Top things you'd replace (sight unseen) for a 100k E39 that's "never" been serviced?

[OnTheFence]

Let's say you are thinking of buying a 2001-2003 E39 . It's been owned by a proper owner, but he's simply never had to do anything to fix it. He thinks it's a great car, and may or may not recognize that it's going to need a heap of servicing for the next 100k miles. In theory, say you bought a car that simply was never serviced beyond oil/tires/brakes. What can you look out for? Let's make a list!

Engine:

1. Air filter
2. Cabin air filter
3. New wipers
4. New Battery
5. New tires
6. Change all fluids: Differential oil, transmission oil, flush power steering fluid
7. Cooling system; water pump, radiator, thermostat and housing,
8. Sepentine belt, tensioners, pulleys, fan, fan clutch
9. Oil leaks: Oil Filter Housing Gasket leak, Valve Cover gasket leak.
10. Replace broken headlight adjusters
11. New brake pads and rotors
12. Bleed brake fluid
13. Replace all vacuum lines
14. Spark plugs & boots
15. Fuel filter
16. Replace power steering reservoir and hoses
17. Replace entire front suspension: Struts, control arms, thrust arms, sway bar bushings, etc.
18. Change DISA value (flap breaks)
19. SAP valve (Secondary Air Pump)
20. Engine and transmission mounts
21. Replace VANOS seals
22. Fix cluster pixels

Things you can replace before they fail:

1. MAF Sensor
2. O2 sensors (pre-cat)
3. Intake boots
4. Alternator
5. Fuel fump
6. Replace coils
7. Camshaft and Crankshaft Position Sensors

Set aside money for these possible failures:

1. Fix ABS Module
2. New Window Regulators
3. FSU (Final Stage Unit) Errant blower motor
4. CCV - Gets clogged. Rough idle
5. Center support bearing (CSB)
6. Guibo
7. Rebuild transmission
8. Catalytic Converters
9. New exhaust
10. A/C compressor
11. Broken sunroof

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=14
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...4&postcount=11
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...29&postcount=6

[jamesdc4]

• Cooling system
• CCV valve and hoses.
• All 4 window regulators?
• Oil gaskets? (Oil filter housing?)
• ABS module
• Battery
• Valves? (Specifics?)
• Suspension? (Specifics?)

You ask a tough question. Part of me wants to be conservative because of force of habit, but if you're trying to insure your wife doesn't have to deal with any issues, I don't know if that's really possible with a ten year old car. I'm sure you've read the threads where members state they almost always have a warning light or issue constantly. I've had my 540 for over three years and there were stretches of time that I had no issues, but it really is a crap shoot.

If you're tryng to stack the odds in her favor, we'd need to know some specifics.
What kind of E39? The model and year are important in trying to determine what needs replacing.
Automatic or manual transmission? Also important.

Without that info, I'd venture a couple of guesses in addition to your list...

- All fluids including Differential and Transmission
- All filters including Transmission and fuel
- All fuses
- Complete Engine Tune-up including replacing coils
- Valve Cover Gaskets
- Timing Chain Cover Gaskets
- Camshaft and Crankshaft Position Sensors
- Pre-cat o2 sensors
- Fuel Pump
- Center support bearing
- Guibo
- Complete suspension refresh
- Engine and transmission mounts
- Catalytic Converters
- FSU
- Ignition Switch
- Brakes pads and rotors
- Headlight adjusters
- Depending on the model, complete SAS overhaul.
- Depending on model, Vanos seals from Besian.
- Depending on model, Timing Chain Tensioner and Rails.
- Depending on model, Valley Pan gaskets.
- Check seat switch harness under driver seat for damage.
- Cup holders

Should I continue?

[edjack]

" 'never been serviced??' " Does that mean no oil changes, etc? If so, RUN AWAY!

[Armonk25]

I have an '02 540iT with 95K.

