Results 1 to 24 of 24

Thread: DIY Crank Position Sensor (front location)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    9,873
    My Cars
    E36

    DIY Crank Position Sensor (front location)

    The following is my attempt at a decent pictoral DIY for the crank position sensor (CPS) for 95 and I believe some 96 M3's (and pre 96 nonM M50s).



    How do you know the CPS is bad?

    In my scenario, the first symptom was a check engine light (CEL) along with a very bouncy idle. This happened about 5 seconds after start up (after the car had sat for 5 days). (reading the code out gave 1243 - CPS failure 'out of bounds' - search for the 'pedal trick' or 'stomp test' for OBDI cars)

    I drove it after that, and a few minutes/miles the CEL went away and the car drove fine.

    The next start up (next morning) - the engine just cranked and cranked, but finally started. It threw the CEL while cranking, but went away a few seconds after starting. It did this the next few starts, however occasionally it would start fine.

    Finally, it just would not start at all. Nothing but cranking. And still throwing the 1243 CEL.


    The final end-all-know-all that the CPS is faulty is to measure the resistance withing the sensor, however to do that you have to take it out first (yay?). *edit you can just disconnect it and test at the connector*


    CPS Removal

    I did a lot of searching for a DIY, and the only one I could find was from pelican parts:
    http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...aft-Sensor.htm

    This DIY says the Intake manifold must be removed...yea....not doing that for a silly sensor.

    Searching/posting here on bimmerforums led me to knowing that you can do it w/o pulling the manifold, however it's tough....and there is no DIY. (reason for writing this).


    First Step:
    *disconnect the battery (always a good start when dealing with electrical)

    -you'll need your intake out of the way, and even pull your mass aif flow meter and intake elbow off. This will give you room to get to the CPS's connector. Also remove the radiator cover/alternator ducting.

    pic shows air box removed. Remove the maf/intake elbow/alt duct work too


    Second Step:

    -Remove fan/fan clutch. If you haven't done this before it's a pain...you sometimes will need a special tool (I always have to use one). Also remember it's reverse threaded. See Post 13 for special tool info

    Third Step:

    -loosen up the fan shroud. This is pretty simple - it's two plastic rivets/clips and you have to disconnect the small coolant hose one the top of the shroud. You don't need to remove the shroud, just move it up a few inches.

    here's a DIY that includes the fan removal and shroud removal
    http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

    This is what it should look like (messy yes)



    Forth Step:

    Find the CPS and remove it at the crank. It's just below the tstat housing, slightly on the passenger side of the car. Remove the bolt (5mm Allen wrench):










    Then you will need to get the sensor out of the actual hole it's in. I used a small pair of channel locks to twisted it while I pulled it out. Came fairly easily, however some people say this is the most difficult part:





    And there it is





    Fifth Step

    Removing the wiring to the harness. This was the toughest part for me due to how crammed everthing is. The cable going to the CPS runs under the tstat housing and then above it. It is held into place with a plastic piece which is attached using to C-clips. Read the pelican article, it has a good photo of the piece you need to remove.

    Here is that piece removed, you can see how the cable is routed through it:


    and now removed from the studs




    Now you need to find where this cable goes. if you trace it, it will go under the intake manifold and pretty far back. Find it and disconnect it. It is a goofy clip - it has a small spring that you have to pull back to unclip it. The connection is also stuck in a plate of metal - pulling it out of that helps give you some slack to undo the connectors.

    Connection is the lower of the two in the pic


    disconnected





    Sixth Step
    Removing the entire CPS from the engine. It should be loose on both ends, but needs to come out. There are a couple things that will help you to remove it.
    You must remove the engine lift eye, held on with two 13mm bolts.




    I also had to remove the oil filter to give me a bit more room. Others have said you must remove the banjo fitting for the vanos oil line...however I did not. It was vert tight though between the oil filter housing and the vanos oil line.




