DSP speaker upgrade Boston + Kicker

[James39]

So, I've purchased 2 sets of Boston SE50 component speakers, and 2 Kicker CVR-10's (the 4ohm dvc version).

So far, I've only replaced the driver side door mid-bass and tweeter. The sound clarity/quality coming out of the drivers' side door vs. passenger side door is night and day.

Between the 2 doors, there is no comparrison. Factory speakers sound like total trash compared to the door with the Boston tweeter/mid-bass installed (And the SE50's are probably not considered a high-quality speaker to begin with)

Kicker 10" subs will be fitted in the rear deck much like the M-Audio 10" factory subs. My stock Nokia box is going away for good.

If you are thinking about replacing the factory mid-bass/tweeters with something aftermarket, don't be afraid that you won't be pleased with the increase in quality/clarity, that's all I can say for now!

For a little under $400, I can't see the point of new amps and new head units with sound this good (well, except when fooljam's unit comes out... then a headunit upgrade would be worth it)

I can't wait to get the rest done!

[AnotherGeezer]

Factory speakers sound like total trash.

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[James39]

/Thread

Yeah, but now I've heard the difference myself... And so far, I think I'll be totally pleased with going thre frugal route, instead of the much more expensive e39 speaker replacement alternatives...

[AnotherGeezer]

It is good to hear that there are efficient alternatives to the BSW stuff.

[kswist24]

what size speakers go's for the front doors? also the rear speakers. did you get rid of them completely? or switch them out with a different type?

[James39]

If you buy 2 sets of 5 1/4" component speakers of your liking (make sure the woofers are not too deep)

It will replace:
both tweeters in the front doors
both tweeters in the rear doors
both mid-bass in the front doors
both mid-bass in the parcel shelf/trunk deck (whatever you want to call it)

So, you are left with:

2 factory mid-range in the front doors (no replacements available)
2 5 1/4" factory "subwoofers" in your stock subwoofer box. You can replace these with something else, but I'm chosing to remove the factory subwoofer all together and do an M-audio like infinite baffle setup.

Many have said that it's hardly worth swapping out the rear shelf mid-bass speaker because your new subs should just totally overpower them, but since I have them, I'll go ahead and put them in.

This is all assuming that you have a factory DSP stereo.

[Schitzo]

Good to know these work well. My stockers are so pathetic even NPR sounds awful through them.

[bigjoe87865]

I have desires to upgrade my audio somehow, just not too knowledgeable on audio in general.

I want to start off with some sort of speaker replacement + add a simple sub. Then maybe amp replacement if its required. maybe save up for a decent nav system (hopefully fooljam's is perfect for my needs)

A little confused about which speakers aside from BSW, what my limitations are with the disliked DSP option that I have.

Is it worth it to upgrade to > 5.25" speakers on the door? iv read it makes a big difference but you would need to have a custom mount and what not.

[James39]

The 5.25" speakers are a bolt-on operation in the front, and I'd assume the same for the rear. It's pretty basic. The tweeters in the front door are a little tricky to get mounted behind the interior trim, but not that bad. I used a radiator hose clamp that I cut to lenth and drilled holes in it to mount it. It was pliable enough that I could bend it where I needed it to go, and it' not going to fall off or rattle around in there.

The rear door tweeters were simple. I removed the factory ones and used a screw driver to tweak the tweeter cover out on the new ones so the factory clips would grab it. Very simple and secure The boston tweeters are a little larger than the stock ones on the front, and slightly smaller than the ones in the rear.

I can't tell you anything about other brands or series of speakers that would fit.

All 4 doors are done. I give it a 5-star upgrade for cost/benefit.

The factory amp seems to be putting out plenty of volume, if anything I'll add an amplifer to the 10" subs, but I've read several reviews about replacing the Nokia box with M-audio subs, and the results were positive, so we'll see how it goes.

I still think DSP gets a bad rep. A few worthy speakers and maybe 20 minutes playing with the EQ, and it sounds pretty good for 12+ year old technology...

[SMP05]

Is the wiring pretty straight forward for wiring to a DSP car?

[James39]

Very much so. The tweeters need to be soldered (or crimps). The woofers in the front door you can just use the existing wires and clip them right on the new speakers.

I'm assuming the 5.25 mid-bass woofers in the rear deck will be the same as the front doors were.

I know the factory subs in both the Nokia or M-audio variety are dual voice coil, so I just made sure to get dual voice coil subs to replace them.

[James39]

Wow, the subs really pound!! Not a straightforward install though...

Bass is much more intense and sounds much cleaner. Such a remarkable transformation...

[jdjg]

I want to know its gonna be a huge upgrade from the M Audio speakers (different from the DSP Hi Fi speakers) to the James39 setup????
For me, I´m very satisfied with the M Audio speakers.......

For now, my next upgrade, take off the Nokia box and put the M Audio subs

[James39]

I want to know its gonna be a huge upgrade from the M Audio speakers (different from the DSP Hi Fi speakers) to the James39 setup????
For me, I´m very satisfied with the M Audio speakers.......

