So I tried to take on a DIY wetsanding project. I have an e34 and I wanted to polish the hood. It had a lot of scratches on the clear coat. So i bought some 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper, meguiars ultimate compound, a Kawasaki 7in polisher and finish wax.
So I sanded the whole hood lightly with both grits. Then I used the compound applied with my polisher at number 2 speed and the scratches wont come out! its horrible. Should I redo at a higher speed?
Thanks
94 E34 530
1500 and 2000 grit is too low, you should have been working with higher grits (neighborhood of 3,000, UNIGRIT paper... that is important).
If the clearcoat on your '94 is original (factory) you have very little to work with. (Think the thickness of a plastic trash bag). If its been repainted you have more clear to work with....
2,000 Grit scratches CAN be buffed out by a pro, not easy though. I would advise against going over it with higher grit papers (like 3,000) because you'll shave off more clear. Don't get the paint too hot and work with it.
You'll need at least 2 different grades of compound to get those out (because the more aggressive compound will leave a haze...)
A good bodyshop should be able to take care of it for ~$50 I would imagine. Ask them to paint meter it.
It looks like you're doing things mostly right.
The Ultimate Compound is quite aggressive so it should be able to cut just fine which is what you're trying to do at that step.
As a general rule, cut with a higher speed, polish/jewel with a lower speed.
Cut with more pressure, jewel with less/no pressure.
You don't mention your pad choice and the right pad can make or break the job.
You want to make sure you're using a cutting pad with the Ultimate Compound so check the pad manufacturer and make sure it's classed as a cutting pad.
So, cut with a higher speed and more downward pressure. Finish the section with a slightly slower speed and no pressure.
You may have to do a finishing buff with a milder polish (Scratch X 2.0, Swirl X or #83). (and a polishing pad, not a cutting pad of course)
I've included an interesting link about the Ultimate Compound by Mike Phillips, the Meguiar's expert. Mike is a real polishing genius and has forgotten more about polishing than I'll ever know. (Page 5 ranks some of the Meg's line for abrasiveness and that's where I got the above suggestions for the final buff).
Report back with your results.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=28334
-John C.
thanks fellas
94 E34 530
I think the Ultimate compound you have is good for mild swirling and waterspots, is that right?
105 is the really aggressive compound used in conjunction with 205.
I've used 600 and 1200 then 2000 followed with a polish and managed to get good results.
So I don't know why you are having trouble.
Walk a mile in my shoes and you are a mile away in someone else's shoes.
Goodridge*UUC sways* Black TME's and mounts( switched from Red)* x-brace*brembo rotors*Zimmerman rear*Pagid*Riken Raptors* Roja Formula 7's (Bronze)* Stromung*Powdercoated AA DSB* OMP strut bar*GC RSM's* M3 alum/leather knob*JTD underpanel *Traffic PRO (sold) *Black hella Ellipsoids w/celis rings * ACS Pedals*ACS handbrake*RE Octane SSK*Wheelskins Eurotones S/ Wheel Cover( tossed-replaced with new one)* Totally Covers Front seat velour covers with custom styling *Rieger roof spoiler-lost it on fwy Stock A/B*URI CP (ditched years ago)*540 HFM (sold) Stock HFM (BeckArnley)*FMS 24 lb inj*Alum rad and some other stuff*Konis w/adj rr's*Vogtland springs ** Passport 8500(sold)*Passpprt 7500 (sold V1-1.8 with POP) No detectors at all.
Coming...nada
BMWCCA-303681
I think part of the problem is you did the whole hood- work on small sections at a time, it makes it easier.
Mods: Remus 76mm exhaust, CDV delete, ASA AR1 18in staggered wheels, Turner 12 mm spacers, custom red tails, Kenwood deck/Sirius/BT/USB, ZHP knob, Redline boot, LeatherZ armrest, Amsoil all around, red needles, Akebono Euro brake pads, 34k original miles!
Walk a mile in my shoes and you are a mile away in someone else's shoes.
Goodridge*UUC sways* Black TME's and mounts( switched from Red)* x-brace*brembo rotors*Zimmerman rear*Pagid*Riken Raptors* Roja Formula 7's (Bronze)* Stromung*Powdercoated AA DSB* OMP strut bar*GC RSM's* M3 alum/leather knob*JTD underpanel *Traffic PRO (sold) *Black hella Ellipsoids w/celis rings * ACS Pedals*ACS handbrake*RE Octane SSK*Wheelskins Eurotones S/ Wheel Cover( tossed-replaced with new one)* Totally Covers Front seat velour covers with custom styling *Rieger roof spoiler-lost it on fwy Stock A/B*URI CP (ditched years ago)*540 HFM (sold) Stock HFM (BeckArnley)*FMS 24 lb inj*Alum rad and some other stuff*Konis w/adj rr's*Vogtland springs ** Passport 8500(sold)*Passpprt 7500 (sold V1-1.8 with POP) No detectors at all.
Coming...nada
BMWCCA-303681
Ok, see I used the wool pad that came with the polisher. I could section the hood into three parts but my question is how much time do I spend on the section. I did multiple passes for about 45 secs to a min on each part. As seen on my sig I would do the drivers side part the middle then the passenger side
Last edited by 93G34; 04-08-2011 at 12:41 AM.
94 E34 530
This kind of work should only be undertaken by a professional or hobbyist detailer; who is experienced in colour-sanding (wet-sanding) / paint renovation, more so than detailing, someone who uses a paint thickness gauge (PTG) to measure and document the vehicles paint. This is a technique that takes a lot of practice to perfect.
This statement is not meant to question anything related to your detailing or paint re- finishing abilities just my opinion on the risks involved.
Your vehicle is no place to learn wet-sanding, go to a scrap yard and get an old vehicle hood and practice , practice and did I mention parctice, when you feel you are proficient then and only then, work on your own car
~ Providing unbiased advice that entry level, enthusiasts, professionals and industry experts trust ~~ TOGWT Blog - Facebook Page
first off u should use 3000 wet on a da. dont use alot of water as it will hydroplain across the surface doing nothing to the paint ,u should see a whitish trail as u sand it , thats the clear coat, if u dont see this its not doing its job.for fresh paint we denub the dirt with 2000 denubing block,then 1500 wet sand d.a it, then 3000 d.a sand it
as for compounding.
i use 3m products so.
step 1. compound let the wheel do the work, dont press to hard,and go slowly to let the compound do its job and try to stay flat with the wheel as much as poss.i use a white 3m foam pad, u press to hard on a edge u will burn the paint off
step 2.polish.same as above just use less product i use a bit of water so not to overheat the polish if u overheat or use alot of polishit will clump up and stick
3m polish black foam pad
step 3. ultra polish light blue foam pad.same as above.bit of water like a mist after u apply the polish to the panel,then wheel make sure to overlap the area i turn up the speed a bit for the final polish on my wheel its a 6 setting,after that wipe with a micro rag
as for the inbetween steps, make sure u wipe off all the compound with glass cleaner before u start step 2 same goes for step 3
after step 3 is complete dont use glass cleaner micro will do the job just fine
if u have a dark color car
i recommend a product called seal b from ardex
can be hand applied
hope this helps ya guys
as for sectioning off panels try to section every panel into 4 parts makes it easier to see dull spots
Last edited by bimmerrob10; 04-08-2011 at 10:31 PM.
Remus sport cat back, cai, amber city lights
coilovers, spal fan, 15% tint, gold with polished lip bbs 42,s , interior revamp to come.
I was able to use 2000 grit followed with m105 on a DA and got fantastic results, this was on respray so not on OEM paint.
be careful OP or your going to end up needing to have your car repainted.
I was able to use 1000 or 1500 then a few moments with 2000.
Here is a cut/paste from my success:
I have these huge scratches in my hood that piss me off. My step dad or I must have scratched the heck out of the hood over winter - as soon as the snow cleared I was annoyed.
There were about 4 of them, two were about 10 - 12" long (wtf) and a couple 2 - 3" ones. They were all pretty deep.
So, I decided to sand my paint down in a few spots.
Using this:
I did this:
Thats from 1000 grit sand paper (wet). Eek. I was a little concerned at this point though the part I had hand compounded out looked sort of like this initially too so... fingers crossed.
Shot during sanding:
You can see one of the long scratches still faintly up near the cowl. So I had to sand more.
I washed the car over and over and sanded and sanded and ultimately broke out this little guy:
(though I used it before laying it face down)
I just used some of this stuff:
For a bit, and the results... well.
Pre-waxing/etc:
And post-waxing:
Notice the area closest to the camera was not wetsanded while the area up toward the top of the picture was - not the lack of orange peel in the roof line of the house.
Much success. I try to do things myself vs pay shops etc. I was quoted this job at roughly $100/hr for scratch/paint correction. This took me about 3 - 4 hours so I saved quite a bunch. I am considering wet sanding the rest of the hood! And of course I am not motivated to wet sand the other dozen small scratches on the car. Oh man, so exciting.
^ Did you go right from rubbing compound/wool to wax?
getting closer...
I did - so now I am going to swirl remove and polish it once my products come in.
Walk a mile in my shoes and you are a mile away in someone else's shoes.
Goodridge*UUC sways* Black TME's and mounts( switched from Red)* x-brace*brembo rotors*Zimmerman rear*Pagid*Riken Raptors* Roja Formula 7's (Bronze)* Stromung*Powdercoated AA DSB* OMP strut bar*GC RSM's* M3 alum/leather knob*JTD underpanel *Traffic PRO (sold) *Black hella Ellipsoids w/celis rings * ACS Pedals*ACS handbrake*RE Octane SSK*Wheelskins Eurotones S/ Wheel Cover( tossed-replaced with new one)* Totally Covers Front seat velour covers with custom styling *Rieger roof spoiler-lost it on fwy Stock A/B*URI CP (ditched years ago)*540 HFM (sold) Stock HFM (BeckArnley)*FMS 24 lb inj*Alum rad and some other stuff*Konis w/adj rr's*Vogtland springs ** Passport 8500(sold)*Passpprt 7500 (sold V1-1.8 with POP) No detectors at all.
Coming...nada
BMWCCA-303681
1000 grit is a bit harsh imo , if the scratchs are that bad i use 1500 wet,2000,then 3000, and u should always use a soft foam sanding block for flat surfaces, if not u get what we call
finger f#$k marks, uneven sanding .
looks like u pulled it out though . prob is if u dont final with 3000 grit, u have to wheel your ass off alot more that = more chance to burn the paint ..
yeah well figure it took u 4 hrs, which is great for first time ..
most prof..
that hood would take me 45 min to a hr tops, depending on how many steps u did ..
1 sand
2 compound
3 polish
4 ultra polish
5 seal
darker colors are a bit more indepth
silvers,whites,and other really light colors hide alot so u can skip step4 and just seal it
Last edited by bimmerrob10; 04-11-2011 at 06:51 PM.
Remus sport cat back, cai, amber city lights
coilovers, spal fan, 15% tint, gold with polished lip bbs 42,s , interior revamp to come.
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