In addition to the things you note I would also have:
1. Flush and replace the brake fluid.
2. Change the transmission fluid.
3. Power steering hoses both high pressure and low pressure.

As fas as suspension I would not think that anything would suddenly fail -- it might become noisy or sloppy but give plenty or warning before it becomes dangerous. I did have to replace 1 air bag on my rear suspension but if you're looking for s sedan that is not a problem.
Oil gaskets and main seals front and rear can be a problem but again they shouldn't just fail -- they begin to drip and ooze before they fail.
The engine valves are self regulating so that should not be a problem. This is my second car with the V8 and these engines are very robust my 1998 740iL had over 130K on it and was still going strong.
Hope this helps.
Jay

[Cyrix2k]

battery & hoses.

[Gumbi4u]

I would replace the car and get a Japanese vehicle. I dotn care how much a bimmer is maintained, it will still find a way to cost you in the long run. I work on them all day long and have seen the most pristine and babied bimmer, and it will come in for the oddest thing. If future costs bother you, you are looking at the wrong car.

[jamesdc4]

battery & hoses.

Okay, so maybe my list is overkill, but are you serious?
If you're married, you must not care very much about your wife. I suppose if she didn't know how to swim, you'd throw her into the deep end and go have a cup of coffee.

[Gumbi4u]

Also looking at your other threads you started, you are better off with something else. You are trying to get something perfect for cheap. Plus you are buying these cars from total idiots who most likely never took care of their cars. If cost is indeed a huge factor in your decision, then you need to focus your priorities somewhere else.

[jamesdc4]

I would replace the car and get a Japanese vehicle. I dotn care how much a bimmer is maintained, it will still find a way to cost you in the long run. I work on them all day long and have seen the most pristine and babied bimmer, and it will come in for the oddest thing. If future costs bother you, you are looking at the wrong car.

<Voice of Reason>

[bimmerfiver]

Buying ANY BMW with 100K miles which hasn't had a LOT of re-fresh/replaced parts?

Bad
Idea.

You're buying Season 1 of 'Gold Rush'. That's what yer getting.

[hon2bmw]

Another one of these threads, is there anyone that can combine all these into one for sanity's sake?

[champaign777]

You ask a tough question. Part of me wants to be conservative because of force of habit, but if you're trying to insure your wife doesn't have to deal with any issues, I don't know if that's really possible with a ten year old car. I'm sure you've read the threads where members state they almost always have a warning light or issue constantly. I've had my 540 for over three years and there were stretches of time that I had no issues, but it really is a crap shoot.

If you're tryng to stack the odds in her favor, we'd need to know some specifics.
What kind of E39? The model and year are important in trying to determine what needs replacing.
Automatic or manual transmission? Also important.

Without that info, I'd venture a couple of guesses in addition to your list...

- All fluids including Differential and Transmission
- All filters including Transmission and fuel
- All fuses
- Complete Engine Tune-up including replacing coils
- Valve Cover Gaskets
- Timing Chain Cover Gaskets
- Camshaft and Crankshaft Position Sensors
- Pre-cat o2 sensors
- Fuel Pump
- Center support bearing
- Guibo
- Complete suspension refresh
- Engine and transmission mounts
- Catalytic Converters
- FSU
- Ignition Switch
- Brakes pads and rotors
- Headlight adjusters
- Depending on the model, complete SAS overhaul.
- Depending on model, Vanos seals from Besian.
- Depending on model, Timing Chain Tensioner and Rails.
- Depending on model, Valley Pan gaskets.
- Check seat switch harness under driver seat for damage.
- Cup holders

Should I continue?

This is 10,000$ BILL haha

[fudman]

Let's say you are thinking of buying a 2001-2003 E39.

You've buying this car for your wife, and then leaving the country for 1 year

A bad idea. When you return, she'll have left you, probably for the sweet indy who took such good care of her, in your absence!