    This should allow you to remove it, and finally test it (you could test it if after disconnecting it if you were really good...however I already was pretty sure that this was my problem)


    Testing the CPS





    According to the bentley, test the resistance between two of the three contacts. Also note, the bentley says look for ~1200 ohms...however it really should be closer to ~550



    For sure mine was thd culprit (thank god) (oh and I notice this pic was with the multimeter at 200ohm range...i did test it all the way up to 2000k - nothing measured)




    I ordered a replacement from pelican and tested it, looks good:








    Installation of CPS

    The install is pretty much every back wards. The tricky part is to guess where to put the funny plastic clip on the cable. This could be done easily - I would connect the connector first, then using judgement put the plastic piece on the cable, install that piece, the install the CPS. I did mine the other way around and it wasn't as easy.

    Another note, the CPS is a tight fit in the hole (I know what you're thinking ) I just wiped out the hole and got it a little more than half way down, then started the bolt (so that you make sure the bolt hole is lined up).

    The connection point was also difficult to get back onto the metal plate, it really is stressing the wiring harness it feels...until it slides in, then it's good.


    The bentley also calls for a certain gap between the crank and the sensor...I just put a folded piece of paper between the two to make sure there was a slight gap.


    Make sure to remember to install the lift bracket and remember to tighten the coolant hoses.

    ...I did not...and it made the first trip after install...well....long. and wet.


    Other than that, it's pretty straight forward. Connect your battery and crank it up. Mine started right away and the 1243 code was gone. It did very briefly throw a 1281 (ECU voltage) code, but that was due to the battery being disconnected.

    While sitting on the side of the road waiting for the car to cool down I did a stomp test and got 1444 (no codes) and I was pretty happy.


    hope this helps!
    Last edited by Moron95M3; 03-12-2013 at 12:03 PM.
    BMW CCA Illini Chapter Vice President
    1995 M3
    - My Favorite DIY's and FAQ's



  2. #2
    RRSperry's Avatar
    RRSperry is offline Senior Moment Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Eldersburg, Md
    Posts
    12,368
    My Cars
    95 ///M3sc, '21 C8 HTC
    Great job, but for the love of God, please clean that engine...n And what the heck is the oil filter cap doing off when you are working on something else?
    No matter where you go, there you are...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    9,873
    My Cars
    E36
    Quote Originally Posted by RRSperry View Post
    Great job, but for the love of God, please clean that engine...n And what the heck is the oil filter cap doing off when you are working on something else?
    it's clean(er) now (needs valvecover gasket...it's on the evergrowing list). And the oil filter cap should have been put back on except for the one step, you're right. (I had it off so I could see where the cable was routed - should've put it back on while undoing the lift eye/plastic routing piece.)
    Last edited by Moron95M3; 06-02-2011 at 09:31 AM.
    BMW CCA Illini Chapter Vice President
    1995 M3
    - My Favorite DIY's and FAQ's



  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    NC, USA
    Posts
    58
    My Cars
    1998 BMW M3 Coupe
    Can you test the sensor with it still in place? I would think so,but thought I'd ask.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    9,873
    My Cars
    E36
    yep you should be able to.

    it will just be difficult, but doable at this stage: (obviously wouldn't have to undo the sensor at the crank)

    BMW CCA Illini Chapter Vice President
    1995 M3
    - My Favorite DIY's and FAQ's



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Hamden, CT
    Posts
    206
    My Cars
    '95 M3, '04 ZHP
    Good Job and thanks for taking the time to share.
    I haven't had to cross that bridge yet but when I do I'll have a good idea
    going in what to expect.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Sconnie
    Posts
    542
    My Cars
    95M3, 78 T/A
    Thanks for the DIY. I was able to do the project in under an 1.5hrs and went smoothly after reading this over a couple times. My car no longer has a bouncing idle and is much smoother.

