2001 525i with navigation, Yesterday after fixing my valve cover I power washed my engine. The car started running rough due to water on spark so the battery died while trying to crank so the car went to Emergency deactivation wait 9:59 as if i put code in it to disable it. I tried what the owner manual say got new battery disconnect the battery for 5 min. then connect alarm sounds key in 1 position waited for more than 10 mins but the timer dont count back its on 9:59 no count back the car would not start. I am sure this happen to most e39 owners I really need ur help please. I called two different dealers they didnt even told me about the rest found on the owner manual they want me to bring it in. and I refuse to do that I know I can fix it with the forum.
never see any deactivation wait like you described
looks like someone coded access on your car
try to check in owner manual , when i had honda accord i found this 5 digit code
on the one of OM pages
Last edited by champaign777; 10-26-2011 at 09:05 PM.
no no one did code it, it is security future which immobilize the car if you put the security code your self. BUt this time i did not put the code, the car was working fine the battery died then it brought the code. I changed new battery did the manual procedure still no luck
Sounds like you are doing it according to the book. Pulled this off of M5BOARD.com
Maybe try again.
Emergency deactivation:
If you have forgotten the code, proceed
as follows:
1. Disconnect the battery, wait approx.
2 minutes, then reconnect it. Note
that on vehicles with an alarm, this
will sound.
2. Place the ignition key in position 1:
The time display will count down for
the next ten minutes.
3. After ten minutes, start the engine.
i did try that MD it didnt work but i will try it now again. thanks
I found this with the lock/unlock added, maybe?
disconnect battery
reconnect (alarm will go off)
lock
unlock
key in ign for ten mins
i thought i know everything about my 525i ...
Emergency deactivation ? what the hell is this ... looks like you screw up something with this security code
maybe some friend/indy with GT1 can help
also don't forget to remove and clean your spark plugs
Last edited by champaign777; 10-26-2011 at 09:53 PM.
Now the remote key is not working so i have to open it manually with the key. MD i tried the sequence didnt work. so you mean to turn the key to lock and unlock for ten min. straight?
I did clean the spark plugs and the coils. champaign I thought i knew as well just like life this dame cars throw curve ball when u least expect it. I didnt screw nothing all i did is wash the engine nothing related with security, the low battery is what triggered it I read similar issue with other users but they did not post how they fixed it.
Last edited by 51mike; 10-26-2011 at 10:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I don't want to be a buzz kill but be careful when playing with pulling the cable off the battery on and off repeatedly. When I worked on the windows and had to repeatedly disconnect the battery cable, it went into "transport mode" and disabled a bunch of systems. That may be the reason why your key's wireless is not working anymore. Sometimes playing with the battery like that can also fry your GM3 module.
one way around this possibly is to update your sw on you nav unit to the final version. It will automatically remove the code start function. You will need a key cd and then the last sw ver you can update it too. Its listed that it will remove the code feature while adding some other feature. http://www.bimmernav.com/BMW_GPS_Nav...formation.html http://www.e38.org/nav/ you gotta do the homework yourself though
tmi how do i get it out from transport mode?
Although I have never done this myself I think the idea is to lock it then unlock it with the key after disconnecting the battery then turn key to position 1 to start countdown.
First I want to say thank you or everyone that tried to help me. After almost a week of not having car and dealing with dealers finally they got my car running. SO Here is the solution, I change my CLUSTER DUE TO BAD PIXEL SO THE COMPUTER WAS NOT READING IT AS SOON AS THEY CHANGE THE ORIGINAL CLUSTER BACK EVERYTHING WAS FINE. SO IF YOUR CAR WOULD NOT COUNT DOWN I WOULD FIRST START WITH THE CLUSTER. HOPE THIS HELPS OTHERS WITH SAME PROBLEM. =)
Bringing this thread back from the dead:
I’m having the same problem. I recently replaced the cluster in my 530i5 with the used, mileage zero’d cluster from my old 530iA (RIP). The mileage was zeroed out by Fixels (blackknight530i). I tried resetting the cluster with cluster test 21 because I could not access the “prog” menu; the one where you can select the OBC options you want to display in the IKE. After resetting the cluster, I had the “Code” feature pop up, and I cannot deactivate it.
Trying to wait the 10 minutes, but it is not counting down. Is that normal?
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
Waited 10 minutes, still not working.
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
Pressure washing modern cars is to be avoided, because of all the electrical connectors and modules.
If you absolutely MUST wash the engine, use a citrus cleaner to loosen the crud, and a gentle spray from the hose to rinse. Warm the engine first (not up to operating temp).
Last edited by edjack; 10-06-2018 at 03:24 PM.
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
Nate J.
(oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
(eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-
RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.
I agree. Don't go whacko and put the pressure nozzle right up against any electrical or sealing surface, use yer damn brain about it basically and it should be fine, aka I'll use the p-washer 'firmly' sure on the fender walls and other hard surfaces like that... on the engine and particularly near any kind of connector or seal, I'll back it really far off so its essentially probably less than garden-hose-pressure... but if its all hard-parts and there's some residual grime you can try to get in there a bit more...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Hey all, to get the counter working try re-coding the cluster with NCSExpert in the expertmode profile. This happened with me when I swapped my BM module.
-Chris
Bookmarks