For now, my next upgrade, take off the Nokia box and put the M Audio subs

The only reason I went aftermarket is price. Coudn't tell you how the ones I selected compare to factory M-audio subs, but I'd imagine mine are better

[1st3series]

Audio noob question-
how do i know if I have a dsp audio system

[jdjg]

The only reason I went aftermarket is price. Coudn't tell you how the ones I selected compare to factory M-audio subs, but I'd imagine mine are better

no, I mean I have ALL M-Audio speakers, nut just only the SUBS!!!!, the M-Audio Speakers are different from the HiFi speakers that you have (all the car that came with the DSP amp came with the HiFi speakers)......

I want to compare the M-Audio speakers with aftermarket speakers, in this case, with you Boston speakers!!!

thanks!!!

Audio noob question-
how do i know if I have a dsp audio system

very simple, in your MID radio have the DSP button? or you can check your rear AMP, and see how many plugs have, if only have 2 plugs, you DO NOT have the DSP amp, the DSP amp came with 3 plugs!!!

cheers,

[XDewa2008]

Wow, the subs really pound!! Not a straightforward install though...

Bass is much more intense and sounds much cleaner. Such a remarkable transformation...

James, what trouble did you find in installing the aftermarket subs to the DSP amp?

[James39]

James, what trouble did you find in installing the aftermarket subs to the DSP amp?

No problems connecting subs to the amp. The stock subs are also dual voice coil, so it was a 1:1 hookup.

The problem is mounting the subs to the rear deck. I got creative with some 3/8 fuel line and some window weatherstrip. In a few areas that still didn't seal well, I used real duct tape (the metal stuff). Also used the metal tape to seal off the trunk from the car interior. Don't know if it's needed or not, but I had it apart, so I figured I might as well do it.

I plan on cutting holes in the carpet cover for the nokia and putting that back on just to cover up some of my handywork

[XDewa2008]

No problems connecting subs to the amp. The stock subs are also dual voice coil, so it was a 1:1 hookup.

The problem is mounting the subs to the rear deck. I got creative with some 3/8 fuel line and some window weatherstrip. In a few areas that still didn't seal well, I used real duct tape (the metal stuff). Also used the metal tape to seal off the trunk from the car interior. Don't know if it's needed or not, but I had it apart, so I figured I might as well do it.

I plan on cutting holes in the carpet cover for the nokia and putting that back on just to cover up some of my handywork

Nice! I was thinking of using the Nokia box to create a fiberglass mold (so I can use stock mounting points) and modifying it to accommodate bigger subs, and maybe paint it black

[01msport5]

I have DSP and will be doing the front component replacement as stated by James39. Are the crossovers ditched in favor of the DSP system seperating signals to the component speakers?

My other question has to do with subwoofer replacement...

I have the Nokia box which as far as i've read has 4 - 5.25" midbass drivers. I'd like to nix the box all together and build a custom cabinet similar in size to the Nokia with 2 shallow 10's.

Where do I pull a good audio signal for a monoblock amplifier that is going strictly to subwoofers? I have done some extensive searching and can't seem to find the right answer (I always end up sidetracked in LS engine swap threads for w/e reason lol )

[James39]

Yeah, if keeping DSP, just hook up the speakers to the existing wiring.

The nokia box has 2 5.25 speakers in it. There are 2 additional 5.25's in small boxes right under the parcel shelf.

Can't help with the other question

[alexkid]

This is one of the most straight forward and honest posts regarding "dsp" upgrades.

I can't tell you how many audio shops quoted me anywhere from 1000 / 3000 bucks to supposedly replace all the wiring and upgrade the speakers.

I installed the following with James information

5.25 fanatic x components front
5.25 mb quartz rear

The sound difference is ridiculous and this is running off the stock dsp amp, it's apparent the oem speakers are absolute trash.

The rear trunk "subs" are 2x5.25 and yes they are complete garbage as well. Leave the box as is and install two small 8" subs and call it a day

Next project is trying to figure out how to get the new dynavin to work with dsp

[James39]

Did you do the subs?? I couldn't believe the bass they put out

All I need to do is figure out how to up the stock subwoofer crossover frequency to 80 or 90. There is a little bass missing at times, but it's no deal breaker. I'm wondering if recoding the amp to m-audio specs will change the subwoofer behavior...

What I need to know is... do cars that came with M-audio subs play bass between 40-100hz through the factory 10" subs? Or are they relying upon the mids for this (like factory non-m audio DSP systems???)

[alexkid]

I swapped out the oem junker "woofers".

From what I know, all dsp amps have the same wattage and frequencies. I originally had a dsp amp that was recalled (the unit was defective from the factory and would constantly draw power, killing the battery).

I purchased a dsp amp years back on the forums from an m5 and there was no difference.

Best bet is to ask that user from the UK, forgot his damn nickname but he has a killer audio setup in his 5er. He knows everything about car audio

DennisCooper

[zman]

This sounds really easy and seems to be an attractive option for little $$-
I'm interested in doing the speaker upgrades without the subwoofer. Was there any door panel removal involved? Do the speaker grilles and tweeter grilles come off easily?