    95'///M3 Cosmos Black with AA intake, Gen III Exhaust, AA chip, BMP Front strut bar, Koni S/A's, H&R OE springs.
    Origin ID: RomCommm

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Woodbridge, NJ USA
    Posts
    20
    My Cars
    2003 BMW E46 325xi
    Hey guys i am having similar problem with the Crankshaft Position Sensor. However the problem is that i can't locate the sensor on my 2003 E46 325xi. All the models up to 2000 has a Crankshaft position sensor with long wire but mine looks something like this, i bought it from autozone.
    I looked every where but no luck. I took the intake system off, filter box off, i even jacked up car high enough to sit underneath the car and find the sensor but i just can't seem to locate the Crankshaft position sensor. Please help me out to locate the CPS on my 2003 325xi, i am really frustrated right now cuz i dont have any other car to drive

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Dublin, OH
    Posts
    7,886
    My Cars
    '95 M3, '17 Civic Si
    Quote Originally Posted by jay52 View Post
    Hey guys i am having similar problem with the Crankshaft Position Sensor. However the problem is that i can't locate the sensor on my 2003 E46 325xi. All the models up to 2000 has a Crankshaft position sensor with long wire but mine looks something like this, i bought it from autozone.
    I looked every where but no luck. I took the intake system off, filter box off, i even jacked up car high enough to sit underneath the car and find the sensor but i just can't seem to locate the Crankshaft position sensor. Please help me out to locate the CPS on my 2003 325xi, i am really frustrated right now cuz i dont have any other car to drive

    Jay,
    your CPK is the same location as the S52 and M52 E36 motors as it is on your M54 E46 one....It is directly under the starter motor

    see number 18...This diagram is misleading since the CPK doesn't have a wire to it built-in...the CPK is as shown in your picture there but the location is correct


    if you have small hands, you should be able to get to it from under the car and reaching and feeling for it....Use a 5mm (or was it6mm?) allen wrench to remove the allen bolt holding it to the back of the block....you won't have room for an allen socket and ratchet wrench...............I pray you have small hands. this method is painful but should take 15mn.

    Otherwise, it can be done from the top of the engine bay but that involves removing the intake manifold most likely. this method is time-consuming but pretty straightforward

    Do note that my post was made with the E36 in mind but I did do a CPK on a 2001 323 once and it was the same exact method of going from under the car
    s
    -Rich-


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Woodbridge, NJ USA
    Posts
    20
    My Cars
    2003 BMW E46 325xi
    Thanks das borgen, i am going to check it there right now. And if possible, i will upload some pictures from the top and the bottom of the car.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Liberal,Mo,USA
    Posts
    8
    My Cars
    1994 325i
    I replaced my CPS using this write up, it was very well written. I had the same symptoms, hard starting, bouncing RPM's, then finally no starting. I might add that i did not need to remove the oil filter cap as you have, but that was just my experience. Thanks for taking the time to do this, it took me 2 hours, and only $50.00 bucks for the part.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    426
    My Cars
    87 M6, 92 325is, 00 M5
    Great write up. Multimeter confirmed CPS was shot. I have the AC out, so it was fairly easy to get at CPS from the bottom. Didn't even have to remove hose or shroud.

    Again, thanks for taking the time to compile such a good DIY.
    db
    ///M is the fastest letter in the alphabet.
    87' M6 - "Lestat" - In progress
    92' 325is
    99' 328is

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    9,873
    My Cars
    E36
    Glad this is helping out!


    Also, I got a pm from ChrisPerry1983...regarding the special tool for the fan:

    [quote: Moron]
    Have you taken off the fan before? It requires a 32mm wrench, and typically some way to hold the waterpump pulley behind the fan clutch. Thats the difficult part.

    If you're lucky (I'm 50/50 here), you can put the 32mm wrench on, and hit it with a large hammer (I use a 3lb engineers hammer). Sometimes there is enough inertia to break the fan clutch loose.

    If not, you need to find a way to hold the water pump pulley. Some times you can fit the perfect size screwdriver between the bolt heads, but I haven't had luck here.

