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Thread: Spal Fan Install (replacing aux fan)

  1. #1
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    Spal Fan Install (replacing aux fan)

    I have to remove the stock aux fan (a/c fan) so my new intercooler can fit, so im going to intsall a ultra thin spal fan. I would like to utilize the stock aux fan harness, but it has 3 connections 1 ground, 1 low speed, 1 high speed. The spal fan only has ground and positive. How can i make this work?

  2. #2
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    tap the low speed wire

  3. #3
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    but wont it siwtch off when the high speed is activated.

  4. #4
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    I don't know.
    But the low speed setting is the first to turn on. It is also turned on by the A/C.

    You could get another temp switch solenoid and run it from that. Or a straight switch...

    I took out my mechanical fan and haven't replaced it with an electric, but the farthest south my car is going is South Carolina. And I know that's not quite as warm as Orlando

    edit: nor do i have a turbo.

  5. #5
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    hmm maybe ill just tap off the low speed speed setting than. I just hate that it will turn off when it flips over to high speed. I do like the idea of it turning on wheni turn ac on though.

  6. #6
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    Why not run both Low and High speed wires?

    As long as you put a diode inline on the Low and inline on the High, then join the wires, connect to the feed to the Spal Trigger.

  7. #7
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    I foudn the answe fromt he FI forum. THey said just to connect it to the low speed one.

  8. #8
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    I thought I already told you how to do that using a Bosch relay?

    #30 -> Fan +
    #87a -> low speed wire - possibly with a resistor wired in for true low speed
    #87 and #86 -> high speed wire
    #85 -> ground

    A simple diode won't work unless you get a monster of a diode, there's a ton of amperage running through these fans.
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  9. #9
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    ya u did. lost the saved im. didnt watn to bother you again, and having you to think about it.

  10. #10
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    I still dont know what resistor to use though.

  11. #11
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    one of the guys from the FI board did this



    My Spal is hooked to the low speed wire only. I originally had concerns that it would turn off when it kicked to high speed. It does not turn off.. Mine has been that way for almost 2 years.

    This maybe the easiest way to do it.

  12. #12
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    I have been running the high and low connected together to the + for over 6 months with no problems. Only one is switched on at a time. If you use the low input when the high one is kicked on the fan will cut off.
    -Chris

  13. #13
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    marc1119 did the following


    My Spal is hooked to the low speed wire only. I originally had concerns that it would turn off when it kicked to high speed. It does not turn off.. Mine has been that way for almost 2 years.
    He said when it swithces to high it does not turn off.

  14. #14
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    I have fan delete and in summer I would hear it cut off, and notice the car temp rise.
    -Chris

  15. #15
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    hmm, mabye ill just do it like yours then. Thats strange. What did you replaced your stock a/c fan (aux fan) with ? Im going to use a 16" pusher ultra thin spal fan.

  16. #16
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    Anyone have any input on this subject?

  17. #17
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    How did you guys mount your fans? Did you guys use the quick-zip mounts or another way?

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  18. #18
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    you can tap in to the low only...
    it will not open the connection unless the temp is less than the the low limit again.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryosten
    you can tap in to the low only...
    it will not open the connection unless the temp is less than the the low limit again.
    High is rather pointless when you think about it.. if you get a quality fan, temps should cool off quick enough that the car won't make the switch to the high temp circuit.

    For me, I have serious doubts that my little coolant temp switch on the radiator is working correctly. I let the car sit the other day after finishing the fan delete and glanced inside and the temp needle was past center. The aux fan does an impressive job at preventing heat soak of the radiator when the car sits.. I'm 99% sure that fan wasnt on when the temp needle was past center.

    I guess wiring it up to the blue/black low speed wire is the best option. If indeed the temp switch is messed up, I can simply turn on the AC and have them fire up.

    It's a little ironic though, I took the fan off to increase power.. now the only way I can cool the car is by turning on the AC compressor which eats up more power than the damn fan did.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36DJ
    For me, I have serious doubts that my little coolant temp switch on the radiator is working correctly. I let the car sit the other day after finishing the fan delete and glanced inside and the temp needle was past center. The aux fan does an impressive job at preventing heat soak of the radiator when the car sits.. I'm 99% sure that fan wasnt on when the temp needle was past center.
    you can test your coolant temp switch with a mulitmeter, the bentley should have instructions, I know the hayes manual does.

    my aux fan was shot when i got my car, so i modded a 16 universal aux fan to fit into the aux fan shroud. i wired it up the low-speed and i haven't had any problems with it.
    Hold on let me get my laptop and read this on the toilet.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36DJ
    I have serious doubts that my little coolant temp switch on the radiator is working correctly.
    If the cooling system isn't bled properly you can end up with an air pocket around the fan switch, rendering it useless. See, http://www.understeer.com/faq.shtml#coolingbleed
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrdoenutz
    Anyone have any input on this subject?
    I'd hook them both up, when the fan switches to the high, it disconnects the low so it should be on anytime the fans are powered by the relay. Check the wiring diagram to confirm this. low and high shorted together... the other end of the wire should be open unless the relay has it shorted to 12v.
    -steve

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