[fuzzynations]

I think the big things too look for are, checking for receipts for suspension refresh and cooling system (radiator, water pump). If it has not been done, you'll want it.


It's a car, they all break. This one you got hundred people backing you up with how to fix it, and it's amazing to drive. Doesn't matter what brand you get you'll need sensors, and hoses, and belts, and breaks.



If your not sure take it to a bmw mechanic and say hey what will this car need to perform in tip-top shape. Of course after you found the one you love =)


for me, my 528i bought at 95,000 now have 115,000

front o2 sensors
and a stabilizer link bar
5-6 hoses including high pressure P/S hoses
a thermostat and a radiator
FSU
rear breaks & rotors
Emergency break pads & spring kit


and although its not 100% needed, this is my want list
a/c compressor failed
suspension tired but not failed yet.



I suggest you check out this page I feel it's very accurate on the common fixes for these e39 cars, in a very organized neat display.

http://www.540i6.com/probsfixes.html

[Cyrix2k]

Okay, so maybe my list is overkill, but are you serious?
If you're married, you must not care very much about your wife. I suppose if she didn't know how to swim, you'd throw her into the deep end and go have a cup of coffee.

Yes, I'm serious. Most of the other stuff is outside your control without spending serious money revamping *everything* so if the decision is to drive the e39, that's exactly what I'd replace. They're the most common points of failure that would leave the car sitting.

- All fluids including Differential and Transmission - I'd skip the diff
- All filters including Transmission and fuel -ok
- All fuses -why on earth would you do that?
- Complete Engine Tune-up including replacing coils -again, why replace coils?
- Valve Cover Gaskets - replace when failed
- Timing Chain Cover Gaskets- replace when failed
- Camshaft and Crankshaft Position Sensors- replace when failed, not a part sensitive to operating time
- Pre-cat o2 sensors - probably due for replacement but won't leave the car sitting
- Fuel Pump - replace when failed
- Center support bearing- replace when failed
- Guibo- replace when failed
- Complete suspension refresh- replace when failed
- Engine and transmission mounts- replace when failed, but agree they're probably due
- Catalytic Converters- replace when failed, should be lifetime if everything else is good
- FSU- replace when failed
- Ignition Switch- replace when failed
- Brakes pads and rotors- replace when failed AND the car tells you when they should be replaced!
- Headlight adjusters- replace when failed
- Depending on the model, complete SAS overhaul. - probably a good idea for rubber components
- Depending on model, Vanos seals from Besian.- replace when failed
- Depending on model, Timing Chain Tensioner and Rails.- replace when failed
- Depending on model, Valley Pan gaskets. - replace when failed
- Check seat switch harness under driver seat for damage.
- Cup holders[/COLOR]

^my notes above. There's a lot of stuff on your list that you're suggesting to be needlessly replaced. Most electronic components are not even sensitive to operating time/age so replacing them won't help reliability and may even decrease it due to infant mortality of new components. Seals will not leave the car sitting and do not make it unsafe to drive unless leaking profusely; they should be replaced when signs of degradation are present but there is no need to do so on a preventative basis. The car (*any* car) should be regularly inspected and worn/failed components replaced. Most items fail over time and with ample warning (the exception being hoses, battery, possibly radiator).

The OP did not state mileage to be driven which also plays a huge factor, more so than the time. Over the course of a year, there's no way to anticipate all failures and new components do not guarantee reliability. A good example here would be my water pump; the first one lasted 140k miles, the second 24k miles (over a year at that time, but less than a year for me now). Had my water pump been replaced at 80 or 100k miles, it actually would have resulted in a reduction of reliability.

[OnTheFence]

Just to clarify, this was theoretical. I am not married, and I'm not leaving the country for a year. I just wanted to know the top things a person should expect to replace when buying a 100k car that has had very little done to it. I looked at a few of these, but what steered me clear was looking at one that had a ton of stuff replaced (rotors, cooling system, suspension parts, bulbs, oil seals, etc) This made me realize the other "virgins" would probably need a lot of $$$ invested shortly after buying. I bought the one with higher mileage, but that had a lot of work already invested. Thanks for the list.