    This is the BMW tool:
    http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...Y/PIC_0028.jpg

    you can make this tool yourself using a 1/4" x 2 strip of steel, and a drill/grinder. doesn't have to be perfect, just something to grab the bolt heads on the pulley and avoid the shaft. This is what I've done.
    http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...ClutchTool.jpg

    I hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

    Good luck!
    -Eric

    [/quote]
    BMW CCA Illini Chapter Vice President
    1995 M3
    - My Favorite DIY's and FAQ's



  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    254
    My Cars
    98 M3 Coupe
    A hammer and my 32mm always works out fine. Just don't be scared to hit full force lol

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Queensland Australia
    Posts
    302
    My Cars
    1998 2.8l z3 RED
    Thanks did mine today front location m52 e36/7 z3. It all a tight squeeze but did it without removing the intake manifold.

    That clip in part CPS above is what BMW tried to sell me looking up my vin for the part, and that fits in the rear position, it's longer too so will never fit in the front, mine was one piece and it's a different part number fits in the front.

    Thanks for your write up, done and dusted!
    ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐl ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Dunedin, Florida
    Posts
    711
    My Cars
    2002 525i Touring
    So I wasn't able to find this through the bf app, in less than 4 hours from having no starting, no cel, and having no idea where to begin, the job is complete and my woman is driving to work.
    There was some info in a different forum I also found useful, if there is no check engine light on when the key is in position 2, (and its not burnt out) this is either the dme or cps.
    If your fuel pump is kicking on when the key is in position 2 then the fuel system, including relays, fuses, regulators and the dme are not the issue and either you will get no spark or the cps is bad. Period.

    If you have tried repeatedly to start it, by excessive key turning and or carb cleaner to the throttle body, do the stomp test, then disconnect the ground of the battery, wait a few minutes and hook it back up. The car should crank and run after a few seconds of trying. But again if its the cps, the RPM's will just fall to zero.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    475
    My Cars
    1995 E36 M3 Coupe
    So, the bentley calls for a new o-ring, did you not use one? It doesn't look like you even have one in the pictures during removal.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Queensland Australia
    Posts
    302
    My Cars
    1998 2.8l z3 RED
    Quote Originally Posted by ewrjontan View Post
    So, the bentley calls for a new o-ring, did you not use one? It doesn't look like you even have one in the pictures during removal.
    I think bentley may be referring to the cps that in the side of the engine where it reads the flywheel and needs a oring to seal, the cps in the front position is not inside the engine so does not require the oring.

    see the side position and number 19 is the oring


    Most of this thread is referring to the cps in the front location
    ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐl ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    475
    My Cars
    1995 E36 M3 Coupe
    Ahhh, that makes sense. Thanks! Saves me a trip to the dealer

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    space
    Posts
    8
    My Cars
    2003 330i
    Moron95M3

    , this is a great article but I must be terrible. Even after seeing the diagram of where the cps is, I still can't find it (your pics show it right next to where the fan attaches, but there's nothing there on my 330i). It must be covered by the a/c. Do i need to take the a/c out to do it from the bottom? I would not want to take out the manifold to do it from the top. Any ideas? I really need to replace this sensor inorder to pass inspection. Thanks in advance

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    SF Bay
    Posts
    17
    My Cars
    '95 M3
    FYI: how to definitively test the CrPS while installed on car: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...7#post29379627

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Carbondale Pennsylvania
    Posts
    38
    My Cars
    ‘94 325i, ‘18 Tundra
    Sorry for bringing this thread from the dead, My car has a no start issue but it does crank, after checking the resistance on the old sensor it measured around 860 and so does the replacement one that I got
    Last edited by DSGBUILT; 01-23-2019 at 02:36 PM.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,654
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    you should have asked in the E36 forum, this is the M3 forum which has a different engine. Yours is a 1994 E36 325i. Based in the ETK it is # 09 Pulse generator 12141726065 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_0157
    Using google search I got following Ohm data from the net for various brands
    Meat & Doria Art.-Nr.: 87110 550 Ohm
    Herth + Buss Elparts Art.-Nr.: 70610102 900 Ohm
    Vemo Art.-Nr.: V20-72-0432 900 Ohm
    Hella Art.-Nr.: 6PU 009 110-541 540 Ohm
    KW Made in Italy - OE Equivalent Art.-Nr.: 453 130 550 Ohm
    Delphi Art.-Nr.: SS11021 535 Ohm
    Facet Made in Italy - OE Equivalent Art.-Nr.: 9.0130 550 Ohm
    Meyle Art.-Nr.: 314 899 8003 550 Ohm, 12 V , passive Sensor

    quite confusing. Is that 12141726065 the p/n you got?

