fuel pump bad?

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-18-2011, 06:32 PM

2000 Bmw 328ci manual

i started backing out and when i put the car in first to take off i started to go and it stalled. The car would turn over but not start after this happened. I did all the obvious things. the fuel pump is not priming and i have no fuel pressure at the rail. I have voltage on the Black and red stripped wire but i get nothing on the white blue although i was only reading about 10.5v. i checked the fuses and relays all were good. Could this be a cam sensor (i dont think it is)? I have not gotten a chance to check codes as this is my DD and its stranded at my buddies house. help me out guys please

**dworthy** · 03-18-2011, 08:16 PM

Do you have any engine lights on? - SES/Check engine? Do you have a code reader too?

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-18-2011, 08:29 PM

the check engine light is on if i leave the ignition in position 2 but keep in mind i cant start the car so a lot of other lights are lit up. I dont have a code checker but i do have EDIABAS semi working on my laptop but i didnt have it with me earlier when the car broke down. I may try and find a ride over there tonight to see if i can check it out. i dont have a bently manual yet as i just got this car two weeks ago and have already had to replace the entire cooling system (im completely broke now). This car is a lemon and im stuck with it now!

**dworthy** · 03-18-2011, 08:33 PM

No a lemon, just not taken care of is all. Fuel pumps can just go out of the blue, my last BMW E-28 has the orginal pump in there with over 300k miles so sometimes you get a bad one that gets burned out. Use the EDIABAS to help ID the problem, I am sure it will tell you if the pump is working or not. Check Amazon.com for a Bosch pump, or even IIRC Autozone sells them for cheap.

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-18-2011, 11:32 PM

Ok ran the error codes again i am very new to the program and am using it for the 2nd time.

**inskeep19** · 03-19-2011, 01:11 AM

I'm assuming when you tested the blue and white wire you had someone trying to start the car? You will get power out of the blue and white wire for a couple seconds then constantly if the car is trying to be started. I ran a wire straight from my battery to the pin on the pump and grounded the pump with a lead as well. As for the 10.5 volts, are you using an analog meter? Those aren't that accurate.

I think you would get fuel pressure if it was the cam sensor.

**2Bored330ci** · 03-19-2011, 03:38 AM

Can you hear the pump run when you attempt to start the car? With no pressure at the rail and having already checked the fuse and relay, you're probably looking at a new pump.

**Quasi635** · 03-19-2011, 04:06 AM

Originally Posted by 2Bored330ci

Can you hear the pump run when you attempt to start the car? With no pressure at the rail and having already checked the fuse and relay, you're probably looking at a new pump.

The SES light will always be on with the key in Position 2. The first code you get seems like it's just letting you know that the FP relay is active. Like 2Bored330ci said, if you don't hear your FP prime and you're sure your relay is good then your FP definitely is bad.

You didn't get a lemon. This happens with all used car purchases. I bought my E46 in January and had the clutch/flywheel go bad after 3 weeks. That's $1k only in parts! I bought the car with good service records but there are certain things that can go bad anytime.... It all depends on your luck.

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-19-2011, 10:39 AM

Originally Posted by Quasi635

The SES light will always be on with the key in Position 2. The first code you get seems like it's just letting you know that the FP relay is active. Like 2Bored330ci said, if you don't hear your FP prime and you're sure your relay is good then your FP definitely is bad.

You didn't get a lemon. This happens with all used car purchases. I bought my E46 in January and had the clutch/flywheel go bad after 3 weeks. That's $1k only in parts! I bought the car with good service records but there are certain things that can go bad anytime.... It all depends on your luck.

thats what i thought

Originally Posted by inskeep19

I'm assuming when you tested the blue and white wire you had someone trying to start the car? You will get power out of the blue and white wire for a couple seconds then constantly if the car is trying to be started. I ran a wire straight from my battery to the pin on the pump and grounded the pump with a lead as well. As for the 10.5 volts, are you using an analog meter? Those aren't that accurate.

I think you would get fuel pressure if it was the cam sensor.

no i didnt have anyone trying to start while i measured. i will do that today thanks for the reply. im using a digital meter.