As for the mods comment, after some time reading this forum, I better understand that these cars require more repairs and money. I'm not expecting perfection for cheap, but I wanted to know I wasn't getting in over my head ($5k in repairs a year, etc) I think I found a balance that should hopefully work for me, in buying a 2001 for $6k that was maintained well. I have lots of room to work with, while driving a very nice car. I also hope to learn how to maintain these cars, and just be more aware of things in general, to avoid getting ripped. This forum is great. Thanks.

Think the O2 sensor should be added to the list? I think this is a job I could tackle, and I think my car with 120k has never had them done.

[OnTheFence]

I will replace the following for my first project:
Spark Plugs
O2 sensor
Fuel filter
Air filter
MAF
CPS

[Anthony1406]

id just suggest going with one that has higher miles but has had most of repairs /replacement done to it.

Mine for example has 155k miles but nearly every mechanical component (besides the engine and tranny ) is new or recent replaced. And it would still be cheaper then to buy one with lower miles.... .

[James39]

Engine, transmission and cooling system should all be replaced

[saakey]

fix nothing unless it's broken... my motto

[sfgearhead]

I will replace the following for my first project:
Spark Plugs
O2 sensor
Fuel filter
Air filter
MAF
CPS

Good choice on the car, going with the higher miles but well maintained.

Good start on the list. I would drop the MAF and CPS, they don't fail that often. Add more maintenance in. Flush the differential and brakes. Change oil and filter. Basically perform an Inspection 2, which is all fluids and filters.

Plugs and O2 sensor are good idea. I would also start replacing rubber parts, like belts, cooling hoses (at least the upper rad hose), brake lines, fuel lines, etc.

Start saving for the cooling system overhaul if not recent.

Have fun!

[jamesdc4]

A bad idea. When you return, she'll have left you, probably for the sweet indy who took such good care of her, in your absence!

Yes, I'm serious. Most of the other stuff is outside your control without spending serious money revamping *everything* so if the decision is to drive the e39, that's exactly what I'd replace. They're the most common points of failure that would leave the car sitting.


^my notes above. There's a lot of stuff on your list that you're suggesting to be needlessly replaced.

Yes. I'm well aware my list is overkill. I made it that way on purpose to make a point, and to take the OP literally. My point was, "if you want your wife in a dependable vehicle that won't break down, you almost have to buy a new car, and even then, she may still have problems".

[ElleShooTiger]

A stock, high mileage E39 is the kind of car you buy your wife, the day before you file divorce papers.

[jamesdc4]

Good choice on the car, going with the higher miles but well maintained.

Good start on the list. I would drop the MAF and CPS, they don't fail that often. Add more maintenance in. Flush the differential and brakes. Change oil and filter. Basically perform an Inspection 2, which is all fluids and filters.

Plugs and O2 sensor are good idea. I would also start replacing rubber parts, like belts, cooling hoses (at least the upper rad hose), brake lines, fuel lines, etc.

Start saving for the cooling system overhaul if not recent.

Have fun!

In my experience, the CPS and MAF issues are common, and if one or the other fails, the wife could very easily find herself with a no start issue. Of course if they are on their way out and are functioning intermittently, it can cause air/fuel mixture problems which can lead to premature o2 sensor failure and eventually failed cats. Perhaps paranoid, but that's what happens when you see issue after issue with our aging cars.

[OnTheFence]

How hard is it to replace the transmission fluid?
How hard is it to replace the differential fluid?
(Also, could either of these be done at JiffyLube?)

As for MAF and CPS, are they basically "known" to fail by 125k? If so, I would add them to my theoretical list. For both, a symptom they are failing is a bad idle / rough motor, correct?