    For info:GROUP 12 12 10 99 Woodcliff Lake, N.J. July 1999 Engine Electrical Product Engineering - This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. 12 10 99 dated May 1999 which should be removed and discarded from your S.I. binder.
    Perform the procedure outlined in this Service Information on all affected vehicles the next time they are in the shop for maintenance or repairs and on every affected vehicle prior to retail.
    SUBJECT: Voluntary Emissions Recall Campaign No. 99E-A01
    MODEL: E36 - 323i and 328i with M52 engine produced 6/95 - 12/98, E36 - M3 with S52 engine produced 1/96 - 12/98, E39 - 528i with M52 engine produced 3/96 - 8/98, Z3 - with M52 engine produced 7/96 - 9/98, Z3 - with S52 engine produced 1/98 - 1/99
    Situation: BMW of North America, Inc. has initiated a Voluntary Emission-Recall Campaign to correct vehicles that may have a faulty crankshaft position sensor. A customer notification letter will be sent out by May 1999. This action will address the illumination of the "Check Engine"lamp and the following faults being set in the Engine Control Module (ECM/DME):
    Fault Code 83 - Crankshaft position sensor, Fault Code 244 - Crankshaft segment timing, Cause: Internal failure of the sensor
    Affected Vehicles: This recall involves E36,E39 and Z3 vehicles with M52 and S52 engines which were produced from 6/95 - 1/99.The procedure given in this bulletin must be performed on all affected vehicles identified on DCS. (A copy of the letter which will be sent to all affected customers in a staggered mailing is attached to this S.I.)
    In order to determine if a specific vehicle is affected by this Recall , it will be necessary to utilize the "Service Menu" of the DCS (Dealer Communication System). Based on the response of the system, either proceed with the corrective action or take no further action. The Chassis Number Ranges listed below are only for informational purposes and are not tobe considered as the only deciding factor.
    Model Chassis Number Range
    328i/4 AV15000-AV25219 LB10002-LB10479, 328iA/4 AV35000-AV65890 LB30004-LB31291, M3 Conv. EC42001-EC43174 ,M3A Conv. EC38005-EC40502, M3/4 EE05001-EE09665, M3A/4 EE10002-EE14165,M3/2 EY72008-EY81023
    328i/2 ET00009-ET08059 ,328iA/2 ET30015-ET38036, 328iC ET60003-ET67400, 328iCA ET90006-ET99999 EY85000-EY91136, 323i/2 EH40001-EH43356, 323iA/2 EH60002-EH63662, 323iC EA15000-EA18321, 323iCA EM20001-EM23874
    528i BV50010-BV56850,528iA BW00026-BW49997 GT90000-GT97785
    Z3 LC00020-LC16358 ,Z3A LB62000-LB63999 LG20000-LG20708, Z3 M coupe LC60010-LC60950, Z3 M roadster LC85002-LC89198

