I Run Castrol Edge with Syntec Technology Full Synthetic 5W-50 Motor Oil . Cold Starts are fast plus get 2 mph more over conventional 20w50 at 3000 rpms.
Product Features:
- Compatible with all conventional and synthetic motor oils
- Advanced additives neutralize corrosive particles, preventing them from forming power-robbing sludge
- Provides stability and endurance under extreme conditions, including heat, load and speed
- Exceeds API Service SM, SL, SJ and CF; exceeds ACEA A3/B3; meets engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2; meets catalyst/emission system compatibility requirements of ILSAC GF-4/GF-3/GF-2; meets Ford WSS M2C931-A
- Made in the USA
Last edited by 320iAman; 10-20-2011 at 11:02 AM.
GTX Dino Oil 20w-50, thats what the machinest said I must use, and do not use synthentic.
MaxLife 20-50 in summer, 10-40 winter.
How's the new sales job at Castrol working out?
Eric P.
said under the hood of my 320 to use 20w50, so thats what i used.
1991 BMW 325i(Current Daily) (S52)
I have carburetors, and I'm not afraid to use them!
There are always other fish (engines) in the sea (Craigslist)
Life is about enjoying the engine you are sitting behind.
hmmm, seems like most people are 20w50, but ever since I got mine I've been putting 10w40 because that's what the previous owner used. What are the differences? and how safe would it be to switch over?
I prefer Mobil synthetic 15-40. Works good for me these days because i don't drive it in the snow anymore. use it in both the E21 and tii.
Dino 20/50 during the hot months, Dino 10/40 in the cold months.
Tired of popping oil filter seals
Tbd
full syth, 15-50 because I can't find 20-50
E21 Legion and proud member
No dash to cracked, No shimmy to strong!
RIP 1976 316 charbel is picking your parts from his teeth
1977 320i
1986 635csi
1983 320is, parted for the 77
2012 BMW G650GS Sertao
Wife's:
2007 Suzuki SV650
1989 535 with manual swap
1993 740i
Red Line 15-50
It's used by many 944 racer.
From what i've heard it's good for old beaten engine...
The valve train make less noise with this compare to castrol or Motul.
(I don't like my M20 when people think it's a diesel.)
I kept it last winter with no problem to start the car even at -34'C...
I just can't bring myself to pay for synthetic. If the m10 lasts 200k miles on regular oil then Castrol 20-50 is good enough for me.
castrol 20-50
Lubro Moly Syn 5w40
there are VERY few legitimate reasons if any not to use synthetic oil; a lot of people have heard myths to the contrary and will happily repeat them for you...hopefully your machinist is not one of them...
I use Amsoil for my cars when available or another quality synthetic in a pinch...
Last edited by nMide; 10-21-2011 at 07:37 PM.
It depends. If you're the type of guy that's going to change his oil every 3000 miles, then you may be wasting your money on synthetic.
Synthetic fluids deteriorate most rtv sealants, and only a few gasket makers are rated for use with synthetics (permatex Right Stuff is one of them).
Last year I switched to Valvoline VR1 racing dyno 20w50 (there's also a synthetic VR1) and I actually had problems with smoking and burning oil, particularly when letting off the throttle. I THINK it was related to turbo seals (even though I also rebuilt my turbo last year). I just switched back to my usual Mobil 1 15w50 and the smoking is long gone.
I like to run synthetic because it stands up the heat of turbo use better than dyno lubes. I do one oil change a year and probably only put about 3k on the car a year.
Castrol 20w50 and substitute a bottle for Lucas Stabilizer because of my oil burining issue.
Castrol GTX High Mileage 10W30 (Napa Gold 1374 oil filter). I've only done 1000 km annually with it lately and thus change it once a year. Minimal to no oil burning based on what I see coming from the exhaust.
Castol GTX 20w-50, with the occasional marvel mystery oil added in.
I may switch to a good full synthetic when I swap the M42 in though. Run Castrol synthetic in all my other vehicles.
1977 320i - BBSs, Recaros, LSD, Zender bits
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