Originally Posted by 2Bored330ci

Can you hear the pump run when you attempt to start the car? With no pressure at the rail and having already checked the fuse and relay, you're probably looking at a new pump.

sorry missed your comment before. no the fuel pump is not running ive removed the back seat and listened outside the car, its not priming.

no voltage on white blue wire. going to do the wire from the battery and ground the fuel pump. What else should i try?

well ran a ground and power wire fuel pump is good. I also tried to start the car while I had the fuel pump powered on and no go so does that mean the injectors aren't working too? could this be the ignition? please help if you have a suggestion

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-20-2011, 08:40 PM

Can someone please help me?!?! I get no voltage to the relay which according to the relay is spot number 85. i also get no voltage on the black with blue stripe wire that comes out of the ignition. I have a bentley manual on the way but i need to get this car running asap. Please someone tell me if the black with blue stripe wire is suppose to have voltage, if it is doesnt that mean the ignition is bad?

**inskeep19** · 03-21-2011, 12:45 AM

Sadly I'm away from my bentley manual but when I get it ill let you know.

It sounds like you have multiple problems if the car doesn't start even if you hook leads straight up to the pump.

Id prolly take a spark plug out ground it see if you got spark

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-21-2011, 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by inskeep19

Sadly I'm away from my bentley manual but when I get it ill let you know.

It sounds like you have multiple problems if the car doesn't start even if you hook leads straight up to the pump.

Id prolly take a spark plug out ground it see if you got spark

i sprayed some starting fluid in the intake after the maf and the car fired almost ran off the starting fluid for a second or two so i know im getting spark. ill be looking forward to your response thanks!

**inskeep19** · 03-21-2011, 11:04 AM

When's the last time the fuel filter was changed maybe its so clogged its starving the engine?

You did the horn relay swap?

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-21-2011, 11:17 AM

the PO told me he did the fuel filter about a month before i bought it. plus the fuel pump isnt even turning on so its not the filter. yes i did the horn relay swap. im not getting any voltage to the relay therefore its not kicking power over to the fuel pump. i need to know what is suppose to send voltage to the relay

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-21-2011, 05:18 PM

HUGE BREAK THROUGH!!!!!!!
the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder keeps blowing!! I got my car to start no problem then the fuse blew again. the box is located next to the DME under the hood. can someone shed some light on this?!?! I'm so close I appreciate all the help so far

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-21-2011, 05:33 PM

I have a short on the output side of the fuse. the red and white wire is the problem can someone tell me where this wire goes after the fuse? where could it be grounding out?

**bmwbob89** · 03-21-2011, 06:41 PM

Did this happen right after your cooling system repairs? If so start looking around and see if you pinched a wire somewhere. Sometimes we cause our own problems.

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-21-2011, 07:03 PM

well within a week ill take a look but i dont think they are related. i think the sunroof drain leak has something to do with it.

just took a look and i see no pinched or damaged wires. what ever the problem is it caused all of my error codes(posted above) because i had zero prior to this happening.

**dworthy** · 03-21-2011, 08:57 PM

Or perhaps in the back when you check the tank lines too?

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-21-2011, 09:09 PM

I completely inspected those wires too. I unplugged all the relays under the dash and it's still shorting out. I'm ripping my hair out guys this is my DD and I have no other transportation

**dworthy** · 03-21-2011, 09:29 PM

Had to pull out the book for this one. Here is what is controlled by that fuse:
A/C compressor clutch relay
Camshaft position sensors
Crankshaft positions sensor
DME main relay
Fuel pump relay
Leakage diagnosis pump
Mass air flow sensor
Secondary air injuction pump relay
Thermostat

So I would check those following relays to see with one is bad. This may not have anything to do with your fuel pump, just the fuse blowing is causing it not to kick on. Pull all relays, replace the fuse and start putting one by one back in. Turn the car to "2" and see if it blows.

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-21-2011, 09:45 PM

I have already pulled all the relays and tested each one with a 12 volt battery and measured output voltage. I also pulled all the relays under the dash then measured for a short and the wire is still shorting.

**dworthy** · 03-21-2011, 09:50 PM

Then you will have to unplug the sensors too. Not sure on how to unplug the thermostate, maybe it is the coolant gauge perhaps.

**kgriffin328ci** · 03-21-2011, 09:57 PM

there is a plug that plugs into the thermostat I'll go try and unplug that see if it fixes the short

dworthy I love you man no homo. I
unplugged that wire and bam no more short. so I'm extremely unhappy with ecstunning right now. all the shit there crappy ass thermostat gave me!! I will be calling them to rip some heads off!! I'm so happy at this point i got it fixed. thanks again dworthy!

**bmwbob89** · 03-22-2011, 12:01 AM

Not that it's your fault but when a new problem arises right after a repair it is usually related. What brand of thermostat did they send you? That does suck!! Glad you figured it out. Always tough when a new part fails.

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