    Correction: The crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced with the same type of sensor that is currently being used on the M52TU engine. Along with replacing the sensor an adapterharness must also be installed in order to supply the sensor with a 12V operating voltage instead of the 5 volts currently being supplied by the DME. NOTE: SOME VEHICLES LISTED IN DCS MAY ALREADY HAVE THE NEW STYLE SENSOR INSTALLED, FOR THESE VEHICLES A CHECK/VERIFICATION WILL ONLY BE NEEDED.
    Procedure: The following steps must be followed when replacing the original M52 crankshaft sensor withthe new M52TU sensor.
    1. Remove the crankshaft positionsensor which is located below the starter motor.
    Remove the Sensor (1)
    If the sensor currently installed in the vehicle has a connector directly on the sensor which can be disconnected, then the new sensor is already installed. No further action is required and the DCS contact can be closed.
    Note: Illustration shows location of component with air filter housing and air mass meter removed. It is not necessary to remove these components to perform this repair.
    2. The electrical connection of the crankshaft sensor to the engine harness is located below the intake manifold.To access this connector, the cap of the oil filter housing ( should be removed and the oil filter and housing should then be covered to prevent dirt from getting onto the oil filter.
    3. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor (1) from the engine harness. Note: This illustration shows theplug connectors with the intake manifold removed. It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold in order to gain access to these connectors and complete this repair.
    4. 4. Remove the fuel rail cover and unplug the VANOS solenoid valve plug connector (2).
    5. 5. Install the new crankshaft position sensor (1) P/N 12 14 1 709 616and O-ring P/N 12 14 1 748 398.
    6. Install adapter harness P/N 12 51 4 592 703.
    a. Connect (1) to the new crankshaft position sensor.
    b. Connect (2) to the engine harness connector which was previously connected to the old crankshaft sensor located below the intake manifold.
    c. Connect (3) to the VANOS solenoid valve located on the VANOS unit.
    d. Connect (4) to the engine wiring harness connector which previously connected directly to the VANOS solenoid valve.
    7. After the adapter harness has been installed secure the harness lead going to the VANOS solenoid valve (1) to the VANOS oil line with 2 cable ties (3).
    Note: The harness lead going to the VANOS solenoid valve should not be under tension. The harness lead should be able to move.
    Parts Information: Part Number.......... Description............. Qty.
    ......................12 14 1 709 616 Crankshaft position sensor 1
    ......................12 51 4 592 703.... Adapter harness.......... 1
    ......................12 14 1 748 398...... O - ring 17x3............ 1
    ......................61 13 1 377 134....... Cable tie................. 2
    NOTE: The early style Crankshaft position sensors are no longer available from the Parts Department. Any retailer stock of Part Number 12 14 1 744 492 should be returned to your facing PDC using : Return code: TEC 36, Order and invoice numbers do not need to be provided.
    Recall Label
    Instructions: After the vehicle has been checked and corrected, obtain a label (SD 92-124) and with a ball point pen print your dealer code (5 digits) on the Recall Completion Label (see illustration). An initial quantity of 100 labels will be sent to all BMW automotive centers. Peel the label from its backing and affix it to the left front strut tower (in the engine compartment) next to
    the Vehicle Emission Control Label. For California centers only it is required by the California Code of Regulations that an executed orange "Vehicle Emission Recall - Proof of Correction" certificate (SD92-084, see illustration) be provided to each customer (for vehicles registered in the state of California) once the Recall on their vehicle has been completed. Note: Additional labels can be ordered from Product Engineering (a pre-printed order form is enclosed).
    Warranty Information: Reimbursement for this recall will be provided through campaign entry.
    Defect Code: 00 12 27 01 00, Work Package #1: Replace crankshaft sensor & install adapter harness., Models: E36 - 323i/iA, 328i/iA and M3, E39 - 528i/iA, Z3, Labor Operation: 00 51 404, Labor Allowance: 11 FRU
    Work Package #2: Check if new crankshaft sensor is already installed. Replacement not required. Models: E36 - 323i/iA, 328i/iA and M3, E39 - 528i/iA, Z3, Labor Operation: 00 52 019 Labor Allowance: 3 FRU

    http://bavarian-board.com/uploads/kb...ion_Sensor.pdf
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    9,873
    My Cars
    E36
    ^^The engine in the US M3 is basically identically though...the Euro S50, sure, is way different. (This is the US M3 section)

    DSGBUILT - it seems like the CPS isn't your cultrip...
    BMW CCA Illini Chapter Vice President
    1995 M3
    - My Favorite DIY's and FAQ's



Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •