Pin 21511223328
    1 Cluth Release Fork 21511204229
    6 Clutch Mounting Screws 07119906045
    4 Exhaust Manifold Nuts 18301737774
    2 Rear Exhaust Bolts 07119906141
    2 Rear Exhaust Nuts 11621744323
    1 TOB Guide Tube 23117510016
    4 Guide Tube Bolts 23137545708

    This includes all of the internals that you could possibly need, as well as all of the hardware inside. Don't let a few 50 cent fasteners hold up your job. Buy new ones and save yourself the hassle. The OEM exhaust manifold gasket is too expensive for what it is, so I opted to cut my own.

    Although not the same trans or engine, Vinci's writeup will be the same procedure as the 1.9. Everything will look exactly the same.
    http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplassma/cj/cj.html

    I have not included the flywheel in the parts list because it is very expensive (~$400). Inspect it after you have removed the clutch. Look for grooving, cracks, and burns. Replace or resurface as necessary. In most cases, the flywheel will be acceptable to reuse as-is.


    As long as you're at it, you might as well change the transmission and differential fluids. I found that Amsoil got the most praise on here, so that's what I'm going with. The transmission takes 1.4 quarts, so order 2 quarts of the "Manual Syncromesh Transmission Fluid 5w-30". I couldn't find any exact capacity info on the differential other than that you should order 2 quarts. For a moderate climate, use "Severe Gear 75w-110". For hotter climates or more powerful motors, use 75w-140.


    If it hasn't been done recently, you should also replace the transmission to driveshaft coupler. Also called a flex disc or guibo. OEM part number is 26111227410. The nuts used to hold it on are one time use, and the part number for those is listed above (because you need them whether or not you replace the guibo itself).


    If you're really worried about fasteners, you can also order all new transmission to engine mounting hardware.

    2 Torx bolt 23001222891
    2 Torx bolt 23001222893
    3 ASA-Bolt 23001222887
    1 Hex bolt 07119904094
    2 Dowel 11117524470
    2 Torx bolt 07129904681


    Good service while you're under the car already is to replace your shifter bushings. This will get rid of the slop in the shifter. The procedure will be as shown in this article:
    http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...t_Bushings.htm

    Complete parts listing:
    1 Bushing Bearing Oval 25117507695
    1 Bearing Bolt 25111221849
    4 Plastic Washer 25111220439
    2 Securing Clip 25117571899
    1 Shift Lever Bearing 25111220600
    1 Gearshift Rod Joint 25111222688
    1 Lock Ring 25111222451
    1 Plastic Washer 25111434194
    1 Dowel Pin 23411466134
    1 Shifter Arm Bearing 25111222015

    The shift lever has a bushing integrated into the base that cannot be replaced separately. If you find that this bushing is worn, you have to replace the whole shift lever at a cost of about $60. Due to the cost, I have not included it in this list. The part number is 25117527252 if you find that this is necessary.

    If you don't want to do the full service, you should at least order some new hardware to replace the bits you have to remove when pulling the transmission. This includes 2 small clips, 4 plastic washers, and 1 larger clip.

    1 Bearing Bolt 25111221849
    4 Plastic Washer 25111220439
    2 Securing Clip 25117571899


    While searching for information on the transmission, you'll likely find a lot of talk about shift pin servicing. I was informed that this was a problem with the ZF transmission used on the 6 cylinder models- not the 1.9. Vinci has a great writeup on the ZF if you want to see what it's about, but it's useless for the 1.9 transmission. If you're experiencing unsatisfactory shifting on your 1.9, a fluid change and replacing the shift bushings will likely correct your problems.


    You may also be looking at how the master and slave cylinders can fail and what symptoms to look for. This thread has some good straight answers:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1825729
    Last edited by Kyle Anderson; 04-28-2012 at 01:24 AM.

  17. #42
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    Blackwood, NJ
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328
    Excellent write-up, thanks for adding to the thread!

    Would you like me to add this to my site? All credit for the write-up would go to you

  18. #43
    Join Date
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    Boston 'burbs
    Posts
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    '01 Z3.0 R; '13 MB Coupe
    Even though I don't have a 1.9 I really enjoy following this thread. Some of the items are applicable to all, like the fog lights. Great work OP!


    Mods: Remus 76mm exhaust, CDV delete, ASA AR1 18in staggered wheels, Turner 12 mm spacers, custom red tails, Kenwood deck/Sirius/BT/USB, ZHP knob, Redline boot, LeatherZ armrest, Amsoil all around, red needles, Akebono Euro brake pads, 34k original miles!

  19. #44
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    Millenium Falcon
    Quote Originally Posted by KillerSE7EN View Post
    Excellent write-up, thanks for adding to the thread!

    Would you like me to add this to my site? All credit for the write-up would go to you
    Yeah, I have no problem with that. Anything that makes it easier for other people.

  20. #45
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    Mar 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackjackM View Post
    Even though I don't have a 1.9 I really enjoy following this thread. Some of the items are applicable to all, like the fog lights. Great work OP!
    Thank you! I've been trying to get as many diys as possible into my site and here so people can use them

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Blackwood, NJ
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328

    Post Kick Panel Speakers and Sub Box Removal

    Kick Panel Speakers

    Supplies
    Flat Headed Screw Driver
    Phillips Head Screw Driver
    8mm Nut Driver



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 1
    Use a Philips Head screw driver to remove the Screw holding in the hood latch release.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 2
    Use a Flat Headed screw driver to turn the plastic screw to release the kick panel.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 3
    Remove the plastic screws on the right and left sides of the pedal cover and then remove it by pulling it down. [May have to release some hooks first]














    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 4
    Carefully pop up the drivers sill and pull the bottom lip of the kick panel free. Then grab the kick panel housing and unhook the footrest from the carpet and pull down and out to remove it. [careful may have sharp edges]






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Step 5
    With the Kick Panel removed you can remove the 4 Screws using an 8mm Nut Driver to remove the Speaker.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 6
    Pull on the Positive and Negative wire to remove them.






    \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\



    Sub Woofer Box

    Supplies
    Phillips Head Screw Driver
    10mm Deep Well Socket
    T20 Torx Driver/ Allen Wrench



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 1
    Lower Soft Top/ Remove Hard Top.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 2
    Move Seats all the way foreword.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 3
    Remove Front Speaker grill.






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 4
    Open Sub lid then remove the 2 screws inside the box, one on each side.










    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 5
    Remove Center console tray [under sub cover] then remove the two screws at the top.










    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 6
    Pop off the 3 dust covers then remove the screws under them. [may need to pull your soft top out of the way] then pull up and remove the box enclosure.










    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 7
    Remove the 10mm Bolts holding the sub enclosure onto the brackets. [2 on each side]






    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 8
    Remove the sub box connector by pushing on the button and flipping the lever up.










    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 9
    [Not Pictured] remove the screws around the front of the sub box using a T20 Torx driver them remove the front cover of the sub box.



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Step 10
    remove the 4 Philips head screws to remove the sub. [Note: this is a Dual Voice Coil Sub, hence 4 wire connections]


    Last edited by KillerSE7EN; 05-03-2012 at 12:14 AM.

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Blackwood, NJ
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328

    Updates!

    Many DIYs added to the website, Feedback welcome!

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Blackwood, NJ
    Posts
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    96 Z3/ 04 325/ 11 X328
    DIYs added to the site; as well as, a blog about finding rough idle. I added a little extra in there, a chance to have me photoshop a picture for you of whatever you want. check the website for more info or post on here.

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    SoCal
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    Z3, M5
    Nice job!

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Seattle WA
    Posts
    130
    My Cars
    1998 M Roadster
    I like it!
    Mods: Whalen seat bushings/Glove box fix/LeatherZ arm rest/
    Washington state Z's area rep.

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